rdsutton

WL mine starts the whine when the boost gets above 20psi. & it gets mod loud and very high pitched, in the range of "E". LOL

did the intake plenum gasket have a visable break in it? how loud was the whisle, & did it whine when with a steady throttle position? Thanks Dave.

Thanks, I'll be taken the exaust manifold off & will CK turo & bost out for bad boots.

[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FEFEF4]Back from my sibatical. Took a road trip to Montana with a 3 horse trailer. Truck in sig, stock turbo & injectors. The truck had not made a peep till mid trip. In Wy. on most of those I-25 grades the pull would start with 20-30 psi boost and 1000*-1100* EGT and 1-2 min into it, the turbo would start this high pitch whine. I would come off the fuel and stay close to 20 boost & this would decrease the whine a little? I also have a nice exaust manifold leak, tick.. Nothing like a good road trip to work out/ uncover all the gremlins.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

Try the kit from larry B's. It's a good one. Dave

I think the rebuild kit is for me.

Well, truck in sig. has an occational won't start moment. i.e. when I turn key to start it clicks once and quits. I repeat key turn a coulpe of times and it starts. I put 2 new 1000 cold cranking amp batteries in 2months ago with clean cable clamps. Volt meter reads 12.58 engine off and 13.67 to .75 at idle. on both batteries. I believe the starter is stock. Truck has 165k. Do I take the starter off to test OR new starter, starter cylinoid? Other options? Thanks Dave.

ISX, What works the best to tork the injector gear nut to the shaft on trucks with autos? What do you have out of the way/ off in order to gain the leverage needed to tork that nut to 140? What cleaner have you used in the past that does not leave any resadue? Thans dave.

ISX, & all who are interested in p-pump timing, check this clip out for insight into spill port timing method. I appreciate the inside the engine visual @ #8 full stroke. Brotherhood Sleeve Valve Engine, timing the fuel ...

Yes Yes I'll look at all of them. If you post them here. Give'em a little more picksel so I can zoom in on'em. Let me tell ya I installed the stud kit for the LP, made my life a whole lot better. I did go back and put a 90 elbow on the pre heater, fuel filter fits better. Realy fought that one too. I also put some heat shield on the return Ln next to the block. Hope this keeps it from the elements longer.. Appreciate the feed back dodgethis91, Thanks Dave

Dodgethis, looks good. I just replaced my lines, went with 1/2" supply and 3/8 return, mounted them inside to rail. I cut and bent the ends of the old steel Lns. Left old Stl Ln on rail beside tank and zip tied new Lns. under cab on the rail where I cut old Ln I used rubber coated tubing holders 2ea on all 3 or 4 OEM mounting bolts on inside rail and into engine Say that Lp fitting 90 elbow, I put a straight 3/8 npt with male barb and ran 1/2 Ln in place of old ln to use bracketts. Thanks for the pics of the module and DS. I do mine today.. Dave

We had a torpedo heater and brother must have taken it so now I have to light the wood stove. I didn't feel like putting shoes on lol.

ISX thank you for the video. I know this will help alot of folks. Evaluating the LP take off and taking the preheater out, I found a split priner boot. Truck has 165K I think I'll replace it. Have you installed aftermarket units or stayed with carter brand? Where to buy?On finding BTDC discussion, since I have to do KDP can I align timming marks on timming gear and cam gear then put harmonic balancer on and mark it??? (See the smoke again) Your shop heated, and are slippers optional? I have to lite the blower and suck fuems. At least I'm inside...

It sounds like you are intimidated by taking the lift pump off. I will make a video of putting it back on (since I took it off last night) to help you. Getting it off is a lot easier than putting it back on, but its mainly just this one bolt on the lift pump that can ruin your life. It is a 30-60 min job.

Hi ISX, I was ready to do pretty much the same supply Ln mod.. But I chased my tail here in Chattanooga Tn trying to find an old LP or a new one to get those fittings. I REALy did'nt want to take mine off unless absolutly had to. Should have aksed first.. I first wanted to put the 1/2 ln directly to the LP 90 elbow. (this will accomidate a 1/2 Ln well with a clamp, and leave the pre Heat alone. Changed mind like prefilter, not the preheat element. Now that new supply and return Lns run, AND the bed is still off, reconsidering. Your feed back on this. 1st I have a Vulcan draw straw for my 98 3500 with 1/2 and 3/8 push ports. and the 1/2 rubber Ln not installed yet. My idea was to upgrade larger Ln now and later to a electric LP. 2nd to relieve fuel supply ln of restriction at OEM sending unit and near engine quick conn steel Ln that rus to LP pre Htr. I'm thinking(see the smoke) just run 1/2 Ln from NEW draw straw in sending unit to LP pre filter on a 3/8 npt/ push barb or some similar fitting. To do this I DO have to take LP off. Aside from enlarging the finder cut out is there a better way to get to the LP? what do think of all this jabber?? thank you for the pics and consulting, Dave

I have to log some miles in May (10-25) from TN. to MT. My last one graduates college and HAS a job lined up. Man could you ask for anything more. I'll be taken a horse out and would like to haul something back in that 3 horse trailer. If anyone knows of someone in need of this service feel free to PM or call me 423.596.1963. Thanks in advance Dave.

I just finished a 4" MBRP turbo back SS with muffler on a 98 12V CC 4X. It took 1hr. from usafreedomdiesels.com for $375.00 shipped. Cheepiest I could find SS anywhere. Pyro is the biggest reduced tep. change at WTO.

I'd like to ask the form if increasing the fuel supply line to 5/8's from tank pickup to L.P. to I.P., would reduce the starving fuel problem at higher RPM's? Would you replace the return Ln? has anyone done this? I know it won't cure it like a air dog sys. And what is available after market to rebuild/ replace tank pick up to 5/8's, and not drilling new holes in tank? I have liked the research done on this from torktek.com. Thans for lookin at it..

Mopar1973man, 1st I do respect your time and you replys on this matter. My "carrying a spare around" comment, well most of what I read about late 2nd gen are fuel related and come from reading trouble shootin articals/replys in publications and forms. I'll try to read more positive articals. May be I'm crosseyed and leary about the whole fuel issue. Like you I am out 75 to 200 miles from my garage, and when when i'm in south east CO on the ranch 75 to 200 mi from any service.. I like to think I have a good level of comfort in the rig I drive. As you pointed out in your secret, know the fuel systems limits and keep it healthy and happy.. Respectfuly I know all CTD's will have sweet and sour spots. I just want more sweet ones. Thank you Dave.. BTY Mntom refered me to this well informed forum. I'm glad he did and I hope not to have offended anyone. Dave

Ok, first my thoughts on why the convertion; The convertion I bevieve would cover injectors, injector pump, injector lines, cam and timing gears and cover, gaskets, tank to pump fuel lines, and a aftermarket lift pump, and some mics. parts. Now why; PM cost, P7100 and mechanical lift pump-rock solid reliability, You don't have to carry a spare, fuel delivery and return, and last the 12v fuel system over all IMO easy to work on with the exception of stock fuel filter. Now after recieving some feedback, first the 98.5's do not have the access on side of block for a mechanical lift pumpt, the task will reap little gain in comparison to the cost..A correct and complete covertion parts only near $4K.. If I do pick up a 98.5 I'll hopefuly pick up a well maintained one, and add a aftermarket lift pump and fuel guage.. Thanks for input and interist.

Would like to ask if anyone on this form has any experience converting a 24V to a 12V. to include: injectors, injector pump, lift pump/heater, and fuel delivery from tank to engine?? Estimated COST, Shop Vs DIY?? Any and all input will be greatly appreciated.. Oh Yes, I'm a newbe to this form, and I have read ALOT of well written post in here on 2nd gen and 3rd gen tecnical topics. I'm currently loking at a 98 5spd CC 4X with 132K, I have'nt ruled out the evil 53 block yet on it, but the rest of it looooks way sweet and matches the miles.. Thanks again to all who read and post.