rdsutton

Wild&free can U post a pic of the lights on your truck? Did you run them off a relay set up?

Diesel4life where did U get the Replacement bumper? Looks Sweet..

Yes, but only when under a load. the trans will not ossilate between 3 & 4 with no load... So I need to make sure TV cable is adjusted correctly, how about the throttle pressure/position and solenoids ?? Thanks for the help, been OT for a few weeks, will monitor thread daily now.

Right I just read that on Ur turbo post. Thanks..

Rick I've just did my break in service @ 5k on my HD rebuild & upgraded to the 48re. I have a Q for you. I've noticed before this service & now after that the tranny when pulling a load with OD off will up shift, down shift to 3rd & 4th around the 2 to 2.4k rpm range. To avoid this I put a little more fuel to it, increase RPMs, it down shift till it hits 2.5k rpm, then up shifts to 4th. I don't thing it should be doing this. Your thoughts please.

Rick I hope U got one. I just checked site, now there @ $800 clams.. I wished I'd seen Ur post earlier today...

Thanh you very much CT. It is 15 amp!!! - - - Updated - - - Update... I stand corrected its a 10A fuse. I figured out what happened to all at once LIGHTS out! I pulled a stock trailer a few days ago and have since found that plug had a few corroded TOUCHING wires in the housing. That will ruin any bodies day/ night LOL..

Ok electrical is not my speciality, I have running and headlights. My back ups are out too. This phenomenon happined 2 months ago, lasted a day or so. I fiddled with the tilt on steering wheel and rached under dash and wiggled some wires went away. This time did the same thing, NO change! Now When I have a 6 pin trailer hooked up, I can accuate the break control and I have trailer Breaks and break lights on truck & trailer. HMMMM sound familer to anyone, hay Rogan chime in anytime... I know some of the culprits might be, fuses, flasher/ Turn Sig relay, Multifunctional switch, Emerg flasher switch... what do I add to the list to Ck this Wknd???? - - - Updated - - - Update.... Found blown fuses for break and turn signal lights. Tried swapping out transmission relays to fix backup lights... No backup lights. Any clues??? I looked for a fuse for them.. No find

98 I thought you picked up a wire harness frm Daniel Stern? If not I just put my lights and harness in, all is good and I CAN SEE @ night... Mr sterns harness are built HD plug and play, easy install. Had mine sent assembled, cost a little more.

PS pump mod this Wk when I get the truck back from Tranny shop. I fried the 47RE last week comming back from MS. took out the tork converter, cluches on 3&4 and fried the OD one way roller bearing strag. Oh spun bearing in rear drum.I know you would app. this with all the tranny trouble youve had. My rebuild should hold 1000lb/torq & 600/Hp. cant wait to spin the dullys.

Rogan I've been following the thread and you've had a lot of good help, so here's what I have, A LOUD cyclic banging noise coming from the tranny. History, 47re rebuilt @ 120k with upgrade to a tow hall pkg. Truck has 190k. Trans fluid flushed every 30K. The noise just started, came off a 12hr pull, and noticed @ a stop the loud noise coming up through the floor board. Really bad @ idle but goes away @ higher RPMs???? Thx Dave

387, I upgraded to Redhead Bx and a napa steer pump. NOW if you want the gear Bx of your choice to preform even better, go to this site, redneck ram, then to tech section, upgrade steering. Gives a nice LITE touch to that new steering Bx. So far over a year out on box, pump with mod and all well. I went ahead and rebuilt the vac pump since it came off with the pump. Hope this helps Dave

I believe it's under break booster on inner fender well!!

Dennhop I Did all the steering, stabilizer brace & track bar, then HD tie rod &drag link kit, then Redhead box & rebuilt vac pump. If you feel lucky you can take the PS pump back off without dinger the seal up & pull the valve on outlet Ln & put a slot in the key of valve. Will give you increased psi for one finger turning power!!! Now the fun part I knew my 1998 3500 4x4 outer stub shaft king nuts were frozen on, so took it to Axel shop with 02 stubs & bearings!!!! It WILL NOT WORK, the 02 hub bearing will pull the stub shaft in to deep, U joints hit back of knuckle!! So I went from a $1800 job to a $3400 for a u conn kit lock out hubs.. O I did get new ball Js out of them. All said I have a front end that will out last me I hope. On the hub bearing, stub shaft, SAVE your self lots Of $$$$, go with a 98 ford dana 60 front knuckle assembly. This will give you lock out & serviceable bearings.. Best of luck to your next upgrade, Dave

CSM I see in your sig you have a hybred hx35/40. did you have it mapped? Im looking into a new turbo for my 98 12V, just curious about the preformance and limitations on boost, spool, ect. Thanks Dave. BTW I second the steel replacement front bumper, I have an outlaw classic <250lb> ordered this month.

I have a 4"MBRP turbo back, w flow through pipe. After a few day trips I had to quite things down. 1st I put dinamap sound proofing pad inside from cab back wall under back window( nothing but that tin resonating with ex noise), under back and front seats, and put interior carpet with new pad over that. Helped some but still drones me out of the cab, found a Donaldson 4" muffler, installed it, now you can talk to someone inside with the windows up @ 60MPH, and hear the radio @ a low volume. I still have the FLOW THROUGH PIPE if anybody is interested. Price on EX system is good, I hope you have it installed & pics when this is posted. Regards Dave.

Daylight driving lights ( DRL) found on all canada trucks post 1980 something. The High beam has 6V when truck is running, lights off.

just did mine, put 2 8oz combo coolant/oil, 2oz oil rest refrigerant and 20oz of 143. cool as a cuqk. blows out 55 deg. air..

98 and dieselforlife did ya have DRL's? if so how did ya delete them? thx Dave

Denhop, nice bed, what hub conversion did ya do? Cost? Lookem @ Yukon hub kit for my 98 12V, $2100.00, a little steep. Thanks Dave

Anybody know what dieselrams problem is? Been tryin the sight no success!

Diesel4 if your interested the ford conversion, need ford dana 60 frm f350 DRW yrs 92 to 97 maybe 98. Yes frm knuckle out. Tie rod ends may seat to deep if worn so a washer on tie rod ball joint will do. Thx for the input, Dave.PS the salvage yard, crags L., And google all took 3 Days to locate one close, 2hrs drive...

FWIW, this will NOT work for the following, 1st, the 02 bearing and flange has a narrower profile. 2nd, rotor will not set centered in caliper because of the bear profile. 3rd, I found all this out by trial assembly, when stub axle, hub bearing attached to inner axle and attached to 98 knuckle and you start to tighten axle nut, it all binds, will not turn. The 02 axle and bearing draw the u joint to deep into the knuckle. I had to see for myself, and waste a day of my precious time!! I hope this saves some one else some time, thanks Dave

Has anyone here swapped out stub/outer axles on a 98 and put in 2000/2002 axles and bearings? I have looked at and measured both axles and bearings, 02 axle just a bit shorter, inner bearing the same, 02 has the studs in the bearing flange. Both use the same u joint and mount to the knuckle on the 4 bolt holes. My goal is to have the free float rotor with the newer set up. Please include any pics and if you had to modify anything to make it work. Thanks Dave.