dennhop

That's exactly what was happening. I ran out at lunch really quick and cranked the smoke screw I. a few turns really quick. Problem solved. I'll have to go back in a fine tune it again later, to see where it should be sitting at, but between your explanation and another friend explaining how it all tied together, I'm starting to get it figured out.

Fuel screw im talking about is what most people call the smoke screw..

What I mean by that is I set the fuel screw depth so that at rest, the screw just barely pushed the AFC foot forward....basically so that it was just making contact with the foot when the foot is all the way back. As far as setting the foot to 65psi, my understanding of tuning the foot is that st max boost, the foot should be full forward...maybe I got it wrong, but I set the tension on the star wheel so that at 65 lbs of pressure, the foot would be fully forward. I tightened up the spring so at 65 lbs of boost the foot didn't slide all the way forward, and then loosened it up a little at a time, checking the forward travel of the foot until I felt it had slid as far forward as it could at 65 lbs of boost.

So I finally got around to retuning my AFC yesterday, for the new turbos. I took the AFC off, checked the fuel plate (which is a 100, btw), and started tuning. The plate was already full forward, so I left it there-I figure with it being a 160 pump, it can use all the help I can give it. I set my air compressor to roughly 65 psi, which is what I know my max boost has been, and used my blowgun to pressurize the AFC. I then took it a slight step further than normal, and used a set of calipers to find at what point I had the most travel on the rack. Once I had the AFC starwheel adjusted for max travel, I then took the fuel screw, and backed it out to where it was just barely touching the back of the foot at rest. Once I did all of that, I went ahead and put it all back together. I also did an oil change at the same time. I love that quick release drain valve on the pan-so much faster! Put everything back together, and started it up. It had a hard start, almost like it wasn't getting any fuel, and I hopped out, started looking at a few things, and realized that I had forgotten to hook up the boost reference line. Got that tightened up, and tried again. After a few more unsuccessful tries, I went ahead and checked the fuel at the injectors, bleeding 1, 2, and 3. This morning I went to start it up, and it didn't want to start. I finally got it running, with copious amounts of accelerator, and started driving. Fuel pressure is around 30 psi, so I know I've got fuel to the pump, but for the first few minutes, if I let the rpms drop to idle (ie shifting, or just sitting) without giving it gas, the truck would die. Once it warmed up, it seemed fine. The truck runs a bit better; my boost hits 50 psi and I'm only hitting 1500 on the pyro, as opposed to hitting 1600 by 30 psi before, and now it's a light haze at full throttle, as opposed to dumping clouds of smoke out. It seems to me like a fueling issue. The only thing I can think of is that I've got a posi lock cable for my fuel shutoff, and it's attached to the mounting bracket that sits over the bottom two AFC mounting screws. If that got tweaked, just enough to put tension on the cable, could that not be allowing the fuel shutoff not to come up far enough? I think it would seem a little off, and I shouldn't be able to hit 50 psi if that was the case. Pulling the AFC off, I can't see anything that would mess with the fuel, other than that, and it seems to me to be a fuel problem.

Edit: I'm retarded, and can't read...Might want to consider axle wrap as an issue, depending on what you have done, or don't have done...I know it's what was causing my shudder in my 96...traction bars helped significantly, since I've put them on, keeping the axle in place...that's probably going to do far more than just a driveshaft. Edit 2: I'm still retarded and can't read...you did already mention the carrier bearing...As far as the one piece driveshaft, I've looked into that, as I recently had to replace one custom driveshaft for another...I had an aluminum 4 in driveshaft, that held up great-until my axle wrap took out my ujoints and slung the driveshaft under my rear duals...it's not good anymore. I had a new one made, custom steel 4 in one piece driveshaft, for $650, shipped to my house. That's about the going rate for a one piece. I've got a 2nd gen, QC LB dually, so it's a full custom. If you do go with replacing the carrier bearing and staying with a 2 piece, I would recommend getting or building a set of traction bars, which IMO would help with keeping the carrier bearing alive longer. They would minimize the axle wrap under acceleration, or heavy torque pulls, which would keep the bearing from taking the full brunt of an off angle rotation. I had horrible axle wrap with my 96, especially under load-for me, it happened while around 60-65 mph, but it was so bad I would have to back out of the throttle, and run down to 55 or so, as it felt the truck was going to rattle itself apart. Since the traction bars, that same rattle has dropped down to a minor shudder, that I can deal with now. I'm sure that would help keep your carrier bearing alive longer

Might also try to pour the 2 stroke in first, and then add the fuel on top of it...it's what I typically do when I'm adding it to my Jeep or my truck. That way, the cavitation of the fuel hitting the existing fluids in the tank will mix the oil into the diesel. At least, that's the theory behind it...

Got it. That's what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure. I'll try and get to that over the next couple of days, if time permits...Been working like a dog lately, and when I get home, typically eat dinner and go to sleep anymore!

OK, so just to make sure I'm reading this right, I run the high/low pressure in series with the energizing circuit for the AC-ie pin 86 on the relay, so that it acts as an automatic cutoff for the AC if the pressure/temps get too high/low, and leave everything else alone...As far as there being too much refrigerant, I was pretty careful when I filled it last summer, and the only time I have issues is when it's just warm enough to want AC, but not super hot...the warmer it is outside, the less times I have to shut if off manually to unfreeze the lines...

So off the hot lead, run into the low pressure, then from there run into the high pressure and back into the hot lead? Or does it matter which switch I need to run to first?

So, for those that don't know, my truck is a hodgepodge of wiring, parts, and different model years-which while it runs, it does cause some issues. One of them that I've temporarily found a workaround for, is the AC. Getting it to run through the PCM and actual harness is out of the question-I have no clue how everything was spliced together, and i don't have the time or extra vehicle to use to tear the wiring apart and trace everything down right now. I have been able to get the compressor to activate, by running a relay off the battery, to a toggle switch inside the cab-but, if it's not retarded hot outside, I do have to shut it off periodically, as the lines will freeze up, and it will stop blowing cold air. I'm guessing this is because I don't have the low pressure switch and the high pressure switch in the system, but is there a way to get those to activate, while running power directly off of the battery? I'm not entirely sure how those two exactly work, to see if its even possible to do. Any ideas?

Between Wilmington NC and Jacksonville, in Sneads Ferry, NC

I may be going a different route on the winch....still planning on mounting it to the truck, but looking at it differently. I don't wheel the truck except for hunting and whatnot, but its no really wheeling...just driving down some hunting trails. Reason I got it was because for some reason I seem to be the first person my buddies call when they get stuck. However, because of the fiasco with the bed liner, I'm looking at either buying or building a flatbed for it, so if I do, I'll mount the winch on the flatbed in the back of the truck. - - - Updated - - - The tires are 35 on 17. My plan was to use the receiver built into the front bumper and reinforce the mounting plates with a set of road armor mounting brackets...if I go the flatbed route though, I'll mount the winch in back.

I had bare metal because there was a lot of rough spots on the paint and the bad part was that it was a crappy paint job, so it was peeling in spots, and had started to rust. In order to cut the rust before I coated over it I took it down the the bare metal in spots. If the paint job had been better, I could have just scuffed it, but that wasn't happening- Thanks Earl Scheibs.. I dont think they even prepped the old paint before they sprayed a new coat on....

Hmmmm...might be worth a try...it takes 24 hours to cure, and 72 to fully harden, so hoping that failing to mix the b compound (which I don't know what that is to begin with) I'm hoping it cures at all.... good thing is it is already getting tacky and harder, so hopefully it will hold up OK.I would have loved to walk away, unfortunately, with the bare metal exposed, and with the 10-20 minute cure time, I didn't have the luxury...oh well. Live and learn...an expensive mistake though!

I have probably 3/4 of everything sprayed right now, and it's setting...once in, there's no taking it out. What I'm hoping to be able to do do is when the last kit comes in, add the crumb to that kit, and then try and cover up as much of the mess ups as possible, as well as finish spraying everything in. I guess we'll see how it turns out when it's all said and done.

So, I finally had time to spray in the Al's DIY bedliner kit today...prepped the bed, had everything taped and masked off. It was nice and warm out, no wind, sunny, everything was good-until I started mixing the first batch up. I got it mixed up, and realized I had forgotten to put an airline fitting on the spray gun....So, I'm running around the garage, trying to find a fitting, before the batch had a chance to set. I didn't end up having to worry about that. In my rush to get the fitting on, and get the material in the gun and sprayed, I didn't realize I had failed to mix the B bottle into the batch... Until I had started spraying it. It was coming out like crap, and sprayed out in a matter of seconds...gone. One entire kit, wasted. I jumped out of the bed, stomped into the garage, trying to figure out what the hell just happened, when as I was pulling the stuff out to mix the second batch, I realized, oh, hey, I've got two bottles of the B mix left...FML. That's when I realized I'd forgotten to mix it into the first batch. So, I have no idea how it's going to work. I had my mask on both times, so I mixed up the second batch, and made sure everything was good. Unfortunately, this time, the wind decided to start, and I'm outside spraying in about a 15-20 mph cross wind. The crap was blowing so bad, that I couldn't see a thing, it was burning my eyes, so as I shut them to try to blink some of the crap out, I tipped the spray gun and dumped a bunch of it out in the bed...$%#$#@$@##@$!!!!!!! That batch mixed and sprayed ok, but I had planned on spraying the crumb into it (which I didn't), so I ran out before I got the entire bed done...Wasted one whole kit because I forgot the mix the B into it, and the second one looks like crap now, because of the wind and because I couldn't see a thing, due to the chemicals in my eyes. SHould have just paid someone 600 to do it professionally, but so much for that. I've got one more kit coming, and I'll finish the truck off with that, and hopefully get the crumb added for texture....we'll see if it even holds, or if the liner's screwed. Not really happy with how it turned out, but it's no fault of Al's...if it hadn't been for everything going wrong at once, it would have been one hell of a kit. One note though, I would definitely recommend using 2 kits for a long bed, due to the fact that even spraying correctly, one kit won't do over the rails and the entire tailgate.

Shoot, sorry, missed the post...I keep forgetting to adjust the notifications! Yes, they did come with the reinforcement bracket for the inside of the door panel.

I'm thinking the 62/65/12 is going to spool fast, but you're going to be running it hard and hot, especially with a 12v. I ran a 71/74/14 on a 24V VP44 truck, with big injectors, and programmers, and while it took a bit of time to spool, I think that it would be a bit faster spool on a 12V. The EGT's were manageable daily driving, but like I said, on the 24V it was a bit laggy. There's enough differences between the 12 and 24V that I would imagine something like that would be more what you would be happy with.

Two things-1. You can always just swap a 12v into there...just saying! :tongue:2. Not sure off the top of my head, as it's been a while since I owned a CommonRail, but one thing you might consider doing with the motor out, is if the 3rd gens had the engine mount underneath the motor, running from frame rail to frame rail, cutting the mount out, and modifying it so you can bolt and unbolt it with the engine still in...I've seen it done a couple of times, where they cut it out, welded plates to both the bar and the frame, and then used 8 or so grade 8 bolts to hold it all together. That way they can pull the bar out, and get to the oil pan and bottom of the motor, without having to pull the entire motor up and out.

Depending on where in Indiana you're at, and what you may need done or whatnot, hit me up...I've still got a ton of contacts in Indiana around the Indianapolis area, from when I was stationed there!

Just sent a pm to one of their guys I've dealt with in the past, who works directly out of their Shelbyville, IN plant-he's over on CF, and has always treated me good, and been strait up with me...hopefully he sees the post and will contact you to see if he can get this worked out to everyone's satisfaction.

The traction bars were from Cummins Performance Parts, I got them on sale, for $465 shipped, at the time

I had posted up my experiences over on ITD, but there are a dozen issues with the liberty off hand. (I still own it too...) While it does get decent economy, for a small turbo diesel engine with a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a refrigerator, the design of the motor leaves much too be desired. The factory designed the crankcase vent to go directly back into the intake tube, which in turns coats the turbo, and leaves an oily film on the inside of the CAC hoses and intercooler. This film rots out the stock hoses, causing boost leaks. I've upgraded mine, at the tune of $200 some dollars for two hoses. Following the same issue, that oil then enters the intake horn, which meets up with then soot off the egr. This then fills the intake horn up. About a 4 square inch diameter horn, and when I pulled mine off, I had about a 1 inch circle in the middle of it that was clear...the rest was completely plugged by an oily soot mess. Took me an hour of scraping to clean it mostly out, and couldn't hardly get any of the soot that was in the intake manifold, so I know theres still stuff in there. The timing belt HAS to be done every 100k miles, else you run then risk of throwing the belt, taking out then dual cams and everything else involved. This is not a cheap job. iIRC, all the parts alone ran me about 600, as you need to replace not only the belt, but the pulleys, tensioner, and may as well do the water pump while you're in there....you have to literally pull the entire front end apart to get to everything. This job also requires special tools to do, so I spent at least another $400 in tools. I could have rented them far cheaper, but if I have to do this again, they'll pay for themselves. Got the timing belt done, and then ran into fuel delivery issues...I already had the "upgraded" 2nd gen fuel filter head, but it was still leaking air. I replaced the factory fuel lines coming off the tank (designed for a gas vehicle, so not airtight) and that still didn't help. Then only thing I was able to do to fix my issue was to add an airtex pump off the tank, to push a steady stream of fuel to the filter head, to mechanically force purge the air from the lines. Despite this, I still have an issue with trying to do a hot start....if I shut it off, I have to wait at least 5 minutes before I can even attempt to start it again...it will not run at all otherwise. I rerouted the CCV hose with a mod, venting to the atmosphere, instead of banking up my intake, but found another side effect of that...you have to check the oil constantly...in the ,matter of two months, I had burned off all the oil in the jeep, destroying my turbo...$1200 later, I had a new one. Several design flaws are that the turbo drain line feeds the crankcase with oil...so I may or may not have caused any damage to the crank, but so far so good. Also, due to the fact that VM had designed an ecu running ISO 9141 (IIRC), and Chrysler had developed their PCM running the same, in order to make the vehicle run at all, they designed the system to shut off one of the computers after the engine started running. I don't know which one, but what this does is cancel any possibility of getting any OBDII scanner or engine monitoring tool to work while driving...ie, scan gauge, edge, bully dog, as after about 20 minutes, there will be no signals to read, and the monitor will think the engine is off. I was able to force the scangauge to pull codes, which was a relief...it wasn't a complete waste of $100, as my other scanner, and none of the auto zone scanners will work on the CRD. The rockers are a known weak spot on the motor, usually recommended to replace every 100k...but I don't have the money to do it...about $1200-1600 for a complete set. In order to keep the egr from plugging up my system, right now I've got the MAF unplugged, which deactivates the egr- and also throws a cel. Don't care about the cel, and there is a company that designed an aftermarket fix for it, its just expensive...about $800 or so. The thermostat on these is just about guaranteed to be broken when you get the,. And instead of a standard, replace the thermostat, its an entire sealed assembly on the side of the motor. I don't remember how much it costs, but you have to take the entire front end apart to remove it. What most do, and what I did, was use a Standt inline tstat to replace my factory broken one...$12 shipped. I'm sure I missed a few things, but I'm trying to fight my tablet as far as typing goes....grr!

Check out this site...it might make it a bit more palatable. Plus, even though they say they don't come with the brackets, every time I've ordered from them, the kits DO come with the mounting bracket plate... http://www.wheelskin.com/koolvue.php?side=Driver Side&make_name=Dodge&model_name=Ram 2500&year=2001

Ok, so for the past couple of months now, I've been driving intermittently, with a howling sound, accompanied by an occasional clunking, driving at speeds over 40, 45 mph. Straight line driving, turning didn't seem to make a difference. I've got the EMS offroad kit on the front of my 96 3500, with Warn manual lockouts, and I suspected the bearings. here is the sequence of events of what I replaced.1. Inner and outer wheel bearings and races. Stubshaft Ujoint (no difference)2. Spindle bearing and seals. (no difference)3. Inner and outer wheel bearings and races (again) (no difference)4. Spindle bearing and seals. (no difference)Now, after all of this, and playing with the hub, the tire, and everything else I could think of, I was driving back after about a 2 hour drive, and as I started getting close to home, I noticed that along with the noise, it started binding on me as I was trying to turn to the right. This verified that I'd been in the right place, just what was it now?The next day, I lifted the front of the truck, and placed it on jackstands, so both tires were off the ground. Spinning the tire, no noise. Grabbed it top to bottom, and tried to shake it, no play whatsoever. So the bearings were good. Turned the wheel to the right, and spun tire, nothing. Engaged the hubs, and watched the stubshaft turn, it spun. However, when I tried to spin the stubshaft by hand, it seemed to be binding up more so than the passenger side. After some research, I noticed that it seems to be a common issue after installing new ujoints, that they don't flex properly, until you hit the ears with a hammer. I've never had an issue with a Ujoint binding on me before after replacement, so I never thought to do that. I went ahead, pulled the whole thing apart, slid the ujoint out, and sure enough, it was stiff in one direction-even after letting it go, it wouldn't drop on its own. So I went ahead and hit it with a hammer, on the ears of the yoke, until it loosened up and was free in all directions. Then I put it back in. I torqued the inner locknut down to 50 ft lbs, backed it off 90 degrees, and retightened to 15 ft lbs. (Now here's where I can't tell you exactly what seems to have fixed it...)Before, when I was trying to line up the little tab with the slip ring, I was turning the locknut clockwise-ie tightening it. It was only a matter of less than a 1/4 of an inch, so I didn't think anything of it, but this time, I decided to go the other way, when I was lining up the tab with the notch. Once I got the inner locknut tightened, and then the slipring on, I went ahead and installed the outer locknut. Before, I was trying to do it right, with the torque wrench, which called for 150-180 ft lbs of torque, however, I couldn't keep the socket on the nut doing that...it kept twisting and popping off. This time, I went ahead and hit it with the impact, which allowed me to keep it on the nut, and apply more than 115 ft lbs of torque. Everything else back together, and test drive. I took it up to 70 mph, without any extra noises, rubbing, whatnot. So, hopefully that fixed the issue! Long post, but I felt someone else out there, like me, might just need to know some of what I learned over the course of this 2 month long fiasco!