hex0rz

I could be about just as useful as t!ts on a boar hog when I say this, but what the hey...Maybe the only thing I could offer is that my father in law has hearing aids and got them for about 500 a piece. I dunno where, but it was an out of pocket expense. His hearing aids he had before lasted quit a while. So an annual expense is not to be expected.I guess you get what you pay for? They seem to be pretty good these days with all the advances in technology.

Question is, whats it compare to a new one? I'm sure you don't have that kind of money to just tear apart a new filter though...

5 is the first level, or power. 3 is sub-level. Sub-level is your low boost fueling.

HEY! DO NOT ever expect to hear from any of us to tell you to use the search function. There are no stupid questions! Also, I have had just a regular connector on my VP44 and no stealth plate. No special precautions taken either. Have had it tapped like since I've owned the truck. It was tapped before I got it. A year or so after owning the truck got rid of my comp and still had no problems. Now I've got another comp again on the same tap, still no problems. Not saying the stealth plate is overkill, but the connector still has not done me wrong! It may down the road some day, but until that time happens, I'm not buying a stealth plate. Also, I have not noticed much of a power increase at low speeds. I've got it on 1x1 right now to keep the smoke down. Any other setting, I atleast get a haze. But then again, I've also got 75hp injectors too. If you put it on 5x5 and atleast get into 3rd gear lockup, and accel hard, you should smoke hard. If I hit it hard on 5x5 taking off from a stop I will smoke the block out!

Riiiiight... I have ALOT of room to improve then! 10mpg towing my 5th TH and recently 12-13mpg. I was getting 16-18mpg. Dunno what happened.

Actually, the secret to it all is the expansion tube. The white pvc pipe. From what I understand the source of water has to be below the pump, but after that it can pump uphill for several hundred feet. IMO, it sounds like if you can build up more stored kinetic energy to and build water pressure the better it probably will work. But anywho, the way I understand it to work is the water flows through the pipe from the source. Once it reaches the pump, water fills into the expansion tube. The pipe has to be sealed, because the air in it is then compressed by the water as it fills. When the air and water pressure equals an equilibrium, the air pushes back down and forces it out and pumps it. The check valves are needed to keep the water flowing one way and allow pressure relief. Everytime the water flows out of that check valve, water is flowing to the outlet side. Once the pressure becomes different again, the water flows through the check valve near the expansion tube and the check valve near the inlet side closes. Process repeats... Did that make sense? I understand that the water source is virtually unlimited and is not harnessed 100%, but it seems there should be a way to use or recycle the water that flows from the check valve. Also, the idea of an overunity device. I would like to entertain the idea: If you had a storage tank, water flows into this and fills it up, but you have to pump it from there to another location. The flow from the source is not enough to sustain a person regular water usage. Hence why you have a resevoir. What if you stuck this pump below the resevoir and used the stored energy in the tank, ran the pump with that water, but then the check valve nearest the inlet drains back into the resevoir? You could have a valve on the outlet line and use the water when needed but not be wasting any to use the pump. hmm.. I know, laws of physics say over unity is impossible...

just in case you still don't figure it out, there is a wire that leads to the VP44 under the TPS. You would need to remove the 3 bolts to get any access to the wire. It may also help to remove the intake bolts as well to gain more access. I do not remember the color wire, but it should be the only wire. Ground can go either to a bolt for the TPS or to battery negative. Most will recommend battery negative...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

The connection from the rv is towards the rear of the trailer. I really hoped it would be more towards the middle. So in order to reach the connection, I bought 2 25 ft. hoses. If my connection shortens up, I would have only had one 25 ft. hose instead. So it depends on the distance. Maybe the whole idea of routing a permanent pex line is overkill? I was really hoping the pipe insulation would be thicker than 3/8's... So I plan on doing pipe insulation then wrapping it as well. Thanks for the link Mike. Took a look and read the article.. Not too much more I have not read already, though. I guess someday if I ever get to build my own place, I will be set up to do my plumbing!

That is just ridiculous that there is no way to bleed the system! Even my old mazda truck was bleedable! Brake fluid has got to be changed every so often. Its stupid to think that the engineers at Dodge at the time could not come up with a better idea than that...

...well its still a nifty idea!

Brilliant!

Crap! Yea, that needs to be changed, too! Service intervals may not be as much as the brakes, but going 185k on the same fluid is a long time! Fluid breaks down over time and could very well be your problem. I suggest you change it out first before doing anything else. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so you could have quit a bit of water in the fluid. I think service intervals for the clutch system are probably going to be sooner than brakes. I would think the fluid would see more "use" than the brakes cause you have to use the clutch everytime you shift..

Wait, it has its own engine? I was kinda confused how the system works. I've seen it before but its been a while since then. I've been thinking about skirting alot, but I also want it to look clean. Theres not alot out there to do the job. Atleast I did not find anything.. The hay idea has crossed my mind before. If I were anywhere else besides an RV park, I would be doing it. But the rules are strict here. Being in construction, the materials are not really a problem for me. Its the rules of the park and the weight and space consumption of the materials that are the problem. If I had mone to spend I woulda had a ton of different businesses by now, haha! So many different products that I have thought of that I felt would have made a difference... NO brown for me! So I spent probably a couple hours at Lowes this evening thinking and pricing things out. I have to a conclusion that for the most part, PEX is the winner. I suppose I ought to propose my plan first. My plan first off is to eliminate the drinking safe garden hoses to cut down the length of travel my water has to make to the trailer. It would be a bear for me to have to insulate and heat tape all the hose I have currently. So when I was at the hardware store, I looked at a couple different options to go with this idea. I did not realize it until recently, but there is a Lowes here! I'm not a big fan of Home Depot... I talked to a pretty knowledgeable LADY about plumbing! I was considering copper piping initially, but found it to be too expensive and heavy. Especially with a few other disadvantages. I was just looking forward to learning how to sweat some fittings! I know, I'm weird! I want to use heat tape and pipe insulation, the lady initially said to go with galvanized pipe, but then consulted with a more know-how guy and said to go with the pex. She was concerned I couldn't use the heat tape with PEX. I looked at the PEX mostly, and found that the barbed fittings would be the cheaper route to take compared to the push-lock fittings. About $100 cheaper! Even when I still have to buy the cinch tool. I dunno if PEX is worth it or not or if something else is better to go with? I was looking at doing CPVC, but I have seen that crack and break before. I'm not a plumber or anything so I do not know the best route of action to take. Ultimately what I plan to accomplish with this idea is I will have a line running under the trailer that will feed from the end of the trailer or at the middle to hook up to the water source. Whichever one is not used will be capped off. Then I will have a tee near the dump outlet to feed water to my sewer solution. The rest of the travel will go to the panel and tee off to the water supply for the trailer and the black tank flush port. I will have an RV water filter hooked up at the water source and a 5-10ft. hose to the hard line on the trailer. Keeping the heater tape requirement to a minimum. All of the line will be insulated and have heat tape. I would hope that this would be enough to keep things from freezing up on me. I've also looked at ducting insulation, foam board and batt. Could not find the spray foam in a can that I was looking for. Sounds like I'm gonna have to source that one from work. But hopefully, all in all I can get ahead of the curve and make this doable. One thing I think I will have trouble with is the slides. I dunno how I would insulate the sides and top... I suppose if I can accomplish all of this, time will then tell me where all the other weak links exist... just as long as that does not make a catastrophic failure!

Yes, the question relates to the RV I own now. I'll look into the forum you provided. I'd prefer to not have to boondock. I would probably do it, if I was not married! The wife would do it if we had to, but we are not camping! I would like to add solar panels, but looking into it, seems too expensive for the amount of return I could get. My original thoughts were to add panels on the roof, but there are many problems with that idea. What do you mean by catalytic heater? I've seen the small coleman heaters in that design, but is there a bigger one or something? The RV park is very strict about AC for heat. They had a fire not too long ago from an electric heater in a trailer that burned down the clubhouse building that had the laundrymat, etc. I was told I could use some electric heat for supplemental heating, but propane heat has to be my main source. My biggest problem is still the amount of lies told to me about the trailer... Artic package is FAR from being anything ARTIC. It would be no biggie for me if I was doing it for camping. But for everyday thing, big different story, haha. Now, this requires to run off a diesel engine that you already own, right? I don't have a diesel engine... lol. The underside of our trailer is covered with a type of corrugated plastic. I got under it the other day and found that not a LICK of the underside had a single square inch of insulation! WHAT! Artic package, my arse! I was told the tanks are heated, but who knows now. They told me the storage bay in the front is heated too. A single small vent from the furnace! Yep, heated... I'm actually going to look at doing an batt insulation. If the underside ever needs serviced, it would be a hay day for any tech to remove the insulation to get to something! I'm gonna use foam insulation when and where I can when its prudent, but batt and maybe a spray foam will be best. My biggest problem will be my dump line and water line. I'd like to steer clear from going to a pvc dump line. I use the sewer solution for my dump line. I think I'm gonna get heat tape then cover it all with insulation for lines.

Now, whats it means by fuel only?

Read this: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/70-factors-affecting-2-cycle-oil-performance http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/71-2-cycle-oil-engine-noise-reduction ^ Since there is no data on this product you bought on how it will affect your truck, a decible meter might be the best way to measure how it affects your truck. Well, atleast the cheapest!

Hey! Welcome! Stick around here, you just might learn a thing or two. Dripley is right, the shims are for adjusting the pop pressure of the injectors. The springs get weaker over time and it "tightens" them up. I may suggest that you get rv275's if you got some cash to spare.

Lemme know if you decide to rebuild it if it needs it. I've got an article from pirate 4x4 for setting up your diff.

Wait, what are we toalking about? :think:Your asking about replacing the gauge lights with LEDs? What for?

Sounds fair! Considering your drive time, wear and tear, fuel and shipping.

Hey, maybe I'm wrong. I'll have to check and see when mine hits into OD next time I'm cruising. For S&G's, before you look into the convertor thing, look into this: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues You could possibly be having a hunting issue? Dunno if your range of trucks is affected like our 2nd gens.

...and sell it to me?

I have both on mine. The holding tanks are heated but the black tank is not. Unfortunately, I was looking for dual-pane windows and they did not have any. I'm gonna have to look into doing the whole plastic window insulation thing. I just did a little reading though, sounds like the "arctic package" is not much to scream about. Dang manufacturers, they just don't stop! I've been told by the locals here that a couple weeks out of the coldest part of the year it can get to be below 0. Some of these people here though, they are living in campers from the 70's!

Meh, mine shows AC and I can measure the voltage. I second you on the home depot thing. I don't prefer them out of personal reasons, but when you live in a small town and thats all thats open or have one, you don't have much of a choice when you NEED it. I keep hoping a Lowes will come about..