hex0rz

I know what the tubes are supposed to look like.. I'm wondering how in the world they could have gotten this way in the first place...

The 24v valves are computer controlled. So if I push the pedal in, it does not matter. I would call it an "electronic throttle". Yours is mechanical, ISX. I would have done the same thing, but it does not apply here. It reminds me of those days when I had a carbed truck and had to get it going like that in the cold mornings... Yea, so I followed my theory. I cracked lines 1, 3, 4 and 5. Cranked the truck. Line 1 started weeping fuel. Closed it. Waited for the starter to cool, then cranked. Got line 5 to weep. Then did 3 and 4. Only took 3 cranks to get her going! She ran a little rough for a moment then smoothed out. Had a haze at idle. Truck was cold... Got my oil pressure and reved a little. Had a good cloud going. So I ran it for a few minutes to let her purge and warm up a little. Double-checked everything and got her out for a spin! So right off the bat, she ran ALOT smoother! The response was snappier and does not take nearly as much throttle to get her up to speed! If I'm not careful she can take off from under you! I did a big loop through town and the outskirts on the backroads. By the time I got it 1/2 way through town, she was already warming up. It was definitely alot quicker than before! By the time I could get her opened up I was on the backroads. Got her doing 80 without even a WOT. I did not want to do WOT anyways as I don't want to stress the transmission. The transmission seemed to handle the power just fine, too! Seemed to shift alot smoother. So I noticed driving that if I get her going, the coolant temp is a tick above 190. Hoping that is normal and my cooling system is fine. Just thinking that its from the sudden introduction of all those BTU's? So the truck puts out more heat. I can have a warmer cab sooner and hotter! Gotta love the excellent atomization! It matters! Before I did the injectors, cruising, I noticed that the EGT's would be at 700 degrees F doing 70mph. Now, doing 70mph cruising, the EGT's are at 800 degrees F. Fuel pressure is doing good as well. Did not notice any need to address fuel pressure. Although, BOOST is significant! Getting on it to get up to 80mph, boost was at 27psi. I'm sure I could have gotten up to 30psi or more on a WOT. Idling warm, it was much quieter and smoother. Although, after my little escapade, I probably sucked down a few gallons! Gotta be easy on the throttle! All in all, I would say its one of the most IMPORTANTE upgrades! I do not regret doing these injectors! So, here is some pictures of the injector job! This is before I cleaned them up.. What is this all about? Took a wire wheel on my drill to them. Cleaned up pretty good! Here are my old injectors! WOW! This picture does not do justice! Yea, we can see that they are all coked and sooted up. But what you don't see is that some of the holes looked blocked! Coking dominated these! Taking out these old injectors, I could see disel dripping off the ends... I dunno if they were all pooled up on the nozzle, or if it was just diesel leaking out from the relief port down the injector. Regardless, they needed replaced! I noticed, I have the crankcase breather modification, and it vents right onto my front diff. It looks wet from the venting. I'm concerned these injectors have been leaking for a while now. Is there any tests I can do besides having an oil analysis done to see if I need to do an oil change? Also, could this amount of coking/soot on these old injectors be all from me? Or is this something that looks like thousands of miles of neglect?

From what I've read, the lift pump does not push fuel through the vp44. You have to crank the truck to get any fuel past the vp44. I did originally have the lines torqued down, then I loosened them. I did it that way so the lines would seat properly. Sounds like I just need to crack the lines again and shut each one as they start weeping fuel... I'll report back in a little!

Okay, I'm at a total of 12 cranks or so now. At 10 cranks, I had line 5 also cracked. Fuel started coming out of line 3 and 5. I sealed them all up. After, the truck would start to fire somewhat. It was not turning over and running roug, but kind of firing while cranking. Lots of black smoke. At 12 cranks, I gave up. Was late, cold and hungry.I'm gonna wait until tomorrow to try it again and see if she will crank over. I was thinking about cracking open lines 1 and 4. As fuel was not coming out yet. I think if I can atleast get 3 to get firing she will take off...Hoping that these injectors don't make me have to try and crank a few times in the cold just to get them going on a regular basis...

COOL! I have both of those. I think some steel wool would be better idea... On the other hand, I pulled injector #1 and MAN! You guys have gotta see it! I hope the majority of it was not from me! When I get done with the injector job, I will post up some pics! --- Update to the previous post... Alright, I got everything buttoned up. Got lines 1, 3, and 4 cracked. Cranked 4 times for about 30 sec. each time. I'm getting nothing. Not even a slight fire... Suggestions?

Alright Pepsi! Your video did not discuss everything needed to do the job. That okay though... you get a mulligan this time! :wink:Just gaining access to remove the steel lines is a PITA! I almost stripped out one of the bolts to the engine lifting bracket. I managed to get behind it and loosen the steel line.So I'm at a bit of a stopping point here. I removed the steel lines and crossover tubes. Except, I noticed that the end of the steel lines where they mate to the end of the crossover tubes are seemingly corroded of some sort. It is a white color and some reddish brown as well.The crossover tube ends do not have burrs or anything like that except from the shaft down from the o-ring, it looks like its rusty? I cant tell whats going on...I do not have the camera with me, as I think my mother-in-law has it. If you guys cannot comprehend what I'm talking about, I can try with my cell phone.I just need to know if this is a BAD thing or not. If not, is there any abrasives I can use to clean them up? Should I not even bother cleaning them up in this spot? Did not know if its a critical area....

I would seriously consider getting one these three instead: 1. http://store.dieseltruckresource.com/9fubomelipus.html 2. http://www.pureflowairdog.com/airdogII.php 3. http://www.fassride.com/shop/fuel-air-separation-systems/fass-hd-series.php

OUCH!!!!!

Any update on this? Did you get this all together and running again?BTW, guys, I checked with the junkyard and they only carry the dust shields and shims as a complete unit with the axles. They were not willing to part with them...So, I tried... Good luck in the search for them? Makes me appreciate spraying mine with undercoat spray!Maybe its worth buying them new at she stealership...

Is this a cost effective thing to do? When did or does your propane system pay itself off for the increase in mpg's? ISX, start crunching those numbers, baby!

You know what could be really neat? A family friend has his fireplace made to be accessed from both sides. One side of the fireplace is accessed from the living room, the other side is the kitchen. I think its a really cool idea!Also, where do you live? Is that not a caribou on your wall?

...wait, 2-3 more cranks than USUAL???? What 'am I missing here? Do you have a grid delete, or is it because of your injector size?

So, I wonder if it really was the vp44? Or was the truck being starved for fuel because of the small holes?

http://www.khq.com/story/17177490/idaho-communities-brace-manage-spring-flooding ^I suppose it must be worse than what we are getting here. As they went out of there way to report on your specific location. So I'm here in Spokane for the weekend and traveling from Sandpoint to Athol, the farm-fields looked like LAKES! Private drives to peoples houses who own these fields were FLOODED! Seen some people out on tractors trying to divert these lakes... You could literally watch this water stirred by the wind hit their private driveways as if it was a tsunami! CRAZY! I wonder what the whole April showers bring may flowers thing is gonna be like this year, as its still MARCH!

ISX, when you type your explanation, you sound so much smarter than when I have to literally listen to you. Do you use dip or something? On the other hand, I tend to agree with what you said. Catalyst was the word I was looking for. I feel that when you get HHO introduced to the fuel, helping the combustion be complete and getting as much work out of the process as possible. As for how much people are able to produce on demand:

Its astounding to know how much air is being sucked in to the engine.. These people are not even meeting the demands to properly feed an engine with this HHO. Still, what I don't understand, is why these vehicles see an INCREASE in mileage, despite the load they put on the vehicle? If something creates a load, then that means the mileage should decrease... Also, people have started dabbling into pulse width modulation and electrolytes as well. This has increased HHO production, but still does not define over-unity...

Have your brother as your lapdog..

See, I'm at a bit of a loss on the standard to measure its efficiency. People are using diff. methods to prove theirs works.I understand that the setup is parasitic and puts a load on by drawing so much amperage. But the thing about it is that people report gains in MPG, not losses. So there has to be something going on here.From what I have been able to conclude through reading is that the hydrogen in combo with the fuel allows for a complete, hot burn. Therefore reducing fuel consumption... ..its a supplement, or an additive, if you will.

I will refer to your video about the injector install when the time comes. I watched it once, so I got a good idea what to expect. I'm tooled up for the job!Hoping to avg 20mpg. I think I may break that and hover in the 22 mark though! ...its still raining though. :banghead:We've got some good urban flooding going on! I was up to my ankles in water when I stepped off my porch. The local creek has already flooded over its banks. This is just the start too!

I have looked this subject of the HHO system over back a few years ago when it started getting more publicity. At the time, I was still in the gasser world and never gave it thought to a diesel. Now that I'm a convert and drive a diesel, I wonder what benefits there may be using this system with a diesel?I can think of a few things that need to be addressed at the beginning:- Hydrogen embrittlement- Low ignition point of hydrogenNow, as far as pre-detonation goes, this may be addressed by my VP44 and the CR's, but I don't think this is an entirely viable thing with the p7100's.Has anyone ever heard of using HHO on a diesel, or let alone run one?

It was not the man in braun... It was the man in blue. The one that carries the mace and doggy treats. Imagine that! :whistle:When you come up here to Idaho, you start running into people that say the darndest things. My first year here up in the North, I thought I was not gonna be able to understand what they were sayin'...I talked to the guy at DAP, and he said the 75hp injectors are the biggest I should go with the stock turbo. I don't want anything bigger anyways as I don't want to stress the transmission.DAP has them popping at 300 bar. I'd like to get them to pop at 4500psi. I think thats 310 bar. We shall see how they do with what they have them at..The guy at DAP said I should see about a 2mpg gain, and when I add a tuner box, it should not be surprised to see a total of 4mpg increase. If I get them IAT fooler mod in, and if my injectors are not performing right, maybe I will see alot more!Guess we shall see! I won't be able to start doing them until I get back into town and the weather is fair... Hold tight!BTW, DAP was able to tell me all I needed to know about their injectors:VCO Nozzle, not SAC's. 7-hole at 300 bar. Not sure on hole-size or needle style. They should be very effective for DD!

Yeeeep... DAP 75HP Injectors! :hyper:Its raining like a cow pissin' on a flat rock! :ahhh:Stay tuned! I'm gonna post up about the install and let you guys know how it pans out!

Might as well be riding horses by the time they get this shoved down the pipe...

I don't see any problem with taking a garden hose or something with a low pressure and washing out the tubes.. The seal is designed to keep stuff out, so I can't see why water would be a problem.As for the axle shaft, I would see if emery cloth with a fine grit would take out the groove. Depending on how deep it is...If you want, I can get you in touch with the local junkyard here for the parts. I'm going to see them for some stuff this Saturday and will ask them about the parts. 2 dust shields and 2 shims. Get the price and can post up here. If you want to order them, I can give you there number and they will ship them to you.

I hope you were not using rustoleum. IIRC rustoleum does not need primer...When I cleaned out the axle tubes, I did it when I was doing the seals. So I did not need to worry about cleaning them as I could get it from the opposing side. I've thought about any ways to drill into the axle tube and thread an air line fitting on. Then chuck the airhose to the fitting and let her rip and blow all the debris out of the tube.I still to this day do not understand why dana did not make outer seals...Looking at your axle shaft, I can see exactly where the seal runs. The rubber has allowed dirt to work a groove right in front of it. Keep mindful of that. If your seals go out after doing this repair, your gonna wanna smooth that area back up.As for the rubber on your suspension components, I can't say. If the rubber looks dry and cracked and there is play, it would probably be a good idea to replace. Usually, when I take my truck into the auto shop for alignment, they will inspect my components and let me know if its something needing replaced as it will affect the alignment.Your dust shield and shim is not a problem. You don't need to take the assembly apart to put them on. Just take the axle back out and slide the shield and shim down the shaft. Be mindful how the shield goes on, as you can get it backwards. You will find out real quick when putting back together... The shim goes between the shield and hub, BTW.Put loctite on the threads of the caliper bolt, or on the threads where the calipers thread to on the spindle. I usually go with blue loctite for bolts.TORQUE SPECS:Lug Nuts: 8-stud wheel: 135ft. lbs.Hub Bearing Bolts: 125ft. lbs.Hub axle Nut: 175ft. lbs.Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts: 38ft. lbs.