angus

I have a friend with a Chevy 2500 gas rig. He used a six inch hole saw right over the sending unit of his tank, then made a cute little aluminum tread plate cover for it.. It might sound extreme but its a wonder the factory never thought of it

Thanks for all the input guys. I think we will take a stab at the rebuild kit.. it can`t be any worse than buying who knows what?? for $95 bucks from a salvage.

My Son`s 99 has a leaking brake booster.. Due to his tight budget he is looking at buying one from a local salvage. I`m just wondering what the life expectancy is for these units?Are booster failures common on 2nd gens?

My new ones say 0813.. thats probably as new as anyone could expect. We`ll see how this set does.

All that combined with the savings on the drive train makes these a no brainer.. I`m pretty disciplined about keeping my credit card in check, but I might not be able to wait til fall...

My original plans were...Spintec hubsBall joints (dynatrac)??New axle ujointsBrakesLift pump&filter upgradeDue to alot of unexpected tractor & hay equipment maintenence, it looks like the Spintecs are going to have to wait until this fall.I like Dorkweeds filtration setup from GDP, but my 03 has the APPS under the intake horn. So I`m looking at a FASS titanium with the F/W seperator and the two micron filter. I want to plumb it into the OEM filter housing to retain the fuel heater, and WIF functions even though the FASS tech I talked to did not reccommend it:think:.. I don`t see enough restriction here to cause a problem? I think he just wanted to sell me some more accessories.

Thats a great link. Its to late to check the old ones, but I`m gonna check the new ones this morning

About a year ago to the day, I bought a set of Cooper ST maxx tires for the 03. Up until last week I have been quite pleased with them all around.I was checking tire pressures, and noticed the left front was running about 15psi low. upon further inspection I found that the outer bead was cracked almost completely around.. The right front was cracked about half way, and both rears were showing signs of dry rot.I went back to the dealer, and after looking at them he informed me that the ST Maxx series is a commercial tire, and does not have a replacement warranty. after punching numbers, and giving me pro rate quotes, I think he began to notice the frown growing on my face... So he said let me call somebody, and see what they can do....After talking around the corner for about 10 mins he came back and said if I would pay the mount & balance they would swap them out for free:hyper: I wound up getting 10,000 miles for $40 bucks.. I`m just hoping for a little better luck this time around because I really like these tires

The only thing on the pumps around here are "ULSD" along with some bull ____ stickers saying required in all 2007 and newer vehicles, and recommended for all diesel engines..LOL!!Current low price is Wally World @ $3.65 a gallon and you can buy pure soy bean oil for $3.59 a gallon at the local farm supply store.Just curious... what kind of mileage do you get out of B20?? is there a noticable performance difference?

I`m going to mix the soy oil @ 2% in my off road diesel and try it in my tractors this hay season. from the data Mike put up 2% soy oil surpasses everything as far as lubricity is concerned. There are no bio diesel pumps down here in Oklahoma so I am not sure what to expect?? If they are mixing as high as 10-20% in pump bio I`m wondering what the HP, fuel mileage results are?? Mike informed me that the BTU or energy contained in bio diesel is lower than strait ULSD, but I`m thinking 2% might be a good balance to get the lubricity, and not suffer the performance losses:shrug:

Cuda, Do you think this was purely the result of high EGTs, or something else? I have seen some gas engines look similar to this that were exposed to severe detonation.. of coarse a diesel basically runs on detonation... but I`m wondering if it could be a combination of high EGT, and an overboost condition?? I have a friend who runs a Pro Mod door slammer and he found out the hard way pushing the envelope on boost pressure made his JE pistons look like they had a ball peen tune up.

I read an article on TDR that basically said the Mopar 4" and stock air box was good to 500hp.. They concluded any performance gains made with the K&N style systems we negligible, and you get a shitty filter to boot.

Wow! thats a bit more than I`m looking to bite off LOL! part off what perked my interest in this was the fact that I know at least one 2011 6.7 has blown a #4, and it seems to be something systemic with the CR:shrug: Maybe its just as simple as checking your line brackets as part of your regular maintenence??? It just seems peculiar it always seems to be the same line:think:

Check back and let us know what he finds.. and good luck.

I have heard rumors that K&Ns are bad news. If this turns out the rings & cylinders are wiped out? I don`t see how they could keep on marketing their product

Just some thoughts about valve guides here.. and some of the guys may want to correct my logic.A naturally aspirated engine has negative pressure, or vacuum on the intake ports which allows it to suck oil around the intake valve guides as they wear.A turbo, or supercharged engine have positive pressure on both the intake & exhaust all the time.I realize if the clearance gets wide enough the oil may weep regardless of pressure, but is does not seem like it should be as big a factor on a turbo engine. Just my:2cents:

I was reading a thread awhile back and the subject came up.. I think AH64 said he even carries a spare??I looked mine over and it seems to be ancored quite securely in a nylon bushing:think: Just wondering if a guy ought to replace this at some point as a preventative?

I know this topic has probably been addressed many times here, but what is the root cause of the # 4 line failures in CRs? I talked to a guy the other day who drives a 2011 service truck with 260k miles on it, and he said he was stranded once on the interstate with a #4 line failure... This seems to be an unresolved issue??

I hate to admit this, but the Japanese have had a leg up on us for years when it comes to cylinder heads. The American engines have certainly made great improvements over the years, but at one time it was`nt uncommon to see the valve guides completly worn out of an American engine in 100,000 miles. I totally agree oil/filter quality, and good maintenence can make all the difference. One of the things that intrigues me about adding two stoke oil to the fuel is its ability to lubricate the exhaust valves & guides, which is probably the prime source of crankcase contamination as an engine wears

Just some unscientific personal thoughts here.. but any type of combustion engine will turn oil black. I`m sure everyone has noticed that the color of oil tends to change much slower in a new engine than one that is completely worn out.As the miles, hours add up the rings & valve guides begin to lose their ability to seal combustion contaminants out of the crankcase even though there is no noticable lose in performance, and the engine may still be far from worn out.I read an article years ago from Torco, which is a brand of high end sythetic oil that is ran in alot of Top fuel dragsters & Funny cars. The most important aspect of synthetic oil is what they call shear viscosity. Which is the oils ability to protect surfaces under extreme pressures, such as the rod & crank bearings in a 5000+ hp nitromethane engine.There is a point where the pressure on a mated surface can become so great that petroleum based oil simply vaporizes, and you have metal on metal.Personally I don`t think any of us come anywhere near that point unless maybe we do some sled pulling on weekends??

I`m wondering if a transmission flush would help? Maybe as part of a routine preventive maintenence.

I priced the spicers when I was checking out Dynatrac ball joints, and they told me $90 bucks a pop...I`m still debating if I want to add those to my Spin tec project for next month:ahhh: Decisions Decisions!

It sounds like something is coming loose...I think I would go back and check the axle retaining nuts.. Maybe the unit bearing hubs while your there?? Let us know what you find

Did you replace the Ujoints in the "CV" part of the shaft ? My Son got into this with his 99 and there is a part inside the CV joint that keeps the knuckle from wobbleing.. Its been awhile, and I can`t remember exactly how it works, but Oreilly sells a rebuild kit for this pretty cheap if you think you have some slop in the CV part I would pull it out, and drive the truck around to see... Just my:2cents: P.S. I just noticed you are talking about the "axle ujoint" but this might be something to check anyway

Thats good information Mike. I was reading an article testing different filtration systems on 3rd gens. Their conclusions were that the stock system was good up to 500hp, and that the slight gains achieved with the K&N style filters was diminished when the stock cold air intake system is removed. So you wind up paying big bucks for little or no gain, and a shitty air filter to boot.