ColoradoColt

Yes it definitely takes a lot of talent, patience and knowledge to build a good transmission. It would be nice to be able to watch a pro build one. I don’t think I’ve found any good ones of them getting put back together

Found this on YouTube this morning, usually just watch his videos for fun. But today I decided to look for a 47re specific one that he did and found this! Very informative video and quick tear down

So I was messing with my scanner just figuring out how to use it more, it doesn’t have check engine light. Even though I do have a speed sensor code. Anyways I did an all module scan and this showed up...(along with 3 ABS codes)....Can’t seem to find anything on it. Does anyone have any clue what it means?

I think I only removed #1 from one of the sets because I couldn’t get my wrench to fit at the injection pump for number 2 without removing 1 or 4. Which is odd because the second time around I got them all off without removing any separately. Must have not tried hard enough the first time!

Just put them all back on! Thanks

I do not, I took them off when I did the injectors. I think I left one on each to help keep them together. Was that a bad idea?

Finally found it Looks like I should have done a better job putting it back together after the injectors! Btw that’s not soapy water. That’s fuel

I have not yet, but I will check out that article and do that. I was hoping it’s just the radiator since I had already ordered one from rockauto and my current one doesn't leak coolant, just whistles at me when I turn the truck off out of the crack. I had the intake horn off and changed gaskets so it could also be that I didn’t torque it down correctly. The old ones seemed more like cardboard, and the new gasket was more like aluminum coated or something, much thicker. So is it possible I have to torque a little more then spec? I was going up a small grade when it sounded like a blew a seal from something and the whistle started.

Okay so I just got done with a 20mile drive to feed my horses. After tightening the #3 fuel line at the injectors, I haven’t had any issues with rough running, idling or leaking... Man it was spraying everywhere before though. Also I think I have a pretty big boost leak. Unless my 1/16 inch radiator crack whistles with boost?

So just got home. Pretty dark so I can’t see much. But fuel is everywhere! Checked all the lines and they seemed tight, before I check more tomorrow, does anyone have an idea on what could have happened or where it’s coming from? It’s wettest between 2-5 injectors. And the vp I believe the #4 line was wet but I was thinking it may have just dripped down it. Also I hear a high pitched whistle that sounds like a boost leak, but I did just find a crack in the radiator that’s whistling at me, so I guess I’m getting that tomorrow too. I did clean all my fuel lines today since I didn’t when I changed injectors. I also removed and cleaned the intake horn boots. So maybe I messed something up?

.just pulled up to a light and it’s idling at about 680rpm. Even in park. Sounds like it’s missing....what did I do now ??? P0501 is the only code pulled from PCM. i also have 2 ABS DTCs It also sounds really rough while driving down road

My new ones are at about 11% and 750 ..The stock old ones I had were idling at about 900rpm with 0% load at idle When I replaced them.

Here’s a pic of my stock injectors at 336,000

Delete(didn’t read original post good enough)

Btw I had my injectors Set at 310 bar

Okay I do have both a new ecm and timbo apps. Does that mean maybe it’s positioned wrong? I also noticed when I let off the throttle in any gear, the rpm hangs at about 1100-1200, before dropping down to where it normally does(around 800 I think)... I thought maybe that had something to do with APPS as well but it shows 0% throttle when it’s holding at 1200rpm

So should I try an APPS reset? Does that means it’s APPS causing it not the ECM?

I’m not sure on that. I did just send them out to get pressure tested. Wish I wouldn’t have because i hooked up my scanner again and this is what showed up while in park. Btw it was 58° out. https://youtu.be/3ax1iX9tfpU Sorry not sure why it’s not letting you click on the link https://youtu.be/3ax1iX9tfpU

https://arestechnologies.com I’m pretty sure if you give them a call they can help you out. Great prices. That’s where I got my ecm

My old injectors didn’t smoke at all, a small puff of black when WOT. What does grey smoke mean? Yes I did tighten crossover tube first, I’m pretty sure I followed an article I read on here

I got some DAP 7X0.010, and just the default v2 tune

So I got it started. Hasn’t idled rough yet. But it is blowing a good amount of grey smoke if I stomp on it. On a low level on the quad it doesn’t smoke at all, but 7+ tons of grey smoke. Half the time it’s black it seems like.

Yes I had already primed it and it really pours fuel from the injection pump.( I did notice my airdog motor tone change) I tightened that And crackEd the 1,2, and 4 and not even a little comes out. I had this problem once when I went too low on fuel, gauge said 1/4 tank and I guess it was empty. Could never get fuel to injectors but once I sprayed a little starting fluid in it, it started up and ran good after a couple minutes. I’m not sure what this means, but before I put the injectors in, and it was idling rough, if I turned off the A/C, it would idle much worse. Does this also confirm injectors? Since the A/C put a slight load on the engine?

So new injectors are in. But now it won’t start. I’m getting fuel to the injection pump, but no matter how long I crank it, not even a drop gets to any of the lines where I cracked them.

I have not messed with apps since I replaced it with timbo. Injectors are stock. Ordered a set awhile back but never got to installing them. Idle load % is 0-1...I’ll put the injectors in tomorrow and see if that fixes it. One thing I forgot to add is it seems like in the morning When I let the truck warm up, the first 15 min while it’s cold, it does not idle rough.