ColoradoColt

I noticed today it’s actually the airbag light that comes on randomly while beeping.

Not sure why I didn’t get any notifications about this. I miss spoke when I said it does it until warmed up, even when coolant temps have reached 190° it will still do it. I have to drive for at least 20-30 mins for it to stop, and it will only drive normal again if I shut off the truck after that 30 min and back on. It does blow white/grey smoke when it’s driving bad, and black or none when it’s driving normal. I have no codes when this happens. Just a random check gauges light flashing every few minutes and rpm and speedometer will switch between working and not working. Sounds like timing changes or something when the rpm gauge drops to 0. Only reason I also suspect vp44 or just the psg is to my knowledge it is stock. So that’s 350,000+ miles. I know for a fact it has at least 200,000 on it Also the injectors have about 30,000 only. Fuel pressure is about 18 idle and 16 under any load

Guess you were right, finally got ecm back and so far this morning it’s driving like normal. I do notice still under moderate to heavy throttle it cuts out a little until warmed up.

Okay, I don’t know much about electrical but I’ll give it a shot when I get my ecm back from being tested. I replaced my trans output speed sensor and it fixed my problem shifting from 1-2 in the mornings. Im still unsure if it’s Ecm or Electrical at all, only because it’s fine once I get up to speed for a little bit. Then it’s fine for the rest of the day. I noticed a couple months back I was hauling some horses and I had to cross a wash with some deep sand and the back end just dropped, I tried 4wd and was still stuck, so I unloaded the horse and had to back up a little and pretty much floor it out the other 20 feet. I noticed when reaching between 2600-3000 rpm it sounded like a miss fire, the rpms dropped when it sounded like it, and blows a little white smoke. It seems like it de fuels for a second before jumping right back where it was. Could this be an injection pump issue? I don’t usually get that high rpms often but when I have to it does the same thing. I only wonder about the Vp because I think I’ve read some people saying that the temp of the injection pump it’s self could be causing the issues?

Okay thanks for the help. I haven’t had much time lately to look at it until today so I’ll run those tests. I cleaned all grounds again and changed both batteries. The Problem still only happens in the morning until I drive about 20-30 min. Then is fine all day. My fuel pressure gauge just showed up last night so I will relay that info as well.

One battery did fail so I replaced it. Driving normal so far but it was warmed up already. Check engine light is off and gauges seem to be working properly

I’ll check that connector, Batteries are clean and bought at the same time about a 1 1/2 years ago. They are Walmart batteries though so I will go get them tested right now. I’ll check out the ecm later as well, although it is less than a year old. I haven’t unhooked the quadzilla yet either but it’s also a year old or less. Same with airdog, which is powered by batteries with a relay. Probably 50,000 miles max on all the new parts. Lastly no fuel pressure gauge yet. I plan on ordering the kit for the quadzilla. I’ll stop at autozone and get a manual gauge for now to check my fuel pressure. Thanks for the help. It seems to be getting a little worse everyday. But after about 20-30 min of driving the problems seem to go away. Until the next morning I did replace my radiator and it seemed that very soon after if not the next day it happened. Maybe there was some wire I could have hit and unhooked or ground I accidentally broke. I’ll give it’s good look over today. I also noticed my fuel gauge was reading wrong for a day. I filled up and it said 3/4 when I knew it was full. This was yesterday. Today it’s all the way full where it should be.

No change with fuel cap off. Today I did have 2 more symptoms, ABS light flickering randomly and rpm gauge dropping to 0 when it’s not actually at 0

With a scanner I’ll give it a shot when I leave work today and let you know how it goes.

I hope it’s not the ecm. I’ll send it back to get tested. It’s not even a year old.

This morning

Okay oil pressure is normal after replacing it with an old one I had. Coolant normal as well. The only issue is p1698. It cuts the throttle so much until I get about 12 miles down the road and it’s fine again. I’ll post a video I took the other day of what it was doing. I was at between 80-95% throttle for the entire video, that’s how it acts unless I give it about 10% only. Then it will drive normal, until about 12 miles of driving, then I can give it any amount of throttle and it drives fine.

Another symptom today was check gauges light because oil pressure pegged at 100 and coolant keeps changing between 190 and 240

Yes exactly, So just like yesterday I went out after letting it warm up about 5 minutes. Anything over 10% throttle and I lose all fueling and it cuts out like 0. But my scanner still shows the correct throttle %. So if im giving it 10% and it cuts out, the scanner still shows 10%. None of the live data I can read seems off. I was thinking it’s a PCM issue and it’s not getting the signals from the trans correctly. I’ve checked all my connections and wiring to the pcm and everything seems fine. It also threw the same code this morning and my rpm gauge dropped to zero then back up to normal before the light came on.

I can say forsure once everything was warmed up the problem is completely gone. Once everything’s cold. I can barely move. The cut outs are very abrupt and rough kind of like accelerating then dropping into neutral.

No codes are present. My problem is when trying to accelerate, anything over around 10% throttle and it cuts out and loses all power like I put it in neutral. Barely got to 40 mph on my way home. Hopefully not a transmission issue. I had a tire blow going down the highway at about 75 last night and not sure if I knocked something loose or what. Had a p1698 code a couple weeks ago with no symptoms and cleared the code without it coming back. The problem doesn’t seem as bad once the engine or maybe transmission gets up to temp. Any help is very appreciated.

I’m located in Tucson. Although I’m not too sure I can help. It seems like an ecm problem with the WTS light. Did you make sure you tightened all grounds after w-t ground wire mod? I had the same issue with my ecm because of AC noise from the alternator. By the time I got a new one and did the ground mod it was too late, I got a new one from https://arestechnologies.com. They also repair them I believe. Any codes?

Awesome thanks I can pick one up from them on my way home. Autozone didn’t have any dimensions for them and the last one I bought for the passenger side was moog for 75$. I noticed the Spicer one is only 60$

So getting the driver side axle u joint done today. I did the passenger side about 6 months ago and everything went fine. So here’s where I need help. I watched a few videos and read a few articles on the driver side, and some people have said that if it’s 4wd you have to lock it in 4 so that something doesn’t drop in the diff when you pull the axle shaft? Is there any truth to this or can I just do it the same as the passenger side? Also does anyone seem to have a part number for the driver side u joint? Autozone gave me too small of one already which I remember they did last time so I had to bring in my old one to compare. Today I don’t have another Vehicle to go back if they get me the wrong one again so any help on that is very appreciated.

Everything went well. Going to have to remove the dash again in a month or so because I just ordered a new one. Mine was pretty cracked but it never bothered me because of my dash cover. Now it has about a football sized hole in it. It didn’t take too long, I started at around 12:30 and finished about 6 or a little before. I never took the dash completely out, I just took off all the screws at the top, then the one on each side on the brackets. 2 from steering column and pulled the dash as far as I could without breaking anything. I didn’t even have to unplug anything. The Only way I could remove the heater core and put in the new one without cutting was taking all the nuts off that hold the HVAC box and slide it back about 6 inches, luckily the A/C lines had enough room to come with so I didn’t have to do anything with that.

Okay yes it missing that 90° piece. So that’s exactly what’s happening then because while stopped it wasnt leaking in the cab. While parked it leaks out the drain at the firewall. Thanks! Glad to know I got the right part since I’m already halfway through removing the dash lol

Noticed a big puddle under my truck this morning. I know it’s coolant because it was low and on my way to pickup hay the cab was filling with steam. And the carpet is wet on the passenger side. I’m assuming heater core but heard that it leaks in the cab not out. I took a video of somewhere that seems to be leaking but maybe it’s just dripping down from there? Also looks like maybe a something attached there and fell off? I’m not too sure, any help is appreciated. I already bought a new heater core because I figured I should replace it because I’ve done everything else in the coolant system, heat and A/C. FullSizeRender.mov

Here’s my exact one. I know when I installed it, it snugged up and everything was fine. Now I tightened it all the way and it still rattles. When I start the truck I can feel hot air coming out so it’s leaking.

So I installed a egt sensor when I got my adrenaline however long ago it was. Alls been fine up until last week. I noticed it was defueling very often with lots of throttle and I was hitting my 1200 egt limit very fast. I checked the fittings and the one that goes directly into the manifold is loose and I can hear a whistle. I’m worried to go any tighter because it would be at the very top of the threads and I’m worried it would make it too big to even hold the fitting at that point. Is there any other type of fitting I can use that’s a size up but will still fit the adrenaline egt probe?

I started having a similar issue. I noticed a puddle under my truck one morning and noticed I smelled fuel, it hard started as well so I knew it was a leak somewhere. I felt the return line at the back of the head and it seemed dry, but I’m sure that’s where it’s leaking because when I park nose down in my driveway it starts up fine even after sitting 12+ hours, yet if I park flat or nose up it always takes 5-6 seconds of cranking before it starts.