weissguy01

@Mopar1973Man, could you create a chart or table with the basic capacities of fluids for reference? It would go great in an FAQ article…

@Tractorman, it was a little uneven, but I could still drive it. I also went a week or two like that, waiting on time to do the repair.

If memory serves right, it’s 5 volts supply. Backprobe the connector for the crank sensor for the signal and ground wire. Spin the crank by hand and watch the voltage. It should read 5 volts or 0 volts, showing the peaks and valleys in the tone ring.

I also have a 99. I had the pleasant experience of having a piece of the crank tone ring come off. It’s a two piece deal and the screws broke. When I pulled my crank sensor, the end was broken off. After replacing the crank sensor with a new one, my tach still didn’t work. An inspection camera in the hole revealed one of the pieces was missing. The hardest part of the job was getting the oil pan out. I had to order the tone ring from Cummins.

Hydrogen is really flammable, that’s what they think was most of the problem with the Hindenburg. I work on forklifts and such, and they do use hydrogen fuel cells for electric lifts. I don’t know the specifics, nor have I worked on or been trained on this technology. I do know the hydrogen filling areas are kept way from most other things and are fenced off. I know of a couple companies that stopped using them after fires and/or explosions.

I saw $4.98 in Greensboro, NC. Down from $5.38.

I’d be interested, as long as I was free. Between work, unpacking boxes and 2 kids, free time is lacking. I need to talk to a welder, my beds starting to rust out, but that should probably be another post.

I’m not super well versed, but all the 12 valves I have seen, trucks and industrial, were mechanical pumps that ran off the cam, like @JAG1said, with the hand primer.

That’s a cool way to explain it.

It’s been in the 70s here, but with Nicole rearing her head, we’re hearing of heavy rain and tornadoes this weekend. Next week is supposed to be 40s and 50s. Keep the snow to the west, please.

I only went with a 3 piece to prevent cracking. In my mind, it made sense for the expansion/ contraction.

I’m in the process of getting moved in to the new house. I was away from my family for the last 4 months as we tried to sell our house in PA, and buy a new one in NC. My wife is from NC and her father is disabled and needs more help than before. I was living with him after taking a new job down here. I’ve lurked for years and didn’t really have anything to contribute. I figured it’s time to jump into the discussions, and started to wonder where everyone was.

I’ve lurked here long enough to know Mike was going to say something about my gearing. 4.10s are in my future once I find a decent shop to do it.

In trying to get my truck setup so it doesn’t smoke like a train, I finally pulled the plug and made an order at DAP and got a Quadzilla. When I bought my truck, the PO had installed an XDP HO Extreme injection pump. My understanding is it’s equivalent to the hot rod VP. Anyways, How should I setup the Quadzilla? More truck info below. 1999 Ram 2500 5 speed NV4500 HO extreme injection pump 100 HP injectors, supposedly BD Diesel Super B Killer turbo. 61/76/14 3.55 gears 315/75r16 tires i also got 150hp injectors set at 320 bar I haven’t installed yet. I assume I’d have to change the timing afterwards. I know I need a gear change also.

Yes. That was about 6 months ago

I’m having intermittent issues and not sure where to begin. First with what I know. After starting the truck, within a couple minutes, the tach becomes intermittent. It works, then won’t, so on and so on. While driving, it will stumble. Not all the time, and when it does, it does it like 2 or 3 times in a row. It seems like as soon as it’s at operating temperature, it runs fine. If it sits for a couple hours, it runs fine. In the past month, it’s shut off on me 3 times while driving. After it shuts off, it will crank but won’t fire. After it sits a minute or two, it fires and runs fine. Temperatures were in the teens when it happened, not sure if there’s a correlation or not. After it shut off, codes were: 215 336 1690 1693 No comm between ECM and IP, don’t remember the exact number 380 About 6 months ago, the tone ring on the crank let loose and took out the crank sensor. After 3 crank sensors and wire testing, I shoved an inspection camera in the sensor hole and saw the big part of the tone ring was missing. The wires were good then, guess it’s time to recheck them, maybe a new crank sensor went bad? I recently replaced the cam sensor, no change. May 2018 brought the VP death code of 216. That’s when I got a HO Extreme from Xtreme Diesel Products. It’s almost 2 years old, less than 5000 miles. From what I read, 215 and no comm usually mean the VP is about to punch out, but at the same time could it be an ECM problem? The intermittent thing is what’s getting to me. Would it be worth sending both out to get checked? Sorry for being so long winded, just trying to get all the info out there I know.