flagmanruss

Have you checked your brakes? I had the fronts rust seized & dragging. It drove me nuts, dealer told me "no codes" nothing wrong with it! Truck has so much power, I towed for a year before an inspection found it. Russ

The WM 2 cycle oil is TCw3 rated, fine to use. It's all intended to burn clean & that's what you want. I've run WM Tech brand, Pensoil, what ever. I bought a couple of quart bottles of the stuff... I measure into the quart bottles when I "refill them" (about 3/4 full). I compress some of the air out of the bottles & they travel in my door pocket, just pour in a the fuel station, add fuel & go. I carry 2 in each door pocket & that'll carry me through most trips.Russ

Looks good... but I do think you want to have some cooling air going through... How much??Russ

The dang rust has eatten all 4 of my door edges. I guess when Dodge paid out big bucks to settle the class action suit for CARS rusting body panels... then only upgraded the CARS & not our trucks. I'm throughly discussed wityh the rust issues my truck has. I bought it new, paid big bucks... Russ

Bummer. I managed to bust both of my tail lights backing into things that hid below gate level. One side put a 2" stratch in the fender which I did not fix. I bought the lenses off e-bay. That was all in one freakin week...Yup, it hurt. Russ

Since the temp sensor is behind the grill & in front of the radiator... if air is moving through the radiator, it stands to reason that the downstream air will be warmer than the upstream. Now, I hear you that you do not have a fan installed & you were stopped, idling, so heat might spread more evenly.I'm interesting in the temperature of the airstream supplied to the air cleaner & thus to the engine. There is a big grey area between the low temps where the grid heater runs & ideal intake temperature. Does anyone know the IAT temperaure that the computer shuts off the rich burn?Russ

I think the overhead sensor the the doohicky on the hood behind the grill. I'd like to know what the air temp is outside the air box... & inside, too.I will look at my overhead just to see what the sensor says... but that's in front of the radiator. Still the truck should run fine in 60 degree weather... so 60 degrees on the sensor should not be alarming. Errr, I guess that's what you were trying to say. SorryRuss

The SS system I put on... one size larger from the turbo back... it came with a muffler. The muffler is straight through with just a few louvers in the pipe. But it is a "muffler" for those places that require one, and it's SS also so it will not rot out quickly. Being full diameter all the way to the tailpipe it is much less restrictive than stock where the tail pipe was 1/2" smaller diameter than the head pipe. It has plenty of bark...Russ

Monel is a very tough alloy... with superior corrosion resistance. predates stainless steel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel http://www.steelforge.com/metaltidbits/monel.htm

I think the nicest tank I ever saw came out of an old Chris Craft... round tank made of monel. It lasted 30 years in the boat, before I ever saw it.

I have no experience with transfer tanks. I have had off road equipment with a welded steel gasoline tank just hanging on it the salt ocean air... 17 years worth with no problems. We threw a coat of enamel paint on it once in a while along with the rest of the machine. Please note when dear ole Dad failed to duck low enough to clear said tank, tank was undamaged... Dad's head did not fair so well.Russ

It would be very interesting to see how high the under hood temps are when running a cold front or other devise to restrict air through the grill / bumper. It's been said earlier, but I'll repeat here, that blocking the "radiatior" is not the same thing because there are a multiplex of coolers & such. In my experience, engine temperatures run normal with my cold front panels installed... and reach normal (dead center on the temp guage) about as quickly as they would in Spring & Fall. The bumper cut outs remain open so some fresh air is input.Before I reinstalled the cold fronts... that one trip out, I stopped at the market. The parking space had a big snow pile & I agressively pushed into the snow with the bumper. I realized that the bumper cut outs were solid snow when I got home. Note to self: "Do not do this with cold front installed." This will be the third season with these panels.Russ

Hammer,It seems your Lund panels cover the bottom 2 spaces (bumper & lower grill) where as ours cover the upper & lower grill and draw air through the open bumper slots. I do not see that either is significantly "better" but both variations on the same theme. Yes, it does increase the IAT, intake air temp to the engine. On a compression fired engine, warmer air in winter is a good thing, warming up the engine quicker reducing the rich warm up mode (better mpgs) & reducing the intake grid heater use.These would not be appropriate in summer, where the IAT is already warm enough & might actually cause overheating. You have yours & it works... all good!Russ

Sorry. I did not explain that because of my disability my left fingers are about worthless. So I need to be able to get the hardware started with my right hand using the left to press against the bolt from the outside. Then switch & use the left hand (gross motor skills) to just hold a wrench inside.

I had the CTD out today. I don't think it ever warmed up fully. Time to put the cold front back on, after all it's that time of year again. I bought all new stainless hardware this year. Hex bolts, self locking nuts, washers. I had such a time last year, I'm hoping that I can run these in with a power driver. I'll let you know...Russ

The repair kit from heatertreater have arrived. It seems smple enough. A 9V battery pigtail is even provided to check the motor to confirm it's good before reinstalling. I'll let you know how it goes.However, we have a blizzard bearing down on us so I'm not going to be taking anything apart today.Russ

I think there is a "kit?" to keep low elements on with the high beam elements. On low the high element is off. I forget where I saw it.Russ

I want to tie this thread to a new thread... I'm hopeful this will solve my issues... I have ordered the ungraded part. I hope it is this easy. Russ http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?p=5416#post5416

Thanks for this tip. I'm sure glad I've not paid someone to pull the friggin dash out again!Russ

It's certainly possible that a mouse found it's way in. I don't think it's a damaged line outside the cab. I did have to have the A/C pulled apart & to replace the evaporator a few years ago. It was very costly. I have the underneath of the hood hinges packed with SS steel wool (pot scrubber) to keep mice out & I've seen no sign of them. I have not been successful in keeping mice out of the Cirus & I have had to evict mice & clean the heater core by removing the fan / motor assembly & working through the hole. Russ

I read a bit on 12V aboout the speed control which is vacume operated... mine works as does the CAD. So this pretty much means it's in the heater box. I've not been able to get out to look at it. It may have to wait until I save up cash to get it done.Russ

Leave the porch light on, I'll be over! Ha!I'll let you know what I find.Russ

How does one get to the vacume motor & door?

More resarch on the "CAD"... Center Axle Disconnect. The dash light switch is triggered by the sliding sleeve which engages the RIGHT front shaft & wheel. So if the light is ON, the axle has actually engaged. If the light goes out (and mine does) then the axle has disengaged. In other words, it's working. While those lines can still stand checking, it reduces the odds of that being the source of the malfunction... it may help to know the vacume line routing.In my research the CAD valve on the transfer case can get grunged up but is responsove to cleaning. This is in relation to engagement issues.Earlier years had a recall for lack of a check valve allowing engine oil to contaminate vacume accessories.I think I need to scout under the truck to ensure the larger exhaust has not interfered with a vacume line somewhere. So I'm back to inspecting the air duct control door & the mechanics inside. Russ

Drove CTD again today. Funny thing... even though back in 2WD, it kind of felt crabby on a sharp corner, like front axle was still driving. My 01.5 has the front axle center section disconnect. Question: Does the vacume engage the center secion or disengage? I'm gonna have to crawl under the damn truck. (Crawling under is easier than getting out... ) In Short, I'm not sure that the front axle vacume line is intact. It'd be better to view all of that before taking anything apart.I can see the line from the front axle runs up inside the passengers fender. I'll have to track it. Is the control built into the tranny or some relay point? Not today it's raining & prediced to go over to snow. Russ