flagmanruss

I keep reading in the news about how the new owners of "Chrysler & etc" are planning to separate Dodge autos from Dodge trucks... in my mind they are preping to sell off the truck division. Meanwhile assembly lines are shut down, engine lines are shut down... My daily driver is a Cirrus. I wonder if the French get it that American drivers do not want & I doubt will buy some warmed over Renault. I fear these missteps will put Chrysler... bailed out with tax payer money... into the crapper for good! Russ

My overhead MPG is instant & right on in my pure stock truck... the mpg function is worthless. The average mpg is usefull. If I really want to get good average mpgs I keep the rpms below 2000 as much as possible. Shut off the cruise. Run it with my right foot, Never feed fuel to the truck if it will coast the desired speed, back off gradually as I crest hills. It's worth about 0.5 mpg. I've been able to coax this 4:10 truck to 18.6 on seasonable trips. If time is more important, I can drive more agressively & kiss that last mpg good bye.Russ

Looking hard at the outside surface of the mirror housing... it would become the bottom when mirrors are rotated to extended position. HmmmRussell

Hi guys,I have the OEM flip up & out trailer mirrors... There is a small flat spot under the arm. I thought about adding a small clearance light wired to the turns but wondered if it would be annoying to the driver. I don't have heated mirrors or other wiring out there... not sure how hard it would be to snake wires out there.My doors have a rubber bumper strip about belt line. I was thinking of adding a LED strip on the bed in line with that. I'd really like to be further forward but am pretty chick sh*t (sorry k) about the install. I have thought about going under the bed along the body panel seam but suspect that'll be damage prone. Russ

Hey, thanks keydl... this is a huge help. To repeat what you are saying (& clarifying my earlier post) if I convert to all LED lights, that I'd need to alter the flasher or add resistors as the LEDs don't have enough load to make conventional flashers work. However, just ADDING LEDs in addition to the OEM filament bulbs will work. The filament bulbs will create enough load for the OEM style flashers to work & the LEDs are in parrell so should work also. This is much neater than doing a full conversion & more in line with my original concept (though I admit day-dreaming about a full conversion to LEDs).Russ

I replaced my OEM batteries last Spring... they've been weak for a year. I got away with it by plugging the truck in at night, but I knew it was time. I went to Sears & bought the best batteries I could find. I've had good luck with them.Russ

Hi Mike,I've seem the strip you describe. A friend has one mounted on his Chevy gasser on the bed so it peeks out under the gate. He came to me when the adhesive failed & it needed to be attached for real. I didn't like it since it requires plugging into the trailer plug which I found to cause corrosion in the long run.However, that strip could be mounted behind the cab/on a headboard or bracket off the bed by a creative person. It would be short the thickness of the fenders but that's not too much at the top. It's an idea anyway. Keep 'em coming!Russ

keydl has got me thinking & reading... LEDs will "run" on 12V typically... ok for running lights... but some cautions that they may not / will not flash because they don't have enough resistance or need a different flasher?!I'd like to run a 12" strip on the bed... in line with the door anti-dent molding. Maybe strips for turn / brake on a bar above the bed / below the rear window... I was thinking of a bright Alum chanel or angle... Russ

Fascinating. Makes good sense though.

My truck is real long. Recently I had a couple of real close calls with *ss *oles I could not see, riding in my blind spots. I see some vehicles with the mirror turn signals but I don't really want to mess with my trailer mirrors.I'm thinking of adding some somewhere... Maybe behind the cab on top of the bed (I don't run a tool box, so that space is available). Or maybe LEDs under the truck, but I'm not sold on that approach yet. I don't like the idea of plugging into trailer socket as I've had corrosion problems leaving my gooseneck extension plugged in. Unfortunately there does not seem to be a T tap made for my truck, nor a place to put one in the harness. I'd be interested in setting up the taillight side marker to blink with the rear as well for better side visibility...I'm sure someone else may have already done this & have answers.Russ

Why couldn"t I find that? Thanks a lot. My bro will be glad to get the thing charging again. Not practical to push start. LOL!Russ

I'd like to identify an alternator... it's retrofitted to a Detroit diesel... actually in a 1950's narrow guage switcher locomotive. Undoubtably the original charging system was a generator. The alternator has the numbers RAY213-4011-SW. It has a built in Regulator. Thanks for any help. Russell

I an unhappy with the current trend to lower profile tires, even on trucks! In my experience, these lower profiles have crossed a line. Originally for high performance cars... now they are offered in the extreme. In my family vehicles, these lower profiles are IMHO more susceptible to impact damage... even on a light auto. The slight increase in sidewall height on truck tires can do no harm, so long as they can support the weight. I agree that narrower profile can be superior under certain circumstances... like in snow.Russ

The older systems with batteries just had too much cost risk but the concept of using the power grid as your battery is more interesting. The initial cost vs pay back, I'd have to stay in this house 20 years to recover. With my disability, I'm not sure that's going to happen. Wouold someone pay out enough to revover the cost if I sold... I don't think so. So I didn't do it.Russ

I got the Cirus back from the transmission shop rather quickly. Transmission was fine after they replaced a rotted out line & refilled it with ATF. I'm glad it was so simple.Russ

This incident really got my attention... there really was vehicles on both sides & one in front... narrowed lanes snaking between Jersy Barriers. Fortunately I'd prepositioned myself in the correct lane, so when a lane dropped into an exit, I was in the right place to catch my exit. Horrible place for a big vehicle. I was looking at those oil bottles today... looking down from the driver's seat. They are half mooshed between the door & the seat. I always take some air out after measuring the dose. I just can not believe that there was any movement. There must be some springing or seat flexing that I don't understand. It's pretty obivious that the oil bottle at a 45 degree angle would come up under the UP seat control... IF the seat bounced way up. I gotta look under that seat or does someone know?Some sort of retainer is gonna be installed in that door pocket. I don't see why a simple L wouldn't work with a couple of screws or pop rivets. Russ

I can laugh about this now… It is funny now that it’s safely concluded. I was not laughing at the time. My car is in the shop, so I’ve been driving my (signature) truck. On some bumps it can be rough riding... don't BS me! You know the bumps that bounce your foot off & on the GO pedal. Yes, it’s challenging to get up there with my leg problems, but it was more than a year ago when I fell out of the truck while trying to get in.So I had to go to the “Big City”… Providence… where I 95 runs right through center city. There is currently a major relocation of the intersection with I 295 going on… over a year at this point. Rte 95 moves back & forth over a number of temporary surfaces occasionally with a bump at the transition. So I’m going N on 95, through this narrow laned maze… about 55 mph… traffic is moving but a bunch of cars! I go over one of those bumps, get bounced a bit… I’m just trying to stay in my own lane when the truck gets a mind of it’s own. Specifically, the power seat I’m sitting in goes nuts & starts going UP. All the way UP. I have to stay in lane, there are NO shoulders to pull over. I can barely reach the go pedal with my toe & the seat belt is trying to strangle me! All I could think of was the computer was getting revenge on me or the power seat switches had shorted out from the bunp!I did not have a choice except to keep driving… so I did. I only had a couple of exits to go & I was able to get off my exit. I turned into the first side street & stopped & opened the door. I keep a couple of quart oil bottles in my door pocket with premeasures doses of "fuel additive" (tcw3). It just happens that both were empty but the forward one had tipped over forward. It must have hit the seat switch… or this truck has a ghost. I put the seat back down… properly set it when I arrived at my destination… It’s really funny, now that I’m home…Russ

Mike,The beam pattern may not be perfect... or not best suited to truck/road use... but a 100W H3 is a decent amount of light. These bulbs are sealed beams, so you know the filament location/reflector/lens pattern (if any) is designed for the intended use. In other words a matched system. I have dealt with rubber tractor buckets on tractors, backhoes & off road equipment & have no complaints. Might there be a better bulb choice? Maybe... that would be an avenue to explore. My aircraft owner friends insist that "aircraft landing lights" are more of a flood light wide area beam... than a spot light. And still not a shaped beam like automotive. I just know that adapting mismatched parts may not be as successful as we would like... As in instally differing bulb types in lens reflector assemblies they are not specified for. The manufacturer (of the lens / reflector assembly) should provide the correct bulb number(s) that are matched to his product. Trial & error is a very expensive & time consuming pastime. Especially since H3 & HID lamps are differently constructed. If they were similar, one might try to measure the filament to base dimention with an appropriate dial caliper... a lot of guess work but better that blind guessing. Russell

I went out to gas up Cirrus... No shift either F or R. I shut it off & restarted. After a few minutes, I got shift. Low ATF on stick. Drove to town, added ATF a little at a time... took nearly a quart! WTF?? I don't trust it now. I was gonna go visit my brother for the weekend... I still am but CTD is going. I don't see any leaks or drips on the ground... always a chance of blown cooler in radiator. I see a trip to local tranny shop in my future.Russ

Years ago, my buddy used to run straight pipes on his '57 Chevy 327. He got it inspected a few times by shoving 5# of steel wool up each pipe with a broom handle. It was nice & quiet, they never looked underneath. Of course, the first time he stood on it the steel wool came out the back in a ball of fire... Best not go back by that garage!Russ

Sorry,I missed the switch to 85 series. I don't know if the smaller tire in the taller profile would have a larger or smaller circumfrence. I don't have the load ratings of these tires available... A more aggressive tread pattern may cost you some on the MPG because of increased rolling resistance.

OK, first off I think you have a typo. I presume you mean MPG, not MPH. Your "overhead" console MPG is estimated for stock gear ratio & tire sizes. On my STOCK (signature) truck it is right on. Guys who change tire sizes or gear ratios often have a correction that can be appied to a programmer box. The overhead will not read right. You'll see notations that MPGs are "hand-calculated" & that is why. The CTD has plenty of power, even as stock. A programmer can improve it some (if you keep your foot out of it) & have it set for best mileage. Now as to changing the tire size, a 245 is a smaller (shorter tire, smaller circumfrence) will turn more RPMs to go the same distance. It would give the effect of a slightly lower gear ratio. That is going the wrong way, you need a taller tire (larger circumfrence) to go further per rovolution. HOWEVER, the overhead will not recogonize the change in tire size, although you will physically be going further. You could figure out the correction mathmetically and then do the MPG math. You don't state your gear ratio or the MPGs you are getting. It's helpful if you describe your truck in the signature space under "my profile". Before the days of electronic speedometers, we used to change the speedometer drive gears in the tranny... gosh do I feel old. I last did that on an 84 GMC that came with 3.08 ratio... horrible to drive... my buddy put in the most reduction we could put in that housing. 3.55 I think. Russ

I don't know which year they started to do this but you can get some codes in the odometer window by turning the key to on (not start) back to off 3 times... stop with it "on". Any codes will flash in that window. The LP (Lift Pump) should run for a second to pressurize the lines when the key is turned on. The LP must keep a minimum of 10 psi to the IP (Injector Pump) when running. The IP is Fuel lubricatated... Not enough fuel pressure often precipitates failure of the VP44 IP. DO NOT try to start if you don't have fuel to the IP. I hope it's not too late already.It would be a help if you described your truck in the signature space in the user control panel section. Russ

With the information in my previous posts... The "headlight" is not just the "bulb" but the whole bulb / lens / reflector system with matched components. Working with OEM reflectors / lenses the best is the most powerful bulb of the OEM type. I'd physically compare OEM style with aftermarket in reguard to the position of the fiment within the lens. Really this is just orientation & depth of the bulb. What I don't know is if aftermarket lens / reflector assemblies were designed for OEM style bulbs or aftermarket HID type bulbs. These must be matched somehow... either bought in matched sets or given specifications for the bulb purchase. Before I invested my hard earned dollars, I'd be wanting to know some answers.Russ

I've been doing a lot of reading on headlight bulbs & found the following article useful. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp The tech info is fairly well down in the article. I'm wondering if ADVERTIZERS are using correct terminology / descriptions. Ads are very confusing. Some exerps: "Automotive HID lamps are commonly called 'xenon headlamps', though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas.... All HID headlamps worldwide presently use the standardised AC-operated bulbs and ballasts..." "The average service life of an HID lamp is 2000 hours, compared to between 450 and 1000 hours for a halogen lamp" "Scientific study of headlamp glare has shown that for any given intensity level, the light from HID headlamps is 40% more glaring than the light from tungsten-halogen headlamps." "The arc light source in an HID headlamp is fundamentally different in size, shape, orientation, and luminosity distribution compared to the filament light source used in tungsten-halogen headlamps. For that reason, HID-specific optics are used to collect and distribute the light. HID burners cannot effectively or safely be installed in optics designed to take filament bulbs; doing so results in improperly-focused beam patterns and excessive glare, and is therefore illegal in almost all countries."