flagmanruss

I've been doing this for years... because it works...

Easy... I use the same type arbor that's made for the cut off disc... I cut a couple of circles out of a Scotch pad... these might be a bit big at 2". I usually use 2 thicknesses. Poke the little screw through the approximate center with a washer on either side... It wears itself round so don't worry if not exact. I use them until they are the size of a nickel. See the reddish ones I took off... worn so they were to the washers...

Mixed news... the alcohol removed a bit of corrosion from the circuit board... changing Q tips often & evaporates cleanly. The alcohol & peroxide didn't do anything visible where the mini-spade lug had corroded until it broke. The vinegar did dissolve the big lump but even with a fine wire brush & scotch pads, it's just not getting into the base layer. I was able to gently pop the switch out of the panel which gives better access from all sides.. I have plenty of Hoppes... I'll give that a try... nothing to lose. I sometimes use a circle of scotch pads on an arbor in my Dremel & that's next. Once I get a surface to solder to, I'll solder on a pigtail that I can splice to. The good news is I used a heavy test lead (from my days in the Electronics Shop) & jumpered power up from the fuse panel under the sink & the switch works & the water pump runs as I knew it would but proves this is the only problem.

I bought several bulbs as samples off ebay for interior fixtures in my trailer... they throw a whiter light but all seem to be less bright & wife doesn't like them. I have moved them to secondary locations & still use filament bulbs in primary working fixtures. There seems to be no standards for these lights. Buyer beware. The advertising does not typically give lumens... guess why? Look at the Share your RV Mods thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4577-share-your-rv-mods/ my LED info & others is in there. I have replaced the running lights on my project utility trailer with LED units... I'd say for running lights, buy the assembled / sealed units with DOT rating & you know they'll be bright enough.

I found the wiring problem on the water system. I removed the little wall panel & found the power (always on) to the mini-rocker switch was a mass of green verdgis & broke off, probably when I tried to remove the panel. Replacing the switch would make the problem bigger. I'd like to move on to other projects. I used to use alcohol on a Q tip to remove salt residue from circuit boards at the electronics shop... but nothing like this. I'm thinking vinegar on a Q tip or maybe peroxide. I couldn't free the other wire & quit rather than break it. My thought is to solder a few inches of wire to the switch & then splice the wire with room to work. I paid a ridiculous amount to have a rubber roof put on this old camper... hopefully closing in on the leaks. I found rot under the entrance door... the step is not supported on one side. Can't afford to buy another... Any suggestions for removing the verdigris?

I already had a fabricator install new spring perches on the front axle. Dodge does not offer the parts... expect you to install a new axle housing. WTF?

I dropped in to see how work was progressing. My truck is on their secondary lift... rear calipers were seized & have now been replaced, & new rear dics. The right side U bolts are (cut) off, they have the new U bolts & bottom plates (both sides). But the spacer blocks are worn, & locating holes oval & not useable. OEM are on factory back order, so trying to source elsewhere. The way these bottom plates are made... a stamping with cups... great places to hold water & salt. When I did the restoration on the C30... there was an epoxie we poured into the doors seams... something like that would keep the salt & water out. This is the time to do it.

After a winter of only occasional use... my truck is in the shop. On my list is check all wheels for brake drag. Both my rear calipers were seized. SOooo new rear discs & rebuilt calipers on there now. Other work progressing at a snails pace. Hung up for parts...

I love my Cummins but honestly, for your occasional use towing, I'd go gas. I towed before with a '79 C30 Chevy with a built 454... 11mpg but would tow a house down the road. (That's 11 towing or empty, didn't matter). But frankly it wasn't a daily driver... only used for towing. It got me ( my horses gooseneck trailer & camper 5th wheel) everywhere I needed to go. I have 4:10s & it's unnecessary & wastes a lot of fuel. I consider the ratio a mistake on my part. Costs me 1-2 mpg over stock ratio. Pay attention to the transmission... the extra speeds in the transmission are where (in my opinion) the better mpg comes from.

They just make 'em cheap & push 'em out the door. They are not working through these hatches. They only see how cheap they can make them... an extra fitting would just raise costs from their point of view.

Went out front & couldn't find the square bit driver to remove the water system panel. My idea is to remove this panel from the wall, hopefully... write down the color codes to the wires then try looking through the cabinette with drawers out to see the colors that come out... Try locating at the fuse panel. Wouldn't hurt to get the colors at the water pump too but that was just black & white (I think)... before they disappeared into the wall. Most of all, I wish there was a bigger hatch on the outside. I don't know why RVs are wired directly into the circuits but boats have a watertight bulkhead connector (so the heavy cord would not be in the way when working through this hatch.

Ooops! I was looking a E rated... before I saw these. KNEW it was too good to be true!

Man am I bummed out! I just saw these Wrangler ATS... really like the tread design as an All Season/some snow... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-Wrangler-AT-S-Tire-P265-70R17-113S/2367880 But they don't have them in 16's to fit my truck. These are a steal at this price.

I've been meaning to get back to look at this. I can't afford to send it out so it's fix it or live with it... can't live w/o water system. SOooo, I drove my car out to it, to save my legs. Chased the hornets away & got the lid up on the battery back in front (between the front wall & the propane). Shut off the main switch in the combo panel under the sink... It did shut off the power tester in the outlet. Pulled the plug on the shore power, just to be sure. PITA to work on but the 3 RV batteries (3 years old) look like new & have 13+ volts. False lead. I tested power on the AC breaker / DC fuse panel under the sink. 13+ volts. Power through all the fuses on the exposed contacts. Access really stinks... the panel itself can be unscrewed & slid out but can't trust any labels there are. The water system / holding tank panel on the outside kitchen wall includes a battery power indicator... stupid colored LEDs. The battery power indicator is "red", what ever that means. (This panel must have both power & ground or the indicators would not function. The water system indicator does not come on. Pump does not run. I'm guessing the wires are some which emerge on the outside wall barely accessible at all through the power cord hatch. We spray foamed the holes in the outside wall low down & eventually rid ourselves of mice. Water pump / pressure switch/fuse is accessed through the power cord hatch... wires disappear into the wall. Separated from the other wires by the hatch & 3 feet of wall. I am trying to think this thing through... Next step (I think) is to pull the water system, panel & use jumper wires to the main panel to test. My thought is a bad connection... either the power feed or ground. All the wire connections are like a wire nut, twisted on, then crimped. Can't get a test probe in them. I had wrong tools. Wiring tools next time.

I'm liking the tread design on Nito Teragrapplers & Goodyear Wrangler Adventure "AT" vs Armortrac. Realistically I'm on road but sometimes the rural roads leave a lot to be desired in terms of snow removal.

My stock system rotted out. First the tailpipe & then the back of the muffler. I was annoyed. My 89 GMC had a stainless exhaust. I bought a 4" SS kit off ebay (seller markoidaho) back in 07. Choice of SS grades, I chose the cheaper. This was a price buy. I included a "muffler" option (a straight through 4" glass pack). I later added a 36" FTE SS spiral resonator as forward as possible. The resonator made a big difference in the drone when hauling heavy... wife didn't need ear plugs anymore, not that she was listening to me anyway. 4" was the smallest offered from this source. I'm still running the stock turbo & the kit necks down to connect. I'd buy the FTE resonator the first time. I don't know that the straight through did anything at all, except if you have a prick for a inspector to say "see I have a muffler". I am not going to replace this system in my life time. Worth every penny.

My opinion has flip flopped again... and I couldn't really see under the axle to access those parts (& my photo was pitch black & of no use). Although the top is the part which has moved, I'm back to thinking the bottom plate "must have" failed because the top plate seems to be all there... so the bottom failed, the nuts pulling up into the plate thereby loosening the U bolts allowing them to jump the groove. Yes, we are replacing plates & U bolts on both sides. Yes, good old New England road salt. Lucky I limped home without losing the rear axle.

Yup, that's what the Shop told me. I don't see how the axle could "come out" completely since it was still captive (U bolt over the spring) but I imagine under power the axle could walk forward & back. sort of a vargue "alignment". OK, got some pictures during visitation today> Right, Passenger's side (Oh, crap! What's holding the axle in?) Sorry the underside picture didn't come out. Left, Driver's side (What it's supposed to look like)

I stopped by to drop off paint & undercoater for the new parts... my truck was outside waiting for parts. I stuck my head in the Right Rear wheel well, over the tire. I expected the failed plate was on the bottom. It was NOT, it was on the top, over the spring. I suspect there was a stamped lip there... which is now gone. The top of the front U bolt has shifted forward a couple of inches! Surprise!

My AC is also out... had a shop look at it. Got orifice to unplug by going back & forth but only lasted a couple of days. That's on the to do list. Beyond the present shop... Oh, joy!

I am checking out your choices... I don't know if I'm going to get by inspection this time. Not much worried in summer... would like new skins going into the winter. I'm on road for all practical purposes... I'm thinking an All Season AT type. The Michelins wore good until mechanical trouble finished them off. My choice would be a similar but slightly more open tread. See if I can afford E rated tires.

I appreciate the offer... kind of far & my frame itself seems good. It's just the components hung on it... I'm getting the worn tie rod ends replaced too... before the alignment. The TR adjuster sleeve is in pretty poor condition. My plan is to be more aggressive about repairs & not waiting until they are "very bad". Registration, Taxes & Insurance are high here... but I pay it so I can have some recreation. A cheap 1/2 ton will not tow a 30' camper (not legally or safely anyway). So I have to get in or get out.

Yes, it is a rust problem, like the front spring cups. Rear axle is reportedly moving & not in a good way. I'll be stopping by tomorrow for visitation. Shop owner understands that I need this to be safe & dependable. I just hope I have some nuts left when I get it back.

I just talked to the shop. The front problem is still pretty much as it was a year ago... there is a problem with the Right side rear spring perch & U bolts... basically shot. Tom gets the Prize! I may need tires to get it inspected... He didn't like the look of the tires... we'll see.

I wondered if the repair to the spring seats had damaged/stressed something else which subsequently failed. I'm also waiting to hear how bad my news is!