flagmanruss

I would definitely solder them. I've been using lots of 50A Andersons for the LiFePO4 battery packs for my mobility scooters. I solder and then heat shrink or use liquid tape. I'd use the liquid tape after soldering for this application.

Caspers asked for a photo of the plug... not a great help. I was hoping they could confirm the correct connectors.

I've seen "MPG chips" advertised which only plug into the IAT on the vehicle... essentially an expensive resistor. I easily built an IAT fooler for my 01.5 CTD. Why not for other vehicles? If IAT is so critical (getting the onboard computer to lean out the mix) why not alter the vehicle's intake from a CAI (my 97 Cirrus intake snorkel pokes through the radiator support frame.) A simple alteration / baffle would have it sucking underhood air. Or go to an ITA fooler harness like the Cummins. This is my daily driver & gets decent MPG in good weather but loses excessive miles in cold weather. I have emailed Caspers again for an extension harness to start from for an IAT Fooler... I'd start with the same resistor as Cummins & think it would be close.

Fleet customers could buy things not available to the general public. One such was a utility owned single rear wheel 3500... I forget the year.

He got the drive chain off... can't fix transmission in place (Duhh) so have begun the process to pull engine/transmission as a unit. Sounds like fun!

Bad karma when you have to tow it home!! Good luck on your trip.

I strongly agree. At one time I had my tower under my desk & it choked with dust & lint. I had to disassemble (unplug everything & open the case) power off of course, clean with alcohol, Q tips, tooth brushes & air. And relocated it to the top of the desk. My wife's brother has cooked a number of laptops & refuses to shut them off when not needed for long periods & ventilate underneath. Harder to do with laptops but power down, remove battery, open every access & remove dust & lint. Oh, well, he can afford to replace them.

Think about this design for an instant. The cast in guides in the damper are a loose fit... the steel shaft has only a small bump, barely enough to hold by jamming against the cast iron. But there's a spring load holding the bump jammed. Then, we fire it up red hot like a blacksmith's forge... enough to soften the steel shaft, the spring load draws the shaft towards it, compressing the bump (exactly what mine did). Then the spring no longer holds the shaft from turning, because the shaft moved enough to unload the spring. A skilled metal worker would make that "bump" bigger and the engaging surfaces would not be a ramp/wedge shape. WHAT? The bump would be bigger & the engaging surfaces would be vertical at that point, not a ramp... so there would not be a bending force. _I L --- It should last "forever". I want to run this by my blacksmith / welder.

About all casting is done overseas now, in this case China. The dampers are dirt cheap but don't last. I did a bunch of searching & found a few others who have the same problem... their conclusion is that the shaft is barely big enough & poor material which wears quickly, allowing it to fail. The question is what tools I have to work with to self construct a shaft. One option is to have my blacksmith make a copy out of good carbon steel or even SS. An option is to go to a larger shaft & drill & tap a bolt to do the turning. Some of the posters have reached in & welded a new steel damper solving the problem... if the pipe fails, it will have to be done again.

Damper is in the vertical pipe... only (1) 3' vertical section right above the stove, elbow, (4) nearly horizontal sections to the thimble. Masonry chimney outside above the peak of the roof.

I already bought replacement dampers. Guys, my concern is that the dampers are failing during a single heating season & we only use the wood as a booster! I'm only burning 3 cord a year. I still have last year's in my scrap metal bin! I don't want to have an emergency caused by a faulty damper... (did last year when the damper closed itself & did not respond to moving the handle... backed smoke up into the basement! Had to ventilate in freezing weather.) Like I said... the shaft has a smooth bent bump which engages the cast damper plate. The shaft is under spring pressure constantly... when the shaft gets hot, is it bending? Allowing it to slide under spring pressure. I want to run this by my blacksmith & resident metallurgist.

OK, all you wood burners out there, WTF is going on here. Wood store is an antique 1890-1910 King circulator an oval upright barrel of red Russian iron (so called) with cast iron top, bottom, door. Our pipe goes up one (3') section of 6" pipe & elbows to the left for 4 sections (all riveted together) where it goes into a masonry chimney through a round liner thimble. Last year, the dampers stripped out so the handle would spin but the damper plate was jammed closed. This year, my wife complained about my closing down the dampers but since she's lugging wood & tending the fire (I have trouble with my legs on the stairs so if she wants to be in charge so be it!). I haven't even gone down stairs or if I did, I put the dampers back as I found them. What I've found is the bump in the damper handle is now in the groove, instead of up against it, locking it. Sooo the handle is in too deep, the springs have no tension against the pipe & the damper moves when it feels like it. WTF!! At least this year the handle is moving with the damper... We're now parking old horse shoes as weights to bind the handle so it doesn't self adjust. This is just crazy. My only thought is the cheap China steel (recycled WW2 bombs?) is bending under the heat of the fire allowing the parts to slip out of position. How do we stop this from happening?

The latest reports are that the engine data system was turned off first, some time before the last radio check in call. After the call, the radar transponder was turned off and then the plane changed course.. These are deliberate acts. Even though the engine data system was turned off, the satellite still pinged it getting a response for several additional hours which it would not have if it was crashed (although it might f it had landed somewhere). The satellites weren't intended for direction finding but triangulating satellites can still give some location data. Who ever was flying the plane had pilot skills but apparently didn't know the engine system still answered pings when shut off. Radar is Radio waves, going out & returning. Radio waves are line of sight pretty much (though could bounces are an exception but random & unpredictable). Low waves bend more than High like VHF. Due to the curvature of the earth, live of sight is broken. At ground level it might be 5 miles... but every foot of elevation adds a mile of range if you have the power. This is why boats & ships locate antennas as high as practical. It appears this airplane descended to get below radar range & charged a course away from land & possible receivers. Being a night flight, satellites probably did not see much. Maybe thermal scans? Do they do that? This is very mystifying... if only because I fail to see the motivation. This is costing a whole lot of countries a whole lot of money.

I have & occasionally use an external hard drive... plugs into USB. A couple of clicks & step back & all your files get copied to the external "hard drive". Most are electronic these days. Mine is a Western Digital... came from Staples for about $100.

I'm not a great carpenter... it's been a long time... others with more skill won't hurt my feelings. It may be that the motor mount on your cheap saw is flexing or more likely the direct drive unit is has some end play in the motor Sooo the blade can walk sideways. I had a cheap table saw... when a real carpenter built a barn for me... or his school class did. Actually he was a teacher but ran a construction business on the side & summers building million dollar houses. He went out & put the most expensive carbide saw blade on that saw... was so sharp that it cut very well & made the most of the cheap saw. I paid for the blade & he left to to me. I was amazed. I kept a similar cheap saw in my install van... because I could take it on the road where a better saw would be too big & heavy. When you set the fence, use a good rule & measure from the fence to the nearest tooth on the saw... rotate the blade (unplug the thing!) by hand & measure both feed & exit sides. A little run out can make you crazy. I never messed wit dao blades. My Dad... his father was a millwright & cabinet maker... made parallel cuts & took them out with a chisel. You could hog out where the daos are to go with your carbide & then use the dao to finish. Today, many folks would do the same job with a router.

What aprox size chain do you think this is? He needs this toll but is resisting buying it (cheap) because his boss is an *** hat about reimbursing. I have always bought tools to use on the job... and put my name on them. When I left, so did my tools.

My brother used a wire & got the links disconnected. There were 2 chains. As he put it, sometime in it's history somebody put the chain pins in backwards so pulling the cotter pins was a lot of fun.

Boing!! That's funny. Glad you weren't standing over it.

https://www.facebook.com/stephen.boothroyd.9/media_set?set=a.593356267390759.1073741829.100001491737749&type=1 I found the tool, finally, on Amazon. I like the wire idea. Thanks guys.

My brother is under his train engine trying to disconnect the drive chain so he can service the gear box. I'm thinking he needs to relieve tension on the link he's trying to pull. Ideas? Is there a tool? He has photos on FB. Appears to be some curve to the chain (slack) but I can't copy the pictures. Plymouth DDT narrow gauge switcher, 6-71 power.

I'm no brake expert... but isn't there a common shared rubber flex line between the chaise & rear axle? I've had rubber lines fail internally, delaminating & acting as a one way valve. Since this is a common part to both rear brakes, it ought to be inspected. If you have the rear discs like my 01.5 and later, the parking brakes have their own set of drums inside.

Yeah, I'd need to put on the bent rim from when I hit a hunk of firewood that fell of a truck in front of me. Pretty much need a busted rim to get reimbursed. And the car's been in the shop 3 separate times. The shop must know my phone by heart now! Our winters are usually pretty moderate... above freezing days & below nights but some years NOT. We hated these winters at the boat yard... much more damaging to the docks. Anyrate, there's no hot asphalt because all the processors are closed until spring. They're putting cold patch in which lasts until the next storm.

I've had the pot hole damage fixed in the front where I bottomed it... a few days ago, I started hearing a thump/bang on some bumps but not all. Eventually I eliminated all my scooter / walker parts & decided it coincided with the rear wheels. It sounded like the right rear. I took it by the wheel & brake shop yesterday, they/I looked at it, dropped it off last night. The rear link that keeps the axle under the car... the mounting bracket was broken in half, on the frame. Pot hole problem with auto damage is all over the news... it's like playing dodge 'em. Actually if you break a wheel or become disabled in the pot hole, the state or city will pay for the repairs... otherwise you are SOL. (**** Outta Luck!) Hopefully, I'll get the car back Friday.

We usually clean the stack once a year unless it needs more... 3 story masonry chimney on the outside of the house... brick section through the wall with a round thimble. We have 6 sections of steel pipe inside the house. We take the steel pipe down... monthly. Horizontal sections are riveted together. Thimble in one end, a support wire half way, elbow over the stove. We bang on the pipe, tip it into a coal bucket, half fills it each time. The thimble is the coldest part & we push the big flakes out into the chimney with a stick.

Interesting... Snowdogg does not recommend any of it's lighter duty plows for diesel trucks.