flagmanruss

There's a lot of rumor with few facts except a lot of injured animals. Still, with hunting season upon us, it would be really foolish to knowingly allow dogs to run. I'm not a believer in coincidences... my instinct tells me this is not a coincidence yet we don't know the cause... yet! people will talk & the truth will come out. When I was a relatively new driver, a guy I knew... about the most meek person I knew... hit a good sized dog. The dog ran out from behind a parked car just as he was passing. It totaled the car. Deer strikes with ordinary passenger cars often does serious damage or even totals them. I expect that the vehicle damage will reveal the persons responsible. Heck, I was worried about hitting a loose wheel cover...

A year or so ago... we came into sight of an 18 wheeler... a minute or so later the outside dual the Right Rear on the trailer blew. We still had safe distance & room to my left so I gave him all the space I could. It looked like the a tornado of debris following the truck. I wanted no parts of it.

Since the batteries are in parallel... the alternator could be sensing the shorted battery & be trying to charge it up... But both batteries are connected so both are getting the charge but the shorted battery isn't taking it. Batteries should be replaced in pairs anyway.

The batteries are wired weird, positive connection off one battery , negative connection off the other battery... but the batteries are NOT series, they are wired in parallel. + to +, - to -. Series would give you 24 volts! I think disconnecting both batteries & letting them sit overnight will help in sorting out the issues. Since the batteries are in parallel, both should be the same voltage. The fact they are not, tells a story. I've seen a shorted battery... it was too hot to touch & we cut the cables to get it out of the car. The battery sat & smoked for 3 days outside the shop. (It was my brother's car.) When it cooled it was dead as a brick.

Having loaded the floor jack & everything but the kitchen sink... I started on my road trip as the light rain turned to snow at my house. As I was hoping I drove West under the rapid East bound storm. Roads were mostly dry... no significant slow downs. Made the trip right on the GPS predictions after deducting my necessary pit stops. There was one interesting experience on the Mass Tpk worth sharing... I was in the right lane with traffic to my left. I was following a mini-van when it seemed something white crossed my lane from left to right... very strange. The next thing I know, guy in front is pulling onto the shoulder. Nice stop actually, didn't take too long to free my lane... sort of. I noted that the MV had blown the Left front tire. At about the same instant... His wheel cover was rolling down the highway in front of me! I had no where to go... It kept rolling a surprisingly long ways... before banking right gracefully in front of me... Moma brace for impact... Let's just say he will not be putting that wheel cover back on his car! I heard it hit my tires... but there was no where to pull over & the tires were still up. I proceeded with caution until the next rest area where I could find no damage to tires or body. WHEW!!

If I didn't work smarter... I'd be unable to accomplish anything at all.

OK, then you'll enjoy how I got it into the Cirrus! I had the jack in the mud room down stairs. I figured it was dumb to put the jack back out on driveway level 10" down. I backed the car up near the mud room door. Laid a carpet over the trunk edge & bumper, rested the end of a plank on the bumper, the other end in the mud room. I could lift either end of the jack but probably not both at once & my back is hurting these days... So I lifted the jack onto the planks & rolled it into the trunk slicker than snot! (Can I say that here or do I have to report my own post?) One over sight was the spare tire cover is pretty flimsy but I have a couple of 12" x 36" hunks of 1/2" plywood in the truck, shifted them over. Done! Now with a big heavy vise in there & assorted other tools, and my walker... it's pretty full. Most of the heavy stuff is over the rear axle...

I can't see how the handle is supposed to come out of the socket. I'm giving it to my brother & the handle needs to come out for transport as I'm taking my car. It's an inexpensive "Black Jack" 3T service jack. There's 'something' protruding at the handle sock. I couldn't feel any flats/points like a bolt/. There a stud protruding from the bottom with a cotter pin. I came inside to use the head & it's raining outside the door where I parked it. I'm guessing when the cotter pin is removed, maybe it'll slide up & out but it's been together quite a while... I tried looking for the manual but not happening. I get card games when I Google it. EDIT: Got It! It's about to get dark... I looked out & decided I couldn't afford to wait until tomorrow. The shower had mostly past, but now everything was soaked. I dragged it up 2 steps into the mud room. Go ahead & rain! It's tough (with my MS) to work on things on the floor, lest I not be able to get back up. Oh, yeah, wife's away, as in out of the country. I placed a stool to kneel over so I'd not end up flat on the floor. I got a flash light & my reading glasses. I could see the handle turning in the socket... that's good! I pulled the cotter pin but it did nothing. I could now see the protruding 'something' was a very lightly knurled knob. Vise grips to break the knob loose. The handle lifts out. There's a groove around the base of the handle that engages the knurled knob. I decided I liked the jack with the platform up one pump which gives a good handle to grab. Job done! Next job will be to wrassle it into the car somewhere with a low lift height.

I wonder if there's a vibration... something that needs to cushion mounted.

Local WM has mostly empty shelves... & what they have is unusual calibers though someone might want it once hunting season opens up. I have to check the local gun shops to see if they have any. These days, it's probably unwise to carry handloads. Fortunately for me, when I did that no one caught on. I have some original SuperVels in 38 & 357. My house gun, 4"HB M66 has my PD issued ammo... Silvertips. I have a decent supply of 22LR... that's what I use the most of these days. & black powder for blank cannon cartridges (They're made up in aluminum foil over a form, in case you've never done it.)

I built my own IAT fooler out of parts following the discussion here. Thanks guys! But I had to source the pile of parts, solder them up, insulate the joints, harness everything before I could install. And this's just the IAT part. It works like a charm. Having a kit will be preferable by far & will open this upgrade to many more people.A lot of time & effort planning the build.Fair amount of time sourcing components, ordering, sending back, getting right parts, trips to Radio Shack.A lot of time & effort doing the build.A PITA getting to the plug on the back of the engine.Finding an open grommet & running the wires wasn't too bad.Drilling a hole in a perfectly good dash... scary!

We're thinking that we're manipulating the release wrong, not getting full travel. We are thinking that both the front & back of the release must be up in order for tongue to move far enough back. In any event, I'm going to be backing a pry bar in the future. LOL!! The trailer is not home... in the shop getting a new rubber roof... so I can't access it until it's done.

I had mine installed. It's more than 1/8" but is pretty tight. The shop put the torch to the mounts to bend them to fit.

At one point I had screened all my vehicles air intakes with malleable gutter guard mesh. A few self drilling screws. The Dodge cowel drains (where the cabin air enters in front of the windshield) are located behind the hood hinges. I stuffed behind the hinges with SS Steel wool (pot scrubber) and no more mice in the heater either. I found the corrugated air cleaner hose on my 79 Chevy C30 plugged with paper towels... the mice had dragged from the horse trailer we were packing for a trip... blew black smoke like a steam locomotive under load. (Funny it ran fine empty... not enough air for 454 power). I screened my JD410, wife's Subaru, 97 Cirrus. My neighbor lost the heater motor in his wife's new Saturn... to a mouse nest. I screened that after the dealer tagged him ("warrantee does not cover rodent damage") $800. At the same time we found his air cleaner box nearly full of acorns. Both their cars! More gutter guard.

I've seen them fail on small block GM (gas) marine engines rather frequently.

I have the home made IAT fooler on a switch on my knee panel. In cold weather, I don't like how the truck starts w/o the grid heaters, so I leave the IAT fooler off, until the engine starts & then turn the IAT fooler on. In either case, I think the IAT is worth about 1 mpg. I intended to test other resistors than the 143* one of the initial set up but never got back to it. I also have a Quadzilla. I generally leave it in the +30hp/econo mode. I get crisper shifts & is much more drivable this way. This is worth about another 1 mpg. I intended to try out other tunes for the +65hp mode but it ran good with the original tune now with Quadzilla out of business, I decided to not monkey with a going machine. It is just enough to pull hills with my ToyHauler on without excessive down shifting. As far as I know, I don't have high idle enabled. I've never had a reflash. That's it.*Note my sig... I have 4.10 gears

Oh, you mean that nifty mouse habitat. Make them critters comfy so they can chew your wires & filters. In the end, I ripped it out. I miss the insulation on the cowel area as it made the cab louder (wife wears eat buds anyway). Hood insulation, is no issue.

I don't know, I made my own alloy in a bottom pour, 100# smelter on a big freight balance scale. I made 47# of wheel weight alloy (modern ww's can vary). Then added tin & antimony to make 50#. I made ingot molds out of channel iron & welded on angled end plates. This makes Lyman #2 alloy which makes nice hard pistol bullets.I had a deal with several tire stores to buy their scrap wheel weights at scrap prices. They liked that I used a bathroom scale to weight the scrap & pair correctly. If a place loaded the scrap with ball joints & tie rod ends more than once, I checked their scrap or stopped buying from them. Trying to melt rubber really stinks up the shop. Seemed like some always got by me but I always dumped them out on the floor & strained the everything I could find.

When you see the rest area sign, ask her if she needs to stop! Every time.

It's narrow gauge of course... This cab is hotter than the diesel... Unfortunately 100 year old "Cricket" needs repairs also & is off line. The right way to fix a seized bearing is to take it out... Do what ever it takes to get the bearing off the shaft. Heat. Press. What he needs is a way to free the gear in place.

This is unfortunately a wing & a prayer operation. Boss is a GDCB. Power is 1956 6-71TC is TCD535 AllisonTrans is TC455 AllisonMy bro had to lay temp track to get the engine into another bay with an overhead trolley. He's had to strip off the front cowl & the cab to get to the transmission which lies under the firewall. He's gotten the top cover off in place. From what he tells me, the moving gear for reverse isn't... possibly seized to the shaft? The fork has been removed for access. He's been soaking it with penetrant. He wants to get a bar in there to try to free it??? Ideas?

The AD came with an extension harness. It seems the pump your are looking at plans to install in the OEM location & the kit includes a bracket & fittings. I believe closer to the tank is better but would need for you to make/obtain different fittings & an extension harness. I would inquire from your dealer since they've undoubtedly done this before. You should not need a draw straw or drop the tank if you have the on engine lift pump. (And not the Dodge retrofit in tank pump which is equally troublesome.)

the AirDog mount is a plate on both sides of the frame which the LP mounts to. The AD mount for the long bed is lengthwise inside the frame rail. A short bed bracket used to be available but is now discontinued. An earlier thread: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5568-Made-my-own-shortbed-bracket-for-my-AD150?highlight=airdog+bracket

I bought a AirDog pump which came with brackets to mount to the frame without drilling (I gather a no-no). Mounted easily & works fine. I'd inquire where you buy your LP about brackets... might even come with. Even the OEM lift pump is improved (not enough in my view) by relocating it closer to the tank & some here have done just that.

I've seen old hoses fail internally. Had one on my 83?? Fird Ranger with 2.2 Diesel. Lower hose separated & innards obstructed coolant flow while exterior looked normal. It was hard to feel in that location.