flagmanruss

The Accent has got a new cabin air filter in now... She watched & learned... release glove box so it can drop forward & it's behind a cover behind it. Need to protect the new filter before it gets mucked up again. She had Grand-kids today... can't work on it when it's in motion! I will try to get some pictures when I get into it.

I'll give it a try. At least I have a screened air inlet now. If I switch the box out, the screen will move with it. No screws into filter element! See the cracks in the filter box (now super glued)... by dealership.

Every vehicle / air duct cleaner is different... have to be creative at times.

I used aluminizied steel gutter guard to screen the intake to keep mice out. Because it is against the soft hood gasket, i covered the metal with tape.

I had to put OEM filter box back in... mice promptly moved in, trashed filter element. So today I screened the filter with aluminum expander metal & self drill / self tap screws Long ago I used SS pot scrubber behind the hood hinges... where the cowl drains are. Water drains just fine but mice can't get into the heater.

Job done. MTD with steel under the grill... barely peeking out at corners. (New front tires)

Thanks. That's how I thought it should be. Well hidden! I'll do more exploring. She keeps this roller skate in motion pretty much. More links I found... but wife's is a 2012, not 08 as pictured https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69OwfK11Y5I

Are you saying the top & bowl of the cowel unit are one piece? Yeah, I'm confused. I'm hoping the top (cover) will separate from the bowl. I don't want to break any of the plastics. I'm not desirous of opening the cowel box if not necessary but I can't seem to find the drain openings I need to screen from the engine bay.

It's not clear how the cowel comes appart. I can see a plastic retainer on each side (push rivet) but I don't see how to separate the cover. They must be separate pieces. It "must" be there. Once the cowel cover is open, probably an easy fix. http://www.hamanual.com/cowl_top_cover_repair_procedures-1202.html http://www.hyundai-forums.com/genesis-coupe/284193-cabin-air-filter-mice.html

Wife let Jiffy Lube check cabin air filter... charged a rediculous amount for one... bits of fast food napkin, wool yarn, and a purple plastic toy frog (the topic of discussion at JL) but now she knows where it is. When she got home, we went out. She fished through the cowel slots & got a bunch more fluff. I think the slots in the cowel need better screening but frankly, it's the cowel drains where they are likely getting in. I don't know where they are but it has to have them. We've looked from under the hood... (thankfully it seems to be blocked from the hood hinge area). In through the wheel well. In around the engine but pretty darn tight. Anybody know? The only idea idea I have is to pour a cup of water into each side of the cowel & see where it runs out. Pretty rough idea.

NAPA measured the belt & sold me a new belt. 4L640W Hope it works. I learned on my MTD... Mower & snow blower belts use standard V angles but to make belts proprietary they use different pulley widths. So you can measure them but many times, the seeming size won't work. Hate crap like this.

I washed everything before reassembly. Grill back in, hood on, can actually see the headlights (after washing the reflector). I spent some bucks to get better grade front tires installed on the wheels. $39 ea + 10 to install. I replaced the rear tires last fall. This MTD was a discount store model & one place they cheaped was the rubber. We've been dicking around with leaky tires too long. So one mower is back in operation.

Appreciate the pointer. She moved the tractor again... back to the barn (under cover... also further than I ought to walk. But I did. Couldn't find a builder's plate) 54" deck can only be 3 models, 25 hp limits it to 2554HV (97-02) Just found a link which says to look under the seat or under the left rear fender. Will send her to look tomorrow. PS they spell it SABRE, not saber

You certainly need to drop the blower & check it. Only 3 screws to hold the blower up, over the passenger's foot well. Mice can get into the duct through the cowel drains & plug up the works. The resistors stick up into the duct work where the air flow will cool them... close to the blower opening. While you have the blower down, check for nest debris. The cowel drains are located behind the hood hinges... I use some SS pot scrubber (SS Steel wool) pushed up behind the hinges & no more mice in the blower/duct. The water still drains from the cowel area just fine.

We got this Saber from her brother. It has a 54" deck. We'd spent a ton of $$ to get it operational again. (Since we had a second mower, I felt safe in working on the MTD. I was still working on getting the grill back on the MTD... {pictures to follow} And have the 2 dry rotted front tires off the MTD to be fixed) So the Saber stopped mowing. The belt TO the deck failed... broken & shredded. I'm not finding much info on the belt. Apparently some of these mowers were also sold under the Scott's brand. There a green logo of soome kind on the belt. I'm not getting a number. Really don't want to take it to a dealer. I haven't gotten a good look yet since my floor jack is holding up one side of the MTD. Any help here?

I have a tiny bit of seepage on the top of the tank... I don't fill up into the neck unless I'm on a trip... 8mpg is pretty piss poor. My 79 C30, 454, towing cam, Edlebrock intake, AFB, headers, huge truck mufflers, 3.73 axle, 16.5 tires... got 11 mpg. I thought 11 was bad. Twin fireball 20g saddle tanks... LOL! Towing or empty, did not matter. The AC mattered (when it had AC).. subtract 1 mpg.

Wife has recieved a Sabre by John Deere from her brother... just spent big bucks getting it fixed. Had been sitting in the yard covered with a tarp... mice had gotten in & ate wiring. The Saber is big, 25hp & has a huge 54" deck... mows fast... but can't get into tight places which we have a few. We'd talked about letting daughter dearest have the MTD but has kids & I ripped out NO mow in reverse safety switch (because there was a few places in the yard where backing up slightly was required) & pulley guards which are almost completely under the running boards (because they were jamming with sticks & woods debris)... all done years ago.

MTD lawn tractor… fatigued plastic grill FAILED. Sorry, should have taken before pictures with hood laying on the engine. What was she thinking? Result of brittle plastic, vibration... Broken mount piece… other side a bunch of shattered chips. Where Left mount used to be... Where Right mount used to be There was nothing to support the grill... Repaired grill with STEEL plate bolted underneath. Hopefully spread load enough that it'll stay together. [url=http://s122.photobucket.com/user/fleeting_cat/media/IMG_2638.jpg.html] (Use enough bolts?) Bolted it back on the tractor yesterday... Had to go to Lowe's as Home Depot didn't have 3" wide steel... couldn't find anything Suitable in my materials pile.

Our marina sent outboard work to the respective dealerships. However, outboards & I/Os were, in our opinion, a problem in the making. Wear on the output seals invariably leaked salt water into the lower gear case... especialy with the inevitable bit of monofilament. We did build a adaptor with the right threads... add an O ring... a quick connect... & a small manual pump to fill I/O gear cases from the bottom. Usually the bolts are stainless but the gear cases are aluminum... all suspended in salt water. I'd try vinegar to dissolve as much salt as possible. Hot water pressure is not a bad idea either. I liked to use anti sieze wear ever possible... but I avoided such things as much as possible.

I believe in giving credit where it is due! I would go to Diesel Auto Power were great & I'll not forget. I did mention I am a forum member here...

I want to thank everyone here for the support & advise while wife was broke down away from home. I needed to know what choices were to be made depending on the shop testing... so I could get parts shipped in quickly if needed. I got lucky & they were not needed but knowing what to do was a great comfort. I must thank DAP (Diesel Auto Power) for taking the time to assure me the VP44 Injection Pump they had IN STOCK was what I wanted with all upgraded parts & new computer. The price offered was actually quite low... Their site said $1439, over the phone, following up on my email... $1039 with a $400 core charge... and a 2 year warentee... They quoted $95 to overnight ship to the shop where my truck is. Thank you to the members here & to DAP... Russ

I need to add the R&D Auto did right by us. (Ask for Danny) 1015 Main Street Castleton, Vt 05735 (802) 468-5268 Considerable previously work at dealership They have Dodge Cummins of their own. Have seen aftermarket lift pumps & not thrown by them. Decent understanding of VP44 issues.

I've was running TCW3 (2 cycle oil) the time the OEM lift pump failed & still do. Maybe why, the VP44 has survived these incidents. At least she's adding the premeasured doses each fuel fill. (though it's calibrated on half tank top ups, not EMPTY, so should be doubled. I know she is because I get the empty oil bottles brought in for me to refill.

I was surprised to find new accessories from FASS... new pickup tubes... http://www.fassride.com/shop/accessories/suction-tube-kits.php http://www.fassride.com/shop/accessories/fuel-sump-kits.php

Shop just called. Truck is up & running. New filters. Problem is she ran it down on fuel... sucked air on a hill & down she went. How many frigging times must I tell her??? Maybe she'll listen to the mechanic. Fuel guages are not reliable. Sometimes they read off. She said it had 1/4 tank. Mechanic said 1/8th. I start looking for fuel at 1/2 tank... AAARRRGGGHHH!!!