flagmanruss

The LED tail lights I installed on this trailer last fall are "surface mount" on a angle iron bracket. Before I had to unhook the trailer they were working. The tail lights are not really combination side markers (though legally they should be. There's no working license plate light either as the plate is bolted the ramp after ripping off the low hanging plastic bracket when thetrailer was new.) I decided to add side markers with the turn flash feature... I will wire them in right at the tail lights splice. This will PROVE the power is getting there & make it much easier for me to check light function (considering my mobility difficulties). I'm planning on keeping this trailer for the foreseeable future. It was my hay trailer & already modded for that use. Tongue V added expanded metal platform (to unload hay) and relocated & extended the jack (so it didn't hit the gate) Enough reflective tape that if someone hits the black trailer in the dark, they did it on purpose! It's not usually in a place to get a good view ofthe front.

Tractor Supply is listed as a dealer for Fastway but when I called the local store he could find no listing for the item. I shopped around some & found other sellers were more expensive than a direct purchase from the mfg... plus shipping in all cases. I bought 3 for the 3 active trailers (omitting the horse trailer which will be For Sale as soon as we get it emptied out). I don't see that a cover can do any harm & might do some good. I do tuck the plug under what ever protection is available when not in use, but this is a very humid coastal area. I've found suggestions to clean with a vinegar solution (mild acid) followed by baking soda or "tuner cleaner". I don't see anything wrong with these approaches except they are caustic & leave the bare metal unprotected. I think a di-electric grease type treatment is needed to stop the re-oxidizing after cleaning... which has been my nemisis. A cover or other protection would serve to keep the weather out & the grease in. Maybe this is silly but I wondered about using a felt "battery washer" inside the cover to protect the terminals. Worth a try in any case. (88 cents for 2) I can't find what the chemical treatment id of the felt. Baking soda? If the plug is protected when not in use, I don't see how grit would collect in there.

I've used "tuner cleaner" which was originally intended to remove oxidation TV tuners. I don't like the stuff (tuner cleaner) because it seems the contacts oxidize again very quickly. Maybe the di electric grease or something like BreakFree CLP. I am thinking a product that would stay in place & reduce the oxidation. I'm Googling trailer connection cleaner now. Any more specific suggestions? BTW, china made 7 pin flat connectors don't fit in my truck socket. Good napa ones do. I can visually spot the ones that won't. The contacts extend noticeably to the side of the opening. PITA! I've been using a backup beeper in the 7 pin on the truck, so the cover has to be open. (Not as loud as I'd like but better than nothing.) additional: I've spotted covers for the trailer side of the plug http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/shop/7-pin-plug-cover/ Probably an annoyance for trailers in frequent use, I think this would be useful protection for the trailer that gets infrequent use... Certainly not a total solution but an assist?

When ever I go to hook up, I have to wiggle the plug all around in the socket. Usually I get continuity... eventually... but sometimes not even after vigorius wiggling. I think it's just oxidation. Over the years I've tried various things like emory on a tiny file, bagging the plug between uses, etc. Has anybody found a solution? Maybe dielectric grease? I took the landscapers trailer out yesterday. Put new LED tail lights on last fall. And one side refused to work. I went out with a meter & now it's on. WTF? I'm guessing that all my wiggling PLUS the road vibration, finially broke through the oxidation. I have one bulb marker light yet to get going.

Why not drop a real 12V into your build? Plenty of engines on the used market.

Years ago, I added a Flexolite fan... actual fan assembly... to a 84 GMC I was towing with. The clutch was disguarded & the fan flexed flatter at high speeds. They are still made but I don't believe they are offered for the Cummins. The dual electrics are not recommended for towing

OK, here's the original discussion I was thinking of. It was under 12 valve. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5211-6bt-12-valve-marine-pistons/ Remember, in "running hot" Marine applications are sea water cooled... an unlimited supply of cold water without worrying about temperature build up. Often water cooled exhaust manifilds are used to preheat cooling water before it enters the block... hot water flows from the block & over board typically through the risers & a wet exhaust. If a dry stack is used (most often in a commercial application) the hot water will just be discharged overboard. Now I will sit down & let those with hands on experience share their wisdom.

Fan motor... drop it to check for leaves & critters. Fan resistor block... flollow the power wire back from the motor... extends up into the heater duct & can get clogged with mouse nest... blocks air flow & causes resistors to fail.

I must suggest you do very careful research before using marine pistons. Some time ago we had a member who used marine pistons on his build & ran into troubles. As I recall... and with my MS I don't claim a great memory... the problem was the relationship of the fuel cup on the marine piston & the non-marine injector spray pattern. There are not the selection of special parts for the marine piston based engine. Hopefully someone else can point you to the thread or have direct knowledge of the final solution.

Whoa! I think you made a typo. "Lift Pump" refers to to "fuel pump" originally mounted on the block... often replaced with improved lift pumps between the tank & the engine (or less well withthe Dodge fix of an intank pump). The VP44 is correctly called an injection pump. The tone wheel is a part inside of the VP44 IP. The parts of the injection pump are interesting but out of sight as Injection Pumps should not be disassembled in the field & require an expensive test bench to calibrate on reassembly. Mike has a junk pump disassembled for educational purposes...

Good, we're getting some clarity now. Next question is the interaction of the crank position indicator with the injection signal.

Just to be clear, theres the computer built into the VP44 and there's the ECM (Engine Control Module). There's nothing to indicate that the Special X modifies either the VP44 or ECM software (unless you're running an additional box or programer). I believe the changes are strictly mechanical. Again, my impression is the total advance is controled by the structural limits of the VP44 housing... whether electrically controlled or mechanically. But doing so mechanically begins the advance as soon as it starts. Remember the VP44 (as issued) is a smog control Injection Pump! To reduce smog, timing is normally retarded. What a tuner or programer (or in this case a modified IP) does is advance the timing, which gives slightly more power than stock. I can test this my swiching my XZT between OFF (stock) & Econo modes (+15 hp). The +30 mode adds fuel sooner although within the max fuel rating of the stock VP44.

Load Range E, 3415#.

Well, now, it is true that my IAT fooler changes the mix & I normally flip the FOOLER OFF for cold starts & then switch it ON (warm engine setting) once the engine is running. Whether running a IAT fooler or not, a FAULT will affect the VP44. It is, after all, a computerized Injection Pump. I suppose any errorious readings could result in strange happenings. It is nice to see Mike getting the well deserved recognition for his contributions. Any codes?

I bought the Cooper Discoverer AT3. Too soon to tell on this install but my last Cooper Discoverers wore like iron. I selected these for the open tread design. I also run one set year round.

Back when I was a dumb kid... I had a 76 Datsun PU. During the summer, when I was working the boat docks on the weekends, I'd wear cut off jeans which had frayed about as far as they could without being arrested. I was going down Rte 1... about 60 mph... whan a big bumble bee hit the window frame & bouced into my lap, between my bare legs. He wasn't much alive but was thrashing about very unhappy. I coasted onto the breakdown lane while tryinjg to figuire out how to not get stung. It must have looked pretty funny but not to me! It wasn't much later I discovered a severe allergy to bee stings & ended up in the ER a few times before I learned to take antihistamine immediately. Always carried AH & eppy on my horse. So, yeah, know where you are coming from.

"What we did to achieve this goal was to mix and match parts from other VP44 pumps to advance the timing mechanically and optimize fueling rates for better mileage. Yes this does modify the emissions, but not to the extent that the engine will smoke and attract attention from the tree huggers. After installation you can hear the timing difference especially at an idle. You will hear more of a crackle to the engine which is an indication of the timing advance..." "...If you are presently or plan on advancing the timing with an electronic plug in device or programmer don’t buy this pump as we are only doing mechanically what those products do electronically. We do it cheaper..." http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/better_fuel.html This gives the impression... though not stated as fact... that the total timing advance is the same max capability (limited my the VP44 design). Whether it is mechanically activated or electronically. It's unclear what the fueling changes are. "Can't have too much timing advance" flies in the face of everything I know. Certainly the initial advance can be set too early. Not for nothing, but about now, I'd be checking the timing of the VP44 to the engine. Yes, Mike, I'm old school too. Back when we set the timing every time we replaced points. Yes, you could get a Chevy to run like a bear with timing advance... only to discover it wouldn't start at cranking speeds. Note Chip has retired & sold the business to his long time employee Doug Rocco.

The Blue Chip site clearly states that the Special X VP44 adds the timing in mechanically that tuners do electronically. The max advance in unchanged & you can't get more advance by stacking electronics on top of the Special X. It just doesn't seem to me that this should be an advance problem. Are you running any box or other programer to add fuel?

I don't have as much power as some of you guys. The XZT+ made a noticeable difference in power for towing though. When I tow the toyhauler on the Interstate... I know it's not recommended but I'll run in OD... down hill & on the flat. The problem is "What's flat?" Little bumps in the road, I usually leave in OD if I have enough speed going in. If not, or the hill proves longer/steeper, I'll be ready to cut the speed & hit the OD switch off. If I'm facing a big grade I know I'm going shift down. I just can't make my whole trip at 50-55mph & I can't stand the screaming engine to rev up to 65. Unlike other vehicles I own, the speedometer is dead nuts on (against the TomTom GPS)... or was with the OEM Michilin's... I'll need to watch with the new Coopers. It would be nice if it cut the gearing some.

I bought my truck (or more was sold a bill of goods by dealer) with 4:10s. I bought it new. With the OEM optional 265/75R16 tire size, this is still TOO LOW. I end up towing in OD when I can because the alternative is a screaming engine or drop my speed to 50. I feel 4:10s was a mistake for me. The standard gear ratios give (apparently) plenty of power, quieter cruising & better econimy. I've never got over 18mpg. If you want to run big tires, figure out the ratio to correct for it.

Our esteemed friends here are forgetting the boxes they are running. The VP44, as issued, retards timing for better emissions. I think all mileage boxes or mpg setting on boxes like my XZT+ add timing in some fashon. VP44s can also be built (like the Blue Chip Special X) to add timing but it's easier to do electronically with an external box. I'm not sure what can be done with a mechanical pump but they were rated lesser power as issued. I'll leave this line to people with knowledge.

I think this is a lot more about Independant shops... who work every day... than about DIY owners. Most owners do not have the shop & tools to do many of the repairs. I think this is another attempt to keep the Independant shop from getting the tools that are supposedlt "dealer only". But if it were not for independant shops, GM ignition switches would still be killing owners. I don't think this will fly.

All in favor of Stealerships having a monopoly, raise your hands. In all fairness, my cousin ran a great dealership, gave great service & was worth every penny. The folks who bought them out, fired all the mechanics & especially the job writer... who was simply amazing. Service went to hell. They didn't find the problem I took it in for & failed to latch the hood correctly (causing the hood to fly up as I described in another post) & then damaged & concealed the air box they broke. I tried another dealer, for a fuel pump failure who charged me for code reading which wasn't done (or they lied to me when they said there were no codes.) I get real pissy about mechanics who treat my stuff like crap after I paid nearly 40K for the truck off the showroom. I'm undecided on the dealer I bought the Avenger at... we'll see.

A buddy of mine introduced me to 50/50 linseed oil / turp. He soaks hand made wood bows in it to keep them flexible. It soaks in & keeps the wood supple. I have used it on all sorts of wood projects with great results. Because it is in the wood, it never peels like a surface treatment. It can be redone as needed. I wish I'd done it on my cedar siding instead of stain.

If someone admits a mistake & makes it good... it would be pretty hard to hold a grudge. But I can not stand being lied to. Besides the airbox... a different dealer claimed truck showed no codes, after I paid $100 to have codes read. I refused the intank fuel pump fix & had it taken to a diesel shop who read the codes & lift pump failure code. The shop fixed a ground & had it running on the OEM lift pump. I decided to do the Airdog lift pump anyway. An independant shop broke my 7 pin trailer connector in the chanel iron rear bumper on my C30... and concealed it. I went to hook up my trailer & found the destroyed plug stuck back together. I had the truck AC worked on... required pulling the dash. The rear sensor on my installed radart dection system ($1000 unit) never worked after it came back. Likely they just yanked the custom wires despite my pointing out the zip ties to get extra length.