flagmanruss

MicroWave? What's that? I only have Honda 1000 for charging my scooter... and (3) camper batteries I really ought to get my big generator fixed... Honda 6500. That'll run a microwave! But nobody's gonna pick it up & put it in the outside compartment! LOL!

Blue Chip Diesel http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/index.html only does VP44s now including having Special pumps built to their specs... I found them to be a useful information source no matter where you buy your VP44. Somewhere in there I recall reading that various things have been tried including insulation & ductwork to cool the VP & BlueChip considers them ineffective. I've seen lots written on this subject & the part of the problem that can't be overcome is that the pump itself is bolted to a hunk of hot metal (the engine). The engine gets hot when working... HOTTER, I should say... but it has a cooling system... So in my view, when the truck has been working (say towing heavy) then we should idle it to cool down, as we currently recommend to allow the turbo to cool down. (When the engine is shut down, the oil pressure bleeds down quickly & the water pump & fan stop turning. Immediately after shut down, residual heat will transfer to all attached components... I had occasion a couple of years ago to run the temp up very HOT... maneuvering under load to get the trailer sited in a soft field... I popped the hood (to let the heat out) & let the engine idle for 10 minutes after the gauge read normal temperature... I don't recommend doing what happened, but I think I 'saved' it... by my actions.

I'm still running my CAD axle (Center Axle Disconnect) with no troubles (yet). I don't know what changes were made & what it would take to convert to the newer parts. Maybe it wouldn't be too much to step up to 01-02 style.

Except for only being 2 WD... sounds like the old style set up on my 79 Chevy C30. It had ABS on only one axle...

I've heard of people retrofitting 3rd gen brakes to second gens like mine... have to go to the 17" wheels to clear the larger brakes but better stopping power & I'd think brake life with the larger area.

Oooops! My Bad! That's what happens when I try to operate from memory. Yes, the 265s came on the truck as part of the several option packages it was loaded with. The standard size was smaller.So your 285s are already cutting into the 4.10 gears. Russ

Only rarely can I break 16 mpg... best of 18... all running light & trying for mpgs, with my 4.10 gears & 285R16 OEM Michelin... still on original tires the truck came with! Any time the wife drives the truck anywhere, I lose 1 mpg for the whole tank full. I would consider you 16 to be typical good mpg. Anytime I hit highway speeds, I'm over 2000 rpm with these tires (21-2200rpm) & the mpg falls off. The guys who have 3.55 axles can get 20 or slightly more. Even a 3.73 axle would be better.Now going to 17s or bigger tires would have the same effect... 17s are a common switch to allow for 3rd gen brakes to be retrofitted. I don't recall but I think a leveling kit is required to run 17s. When it's time for new tires, I will consider it.

I suggest you skip the K & N oiled filter... oiled filters are not well regarded in tubodiesels. There are lots of dry elements including the huge BHAF (Big Honkin Air Filter) to choose from. I think the 3.55 stock axle ratio is much better unless one plans on much bigger tires. I HAVE 4.10s & consider it a bad choice... but I can't afford to change the axles so I'm stuck with it. There ought to be lots of trucks & wrecks with the 3.55s since that was the stock ratio.

I sent the link to my bro-in-law... former AF flyboy (Nav on B52, #2 on F111), former AA Jet Captain... now retired, he's back in the air as a flight instructor.

I'd be afraid to know what my tongue weight is!

Hopefully, the power of the internet... it was front page news yesterday... will convince the stealer... dealership... to make it right to the customer AND correct the personel problem. After the A** H**** get done paying the dealership back for the clutch, there will be a powerful incentive not to F up a customer's car again. I dare say, the negative publicity has already cost the dealership more than the clutch. The guy needs to play that tape for the (dealership) owner.

Pretty amazing... make the jerks pay for the damages! http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/camaro-owner-records-mechanics-abusing-car-scheming-damages-152707580.html

My ToyHauler has 3 recievers accross the back & had a ATV sized frame in the tripple reciever when we bought it. We decided that we didn't want it & left it behind. An ATV on the tail would have changed the weight distribution quite a bit. The axles are position is more nearly centered on TTs vs THs.

MY tag-along Toy Hauler tows pretty nice with the water tanks full & holding tanks empty... it was a real bear coming home with water empty & black water full. I had to get a tag-along because I'm physically unsafe on stairs & sleeping bed in the gooseneck would likely cause yet another fall for me. I wish I could convert mine to a skeleton gooseneck... I'm thinking of adding balast to the rear to offset the holding tank weight. I would sure try to put as much weight at or behind the axles rather than increase the tongue weight. I'm thinking of building tool boxes under the trailer behind the axles for wheel chocks & leveling blocks.

I could have ground the cast in tabs off with my dremel but I think they actually function to help keep the moveable pane up so water can drain underneath. I pushed all that open cell foam in & disgarded, for better or for worse. I'm sure I need to rebed all the windows & hardware. I have looked up the butyal tape...or possibly use Marine grade 3M 5200 caulk. Silicone is NOT good stuff for this. In boats silicone was never used below the water line. I used it around my window frames at the house & it's now coming off in strings. My thought is rain gutters above the windows, attached to the siding might deflect the rain water running down, allowing the drains to keep up with what hits the glass. It's just a theory... until I try it.

I had posted this elsewhere: The camper is a 2001 28' Thor Transport with a salvage title... originally sold in California, now in Rhode Island by way of Montana. The drain slots have a cast in flange on the inside which the bottom of the sliding panel rubs against... I tried bending the flange up & when I did the slider would not move. I originally thought the drain slots were plugged with debris but when I tried to clear the slot with a razor knife & putty knife... I pushed in a sliver of open cell foam. I presume intended to keep bugs out but now plugged with pollen, so it stayed out. The problem can happen on both sides depending on wind direction. I've drilled additional holes next to the slots... which help but I am still getting the full track flooding over under severe rain conditions. There is a filler strip on the outside, perhaps intended to deflect some rain water, but possibly now worn. The only thought I have is to install gutters immediately above each window to deflect water running down the side of the trailer. I am unhappy with the caulk used on the camper... obiviously not original. I am dealing with other leaks also & all ought to be done with the correct caulk. Does anybody know what caulk is recommended?

My system with straight through 4inch "muffler" might as well have been straight pipe. The only problem was noise towing... sounded great running empty but that's not why I bought the truck! Yes tubos free spin after shut down... if you idle the truck & let it cool off before shut down, it should minimize the turbo spin after.

Yes, there's plate each inside & outside the frame with long bolts. It's a decent fit with a long bed truck like mine. Mount the pump inside the frame for best protection from stones & road debris.

Multiple tanks is common in marine applications... the problem is the valving for the return lines. Maybe someone knows of a dual valve, because 2 manual valves are not mistake proof. And no there's no guarentee that a T will split the return flow equally. In one 35' sport fishing boat, the uneven return had the boat tipped so people were in danger of falling out of their seats. As Mike stated, the risk of spilling expensive fuel & GETTING FINED FOR the spill, would certainly cool me from the project.

The factory filter may be unnecessary behind an AD set up but for just a couple more fitting & a bit of hose, it can be left in the system with a good clean filter & the heater & water sensor.

If you are not going to go for more HP, the obivious fix is a frame mounted pump like raptor or AD 100, use the stock withdraw tube & a big line kit & get rid of the restrictive banjo fittings. A better filter will go in the stock housing.

Did it always do this since the install? Might there be a colapsed suction line OR the bottom of the draw straw hitting the bottom of the tank, restricting the flow?

I stood post as a Reserve member of the local PD (yes, we were armed) for evacuated beach neighborhoods post hurricane(s). Pretty boring. As the hurricanes were close misses, the residents were anxious to check for damage but the areas weren't opened until the utilities were inspected. The actually beach front houses were pretty damaged by waves & small stones thrown though the plate glass.

When I had the AD 150 & big line kit installed I replaced the restrictive banjo bolts with big open fittings from Vulcan. I ordered a couple of extra fittings for the stock filter housing & left it in the system. I had the stock housing serviced & filter replaced with a Baldwin filter. I removed the OEM lift pump but you can't remove the bracket as the bolts go through.

Modifying the basket by adding holes or removing the screens will work... once you understand the problem, there are several solutions.