jtrakel

I've recently completed both tasks you are currently facing and removing the front crank case cover was way easier than expected! I did not drop the key while removing my VP but oil was leaking from the front cover on my rig as well as the tappet cover. Make sure you procure a front crankshaft seal so you can replace that while you have the cover off. Thorughbred Diesel makes some pretty awesome HowTo videos for our 2nd gens, this one helped my a lot with the crank case cover! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuuxQLUhx_s EDIT: For the record I have also replaced the oil pan gasket and if it was between the oil pan gasket or the crank case cover to find the missing key I would remove the front cover 10 times again before attempting to drop the oil pan again.

that’s my intent and the reason I decided to just tear every piece of interior out. I have quite a bit of sound insulation to reinstall when I get it back from the body shop. I also plan to run new speaker wire to all the doors/tweeter along with amp wire for the anticipation of a new sound system down the road. I found the issue with my blower motor finally! There was no actual issue with any of the HVAC components and all wires/grounds are in good condition. The issue ended up being a loose fitting fuse in the AUX fuse panel when you open the drivers door. The PO had all sort of "add-a-fuse" prongs so when i removed them the fan blower fuse was not making contact with the little holders inside the panel. I've replaced the fuse with a brand new one that has some more material on it so it maintains a solid contact.

Good evening to all I hope you have your favorite beverage and snack for this one as I've gone down a deep rabbit hole trying to bring this truck back to life so here we go! -----Short story, if you are having blower issues and the troubleshooting has basically stopped check the interior fuse panel to ensure you are getting good contact with your fuse, having an add-a-fuse can spread the little keepers inside the fuse holder creating an interrupt at the ignition source for the blower relay (pin 86 I believe).-------- In the process of fixing one of the numerous issues with my recently purchased 2001 Cummins I was at that moment in time where you are ready to fire up the rig after doing some work in hopes it kicks over with no issues and noticed my fan blower is not turning on. I kept my eye on the prize and decided I would circle around to that issue once I conduct a leak check for the timing cover and crank seal I just removed and reinstalled. Everything went well and later replaced the oil pan gasket as well, hopefully no more leaks once the truck is running again....more about that soon. I started to dive into the fan checking the simple things like relays, fuses, and connections as within the past month I put a new blower and resistor in. With no luck I turned to the forums which lead me to an ignition switch. A quick trip to the parts store and they had one in stock luck me, swapped it out and again nothing changed with the blower motor, time to investigate further. This is where things get deep, I started looking under the dash as any typical person would looking for some "obvious" sign that said your problem is right here but instead I found a wiring harness that has multiple grounds shorted and burned through casing and even melting some plastic. the blower issue was a blessing in disguise as I feel my truck would have burned down eventually. So at this point it was off to the races with the dash removal and figuring out what to do next. Naturally the heater box came out as well, I went ahead and replaced the heater core and A/C evap cleaning out the box to remove all the nasty stuff built up over the years. That's when I discovered what I can only assume to be factory splices, can someone confirm this for me it's on the passengers side as well. Full disclosure my truck was hit on the drivers side and the PO rebuilt the truck to some degree hence all my issues (you live and you learn) which is why I believe there is a lot of bondo in these areas just weird to see it on the passanger side as well in the same spot, again maybe it's OEM? DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SIDE I've been able to source a new harness via Ebay and everything has hooked back up nicely. I went down the entire trouble shooting steps alldatadiy.com provides and had multiple Schematics printed so I could check all wires within the blower system finally resulting in a loose fitting fuse for the blower motor in the fuse box. the PO had some crazy electrical things going on with this truck to include a crappy Add-a-Fuse which basically widened the holder for one side of the prongs that hold the fuse in place. But my blower works now and that's a huge weight off my shoulders plus some confidence building on my part as electrical has never been my strong suite. So I finally figured this one out and now it's onto the next steps of getting this truck on the road. I'll be taking it to a body shop this week hopefully to get the door aligned/checked out, body work is beyond my skill level and the truck is constantly leaking water (didn't figure this out till after purchase, go figure). Leaks are coming from the half doors on both sides and I've already replaced every seal I can get my hands on. It's also leaking in the corner of the windshield where the VIN stamp is riveted on the truck, I believe the PO allowed a "buddy" to install the window instead of a trained professional so that will get fixed as well. To round out this long post I have literally the entire truck stripped right now waiting to have sound proofing/deading installed, brand new carpet, headliner, and sun visors, completely new dash and whatever else I have sitting around waiting to be installed. Should be basically a new truck at that point I'm also waiting on my new GX-E 57/65/14 from @dieselautopower to show up so it can get that thrown on once it returns from the body shop!!! Phew that was a lot to write but I appreciate all the help from this forum over the past month. I am hopeful that when it's put back together my electrical issues will subside and I can work on getting my Quad talking to the ECM etc. but that's for another day. Cheers!

I went ahead and replaced the Alternator anyways with a Nations for future power requirements if I so choose. My Quad showed up today with the Iquad and I got everything hooked up but it seems like the quad keeps disconnecting from the truck. My iphone will stay connected to the iquad but I'm not able to adjust anything within the app. I went ahead and purchased a few tunes from the store here just to ensure I don't mess anything up and it will load a tune but I'm not able to add any type of gauges/monitors. if I close out the app and open back up it acts like there is nothing talking to the truck at all, starting to wonder if my ECM is bad and I can't seem to find anything on how to test it on truck. The "wait to start" light appears and goes out like it should when key is on etc. If I procure a new ECM is it simply plug and play or do I have to take it somewhere so it will work with the truck.? Truck runs and the A/C noise is down to nothing at this point, I have not let the truck run long enough to see if the stutter/rough idle shows up i'm to worried about be stranded on the side of the road so that will have to wait till this weekend. Also my blower motor has completely stopped working, it was just replaced last week and I replaced the ignition switch on the column as i've read that causes issue. 20 amp fuse in the truck is good and swapped a relay in the main PDC as well with no luck. This truck is going to be the end of me!

So I have finally got my truck up and running after an extensive amount of maintenance that needed to be completed as the previous owner neglected the heck out of this poor girl. While everything was being worked on I went ahead and did the full W-T wiring modification and the alternator PCM protection as well that @Mopar1973Man has been so awesome at spreading around to everyone. I did not check the AC volts prior to the maintenance and W-T mod. I went ahead and took a video of my results while the truck was running, unless i'm doing something wrong or have the incorrect setting my alternator is beyond BAD reading in at 1.04 AC volts which hopefully is the smoking gun for many of my electrical issues with the truck. I will provide a list of everything done to the truck recently for essay. Should I just scrap this alternator right now and get a new one? I see Nations is a well regarded brand or maybe the Mean Green alternator on @dieselautopower site and do I need to be concerned with anything else that may be toast because of these readings (ECU, PCM etc.). I've spared no expense and thrown the everything minus the kitchen sink at this truck and want it to finally be reliable. The only code I have is the P1693 which I understand simply states the ECM or PCM whichever is not reporting has an issue however I literally cannot find any other codes currently using the OBDLink MX+ on my iPhone XR with the provided app from the Company "OBDLink". Am I doing something wrong with my reader to not see anything else except the P1693? * I posted a video before with the truck at idle having major issues and will post again. It does it while driving as well and typically the issue presents itself once the truck has warmed up and been running for 20-30 minutes. I am not able to get into the throttle at all or push through the issue because the truck dies on me while driving, sometimes when it's warmed up it will "stutter" if I rev the motor. Fuel pressure since I just installed the gauge and LP is right around 18-20psi at idle (sensor roughly 2ft from VP44). Work done in the last 2 weeks: REMOVED: Legacy quadzilla XZT, BD TQloc, AND A BD APPS noise filter REPLACED/INSTALLED: - W-T mod (with 150 Amp inline fuse for the alt) - Alt/PCM protection w/appropriate inline fuse - New MAP sensor, oil pressure sensor, IAT sensor, and Oil pressure sensor - Installed ISSpro fuel press, EGT, boost, and trans temp - FASS 165GPH LP used @IBMobile method of wiring the relay and it's awesome! (deleted factory block LP and filter may install later) - Crazy Carls BHAF - Quad Adrenaline (havent installed until I figure out electrical issues) - Timbo APPS - Rebuilt Vacuum pump - Replaced tappet oil gasket - Replaced front timing cover - Cam shaft front seal - Coolant flush, thermometer and water pump - Complete heater grid delete Next up is replacing the oil pan gasket, it's still leaking and the previous owner said he just did it but I don't believe him. Hopefully this ends my oil leak issues

Thanks, guess I just blasted through that article to fast during the day! I'll have to look back over it.

Looks like a clean setup, where did you get that relay from? I've been searching around town and cannot find anything with a resistor incorporated (online is next obviously). Also do you mind providing me with how you have everything wired up for the FASS pump, I see you mentioned a in line fuse going to the ECM etc. I have not seen that before. Cheers!

Got the truck running this morning after letting the pump run some more. As I was doing a leak check I noticed two different areas are leaking oil. first is right next to the VP44 where I grounded the wires for the W-T mod. I used a red lead to show, it’s bubbling out of the grey RTV looking area. Should I just reseal this area or do you think it calls for removing the front half of the cover and replacing gaskets? ? next leak is coming from the OEM fuel pump location where I installed the delete plate, it has a gasket on it but it’s definitely leaking from that spot maybe some RTV?

Thanks @IBMobile you have been a tremendous help today along with everyone else!! Random question, will fuel make it up to the fuel rail without the truck turning over? If I just have the pump running like you just described should I see fuel at the rail with the lines cracked open?

Yeah I'm going to give it some more tomorrow in hopes I did give it enough time to clear out the air, with the way this truck has been thus far I'm nervous about not replacing the VP44 when I already had it removed but that will be for another day. I've dumped enough $$ into this rig already time for it to run hopefully!

Well I got the pump temporarily wired up to the ECM (hopefully DAP will send a new harness) and it runs as it should, turn ignition on and it runs for about 2 seconds and then bump the starter and it will run for 25 seconds. I'm currently in the process of trying to get the truck to turn over now with no luck (no codes), I've already cracked the line from the LP to the VP44 and its getting fuel along with hearing the return fuel dumping back into the fill neck of the tank from the LP. I've cracked 3 of the injectors lines and there is not a drop of diesel to be seen thus far. Maybe I just need to keep turning it over or is something else going on? I did do a lot of things to the truck at once which is not always the best practice but it was so torn apart I might as well. Replaced tappet cover gasket (removed VP44 and vacuum/power steering pump) Rebuilt vacuum pump W-T mod w/ inline breaker on the passenger battery and parallel ground ran between batteries PCM/Alternator protection with/inline 7.5 fuse Two new batteries Replaced all power steering hoses Removed OEM engine mounted fuel pump and OEM fuel filter (may install again at later date) Install FASS 165GPH lift pump Truck is now completely stock except 5in exhaust, Banks "Big Ram" intake horn, heater grid delete (removed cables as well), 65 Gallon fuel cell (still cant figure out the manufacture of the tank). Things to be added in near future: Quad adrenaline BT VP44 stealth cover (do I even need this with the quad?) ISSpro fuel press, trans temp, EGT, and boost New headliner and sun visors ;-) BHAF

email sent thanks

So I noticed there is a pig tail attached to my OEM harness for the fuel pump. If I take the Add-A-Fuse cable from the FASS harness and tap into the red wire will this satisfy to power requirements fro the ECM and operate the lift pump correctly @IBMobile? Pig tail attached to OEM harness. The red wire connects to the Yello/White wire (ECM power as I understand) Add-a-fuse wire from FASS harness. If I cut the fuse portion off and then splice it into the pig tail will this be good enough or do I need to do something with the other half of the connector (black wire). Relay provided by FASS kit that's integrated into system terminals are as follows 85- Going to Add-A-Fuse wire 86- Ground which is also going to lift pump connection 87- Power heading down the length of truck to lift pump 87a- EMPTY 30- power from battery per FASS install instructions

Yeah I would have gone with an Air Dog no questions asked if I had known this was going to be an issue.

Thank you for all the help I will report back with success or failure!

I only have One, 2 pin connection on the harness provided. I see the step you brought up and that would make absolute sense if they provided a way to plug it in!!! I've been reading this thread as well I found thinking I may just follow these steps so the ECM talks with the pump. Just have to research it some more to figure out what wire to connect to where, I am very challenged when it comes to talking about pins etc and electrical.

@dripley I don't have any other pig tails with this kit. The only connection I have with the supplied cable goes directly to the lift pump, then I have the green (ground) and red (power) wire going to the battery, lastly the portion in question that has the Add-A-Fuse which the directions call to connect into a ignition hot fuse. I got the kit from @dieselautopower so I assume it's the correct kit for the rig. It appears that almost all FASS lift pumps have this add a fuse install vs the Air dog systems which communicate with the ECM via the OEM fuel pump electrical connection

Any idea on the steps to take to complete this, I'm not electrical savvy at all sadly enough.

Good morning, currently installing my FASS 165 LP and the directions have me installing an Add-A-Fuse into a ignition hot fuse under the hood it does not talk about wiring the LP into the PCM at all. Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I should place this "add-a-fuse" for the ignition hot. I've added the install manual i'm working with for reference, it's on PDF page 13 step E and F. Thanks and cheers! TS-D08-095G-or-TS-D08-165G-2.pdf

Thanks I submitted this inquiry before contacting DAP but I'm glad I was able to get all my questions answered, top notch service!

That's my plan just want to put all the supporting mods in place first before I start adding power. I got a quad on the way as well so I can start monitoring everything and all the supporting sensors. I have to become more confident in this rig before turning up anything as it's been a headache thus far, currently replacing majority of the prone to leak seals (tappet, crank case, vacuum pump, etc.) figured I take care of the fuel stuff since it's easy to get to right now!

Awesome thank you for the information, I have not decided if I want to utilize the stock filter or not still. I have an Auto good sir.

Looking for some advice, about to pull the trigger on the purchase of a FASS 165 lift pump. Currently the trucks fuel system is completely stock with the stock lift pump being in the engine bay still. Do I need 1/2" fuel hose or does the kit come with it? I keep seeing "big line" kits on @dieselautopower website and want to make a single purchase and not regret having a better supply/return system. I've read that other members are using their stock fuel filter in conjunction w/FASS lift pump system, is this correct as any added protection I want to take advantage of? Would I require a "Big Line" kit if I went this route vs. just using whatever FASS sends in the box and bypassing all the stock system. I plan to upgrade injectors later when I go with a bigger turbo and want to ensure the supporting system is ready for those upgrades. I plan to buy the VP44 stealth cover and quad with the purchase of the FASS lift pump. Anything else I should grab while my wallet is open?

I drove the truck for a while yesterday with no issues, very weird as it was having a lot of problems before. I'm still getting the 1693 code but nothing else. I also tried to do the key method to display a code and it did not work.

I'll give it a shot and report back. I've been reading about the Torque app to utilize with this reader as well maybe a different app with work better. To note when I open up the OBDlink app and try to connect it asks which ECU I'd like to connect to D1 or 15. Both still only display the 1693. @Mopar1973Man Understood I've been reading all your posts about this exact scenario which is why I'm quite perplexed on what to do next. Is there a better IOS based app out there which can read deeper in the ECM or PCM or maybe a setting somewhere that I'm missing? I've tried clearing the codes on both ECUs and they do come back almost instantly, I have not driven the truck much at all due to the nature of the problem I'd like to not be stranded on the side of the road. If you read the thread earlier I stated that there was an unidentified tuner installed when I got the truck (consensus says VERY old Quadzilla). I'm tempted to reinstall this tuner and see if the problem goes away however that would be a temp fix as I plan to upgrade to a new quad. Lastly the only modification that I'm aware of left on this truck is the APPS filter which is still installed. I'm waiting to remove that until all my parts show up to do the W-T mod which I will remove the filter before starting that project.