jtrakel

I'm going to pull the caliper tomorrow and take a look. I like to believe it's operating correctly as it's only a few months old but many times over we have all seen a brand new part bad out of the box!

My passenger front brake is dragging pretty good when I spin the wheel vs the drivers side, the front end is in the air right now for some other work so I have not been driving the truck in some time. Brake fluid is pretty new from the previous owner (owned for about 4 months now) as he had to replace the caliper and rotor on the pass front brake because the rotor basically disintegrated while he owned it. This was discovered the day before I purchased the truck, the rotor, pads, and caliper all look brand new and have enough miles on them that the pads should be seated at this stage. When I am able to drive the rig I can smell the brakes after driving for a bit and a mixture of hard and normal brake applications, the pedal feels normal for a 20 year old truck so bleeding does not seem to be the issue in my mind at least. Today I went ahead and backed off the bleed screws on the caliper until fluid was slowly seeping out, spun the wheel and no change to the amount of drag. With no pressure being applied in the system what else should I be looking at before I start throwing more parts at this truck (hub assy, new rotors, bend caliper bracket?) Appreciate any feedback, hopefully I'll have my PCM, ECM, and wiring harnesses for the transmission and engine back next week from Auto Computer Specialist so I can finally fire this thing up again! I plan to take a video tomorrow of the difference between the two wheels and how they free spin, you can clearly hear the pads dragging on the passenger side.

I second this! My ECM and PCM along with both engine and transmission harness are currently with ACS getting looked at/fixed. Great communication and respond quickly to emails and phone calls.

I was/am in the same boat as you are. I went ahead and purchased the quad then loaded some of the tunes located on this forum, the stock tunes that are loaded on the Quad when purchased work as well. I also do not have time to sit and play with a tune constantly and have been searching around the internet for a reputable tuner/experienced person that I can pay for some one on one tuning and data logging to get my rig dialed in once my engine harness and computer come back from testing. I've found one guy via Instagram his username is 1badVP44 who offers custom tuning, it appears he has a drag truck and some sponsors but I have not made contact at this point as I'm still a little hesitant on the direction I want to take.

I don't have your exact issues but my gauge cluster is acting funny as well (RPM reads off etc.) I also did the cluster test and thought everything was good until I attempted it again and noticed my "wait to start" light was not illuminating. It always turns on during normal operations but fails during the test, this may mean nothing to you but maybe look at the test again and ensure the light comes on as well. If I remember correctly if the light does not illuminate there's an issue with the cluster, I've since given up on chasing wires and currently have my ECM, PCM, engine and transmission harness being tested and repaired with Auto Computer Specialist. Awesome staff and extremely easy to communicate with! I believe the wiring bundle that is by the inner fender goes to the rear of the truck for lights, trailer connections etc. I attached a link for the 2000 cummins wiring diagram in case you have not stumbled across it yet for some of your wire chasing! Cheers! https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/2000-engine-wiring-map-r391/

That's comforting the hear. I was frantically searching if this was a remotely common thing when doing studs, everything is back together now just waiting for my PCM and ECM to show up in the mail! Suppose I'll just chalk my hole up to a "custom" fabrication!

Saw this to late and now there is a hole in my cowling . I threw some duct tape over it along with some sound damping spray that I had in the garage. Definitely didn't miss the gym today with the amount of torquing and loosening of the head bolts. I followed the glacier diesel steps so hopefully when everything is said and done I didn't induce a head gasket failure. Just waiting on my PCM and ECM to be sent back from Computer Specialist then I'll be able to fire up the rig with the new injectors and VP. I installed a Red Head steering gear and new power steering pump as well today. What brands are people using to tighten up the front end some more, is there a kit out there that a lot of members use vs. buying individual parts?

I agree, currently cutting a hole in the firewall for this stud to drop in the well and hopefully that will be the only one I need to mess with! I've ordered a new head gasket set for the future so I at least have it on hand now in the event the current one gives out after I finish the studs.

165,xxx

ive read on some other forums that it’s normal to see condensation build up. Just seems like more than normal for me. Not sure but I agree there is zero sign of coolant in the liquid and it dries like water unlike that slick feeling you have on your fingers after touching oil or coolant

Thanks for the reply, i'm 50/50 right now if I want to pull the head but I feel I may just do it anyways since the motor is already pulled apart to an extent for the VP and injectors I just installed. My next issue i've run into is getting the ARP stud to drop into the well for #11 bolt (via the ARP bolt guide they send). It is contacting the firewall preventing it from dropping into the hole. I've looked at my motor mounts to ensure they are all the way seated and it appears they are, I have not read anywhere of others having this issue. Again more signs that I may just pull the head off and see what nightmare may be waiting for me.

Afternoon while replacing my head studs today to some ARPs I noticed some water in the head stud wells. It doesn't look like coolant as it's clear vs green and hardly mixed with oil. Of the 8 studs I've done two of them had this water in the hole. There is no real smell and is does have a slight viscosity but dries up like water would vs that "oily" feeling from coolant or oil. See the video of me using a clear straw to extract the liquid. I've read that our studs do not go into any water jackets, I've also read about finding condensation/some water while doing head studs but this seems a little much. The obvious answer is a head gasket but I'm not seeing any other signs. Smoke for exhaust, coolant in oil, and I got a oil test done about 1 1/2month ago with no indications of a pending head gasket. Has anyone done a head gasket at home, any recommendations do/don'ts if I go down this path? IMG_2117.mp4

I have a feeling I’ll need a better scanning tool than my OBDLink to do anything, so far this scanner has basically yielded nothing for me as I’m not able to read the associated P1693 that keeps showing up on the scanner and nothing else associated I’ll be putting in a new VP and some 7x0.0095 with head studs in the upcoming weeks. I may send the ECM and PCM off for testing as well however I’m not sure what all to give then for information about my issues as it’s never consistent

Thanks good to know, guess I wont actually need the crank sensor then! I just assumed it had one as well as the cam sensor! I just sent a message to Auto Computer to start seeing what they may be able to do for help.

I'm leaning that way also, I think during my VP replacement the PCM and ECM will be removed and sent off for testing, I need to call and ask what they can do though since I'm not getting any codes or check engine lights associated with any of my current issues. I planned to utilize @Auto Computer Specialist

I went ahead and conducted this test thanks for the link. First time around everything seemed to check out but I decided to do it again just because and look at the "wait to start light". I've never had an issue with my light not being on while starting the truck so never put thought into it. But during the test sure enough it wont illuminate. @Mopar1973Man do you think this will point towards a replacement of the instrument cluster or something different, my Quad and code readers RPMs are withing a 100 or so of each other which are consistently 500-1000 RPM higher than whats displayed on the tachometer.

Hello as the title states my tach will not read past 2000-2200 RPMs. It seems like it ready correctly while cruising and idle but stops right around 2-2.2k. I went ahead and gave it full throttle with my quad logging at it shows it actually going to ~3200RPM with the audio sound of it hitting the limiter. Is my gauge cluster just bad or am I looking at something more in-depth? In my long quest of fixing this truck i'll be replacing the VP and injectors in the upcoming week and want to ensure I don't have a ECM/PCM issue possibly. I've considered removing them and having them sent off for testing but I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes that i'm aware of, not sure if they can do much without having codes to provide when sending the unit(s) off for testing. iQuad-2020-06-11-12.11.44.csv

Yes that was a typo thanks for the catch Dripley!

See a sticky overflow in the FP was my thought process as well, just trying to rule out all possibilities. I’ve been looking at some of the Autel scanning units, the S-O is a little to rich for my experience level but looks like a solid unit to never have to buy another scanner!

I don't believe so, I recently within the last 2 months installed the FASS lift pump and the associated 1/2 I.D. line from the fuel cell to the VP44. I removed the stock fuel filter for the time being. I'm going to try and get a hold of some clear hose like you suggested and see if there is some bubbles going into the VP along with 015point9's suggestion about cracking the injector lines post VP. I was trying to wrap my head around the possibility of the return system possibly being an issue like the overflow valve or the t-fitting that connects the return lines from the injectors and the VP before going back to the tank. When I had my VP off last time I noticed the o-rings going to the t-fitting where not in the best shape but again, would this play a role in my current issue?

Thank you for the replies I will look into suggested approaches. Drove it to and from work again today (roughly 25miles each way) with no issues. I really wish it was consistent enough for me to troubleshoot as I feel she’s going to leave me stranded on the side of the road one day.

I've been looking around for any type of testing I can do to move this along but no luck thus far. I was trying to rule out the VP as i'm getting great fuel pressure leading into the VP with zero codes but there is always a chance I suppose. I would like to determine the actual issue before throwing $1k for a pump and the issue still presents itself.

Well i'm back again with more issues, I've been away from the internet recently as the truck has kept me very busy reinstalling the interior and finishing up the turbo/exhaust install. However my truck has been doing very good the last few days with no major issues (still leaking oil somewhere that I have not discovered yet, or possibly PS fluid). On the way home today my truck began to stutter like it was being starved of fuel and then it kick back on, if I get back into the pedal it happens again like it wants to die. No trouble codes and my fuel press read 15+psi under all conditions. I've replaced literally every sensor I can think of at this point (MAP, Oil press, coolant temp, oil temp, cam position) If I read into my OBDLink on either ECM or PCM they both display P1693 in the freeze frame DTC. I cannot find any other code on the truck which I know is supposed to be impossible but there is nothing else. I'm getting to the end of the rope on this truck and the amount of money I've dumped into it makes me sick lol! I also checked the fuel cell vent line and replaced it with a new hose in case of a blockage. Lastly i'm including a data log of the "stutter" happening from my quad which is having it's own issues staying connected to my phone which I'm in contact with Quadzilla about. The stutter happened twice towards the end of the data log but I don't see anything obvious. This issue was happening before I had any tuning software installed. Could there be air getting into the return line causing the truck to stutter? My brain says the return line should not affect the engine running. This issue happens randomly and I cannot recreate it on my own, its been operating as normal the last 3 days and I've put about 100-150 miles on it. Of note I also get the OD off and Trans temp lights flicker on and off at least once during a drive also. lastly I've included a video of the truck stuttering before I tore it all apart and installed the tuner etc. IMG_1687.mp4 iQuad-2020-06-02-10.21.41.csv

@Josh200124v I literally just went through your exact situation on my 01. Follow the directions that IBMobile provided and it works like a charm! The relay that is provided from FASS will work to get things running but like the directions state you want to get a relay with the proper protection. I had to find mine at the local NAPA store, I don't have my truck with me at the moment or I would snap some photos for you to reference from sorry and I hope this helps! Once I actually read through the link provided it made sense and I'm happy I went this route vs the "tap" fuse route to an ignition source.