Andyba20

Luckily I haven’t had to use mine yet. The TVA sent a message out that they’d be doing rolling blackouts (first time I’ve ever seen them do this), but it looks like they cancelled that move a few hours later. It got down to 3* here this morning. We hit single digits about once a year, but what’s unique about this cold front is those single digit temps are happening 3-4 days in a row. We’re not used to that kinda cold here.

We don’t see cold like this very often in Tennessee, here are my anecdotal observations so far. 1.) I’m going to switch to synthetic PS fluid. My pump and fluid are 6 months old, but had a hard time this morning. I added a bottle of LubeGard, we’ll see tomorrow morning how it does. 2.) I can’t get my trans temp over 100* 3.) Sta-Bil works! I realized this morning the 100% gasoline in my generator is 4 1/2 years old. I treated it with Sta-Bil 4 1/2 years ago. Sucker fired right up and ran like a sewing machine for 30 mins before I cut it off.

Glad you made it back, sorry your Christmas plans got messed up. It’ll probably end up being one of those Christmas’s you’ll never forget.

Ahhh no! I’ve been seeing videos of the Northern Midwest and it’s insane, did you get any video?

Same here, but only when I’m on WiFi. Site access is normal on cellular data.

Thanks for the tip, Hutch. I’ll definitely check that one out a little closer. I was going to move to the 57GXE but even that one I was told won’t spool like stock. That’s when I started looking at the he351cw, the compounds, and I’ve talked to Bradley at Savage Fabrication who is a really good dude. Even his Super 9 won’t spool as low as stock. I could go down 1 size to stock tires, but these are brand new. If tuning and the 7x.010’s can get me around my 1750 boost issue then maybe I’m good. Main reason I started this thread was because of all the different options I listed, it seems that the compounds were the clear winner in satisfied users. But I appreciate getting everyone’s input and opinions. Btw @AH64ID was it you that an he351 with a modified turbine wheel at one time? Where would that unit fall into the conversation? It’s a 62/68/12. I’ve brought this up a few times this year, actually kinda being a pu***% about it and need to just make a decision and get to work. My concern with the 62 is from talking with so many that didn’t love it to tow with. I’m trying to stay under 450hp, I have a well built trans with all new good stuff, but it does have a super single billet converter so I’m really trying to keep the power mildish and reliable. The place I’m needing the most help is in OD at 1750rpm. I’m at about 70mph at 1750 and if I could get a turbo setup to spool a litter earlier that would be helpful at maintaining slight grades when towing light. DAP told me the 62 would shine towing between 2100-2600 rpm…I just won’t be at that range often.

Good info, thanks. Where I live nothing is flat, everything is a gently rolling hill. I lock out OD when I tow heavy, but it gets annoying if I’m towing light on the interstate and have to drop to 3rd to maintain speed juuust as I’m nearing the top of a hill (over and over and over for miles). With my 3.55 and 32.7” tires I’m at 1750-1800 at 70mph. I don’t tow my horses any faster than 65, so 3rd gear is fine, but anything not alive I’ll tow 70-75 on the interstate. I’ve had the 62sxe and infinite perf 7x.010’s sitting in the garage for a few months and I need to get things going, but I just don’t think the 62 is right for me. I think it would be awesome to tow with in 3rd when I’m at 2000-2500rpm, but it seems like it would be pretty much worthless to me in 4th. I think I’d love the he351cw, but then I thought well if I’m gonna go through the effort of plumbing and clocking that turbo maybe I should go a little further and do some small compounds. The reviews seems mixed from guys who tow with the 62, most seem to really like the 351cw, and I really don’t think I’ve heard one bad thing about small compounds.

That makes sense. So for a sub 450hp rig is there still an advantage to a small set of compounds, or could the same performance be met with modern tuning and the right single? To be specific, at 1800 rpm in 4th gear (OD) could a well tuned single match the boost of a small set of compounds. Towing 5K on 4% grade for 1/2 mile in this example.

Ha! It’s just a slight transatlantic variance in lexicon. This is a tow bar here. and this is what came up when I googled towbar That ⬆️ would violate public decency laws in my state 😆 I guess what you call a towbar is what I call a receiver hitch. Then a ball would be attached to a hitch and then inserted into the receiver. Actually when I say it out loud, our terms are very confusing bc they are interchangeable. Yep, I guess bumper pull is the universal term.

Is a towbar in UK the same thing as it is in America? Bc if so I’m gonna need pics/videos of that 40 mile trip.

It seems like everybody thumbs their noses at small compounds these days, but everyone I’ve ever talked to that has had them loved them. I’m specifically referring to stock/s300 type setups, I’m pretty sure the old BD kits used an S300 as the primary. Any idea why we don’t see that setup offered much anymore? Is it just due to a shrinking market and the S400 working better for the 5.9/6.7 crowd as a whole? I’d think someone valuing quick spool and low egt’s more than big power would enjoy the smaller setup…any theories? I’m sure I’m oversimplifying it or missing something. Maybe they really are good set ups, there’s just not a big enough market for vendors to sell them.

That mini skid steer is deceivingly heavy.

Ok to mitigate this you are wanting to hook your mystery switch back up (and run in tandem with the EB controller). So if you’re manually locking the TC with the mystery switch, is the controller smart enough to know the TC is locked and not downshift? Even if you bump the switch to get lock up right after downshift to 3rd, will the controller stay locked after you release the momentary switch or does it still need to see the TPS change off idle and back to idle? Could you use the mystery switch to momentarily “fool” the TPS, I mean could it be wired to do that (a split second signal to mimic going off idle and back)? Or would that type of “fooling” need to happen from the controller? And is the controller’s behavior determined by rpm and TPS only, or is it gear based (does the controller know what gear the truck is in?) Meaning will it behave the same for a 3rd to 2nd downshift as it does with the 4th to 3rd? I can see how it would be annoying to have to bump the throttle on a descent to get the EB to reengage, I assume PacBrake did that as a safety feature to avoid grenading input shafts.

@IBMobileWhat’s your speed at 1000 rpm in 4th? What happens if you, say, got to 1500 rpm in 4th with EB engaged and then lock out OD? Does the controller know to unlock for the downshift then relock, or are you saying in that scenario it still won’t downshift to 3rd until 1000 rpm?

I’d definitely prefer a manual locking switch, but does the controller prevent the trans from shifting while locked, or does the controller momentarily unlock for the shift to occur? That’s the part I’m missing.

Why? Is the controller not engaging the EB when you let off the throttle? I have only driven manual trucks with EB’s so I don’t have much of a reference point.

You could always take that $$$ you were willing to spend on a HG and valves and put it towards an exhaust brake. Pretty sure @IBMobilehas an EB with his auto. If I was trying to enjoy my retirement by traveling around America towing a 10K camper I’d want an EB. Actually, @IBMobile can you explain exactly how the PRXB works on the 47re trucks? Is there a controller that locks/unlocks the converter automatically between shifts or is that still controlled manually with a switch? @Me78569came up with the slickest mod, adding a factory looking momentary lock up switch to the shifter arm…I also like how some guys use a momentary switch pedal on the floor.

I have nearly 300K on the factory gasket, you’re at 150K. Unless there is actual evidence of a HG issue I’d skip on that advice. I did head studs one at a time at 289K just to make myself feel better. I think machining the head, studs, gasket, valve springs plus labor would be closer to 3K. Seems like aftermarket gaskets are hit/miss these days, which is even more reason to stick with what’s working.

@Me78569 question-in this scenario, which turbo (Stock HX or 62) is moving more air at 2000 rpm’s? Subjective question, but thought you might know, generally speaking.

What I don’t know is what/if anything else is different between the drop in vs non drop in version, I just know they rate it up to 500hp which is more than I want/need anyway, especially for a tow rig with a single disc converter.

They offer a “drop in” Super 9 so no need for a new down pipe.

That may very well be the case, I don’t have to deal with that in Tennessee so I wouldn’t know.

Jkidd knows his stuff, I’m a little surprised he recommended that turbo, only because it seems like he recommends the SXE line 90% of the time. He doesn’t sell the Super 9. Maybe he is out of the 57 GXE? The Savage Fab guys are in California I believe, maybe they can get it to you quicker than 3 weeks.

Well the turbo you listed (62/64/12) is quite a bit bigger than your stock turbo which I assume is an HY35, so without having the tuner and bigger injectors it would be pretty laggy and smoky. Even with the tuning and injectors that turbo will feel laggy compared to a stock unit (maybe consider upgrading to a stock HX35 for an easy drop in turbo upgrade). Also, in my opinion, you won’t save any money by breaking that work into stages, so if you have the money now just do it all at once (meaning the turbo, injectors, tuner). If I was going to get a modified HX35 I’d get the savage fabrication Instaspool super 9 (especially with the 3.55 gears). Many will also recommend the GXE 57/65/12. Towing 10k I’d prefer to have my turbo spooling quicker, and the 2 above will do that. all that said, the Quadzilla opens up a lot of tuning capabilities to dial in most anything you want, so if you’ve already made your purchase it’s ok, there are guys on here smarter than me that can help you get everything running really well. I bought a 62/68/12 and I really wish I’d have bought the Super 9.

Sounds like a good plan, Dennis. Only feedback I’d offer is your stages might be out of order a little. I’d go 2, 3, 1, 4, 5.