Andyba20

If I was an oil executive I wouldn’t invest in building new refineries or improving existing ones either, especially when the largest state in America is mandating zero emission vehicles by 2035. This didn’t all just start happening, the hostile political postering against oil started way before Ukraine or the pandemic. We’ve been shifting away from OPEC steadily since before you and I were born @Me78569, I think we get like 4X more crude from Canada than all OPEC countries combined. So we free ourselves from OPEC control and what-shift energy control to China? Because that’s where all the EV batteries are being made…that’s a major major economic security and national security threat. 12% of our energy consumption is electricity, 2/3rds of that electricity is made from fossil fuels. Again, I’m all for advances that make sense to me as a citizen and consumer, but the heavy handed “death to oil” approach from the political class is going to lead to a bigger mess than we can imagine. They claim it’s in the interest of combating climate change, but it’s not, so the out of control push towards green energy has to be for another reason. I don’t know what that reason is.

I’m a fan of EV’s, and I would absolutely own one at some point. What I don’t like is that the push to adopt EV’s is more politically driven and less market driven. Petroleum based vehicles and EV’s can coexist, and as improvements are made in the EV space the market will work itself out. I’ve worked for the Silicon Valley cartel my entire career, and in my experience the market driven technology has always benefited the end user, while mandate driven technology adoption seemed great in the short term, but always created problems way bigger in the long term, often unforeseen.

Agreed. From what I gather, the issue seems to be quality control with aftermarket bearings. Meaning, some seem to come fully greased and others maybe didn’t get enough at the factory. I replaced my bearings about 40,000 miles ago with Napa hub/bearing assemblies. I never thought to look inside to check grease levels or anything. That’s why I think this is a good idea, even if you only do it every 50,000 miles. So it looks like me, @JAG1 and @W-T vote yes on this…who else wants to step up?

Yes, he was one of the first to actually tap the housing and add a zerk fitting. I will probably just use the ABS sensor hole. Drilling for the fitting requires some precision and care to avoid getting any shavings into the bearings. Fittings definitely make future maintenance easier compared to having to remove wheels/brakes/rotors to get to the ABS hole, but it’s not something I’d be doing very often anyway.

The subject has been covered for years, but even on this site I’ve never seen a consensus reached regarding the feasibility of greasing our wheel bearings through the ABS sensor port. I read a lot the past few hours and I really don’t see there being a debate anymore. The argument has always been “you can’t grease a sealed unit”, well tell that to my ABS sensor hole. Our bearing housing is sealed on the outside ends, the inner bearings are not sealed and the abs tone ring is between the inner and outer bearing, so greasing the bearings through the ABS hole will get grease to the bearings. Some have mentioned possible ABS sensor issues from grease getting on the tone ring, but I haven’t read of anyone actually having a problem, plus you can just spin the hub and wipe the grease off the ring with a flathead screwdriver or something similar. I’m reading where some guys are using a mix of 75/25 grease and 140/75 gear oil with no issues reported. I haven’t found any definitive information on how much grease to pump in, but as preventative maintenance I’d think even just 5-10 pumps could do nothing but help. This is not intended to bring an already damaged/worn bearing back to life, but as part of semi regular maintenance to keep the bearings healthy. So, can we finally agree that this is a valid way to extend the life of our wheel bearings? Or does someone have something to say?

Not sure if y’all call it Yams where you’re from, but we’ll be having sweet potato pie (not a dessert). Then loading the horses up for our annual Thanksgiving day ride. So my truck will get to work tomorrow, and you can bet I’m gettin thrown. Don’t have time to work him in the round pin tomorrow, so gotta suck it up and get ready to win some battles.

Sounds similar to what my truck did when the crankshaft positioning sensor went bad, but your 01’ might be different than my 2000. It threw a code though.

My truck is a 2011, I’m sure you know the early 4ths gens aren’t much in stock form. 13’-18’ I might not have deleted either. Not sure.

So it begins. 76K on my 4th gen. I know way less about it because it never gives me any problems to fix. I did the GDP grid heater delete/relocation. Valair Dual Disc, tuned, deleted. Thuren shocks, coils, control arms, leaf spring shackles. Bunch of other dopey stuff.

Thanks for the info guys. I’m trying to keep it tucked in pretty high and just behind the crossmember because I’m planning on installing an auxiliary trans cooler before next summer and want to mount the cooler behind the pump to avoid blowing hot air on the pump. I found a factory hole (5/8 or so) on the frame just behind the crossmember on my LWB. My plan is to bore one of the holes on the Vulcan bracket from 5/16 to 5/8 and mount it using the factory hole with a grade 8 5/8 bolt and nylon locking nut plus loctite. I think I’d prefer this vs drilling in the frame which the Vulcan kit says to do. So I’d have 1 big bolt vs 3 small ones.

Finally moving my Raptor FRRP to the frame rail. Using the Vulcan mounting bracket. Does it matter which direction the pump hangs? Not meaning vertical vs horizontal, but can the bracket be flipped so the pump “rests” on the bracket as opposed to hangs from it?

Had front left axle seal replaced last week, a few miles later the abs/brake light came on. Figured I’d drive and let it cycle a few times. Noticed some intermittent feedback in the brake pedal like abs was engaging. Light would go off after parked and come back on after a few miles. Also noticed a miss in acceleration followed by the abs light coming back on. Fuel pressure fine. Would an abs sensor issue explain the engine miss? Abs module was rebuilt a few years ago, rear speed sensor is new.

I believe if you load a smarty tune and then unload it/return to stock, the high idle feature remains. So if you have a friend with a Smarty you could hook it up to your truck, load a tune, then return to stock, and give it back to your friend. (Your friend would have to return to stock first so it’s not vin locked).

I used these guys for the cover. The owner has specific knowledge of our trucks. Worked out great. Got the cushion from Geno’s. https://leather-auto-seats.com

I definitely slathered it with anti-seize last time it was off so I’m not as worried about that part. It seems most have used a case spreader and a few other niche tools for this job. I went ahead and added the miracle leak stop, then cleaned everything up. I’ll give it a week. If that doesn’t stop it then I’ll just have to pony up and have a shop do it. Really wish I had some other stuff for them to do while the axle is gutted, but everything else is new.

Indeed Mike…$8 in parts, $692 in labor. Funny thing, we did the passenger side seal when I did my bearings and ball joints. Now I remember why we didn’t do the drivers side seal.

I noticed this yesterday. I’m not one to typically take short cuts, but wanted to see if anyone has ever tried this stuff and had any luck. https://gobdp.com/blog/fix-differential-leak/ The reason I’m considering trying it is I don’t have the time or tools to do it myself, and this being the front drivers side seal means the entire differential has to come out. It’s about a $700 job. Normally I’d use this as an opportunity to replace anything else that’s gotta come out for the job, but literally everything else is new (brake pads, calipers, wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods ect). Less than 20,000 miles ago. So my thought is for $20 I’d try it, I don’t see anything in this stuff that could hurt anything. Any thoughts are appreciated.

What makes the 2nd gen market complicated is the typical person looking at 2nd gen trucks doesn’t know the difference between my meticulously maintained and upgraded truck vs the clapped out truck next to me at the red light. Plus they’re old enough to be old, not old enough to be classic like the first gens. That truck that sold for 43K is neat and all, but I’d have more confidence towing a trailer from Tennessee to California and back in my 300K mile truck than a totally stock truck, with 20 year old stock parts…even with only 40K miles. In my area, 2nd gens are flooding the market between 10K-15K….3rd and 4th gens are selling high.

I tow with both, there’s no question the 4th gen is “better” but my 2nd gen is still my favorite. I’d never tow as much with my 2nd gen though mainly because mine doesn’t have an exhaust brake. In your case, it seems like you need more room, so a 4th gen or a 3rd gen mega cab is your best bet. Probably should see if the 21’ has had the CP4 recall done yet, looks like it’s turned into a hassle and long wait to get it done.

Someone will buy it and re-list it for 40K.

Does anyone have any experience with these guys or their turbos? https://instaspoolperformance.bigcartel.com/history-of-savage-fabrication I know the Borg stuff is newer technology, but I really REALLY like these guys’ story. They seem to care a lot about their craft and the product they build for their customers. I might be oversimplifying it, but it looks like he just remastered the he351cw and offers it as a true drop in replacement for the HX35.

@IBMobile if you happen to stumble across your heaters/wiring harness’s can you look and tell me where these red/blk wires are going or what they are terminating into?

Thanks for that. You think the Geno’s cushion is worth the $100 premium over the Amazon cushion?

My drivers side seat heater has never worked, I get the flash indicating a break in the circuit somewhere. I try to keep everything factory so I started working on fixing it yesterday. I couldn’t remember why I hadn’t done it sooner. Well I’m a jackass…now I remember why I never tackled this project. Long story, I’ve ordered a new bottom seat cover. Does anyone know of an aftermarket heat pad that will work with the factory module? Any suggestions on salvaging the oem pad or should I just suck it up and install an aftermarket pad with a new aftermarket switch?

Getting back to this. Had some other issues on the truck that needed to be addressed and now I’m ready to install the new injectors and s362 SXE. I’m having a little bit of buyers remorse, for 2 reasons: 1.) I’d like to stay around the 400hp range since the main use case for the truck is towing. 2.) I’m worried the 62/68/12 might be slightly too big and spool too late for me. With my 3.55’s and 33” tires, I’m wondering if I should have gone with the 57 or he351cw. Can the 362 and 7x.010’s (Weston Shupe) be tuned enough with my adrenaline to achieve a close to stock spool, and keep things under 450hp, or am I asking too much?