Andyba20

The one in my 4th Gen is PN 5292712. I am pretty sure the stock tstat is 200* and the one I got is 190*. Only reason I got the 190 is bc it was what the local cummins dealer had in stock. It’s been good. It was like $50-$100. Shocked the dealer would want $250… FYI, it looks like the 200* is PN 5292724. If all of his emissions are still intact he might want the 200*, but I’ve never really heard any convincing arguments to make me worry about the 10* difference, I just went with what was in stock locally at the time.

The sand and polish is exactly what I’m gonna do. That looks really good 👍

On average I’ve heard it adds 40hp, and chicks dig it.

I think I’ll paint my valve cover while it’s off for the head studs install. I don’t really care about the looks too much, but if it’s easy enough I was thinking of using the same color of the truck which is patriot blue pearl. I can’t find that exact color in high temp. Will regular Dupli Color Exact Match spray paint work if I use a high temp primer and high temp clear coat? I’ll probably sand blast it to clean up the flaky oem paint.

I always forget how nice having good lighting when backing up is until mine go out.

Spent the past few weeks going through my truck and getting ahead of maintenance items (new battery cables, end links, leaf spring shackles, fluid, filters). Now to the fun stuff. Sitting in boxes on the kitchen table are a set of Infinite Performance SAC 7x.010’s, ARP 2000’s, Quad Adrenaline, Vulcan big line kit, and draw straw. I’m being offered a good deal on a Smedding 62/65/12 HX40. This is a tow/daily driver. I don’t need to tow 30,000lbs, but my goal is to make the truck tow within its designed limits better than it does now. Will this turbo hit the mark? And regarding the sac injectors, should I expect haze at idle? I’m ok with a light haze, but hoping it’s not obnoxiously smokey. My hx35 is fine for now, and I wasn’t really planning on a turbo upgrade, but the hx40 came to me so I’m considering it since I’m doing everything else.

You might go ahead and replace your rear shocks since you’ve got easier access to the passenger side rear now.

They are one of the dealers I called. They don’t know either. I went ahead and ordered the ARP studs. The only thing I know for sure about Xotic is they are cheaper. Consumers really need to stop waiving the white flag so easily. I can’t think of any other product that costs nearly $300 that makes it this hard for their customers to contact them or are so unwilling to disclose where their product is made. You can tell yourself whatever you want, but the only reason anyone would order the Xotic set at this point is because they’re cheaper. And if they fail, it’s not just the $300 you lose, it’s the 2K for a head job.

I can’t even find an email for them. I called a couple of the vendors they have listed on the site and none of them knew where the studs were made either. What are they hiding? Is it just the stigma of having their product made in China? I have no idea. If Xotic reads this let us know guys…can’t send you my money when I know nothing about your company. My research leads me to believe the CEO of Xotic is Haji Siddiq…so Haji, let us know what’s up dude.

Doing research the past few days and was intrigued by the Xotic studs, mainly bc I think ARP is overpriced. Tried to reach out to Xotic, but they have no live phone support. Used their online chat support and talked to “David” in the Philippines. Asked “David” a few questions which were answered with links to the Xotic website, then asked where the studs were manufactured and David abruptly ended the chat. I was able to track down the parent company and CEO information, but by then I’d made up my mind to buy the proven, and American made ARP’s. Btw, the parent company address on Google earth shows up as a muffler shop at an industrial park in eastern Canada. Xotic might be just fine, but their clandestine approach lost my business.

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories. Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery So when using the studs on the PDC for accessory power, is the rule of thumb not to exceed 140 amps (fuse size). If I got a larger fuse could I move my grid heater wires to the PDC stud? I had some 2 gauge welding cable leftover from another cut that I’ve mocked up to replace the old battery to PDC cable. Much larger than the (6 gauge?) that was original. Just used it to save me a trip into town.

The left rear of the truck, about a foot behind the taillight, is where the relay hangs. Every time the lights go out, I check and the relay is rusted, I swap in a new one and good again. That whole area seems to get more water and grit from the road than the other side. I have very little to no rust on the truck, but the leaf spring shackle on that same side is rusted bad…the other side is fine.

Thanks guys. So I have auxiliary reverse lights, and I go through relays every 6 months, including “waterproof” relays. The current lights are halogen. If I switch to LED auxiliary lights can I just run them straight off the purple reverse wire (currently triggering the relay)? I’d use an online fuse.

Thanks @Mopar1973Man. Next question, I am moving all of my accessory power lugs on the left battery to the stud in the PDC as I’ve heard others on the forum suggest to clean things up. Should I increase the size of the cable from the battery to the PDC? Can I use both studs (the positive from the battery and the old b+ alternator wire stud that’s now empty after WT mod.

What’s going on here? First question, steering gear/ pitman arm. Should the teeth be showing? I’m guessing not. It’s torqued to 185f/lb.

Quick update, I’ve got the boost back to normal, but still not sure what numbers I’m getting, and here is why. After driving myself crazy trying to figure out why I’m still only showing 10psi on my gauge I tested the boost bolt one last time with soapy water and when I wiggled it around it started making bubbles right where the nylon hose goes into the compression fitting. Not sure where to find a replacement fitting, but might just go with a different set up than the boost bolt. Not done yet, but thanks to everyone that helped me troubleshoot this.

This is what it looks like installed.

It’s a 5mm gap…it’s not a struggle, buts it’s snug. My theory is they are selling a 32mm bushing with a larger split to get it over the 34mm bar.

What should have been a 15 minute maintenance job has turned into hours of frustration. Leave it to me. Putting in new suspensionmaxx end links and figured I’d replace the 22 year old sway bar bushings while I was at it. Measured my sway bar, 34mm. Ok, go to parts store, figure even they can’t mess up non critical bushings too bad. They send me home with a set. Huge gap, 5mm, called the parts store they said it’s normal. I’ve never done a feasibility study on polyurethane, but I don’t think these are right, no way they’ll torque closed. Even online all I can find are 30, 32, and sometimes 33mm bushings for these trucks. I. Really don’t think it’s an aftermarket bar. Anyone have a lead on a proper set of bushings, and anyone else have a 34mm sway bar? Btw, the old bushings were fine, I should have left them alone.

Pop or clunk? I’m replacing my sway bar end links and sway bar bushings right now.

I bet she knows all about him. The clip below is THE moment he realizes he believes. Pretty incredible, and he’s been on fire ever since. Very recent. About a minute in is where it happens. https://youtu.be/jH-7WLUUYOU

The Canadian truckers are wreaking havoc and the weak leaders in Canada and the US have no idea how to stop them. It’s a beautiful site. Side note, did y’all remember to get your chickenpox booster? I’d recommend you read/watch every thing Jordan Peterson is doing right now. He’s a world renowned psychologist and has recently been red pilled and had a spiritual awakening. Literally can’t do an interview without breaking into tears over Jesus and the cross. Interesting to watch. He’s a brilliant man.

I haven’t watched a minute of the Olympics either, mainly because I have been glued to women’s Ivy League swimming. Penn has this girl named Lia Thomas, she is having a really great season. Definitely one to watch in the coming years, I predict big things from her.

It’s just forward of the fuel tank. I’ll get under there tomorrow and see where it goes.

I’m putting my subscription to work tonight. What is/was this?