Andyba20

Is there a preferred brand to replace with? I’ve always been intrigued with the braided stainless hoses but they don’t seem to get much love on here. Btw-had a local shop check my brakes for me not 3 weeks ago while I was in for another repair. Said everything was good. Yikes.

This is my passenger side brake hose. I guess my question is, a.) anybody had this happen? Did I hit something? On full lock it’s rubbing a metal line. B.) what would you recommend I replace with?

I’ve personally seen these things in real world use, and they work. I bought one (not this brand, an Amazon brand), used it once…long story short it got snowed on, snow melted, then it stopped working. My fault, but life happens. But it’s pretty amazing what these little packs can do. https://www.hulkman.com/products/alpha100?variant=39387734966444&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImu3q7Juw9QIV7SlMCh03MAg-EAQYAiABEgKmefD_BwE

I appreciate the wisdom, fellas. It does seem good old fashioned experience is more helpful with these types of things than “charts”. Also, those lithium ion jump starter packs are the way of the future, I’m just the worlds worst at losing or breaking stuff like that. Jumper cables aren’t as convenient but they are somewhat harder to lose and somewhat harder to destroy.

Follow if you can… I have a Ramsey worm gear winch rated at max 280 amp draw Winch originally came with #4 awg cable Charts say #4 cable good for 100 amps at 9.4 feet I am installing Anderson power pole SB175 quick connectors to be used with the winch and homemade #1 awg jumper cables. (Passenger battery with connector by the grill at the bumper) Chart says #1 cable good to 200 amps SB175 good for 175 continuous amps according to Anderson. Largest size cable compatible with SB175 is 1/0…but charts say 1/0 good for 300 amps at 8 ft…this is well beyond the 175 amp rating. So I’ve got a winch that will draw 280 amps that came factory with #4 cable which is only rated for 100 amps. A 175A connector that is compatible with 1/0 gauge cable that is rated up to 300 amps. I have #1 awg cable good to 200 amps. This is why people go rogue…more disinformation than the CCP virus. None of it adds up. I guess this 12vdc stuff is more of an art than a science. Now, I’m guessing the whole “continuous draw” thing is the key here, and Anderson does say the SB175 can handle higher loads, but that’s pretty vague. (How much higher and for how long?) They do make a larger SB350, but most of the accessories I see myself using with the quick connectors are smaller and wouldn’t be compatible with the larger SB350 housing/contacts (winch with #2 cable, #1 jumper cables, inverter, etc) Anybody using the quick connects like this? Tips and best practices appreciated.

6 years ago a bad storm came through my town and my power was out for 8 days. I learned some things about myself. What did I miss the most? Wasn’t tv, or lights, or the refrigerator…it was hot showers. Gah that was miserable. A week later I added a backup generator that will run my entire house…haven’t had to use it one single time. Oh well.

I’m extremely sympathetic to issues a lot of business’s are facing right now, and patient about it. I had to call 4 times, and each time it was a new contradicting story. The truth was it’s a $20 order that they or the usps messed up and they’ve got more profitable things to do. 34 days since placing the order and “they’re sending out another one asap”. I’m not ready to blast them on the internet yet, not my style. They didn’t “screw me” it’s just frustrating to get lied to. They’d be much better off with me by saying “aah man we messed it up, gonna get you taken care of asap and here’s a 15% code for your next order”

Haha oh just you wait…this comment won’t age well lol. Worth it though dude, enjoy it.

Thank you. That’s the one I got, just double checking since I’ve already held this guy up enough this morning. Not happy with Napa, and there is a vendor this website promotes that has been stringing me along for a month on a $20 part and it still hasn’t arrived. Keep calling and getting contradicting “updates”.

Kind of in a pinch here. The PS pump came and my mechanic called and said it’s bent all to hell. So the truck is up on his lift, a replacement is at least 48 hours away. Between Napa, Oreilly, Autozone, and advance what is my best bet for finding a seal kit? Can someone tell me the exact kit I need? The Napa guy here couldn’t find it.

Came outside a few days ago and there was a 1/2 quart of ps fluid on the driveway (truck was idling). Ordered a brand new pump with reservoir from Napa and having a guy install it this week. Did I read something on here one time about a vacuum pump seal having to be replaced along with replacing the PS pump? Also, can’t say I fully I fully understand the hydroboost system, are there any considerations my mechanic should know while he’s doing this job? I’ll be keeping the old pump as a backup and rebuilding with a seal kit, just didn’t have time to fool with it right now so bought a new one. Any tips I can pass along to this old guy would be appreciated. Goal is to get another 300K from this new pump.

You sure it’s not from the starter?

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Assuming you’re pressure is good try to start it and see if it happens again. Sounds like a fuel leak maybe. I haven’t experienced that with mine yet, the smarter guys will chime in I’m sure. I did get air in the system running under 1/4 tank one time but I had to crack my injectors to start it back up.

I’ll go ahead and ask a few things the other guys will want to know to help narrow it down. What year is your truck? Can you pull any codes? Are the batteries fresh? Stock lift pump? How much fuel in the tank when it happened? And has it happened again since?

Are you trying to open the PDF on an iPhone? I just opened it without any issue on my iPhone. (Annoying how often instructions are “accidentally” left out)

You should get all of your diesel buddies together, load up your truck beds with containers of tea, form a caravan through London, and dump all the containers in the River Thames. I’ve read something similar happened over here a few years ago, near Boston I believe? Seemed to work for them. As far as Rovers go, I put them in the same category as BMW, Audi, and Benz. They’re beautiful machines and have some incredible qualities, but fail miserably at being reliable. Years ago I decided to buy a car (sedan) because I was traveling so much for work. Test drove all the big body luxury sedans and ended up buying my least favorite, the Lexus LS460. The BMW 7 series crushed it in every way except 1.) reliability and 2.)ride comfort driving in a straight line on the interstate. 12 years and 142K later, nothing but oil changes, and is perfect. Also, 6 months ago Lexus replaced my interior on a good will recall that I didn’t even know about. The rep proactively reached out and offered it.

I’ve always wondered if you could mount a dual electric fan set up on the front side (condenser/trans cooler) as pusher fans, and then another dual set on the back side as puller fans in place of the stock mechanical fan/shroud. I have a flex a lite 16” on my 4th gen as an auxiliary for stop/go in the summer. It definitely doesn’t move air like the belt driven fan, but maybe 4 of them teaming up could? Of course after you factor in the cost, time, wiring, and power upgrades needed, the juice might not be worth the squeeze. Either way I’m a fan of having an electric auxiliary fan, especially for the 2nd gen auto trans cooler for things like idling through a field on a 100 degree day in July loading hay on a gooseneck flatbed. That was the only time I’ve ever had my transmission temp light come on. Shifting to low range usually negates that, but having air move over the cooler even with a little 8” fan helps.

Cruising unloaded my egt’s are around 600, towing my horse trailer loaded through the hills around here I rarely see over 950-1000, but I control them with my left foot. The housing looks stock to me, and the badge says HX35…definitely looks like the one in the link you posted but without the wastegate.

I don’t believe the HY hit the scene until 2001, I’m the 3rd owner so it’s quite possibly not the original turbo though. I agree on ruling out electrical/tuner issues before doing upgrades.

I’d be happy with a solid 35 psi, just can’t get there as is today. My plan has always been to replace with RV275 when the time comes, but maybe I’ll go a little bigger. Like always though, I prefer reliability to performance.

I guess an Adrenaline is on deck. What considerations would you take in tuning this turbo vs the hx35w yours with the Adrenaline?

My 2000 has a non wastegated HX35. I rarely see over 10-12 psi, if I’m loaded heavy I might see 18-19. I’m gonna dig in and see where my issues is (test for boost leaks, adjust the Smarty). Anyone running a true HX35 like this? Was this even available on a 24V auto in 2000? I’ve never seen over 20 psi loaded down at wot. Feel like I’m missing some cheap performance somewhere. Stock injectors. Raptor LP.

@wil440 thanks for the explanation, very cool. The shop I used is local, called Utility Laboratories in Knoxville. Kind of a neat story, the founder was a nuclear scientist at the Oak Ridge Nuclear Lab and invented the machine they use like 35 years ago. His nephew runs it now and the way he explained it the sample is blasted through a flame and measured by the color of the flame? Nice guy, though he’s worried his market is dwindling quickly with all the non petroleum based vehicles that are taking over, especially fleets.

Have any of you ever had an oil analysis performed? Curious what others have gotten back. Can’t say I fully understand the report or what the thresholds should be, but the guy who did it seemed surprised at how good everything looked at nearly 300K and 3,400 miles on the oil. Rotella 15w40 and Mopar filter.

America is not a Christian nation and hasn’t been for a long time (if ever). It’s easy to become cynical when you see how many selfish, ungrateful people this country has now. But, I will definitely continue to pray for an awakening. Many days I just want to throw my hands up and quit trying, but I try to focus on the few good, innocent, sweet, patriotic American’s left and I’m encouraged to fight the good fight and finish the race. There will be a time for righteous indignation and a few of these evil worms to get smacked in the face. You’ll know when it’s time.