Andyba20

I agree the 5100’s ride stiff, but they are the only one’s I’ve had on the front that haven’t blown out. I have a heavy front bumper like yours, and between that and our straight up and down mountain roads with pot holes everywhere, and the rutted out curvy old dirt logging roads I’ve blown 2 shocks on 2 different part store sets, both times towing heavy on rough steep roads. The 5100’s seem more robust knock on wood. Also, it took about 7,000 miles to break mine in, they did soften a little. For what it’s worth, the ride is honestly about the same on my 4th Gen 3500 with Thuren shocks and coils.

This morning my truck wouldn’t shift into 4th gear without letting off the throttle, actually got worse as the truck got warmer. Then, it almost stalled at a red light, and I realized it hadn’t downshifted to 1st. Checked the trans oil (less than 3,000 miles) and it’s good and dark red, but smells burnt. Wanted to get a good list from the forum of things to check before I send it to a shop. This is 3 weeks post WT mod, which IMHO has been the single best mod I’ve done to the truck. No codes. I’m going to reset the TIMBO apps.

If the crankcase vent was clogged or had a partial blockage would/could it cause higher oil pressure?

Got it all finished and put back together. Massive improvement in shifting, and no TC lock/unlock at all…Only annoying issue was Nations somehow had put the wrong pulley on the alternator I got. In their defense they were cool about it, and answered the phone on the first ring each time I called. They sent me a replacement pulley (which wasn’t the nice anodized billet pulley in the picture they have on the website, but whatever). Both batteries are putting out exactly 13.84 at idle, and I haven’t done the parallel cables yet, though I think I probably will.

Well I’ll be dadgum..I guess I’ll lose the fuse, and hit the welding store tomorrow for some parallel cables. I’m no buffoon, we’ll i am, but I won’t be In the case.

First @W-T Thanks for the reply, and thanks again for pioneering this solution. I thought I’d read every single article and post on this mod over the past 6 months, but I don’t think I ever saw you specifically not endorse the b+ wire fuse. You left it out for a reason, can you share?

Posted this in the article comments earlier, but figured I’d get more opinions by starting a new thread. Doing the W-T mod this week, wanted to check in one final time and see if there were any new updates or changes to the mod I should know. I am putting in a new Nations 180 amp alternator too. Any suggestions on best place to mount the 200amp fuse holder for the b+ wire? Did Mike/W-T’s biblical like Paul vs Barnabus disagreement about the parallel cables ever get settled? I don’t want to run 4 giant cables across my radiator, but I really really don’t want a fire, or toasted alternator. Mike still says no need for parallel cables as long as grounds are all good/clean/solid. I might take a hybrid approach and at least add a ground cable…I do use a winch off the passenger side battery.

Doing the W-T mod this week, wanted to check in one final time and see if there were any new updates or changes to the mod I should know. I am putting in a new Nations 180 amp alternator too. Any suggestions on best place to mount the 200amp fuse holder for the b+ wire? Did Mike/W-T’s biblical like Paul vs Barnabus disagreement about the parallel cables ever get settled? I don’t want to run 4 giant cables across my radiator, but I really really don’t want a fire, or toasted alternator.

I always thought the guys racing in the desert at night used yellow to mitigate reflection from all the dust, but I guess snow has a similar effect Bc I couldn’t see anything the few times I tried to use my white led’s in heavy snow. What inspired me to light up my truck like a spaceship was one night I was headed back to east TN from Nashville, snow storm hit as I was coming over the Cumberland Plateau, and you couldn’t see 2 feet in front of you. We don’t get much snow here, so people drive like circus monkeys when we do. Cars were everywhere, stopping in the middle of the road, off in the ditch, pure mania. Couldn’t see semi taillights either except for one rig that had LED taillights. Went straight home and put the brightest biggest LED tail lights I could find on my horse trailer. It was eye opening to see how quickly snow can block out light just a few feet away.

My Lexus has HID’s and they are the best lights I’ve ever driven with. That said, in inclement weather I really prefer and still keep warmer (3700k) halogens on both of my trucks. It may be my eyes, it may be where I live (great smoky mountains) but to me when it’s raining, snowing, or foggy and pitch black way back on some road in the middle of the woods, the warmer lights just cut through everything better. I have rigid led cubes on my bumper, and switched them to yellow too. I found I just get more use from them that way. And, the sport lights are much better with the stern harness than they are stock (sport or regular) My cousin has factory sport headlights and we compared, it was a huge difference. I run the basic 9004/9007’s for longevity, I have 55w KC flood lights, 100w KC spotlights, and the rigid led cubes if I ever need more light on some backcountry road. It doesn’t get below 10 degrees here very often, but I can’t imagine snow sticking to those 100w KC’s, you could fry an egg on those things.

I haven’t heard of anyone having much success with the plug and play LED’s, but maybe you have something new I don’t know about. Do a search for “Daniel Stern Ram Headlight harness” I went through 3 aftermarket kits that were all terrible before I tried Stern and it’s been well worth the money. The only suggestion he made that I didn’t follow was he recommends ordering Ram sport factory assemblies through Mopar, but I found factory spec assemblies on eBay that have been perfect. I think maybe for a long time the Chinese eBay assemblies didn’t last and oxidized pretty bad, and that’s why he strongly suggests oem through mopar. The ones I got were 1/5 the factory Mopar price. Easy install and a major major improvement over the factory lights.

Yea I agree, I just hate to ditch the stock injectors since they have such little mileage, plus I’ve had the 13’-18’ dual fuel filter setup on the truck for most of its life…it’s been 70,000 clean miles for sure.

I was hoping you wouldn’t say that, Mike. Your clinical perfectionism has cost me thousands over the years (and yes I know, probably saved me thousands in the long run)

Guys, about to order a stock/475 setup for my 2011. Fully tuned/deleted with GDP grid heater relocate. My truck only has 70,000 miles, been meticulously maintained. Pretty much all deleted miles. Considering 60% over nozzles just based on reading what others on the forum have done. Not looking for huge power, mainly interested in better towing, reliability, longevity. The trans is a built G56. With only 70K on the stock injectors I’m wondering y’all’s opinion on just doing nozzles. Would be a lot less expensive obviously.

As the OP I am happy to have a thread hijacked for patriotic purposes. I’m researching AR500 steel door panels right now anyway. I’ll bring it back around when I have more info.

Well @JAG1 she ain’t much to look at it, but here’s her channel. Definitely an Eastern Kentucky/Southwest Virginia accent.

Same here. No Facebook, and I’ve cut back about 95% on news Bc it’s all just gossip. On a lighter note@Dieselfuture I noticed your Formula. I’ve got a Formula 357SR. Headed to dewinterize it tomorrow. Most fun boat I’ve ever owned, but gotta sell it.

All the reloaders here have plenty of brass, can’t get primers. Also, as a nation we have grown accustomed and numb to the gun grab threats throughout political cycles over the years, but this one is different gentlemen. It’s gonna happen as fast as it did with the non emissions compliant tuners. Overnight. As long as we can still get a cheeseburgers at McDonalds for 99 cents the vast majority of the population won’t do a thing to push back on losing liberties.

Good rant! Now...where are you buying ammo? Bc there’s none left in TN...haven’t spent much time at the range lately Bc I’m scared to let go of the rounds I have.

That’s a good idea. I have a pretty stout ranch hand bumper on the front already with a receiver hitch..might fab a battering Ram up for it...

Haha I have a lifetime “permit” but as of recently you no longer require a “permit” to have a loaded firearm in your vehicle in the state of Tennessee. I’d almost rather be shot than have to shoot another person, but I can’t think of anything more terrible than helplessly watching the ones you love be harmed. That’s why I am and will always have a way to defend those around me.

Happening right in front of us daily...I’ll tell you what got me thinking about stuff like this-Last summer a guy was towing his horses through Oklahoma, 95 degree day. Antifa blocked the interstate and shut down traffic. If anyone has ever been in an aluminum horse trailer in 95 degree heat you know it gets unbearable quickly and horses can die without airflow from movement. This dude tries to go around the protesters (wife and kids in the truck), the antifa crazies flipped out and surrounded his vehicle then one of them threw a smoke bomb into his trailer (I’ve heard it killed one of his horses). I’d never in my life considered a situation like that, but after I saw it I went and had fans installed in my horse trailer. So while I don’t anticipate ever being shot at or unnecessarily putting myself in a high risk situation to be shot at, I am taking some measures to mitigate vulnerabilities and risks.

Same reason the police wear body armor to protect vital organs but don’t wear steel boots or an iron man helmet. Just wondering what others might do with $1,000 if they wanted to add a little protection to their trucks. Feel free to get creative.

Agreed. I’m thinking of the most vital areas....Kevlar panels for the driver/passenger door. 1/4 or 3/8 steel panel to cover the radiator. Never priced bulletproof glass...never thought I’d need to...defund the police I gotta fund my build.

I’m thinking about lightly armoring my truck. Not trying to make it bomb proof, just trying to increase my ability to stay safe against small arms fire. If you were going to spend $1,000 on this, how would you spend it?