afgunn

Thanks to all! I pulled the bezel today and disconnected the wires and put it all back! All without any new cracks. Now that I have done it, I know how to do it. Isn't that always the way it is!?

http://www.oilcrusher.5u.com/ I replied on a previous thread and was not sure I could find the link but I did, above. This farmer has done his homework AND has empirical data to back it up! After reading this guy's info I would never recommend WVO or SVO to anyone. And I understand the problems with Biodiesel as well. The problem with almost ALL Biodiesel is that they also use WVO - what % - who knows!? Yes, I know they process it but this guy has tested Biodiesel and has found SALT in ALL of it! Salt + heat + close tolerance = big, expensive trouble! Salt can come from fried foods AND animal fat. Yes, you may be OK if you do not tow or haul taxing and heating up your engine... but if you do?! Look out! He has some case examples. I highly recommend reading this guys research!

I have 4" MBRP resonator and muffler on a straight system and happy with it. It will start to drone at about 2100 rpm! I think it would be too loud without the resonator.

I rebuilt some ONE time and then discovered that I could buy the rebuilt ones for only a little more than the kit and save myself a lot of time and frustration. I like to do my own work but I also like to save a lot of time... I already have a full time job.

Yep, I have 3 or 4 cracks in the dash already. If I crack the bezel I guess I will replace it and the dash at the same time!

I have read on several forum of guys doing this for years with WVO or Virgin Oil at a rate of 20 to 30%. I am using an additive of 1:4 gasoline to Virgin Oil at a rate of 128:1 to the diesel fuel. Have seen no problems and no increase in mpg either. I have a lot of info on a farmer in the Mid West pressing his own oil and mixing with gasoline to get the same specific weight of diesel at a given temperature. Has been doing it for years in his trucks and equipment. Says this is the big secret in getting the Virgin Oil to run well. He has done a lot of research and has a lot of empirical data. Esp. data AGAINST using WVO. Here is the farmer's link. I HIGHLY recommend reading his research! http://www.oilcrusher.5u.com/

Anyone tried this in their truck, added to the fuel that is? I had an extra quart the other day so I dumped it in when I filled up so it would be right at 128:1. I got .5 to .8 mpg more than I ever have before! Anyone got any thoughts or explanations? There was no 2-cycle in the tank at all, not even a trace! As I understand it, ATF+4 is fully synthetic.

Straight through MBRP Resonator and Muffler - not sure of the length of the muffler. Quiet enough but will start to drone at about 2100 RPM. Nice and quiet at 1500 - 1600 RPM.

I have the manual but it is "woefully inadequate" in its description of how to remove the Cluster Bezel.Where do you pry, which way and what "tool" do you use to "gently pry" around the perimeter?Does the "band" that joins the cluster bezel to the dash come off or stay?Do you pry between the cluster bezel and the "band"?

I have just install a QuadZilla Scout and am monitoring the CAI temp. I have noticed a 40* to 45*F difference between the overhead temp to the CAI. I agree with all that has been said here. I am planning on removing my "snorkel" to the fender and possibly blocking the hole in the fender well - all while comparing the temps.

Took a 3 hour drive Saturday (mostly at 70 mph) and checked the temps.Transmission pan - 115*FTransfer Case - 138*FBoth are well below the 200*F point where the change interval starts to get shortened.

Draw Straw V is the way to go!

Thanks for your reply and the info! I should have said "shortened life" or "drain interval". I read that the replacement interveral is shorteded when the oil gets above 175*F but it is not shortened by much at 200*F. And... I was not thinking of synthetic or partial synthetics. I got the chart here: http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm

Again, went for a drive of about 50 min. - 50% at 60mph and the rest stop and go at 45mph. Checked the temperature of the Transfer Case and it was 130*F which is well below the 175*F point at which ATF-4 starts to break down. So, I think I am OK. Just surprised it gets that hot but some heat may be coming from the trans.

Anyone know where I can get a 2002 Dodge Ram Truck Repair Manual for the vehicle in the sig? I need the original Dodge manual since I am looking at wiring. The CHEAPER the better!I have the 2001 manual from our "Sister Site" but the wiring and other things ARE different. e.g., I do not have a CAD, 4WD wiring is different, etc.Thanks!

Thanks! Exactly what I need!

I used the ATF-4 fluid that is recommended. I did not look at the fluid close because I was so distracted - cleaning up an unexpected mess! It did look somewhat dark though. Do not know if there were any shiny particles though - no large chunks for sure. The rear bearing in the tail housing was replaced since I was putting on a different setup.I plan on changing the fluid again this fall in order to get a good flush.It was my thought as well that it is not driven but it is turning. I expected it to be only mildly warm. Also, someone mentioned that heat from the trans could be transfering into the transfer case since they are mechanically connected. I did not check the temperature of the trans case - just the pan.Next time I think I will check the temp with a temp probe. I was just hoping someone had some first hand experience. I wish I did! Wish I had checked these temps before I did any work - just had no idea!

Just changed the fluid in the Transfer Case in sig below and went for a drive of about 50 min. - 50% at ~60mph and the rest stop and go at 45mph. The transfer case was hot - just a little too hot to keep your hand on it but not as hot as the auto trans pan. Is this about right? I thought the Transfer Case would be cooler since it is was in 2H and not actually being driven (as in 4L or 4H) - although it is a live axle!? Did another drive on the Interstate for ~ 1 hour. Transfer case was too hot to keep hand on and was hotter that the trans pan!Is any of this normal? I do REALLY want to know!?

Here is the thread: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpf ... hp?t=24253 or here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showth ... p?t=103211 Well, I see the neither link will work unless you are a member. You can join either for free! Pictures are in the 5th post down. On the CTD, I am thinking of using 2" or 3" black drainage pipe to make the condenser with an end cap for the bottom and a screw in cleanout for the top. With the inlet tube flush with the bottom of the cleanout and enough extending out the top to attach the current hose. The outlet tube should be about 50-75% toward the bottom of the condenser with screen wire over the bottom to hold the BBs and extending out the top to the point where I would put a 90 to go toward the turbo input. I would put all the BBs in this outlet tube, should be tall enough to put as many BBs as needed! If the connection between the condenser and turbo input can be angled upward, great - any further condensation would run back to the jar! The inlet and outlet tubes should be as large as possible to allow free flow - 1/2" or larger would probably work. Remember, we will not be working with much vacuum here. A venturi connection to the turbo input would help as well. Hopefully, the condenser could be mounted where the current collector is?! The 98 chevrolet was a little easier since it was already sucking the vapors in ahead of the turbo so, all the connections were already there and I just inserted the condenser inline but there was no real good place to mount it. One guy in the thread mentioned that the condenser might keep the sludge from accumulating in the bottom of his IC. I have the pictures but I do not know how to post pictures here..., Mr. Administrator ` .

Yes, the original article claimed a distillation effect, breaking down the complex hydrocarbons into simpler ones - especially when using copper plated BBs and the engine being able to burn the simpler hydrocarbons. I have never held to this idea but have been very impressed by the condensation of the heavier oil fumes, the cleaner burning and cleaner crankcase oil - in the gasoline engine that I have it on. Some sludge had condensed out of the 93 6.2 diesel that I had it on but the oil was still turning black - probably because I had not flushed the oil system. The 98 6.5TD that I had it on was keeping the oil clean after I flushed the oil system but I never checked the accumulation of sludge in the condenser because I sold the truck to my brother who then traded it in before I knew it. I would have liked to have removed the condenser! `:(I will be making and installing one on the 02 I have now (to replace the infamous sludge jar) and will report back here on the results. It will be awhile though. I am impressed that there is a bout 2K miles on the current oil change and the oil is not discolored much. :thumbsup

When I said the oil in the Ranger was only a dark honey color after 7000 miles that was very, very different for that engine. It had never, never done that before! And by mistake it had gone 7000 miles instead of 5000. The oil continues to be clean between changes and the "sludge jar" has about 1/3 cup of dark something (does not smell like gasoline) with brown sludge in the bottom.

Here is an excellent article, by someone who knows, on oil, filters, antifreeze and gear lube. What he says is why I WILL and AM using synthetic oils. http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

I am seeing and experiencing the problems all of you are talking about with the current stock crankcase vent and bottle. I am thinking about trying what I call a crankcase vapor condenser. I do not think it would work in those situations where the down hill angle would cause the oil to flow out. Following is a posting and update that I have put on a different diesel forum. OK! OK! Don't laugh me off the site! And I have the empirical proof! Unfortunately, I am not able to find the link any more, if I do I will post it. Basically, you make a condensation jar and put it inline of your PCV vacuum. For us GM dieselers this would be inline with our CDR. I have had one on my daughter's 92 Ford Ranger (my previous truck) for a few months. We have not seen ANY increase in mileage, and did not expect any even though they mentioned you would. And the first time I checked the jar there was about 1/4 cup of very dark oil/fuel. It did NOT smell at all of gas! So, I ignored it. The oil was changed and the other day I happened to check her oil. It was as clean as FRESH oil! And it had been about 1200 miles! Never, never seen that before on that vehicle! I am impressed and will continue to monitor it and report. By mistake (my daughter's mistake) HER '92 Ranger went 7000 miles on the last oil change and the oil on the dip stick was still only a dark honey color. There was about 1 cup of really black oil? in the sludge jar with some moisture and the beginning of sludge in the bottom. I am convinced - at least on a older gaser. Never, never seen that before on this truck. And currently, it is running smoother and the spark plugs are staying cleaner. After seeing what it did for the Ranger and seeing how black and how quick my truck's oil goes black, today I put the sludge jar on the Silverado. Again not expecting much. Some black oilly stuff in the tube and hose connections. Started up and checked for vacuum leaks - none - of course, very low vaccum at idle. Now, I start up and drive to work. After 3 miles, the engine quiets down like I have never heard before - down the road and a idle! At idle the engine is quiet and smooth! It is scarry! Something BAD must be about to happen! When I got to work, about 12 miles, I left the engine idling and popped the hood to check for something leaking or broke but, everything was fine - just a smoother, quieter running engine! It will be interesting to see how the truck starts up and runs tonight after work. It has started well in the 6 weeks I have had the truck. The quieter operation of the 98 6.5TD turned out to be old diesel vs fresh diesel. The sludge jar on the 92 Ranger gasser is still there and still working very well, keeping the oil basically clean between 5000 mile changes. Collecting about 1/4 cup dark black something and some brown sludge in the bottom - oil and water obviously. I never got to fully check out the operation of the sludge jar on the 98 because I sold it to my brother who traded it for a newer Duramax!? I have subsequently put one on the 93 Silverado 6.2L diesel (no turbo) I have and can report that after about 2000 miles there was about 2 tablespoons of black syrup in the bottom. The oil is still rather black though. Probably because the crankcase, oil cooler and engine have not been fully flushed and I probably have some blow-by in this 93 with 184K miles - still runs very good though! I am going to try one of these on the 02 2500 CTD that I now own. But it may take me a while. If anyone is game I will send pictures and help with description. I will have to plumb into the intake pre turbo and the BBs (or steel gauze) should condense out the majority (all?) of the vapors that would coat or gum up the turbo like it does on the older 6.5 TDs on the Chevrolets. I have pictures but do not know how to attach them here. I do not know if the link below will work but there are images in the 4th entry down. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=24253&highlight=sludge