Zukifreek

Thanks Mopar1973man. I bet the other sensor is seeing a cool enough temp to kick the grids on briefly. What ohm resistance did you plug in your IAT sensor? One more question, the Comp manual didn't really say but when you push the grey button and turn the LEDs off is that stock mode? Even on level 1 and 2 it feels way more powerful than the D box did. Can't wait to tap the pump tomorrow night and try 3 and 4.....OK I'll try 5 too but I'm not wanting to rebuild my auto

So I just got my used Edge comp box installed and took it for a test drive. I haven't put the stealth cover on yet so pump isn't tapped yet. When I got home after test drive I shut it off and restarted it. The voltage was dropping down and then coming back so I got a testlight and checked the heater grids. It was turning them on one at a time for at least a minute or longer. The engine was fully warmed up and at halfway on the gauge. Is this normal? I have never really paid attention to it before. Could the Comp box be causing this? Where is the Air intake temp sensor located? I may clean or replace it.

Now I found a Edge Comp box with stealth plate used for $350. It's 2 hours away.... I have to stop messing with this truck

I was wondering about that. So there is enough diesel residue in the cavity that the new o ring doesn't snag up when pushing the tube back in?

I got the new "o" rings for the transfer tubes. I maybe should have picked up a valve cover gasket, but I think they are reuseable. I never checked if the injectors come with the copper or brass washers but I think they do??? I'm going to set the valves when I'm in there also. I think I'll paint the valve cover intense blue like the truck while its off just to be different. I watched pepsioceans youtube video on doing the injector swap, but I think I'm going to try to do them without taking the hardlines off the pump end. For sure I'm doing his garbage bag idea to keep crud from falling into the engine from the insulation on the firewall. - - - Updated - - - Hey War Eagle I noticed in you sig that you are running the HX35/40 hybrid. How do you like it? Is it slower to spool up than the HX35 was? I can notice my HX spools slower than the HY did and wondering if the hybrid would be worse yet??

Did you notice much difference with the injectors? Do you have a programmer?

I just got done ordering some RV275s from DAP. They have some really good prices and offered free shipping to Canada. I couldn't go wrong. I can't wait to see how much better it will run with them. My injectors are stock and have 456,000kms on them. I hope my auto trans is up to it I have changed out the HY turbo for the HX like you guys recommended and it helped, but looking for just a bit more power. My next move will be a Edge Comp box instead of the EZ. Thanks for all the good ideas I've learned here so far. You guys haven't steered me wrong yet.

There's a guy selling a VP44 pump tester on a local classified site. He says it eliminates the ECM and wiring and will run the engine from the tester. He's only asking $150 for it. I'm wondering if it may come in handy one day. Could even use it to run an engine on a test stand.

So I had a annoying slight surge when not under load at highway speeds. I did some research on this and a few other sites and ordered up a Timbos APPS. It got here in only 4 DAYS. I couldn't believe it. I can't get stuff here from Calgary in 4 days and thats only 200 miles away. Anyway got it installed, surge is totally gone and it feels like the first half of throttle is crisper now too. Great instructions and packaging too. Thanks TIMBO!!!

I saw that very picture. I put mine in the hole where that second sensor is, but I put a nipple and collar on it just to be sure. I'm going to put it in the pan the next time I have it off.

Thank you for answering all my questions, I'm so glad I found this forum. I didn't think there was a piston behind the center plug. The front one is the 2nd gear servo and the rear one is the low reverse. I figured the middle one was just a pressure test location. I guess I can make my own extender with a nipple and a collar. I just got back from driving it a bit more. There's a solid 25psi boost and my pyro never went over 1000F on a steep climb pinned to the floor. The silencer ring has been removed from this turbo. I might put the one in from my HY if it fits. I'm not sure I like the noise that much. Now I'm saving up for some RV275s....does it ever end

So I got my HX35 swapped on tonight and what a difference!!! I thank all you guys that told me to swap off the old HY before buying injectors. I got my new glowshift pillar gauges on last night so I thought I would see how much boost I was getting with the HY35. The max I could get was around 17psi. Tonight I swapped on the HX35 and installed the pyro probe. The turbo already has a boost elbow in it. On my test drive I was seeing 25 psi and that was on a flat section of road full throttle. My pyro was climbing to around 950 when pinned to the floor. Does that sound about right? I'm running a Superchips D box will it fool the ECM and allow the 25 psi+ boost or will I throw a code eventually? How high can I get the boost with the elbow before I run into issues? I don't need ridiculous boost just want to keep my EGTs low when towing. Lastly I know you guys like to run your trans temp on the outlet to the cooler, but that isn't an option for me right now. I'm going to put it in the test port on the right side of the trans. I saw something about using an extender on the probe. Can't I just thread the sender right into the trans? I will use the center port not the servo ports. Thanks guys.

I bought the glowshift gauges, they are cheap and at least I will be able to moniter my truck better than I can right now. I just got back from my trucks first big tow with my 30 foot holiday trailer. It didn't go very well, I should have checked my rad. It was badly plugged and I was running over 3/4 on the gauge the whole time.

I'm having a hard time finding a HX35 to replace my Hy35. So I have been surfing ebaymotors and there are several vendors selling them for around $300. Have any of you guys tried one? Are they junk? Also I was searching for a gauge pod set up and found some stuff made by Glowshift. They are about $200. I'm assuming they must be junk if they are that cheap. I'm wondering if any of you guys have any experience with them? Thanks in advance.

I've got a line on a HX35 and manifold for $300. I'm going to offer $250. It's off a 99. I don't need the manifold but spare parts can't hurt. Is it normal to get the bug when you own one of these diesels, that you just want to keep making them better???? I keep thinking of the next mod I can do

Thanks for the advice. What is the most economical and effective turbo upgrade then? Would the turbo from a manual tranny be a direct swap? Thanks again.

So I got the billet convertor, BHAF, muffler delete and D-box all installed. Truck is working awesome but I want to change out the injectors as I believe they are still the originals and have 440,000kms on them. I keep seeing RV275 listed, are those a 275 horse injectors or 40 over stock? I was thinking of getting injectors from Pensacola off Ebay but read some bad feedback on them on this site and others. So I think I will go with some DAP injectors but I'm not sure which ones I should get. I will eventually get a real programmer that taps the pump, but will probably not change out the stock HY turbo. Are the lower HP injectors worth it or should I just go bigger to start with. Decent towing and MPGs are more important to me than racing.

I have a buddy who will sell me a Superchips d-box for around $100. Are they any good? I don't need a whole bunch more power, just a bit more than stock is fine.

Thanks for the info guys. I did fill out my signature, but I'm still a new limited member and I don't think it will show up until I have 20 posts?? I didn't start pulling it out yet I wanted to see what you guys had to say first. Edit...when I posted this there was my signature...lol

So I installed the Raptor FRRP 2 days ago and installed the BHAF today I love the turbo whistle. I built my own tapped banjo bolt but all my fuel psi gauges only go to 15 psi and this pump pegged them to the 6 O'clock postion with the engine not running. Man I have learned alot of stuff on here already. Tomorrow I'm cutting out the convertor and muffler and straight piping it with 3" (for now anyways). I bought a new single billet convertor from a local convertor builder. I also picked up a new input seal and a filter kit and 13 liters of ATF+4. When I have the trans out I want to adjust the bands and clean out the solonoids (or a least the governor solonoid) Does anybody have a picture of the valvebody that shows the location of the governor solonoid? I have built 727s back in the day but they were alot simpler. Also will I need to portapower the frame apart a bit to get the cross member out? And finally when the mount is out and I drop the tranny down to unbolt it will the engine mounts hold the engine or will I need to block it up or rig up some kind of support to hold it? I don't want to damage the exhaust or fan shroud if it tips down too far. Thanks guys you have already been a big help to me.

Welcome from the great white north...it's snowing here right now for crying out loud

No I didn't try that but the shudder I'm getting is severe and lasts longer than any shudders I ever felt in other Chrysler vehicles. I'm going to put the converter in anyway as I plan on uping my power a little bit, but now I know for sure what kind of oil to put in it. Thanks for the good info.

So an update on this issue, I found a local shop that builds convertors in Calgary. It's a single billet model and I got it for $600. This way if I have an issue I won't have far to go for help. I also ordered a Airdog FRRP pump. I hope that will cover all my bases. Next up is to straight pipe it and find a small HP programmer.

I'm having issues with my torque convertor in my 01. I have access to a complete 96 12 valve 4x4 that has a 5 speed but was rolled. I can get the whole powertrain for under $1500. Will all the parts flywheel etc transfer to my 24 valve? I don't really want to put the 12 valve in. I thought I may sell it a recoupe my money spent. Is there any electrical issues I will face? I think the pedals will swap in as the cabs I believe are identical. What about the center hump in the cab? I know it's a ton of work but it would solve any future auto trans troubles, and clutches are easy to change. Has anyone done this? Did you miss your auto afterward?

Thanks for the responses. I know what Mike is saying about being turned off by ebay, I have a buddy who bought about 10 headgaskets for Suzuki engines and every one of them failed. But like you were saying hex0rz I'm sure there are some good outfits that sell a quality product on there. Judging by their rating they couldn't have peed of too many people. I just don't have a huge budget to fix this thing so I need to find the best bang for my buck.