02cumminsdude

Yep. That was the first thing I checked. I was thinking maybe the fuel gauge was off. It was showing 1/4 tank, and about 115 miles to empty on the overhead. So I went to the Hess down the road, got 5 more gallons, filled it up and no change. Also, the gauge went up to about just under 3/8 tank, so I guess that means my gauge is correct?

Yes, see this is what I SHOULD have done first, but then the truck shut down and I'm in the middle of my current LP and VP predicament in my very first thread a couple days ago. But now, the block is full to the top of the copper heater hose, and I even added some to the upper rad hose before tightening it back down. However, now the truck isn't starting so I can't test it. And I will DEFINITELY buy a new waterpump at NAPA if it's only $50. Wow, I was expecting to see a 150+ price tag for it. I'll pick up the pump tomorrow, but only time will tell when I get my new parts and install them next week. I'll keep you guys updated on how it's going and thanks a lot for the help so far. BTW, since no one mentioned anything, I'm assuming it doesn't really sound like I damaged the crank? I mean, the truck has 200k, and is pretty stock as far as I can see, so I would be very disappointed and suprised to see such a great motor die at such a young age... I know the previous owner towed a camper, but that's all I know. --- Update to the previous post... Oh yeah and yes I did watch the temps, it VERY slowly crawled halfway between 140 and 190 in the 25-30 minutes before it died.

Here's what I did: -drained -flushed/backflushed heater core -replaced t-stat with NAPA one -flushed block with garden hose til it flowed clear out of heater core line from back of block -flushed radiator with water -added two bottles of Prestone super rad flush, topped off rad with water (however it didnt take NEARLY as much fluid as what drained out out of it) -left cap off and started it, so it would bleed and I could top off as needed Obviously it never bled, so I couldn't top it off, closed the cap hoping to build pressure, motor shut off shortly after. Never heard of the jiggle pin lol. But is there any way to test the waterpump while the engine can't run? If it needs replacing, this is my time to do it.

Hey guys, this is kind of a spin-off from my last no-start thread regarding my fuel pumps. But I had totally forgotten about another issue I had while flushing the cooling system. I had my truck idling for about 20 minutes before it shutdown, and the entire time, the all the hoses got very hot except the upper radiator hose, and coolant was not cycling through everywhere while I had the cap off, just kind of started to sizzle. So I put the cap on, and pressure still did not build and the upper hose remained cool. Is this probably a waterpump? If so, I would like to replace it while I'm doing my pumps. However a scarier issue I read, was possibly the front of the crank being broken? To make it worse, I noticed the night before the truck shutoff that the damper was a little wobbly, therefore, I bought a Fluidampr with my pumps. Should I pull the valve cover and rotate the motor with a wrench and watch for all the valves to move? You guys helped me out a lot so far, being new to my diesel, so hopefully I can get some good news on that at least. Thanks

Hmm, it was recommended to me over on cumminsforum as a code puller. Must of been wrong advice, I was wondering why it didn't pull my code up but the scanner did...

On my 02, I turned the key to the on position, and press the odometer button at the same time. But I have a scanner so I used that since the truck didn't give me my P0234 code, but the scanner did.

How old is the battery and starter? Could always be something as simple as that. Hopefully you don't need any new pumps, I can tell you they're expensive, I just bought two tonight. But it sounds like you may be lucky. These guys will set you straight they were a great help to me.

Holy crap, so I probably accelerated the damage to my pumps by pouring in such a concentrated dose without filling the tank up along with it. Live and learn I suppose... I guess I will dilute the tank ASAP then before running it through the new pumps. On a side note, I gotta give dieselautopower a shout out here, I had ordered the AirDog 150, knowing it was going to be overkill for my application. However I did not know that I had to drop the tank to install it. Jason called me and verified my order and explained to me the situation to be sure it was what I wanted. So I changed my order to an AirDog 100 and he saved me a BIG headache on the install. I highly recommend anyone with pump problems to check them out, I will be using them in the future.

I actually put some DieselKleen+cetane boost in the tank when it got just over 1/4 tank since I was planning on filling it up soon, however I never got that far obviously lol. At least I know the fuel going through the new pumps will be clean and stabilized. The Hess is maybe a mile or so down the road from me, so it will be getting a full tank shortly after it's started.

I'm almost 100% positive on the LP... priming it 8 times on Sunday, not to mention all the cranking I've done since then, and STILL barely an inch of fuel sitting in the canister? The only question now is the VP, but a new one is on it's way, so I'm going to wait until all these parts are installed before doing anything else. Hell, if the truck still doesn't start after all this, at least I can be sure my fuel system is pretty damn solid for a while lol.

Thanks for the tips. Probably will save a pretty penny on the turbo then. I'm looking at dieselautopower.com right now. They have the Bosch VP44 combo with my choice of stock, DDRP, FRRP, Raptor, or Airdog with some pretty sweet savings. --- Update to the previous post... Welp, I'm about to do it... VP44, AirDog150 and a fluidampr, since my stock one is shot. Grand total... $1858

Thanks man. Guys, as far as this fuel issue is concerned now, I've made a decision on it. Rather than do all kinds of diagnostic tests, I'm going to suck it up and replace both pumps with quality, dependable ones. I'll put my tax return to good use and swallow my pride. Since the truck has 200k, I don't want to just replace the LP and "hope" the VP will come back and stay up for a while. Who knows when it will go or where I'll be, I'd rather feel safe than sorry, since I have some plans on traveling to Pitt this year, I want the least possibility to get stranded somewhere. Which brings us to the next part of the thread which pump combo to go with? Future plans include: AEM intake, Edge Juice w/Attitude, slightly larger injectors (maybe 50's) and a slightly upgraded turbo. And just to clarify, I plan on driving around with mileage tune, not high power levels ALL the time. Better turbo simple to handle the power without failures. Any suggestions a good setup? Preferably something I can order tonight and have it overnighted, so I can knock this thing out this weekend. Also looking for something that is direct bolt on replacement, I don't want want to have to mess with any new setups. Thanks

This is kind of what I was worried about. When I cracked the injector line, I loosened the nut on the first cylinder at the front of the engine. I couldn't see it while cranking, but fuel was just laying underneath it, so I'm assuming it just of dribbled out. I believe I loosened it completely, then finger tighted it just to where it resisted, so pressure should have been able to build up. The truck has glowshift gauges on it now, but I've been told they are junk. Since I owned the truck, the FP gauge went through the roof. Goes straight to 30psi (which is the maxxing the needle) and stays there, but would occasionally dip down to maybe 15-20psi for like 2 seonds while driving.

My truck has been dead for a few days now and I was referred to this site for better, more useful help, so here goes... I was in the middle of a coolant flush, heater on full blast, truck was idling for maybe 20 minutes, then suddenly sputtered and died. It cranks but will not fire up. Throws a P0234 code for "overboost", however this seems to be irrelevant, as I was driving it unusually hard the night before, to check for oil leaks since I had just changed oil/filter. Anyways, the issue seems to be narrowed down to lift or injector pump, or both. Heres what I've done so far: added 5 gallons to fuel tank, primed pump 8 times, loosened injector line on one of cylinders while cranking and got some fuel to come out. However, even after priming pump, fuel canister is near empty, pointing towards LP. The next issue is figuring out how much, if any, damage is done to VP since this truck has 200k with no service records and I've only owned it 3 weeks. I've been directed toward 2 bluechip articles regarding some testing procedures that I will get to. I was referred here for some extra help and advice without the "pissing matches" on who's right or wrong.Also, when I crank the truck for say... 5 seconds straight, and let the key go, the pump whines pretty loud under me until I pull the key off. Not sure what means, obviously, even though it's making noise, it can't be pumping fuel can it? My canister would be full, but only has maybe an inch of fuel in it. It's a little late to go out and test anything now, but please share any info you might have for me in the meantime. Thanks guys