02cumminsdude

I think I'm catching your drift now...lol Seems that pump tap is a little more important than I thought. Now I'm curious and will have to reconsider

Just put mine on this week and it seems smoother than the stock balancer, then again, my stock balancer was shot. Easy install, take off drivebelt, remove four 5/8 bolts on old damper, slap the new one on using the same bolts, put the belt back on and your done. Hardest part is removing, and reinstalling the belt. If you have a helping hand it's a piece of cake, but I did mine alone and it was a hard to get back on. Make sure you position the wrench as far right as possible, I didn't and I had to lift the coolant reserve up to get my wrench off the tensioner.

What does that mean? Is that maybe why on level 5, it pulls itself through the gear at certain rpm's even when my foot is steady?

I've driven on levels 3 and 5 so far. There is a noticeable difference between those two in the throttle feel and even the way the truck sounds. So I'm sure the levels still change accordingly, but you just won't have the full effect unless the VP is tapped. Which I may end up trying soon, but for right now, I'm just enjoying having a problem free truck that runs great... much thanks to this forums members who have really helped me out.

Yes I had to use every piece of the MAP sensor harness. You had to separate the two gray pieces from the kit, put on end to the block, the other end to the sensor itself, then plug that into the Edge harness. Good to know about the return line, I was worried something serious might be going on. I'll have to look into that, it seems like continuos fuel loss like that might start to affect mileage.

The Edge is installed and all I can say is HOLY CRAP. I put it level 5 and got on it, first time I think I ever saw black smoke from this truck. I only took it to maybe 80-90mph but it was pulling hard the whole way. This thing is awesome. I don't have the VP wire tap installed though. I figure this way if I ever get curious in the future and it doesn't work again if I reinstall it, at least I know that's what the problem is. But anyways, truck runs great. I opened the needle valve just slightly and fuel pressure goes to a solid 15psi at idle. Everything is checking out so far, all the fuel lines have no leaks, the damper is no longer wobbly with the Fluidampr on it. I have heat and cold AC. Couldn't ask for too much more at this point. Only thing I noticed when under the truck was that it was dripping a little by the transmission, but I THINK it was diesel... at least it smelled like it when I touched it. Hopefully nothing too major, I'll look into it a little more, but for now everything is good. Although I do need a new drivers side A pillar in charcoal color if anyone has one? lol The previous owner has holes cut in this one for his Glowshifts, so I removed it.

I wish I had skipped the VP wire in the first place. The only reason I kind of want to put it back on is the hole it left in the wire. I did manage to get some electrical tape around it, but not very well. I would feel better with it secured more, it was just very difficult to wrap the wire with tape in that tight spot. But I probably won't be hooking that tap wire up again today, just the other stuff to see if it works. --- Update to the previous post... Hey guys, I have a side question possibly relating this fuel issue. I'm a little concerned that my fuel gauge could be off. If you remember from earlier I said I put a full 5 gallons in the tank, to make I didn't run out of gas. So that means I had a solid 5 gallons in the tank PLUS my gauge was already reading 1/4 tank. Now yesterday I filled the tank, and my card cut me off at $125, but that got me 29.7 gallons... correct me if I'm wrong here, but a 35 gallon tank with 5 gallons in it, should only be able to take 30 gallons of fuel, but my gauge was already reading 1/4 tank: 35gal/4= 8.75gal 8.75gal+5gal= 13.75gal 35gal-13.75gal= 21.25gal I should have only been able to fill my tank with MAYBE 22 gallons since I did a small amount of driving. I guess basically my question is, how can I know for sure if my gauge is wrong, and can it be fixed? OR how can I tell if the previous owner added some kind of larger tank? I'm thinking about going to fill up again today, just to see how much more fuel it will take.

It was suggested to me to run the fusion software on my computer and update the Edge... I have an iMac, which guess what? Is not compatible with the Fusion software... go figure, another twist to my story lol. I went on Edge's site hoping to download and it states that Macs are not able run it. So now, even if by some chance, the Edge works tomorrow, I won't be able to update in the future unless I find a PC and take it there.

I think tomorrow I will disconnect the negative batt cables, re-install the Edge, step-by-step, re-reading everything as I go. Hopefully have the MAP plugged in, I will tap the same hole on the VP that is in there now and see what happens. After that, I really don't know what to do until I call Edge. Hopefully if it doesn't work again, they will be good to work with in troubleshooting, or, warranty replacement if necessary. I'm not trying to get a freebie replacement here, I honestly hope that it magically works tomorrow and I don't even have to call them at all.

Ok I took a couple pics and I feel a little stupid now... possibly. I did not realize the T harness they give you seperates into 2 pieces. I thought it installed exactly the way they sent it. Here's what I've got in pictures: This is what they sent, EXACTLY how they sent it: This is how I thought it was supposed to be installed: This is what I think I should have done, to figure out which connection my truck needs: I went back out to my truck to look at the MAP and see for sure, but I could not for life of me remove the sensor again. I don't know if I did something when I removed it the first time or what, but I may need to get a screwdriver in there or something. I need to go to the gym soon, so I don't have time to pry it out right now, but I will later on. Now, even if this solves the MAP problem, it does not say anything about why the Edge would not power up in my truck UNLESS the MAP sensor directly has something to do with giving it power, which has yet to be explained. And if no one knows, I will not be able to find out until I speak with Edge this coming week.

Box says 01-02 Cummins. Bought it new from Diesel Auto Power, already registered it on Edge's website. I gotta say, the wiring harness LOOKS like the MAP should fit, except where the T harness end plugs into the factory MAP harness, the plug on the block itself looks like should fit too, but I think I snapped the locking clip off of the factory plug there. Even so, it should still plug into the block, just won't be 100% locked. I really don't think anything I could have done would have screwed up the Edge, like I said, when I pulled the monitor out and plugged it into my computer, it worked fine. Just doesn't work on the truck. I can take some pics later on and show you guys what I'm talking about with the MAP sensor. And the wire I tapped to the VP is the exact one they say to. Top wire bundle, the wire closest to the block when pump is installed.

Good news guys. Truck is running like a champ again. A stock champ, but a champ I removed EVERY piece of Edge product, including the VP tap. The codes cleared after I ran the truck, shut it off, and restarted. Now it runs through ALL RPM ranges smoothly, I actually have heat again, and my temps warm up to a solid 190 and stick around there. I only have two issues now. One, the small hole left in the VP wire from the Edge. Two, I have no fuel pressure gauge. Although all seems well, I want to be sure the pressure is good on my new VP. I still want to install the Edge, but I'm honestly a little worried now. I think I may just wait to talk to someone at Edge and explain whats up. I know that installed every connection EXACTLY like the instructions say. I went over them all several times and even tried swapping around some of the fuses like I mentioned before. I want to get this MAP sensor sorted out as well. Even when I do install the Edge, I'm going to stay away from the VP wire I think. It says it's not required, but you just won't get the MAX gains that could with it.

What I just did was unplug the engine control fuse underhood, disconnected both neg battery cables, removed ground from Edge to battery, let it sit for a while, then hooked everything back up EXCEPT the Edge ground wire to battery. The CEL still comes on when I turn on the key. Throws the same two 1693 and 1689 codes. I hooked my scanner and it only gave me two seperate 1689 codes, no 1693... but I could not clear them with the scanner, it kept cancelling the command. Is there anyway to remove the VP tap wire and repair the wire? I think I'm going to just unhook all Edge components for now, reset batteries, fire it up and see if the codes remain. I'm going to let the VP tap in there for now, but will just unhook it from the EDGE, even though the EDge was not getting any power anyways.

I couldn't plug the MAP in because I either broke a piece off my stock connector, or they sent me the wrong T harness for it. But how do I "undo" the tap on the VP wire? That posi-tap wire on the Edge pierces through the VP wire doesn't it?

This VP44 is brand spankin new, it better not be giving up! lol I am almost 100% positive the issue is that I tapped into that wire on the VP for my Edge programmer. However, when I started my truck to make sure it ran good, I did not hook up power to the Edge. But now that I've actually tried to power up my Edge and it's not turning on, something is wrong. Possible reasons include, no MAP sensor plugged into Edge, or maybe something with the fuses. But I tried messing with the fuse taps last night. I flip flopped the sides that are tapped, just in case maybe they weren't on the "hot" side. But nothing. Then I tried moving the underhood fuse tap into a spare slot rather than the AC clutch, still nothing. I may end up having to call Edge, since the Edge monitor worked when I plugged the USB into my computer, but doesn't work when installed on truck.

I watched TBD's install video. The ground to the neg. on battery is actually red in color. The black wire that I THOUGHT was the ground is the trans temp. I'm going out now to hook it up. I'm just going to run it without the MAP sensor hooked to the Juice. From what I've been reading it will not harm anything. In fact some people were running without them to make more black smoke or something?

Thanks guys. I feel pretty good right now, but I never could have gotten this far without this forum. Everyone on here has been so helpful and patient with my inexperience. Once I get the bugs worked out, I will update the sig and probably make a donation to the site. It's the least I can do, even after spending all the money I have spent, I would have spent much more leaving all this up to a shop. --- Update to the previous post... I'm going to the gym now but checked the truck again and I may have found my heater issue... in my excitement I forgot to tighten the radiator cap... lost a little coolant, not sure how much, but it only took less than a gallon when I refilled. I guess I will have to cycle it a couple times and add as needed. I feel pretty stupid on that one. But also have a question about the Edge. I have two round terminals to connect yet, red and black. Directions say black grounds to negative on battery but the terminal is too small. Should I go to the alternator, or will a body ground work? Also, I'm not even seeing what the red terminal goes to in the instructions, it's larger than the black one, maybe to the positive on battery or in fuse box? I'm not sure why they would be two different sizes if they are both for the power? I'm a little confused and Edge will not be open til Monday...

Awesome news guys, truck is running again. Just had it on a test drive. Still some diagnostics need done though. Here's whats up. CEL is on throwing codes P1693 and P1689. Also, absolutely NO HEAT at any fan setting even in 55 degree weather. Before, I at least had luke warm heat. Now, my truck warms up to about 190 which it NEVER got to before, even went slightly over. But here's the big one: under acceleration the truck cuts out and will not go over about 18-1900 rpms. Now, I have some ideas on the codes, but not the other stuff. I think the codes are regarding the VP to ECM communication. I disturbed that by tapping into the VP wire with my Edge, then never finishing the Edge install. Think maybe I should hook up the Edge and see what happens? --- Update to the previous post... BTW MoparMan, the AirDog is still self priming according to their booklet, however I did have to fill BOTH filters full of diesel to bleed the fuel system.

So you're saying just fill up both filters on the AirDog? I know the directions say you may need to fill the smaller one, but it also says it's a self-priming system, so I didn't think it was a big deal. Hopefully I was wrong. I will fill them both up tomorrow and see what happens from there.

Probably will have to wait for the weekend to get all that done. Maybe tomorrow. But does anyone know if the fuel system relay will affect the ability to get fuel to the VP? I'd hate to tear things back apart for something simple like that... but if it doesn't affect it for sure I won't bother with it. And BTW, the Edge has no power to it. I came across an issue plugging in the MAP sensor and I'm also waiting to make sure my ECM is set to stock before I activate the Edge. I only have everything hooked up EXCEPT the MAP and power wires. --- Update to the previous post... I could try that. I did put a very small amount of fuel in the "prefilter" which I guess is the water seperator? But I didn't fill it nearly the whole way as I didn't have enough fuel in my can.

The only spot I can think of a possible suction leak would be where I hose clamped the new suction line to the top of the tank. Other than that, something must of failed inside the factory unit, or AirDogs brand new fuel lines are no good. Other idea I'm thinking is a severe clog in the tank somewhere. If the fuel system relay goes bad, can it stop the suction from sending unit even if an aftermarket LP is installed?

Well I'm slowly losing hope. Finished up the installs today. Still won't start. It's not even getting fuel to the VP. I bumped the starter probably 10 times, then cranked repeatedly for about 10 seconds, then bumped it again a couple times. Am I not bleeding the system correctly? I left the 1,2,4 injector lines loose where they meet the block. Then I opened the overflow on the VP for a little. Am I supposed to keep them pretty tight at first so pressure can build? --- Update to the previous post... In case anyone wants some more detail: I've installed, new t-stat, waterpump, Fluidampr, VP44, Airdog100 and partially an Edge Juice. By partial I mean everything is hooked up except the MAP sensor and the power wires, so it's basically just sitting in there not bothering anything for now. And yes the AirDog is working, just not pulling any fuel up to the VP.

Everything is hooked up on my Edge so far except the MAP sensor. Either I need to replace my stock one, or they gave me the wrong T harness. Either way, I'm not going to undo everything I just did if this is only going to affect the boost reading to the edge, or have no effect at all. So is ok to run my Edge with the factory MAP installed, or should I just not even bother hooking the Edge up to the battery until it's ready?

I may do that. Today COULD be the day I try starting it, if all goes well. I've got to go get a few gallons of distilled water, fill up the cooling system, hopefully receive my Fluidamr, install the Edge, then it's just a matter of bleeding the fuel, and trying to start it.

I just installed my AirDog100 and the directions actually advise to let the factory return line in. Not totally sure about the Raptor, but the AirDog pumps more fuel than the FRRP I believe, so I don't see why you would need to do anything about the return line.