02cumminsdude

It does feel great. I'm finding that I actually have to "re-learn" the feel of my throttle and clutch now, because it is just so much more responsive than it ever has been. I've been over-revving quite a bit lately lol.

Two thumbs up to Timbo for not only solving my issue, but taking my truck to a level of responsiveness and smoothness that I have never known... Install was fairly simple but I did manage to drop and lose a couple screws and a torx bit. Had to use a propane torch on the set screw after ruining another t-20 torx trying to adjust it. But after it is all said and done my problem is fixed so I am happy. That just leaves the fuel leak yet. I think I am going to try some of this sealant tape I picked up from Ace a while back. It's like a teflon tape but thicker and I believe it withstands fuel and high heat, I wish I saved the package so I could read the specs again. I'll just seal up the threads and see if that works. I just need a temporary leak stop so I am not continuing to leave stains where I park. - - - Updated - - - Found it, check this stuff out. If it actually works, it pretty cool stuff. Will withstand fuels, and temps of like 500. I actually used this stuff to make my snubber setup for the fuel pressure gauge. http://www.rescuetape.com/?gclid=CLLEzb-z47MCFQ-e4Aod3G8Axw

Timbo got here yesterday, I might get around to it tomorrow, along with my steering bushing upgrade.These crossover o-rings... do they come with a set of new RV275's or is it a seperate purchase? I will look at prices for both but I have a gut feeling that my wallet is going to be a little slimmer pretty soon...Just checked out DAP and they have a couple different options for the 275's. There was an un-named RV275 for $250, then two genuine Bosch options at $390 and $405. I'm not sure what the differences are, but I'm assuming I will want to go with a genuine part?

Timbo APPS should be here in a couple days. I set my Edge juice to read the APPS as well and noticed that at idle, it jumps up and down from 0-1%. Also, while accelerating, percentage does not increase smoothly while I experience the choppyness. So that part of the issue should be solved in a few days...Discovered my fuel leak as well. Seems to be slowly squeezing out of the #4 and possibly #5 injectors, not the return T line or the banjo-bolt (which is good news) I tightened them however ever it still seeps out. What typically causes this? Bad o-rings... or should I just loosen and reset them to see if that helps? Oh man, I can see it now... I'm going to have end up replacing something cheap, but then somehow convince myself to just buy the RV275's that I've been wanting so I don't have to pull it apart twice......:banghead:

I don't see myself venturing out anywhere like that in the near future... definitely not with any failing parts on my truck. I sometimes wish I lived in a location like that though. But I've decided to take a chunk of next weeks paycheck and get the TIMBO before something does happen though, even if it's only a couple miles away from home. I will revive this thread with the results after I get it installed.

I am by no means an expert and I was afraid to tap the pump wire as well, but Mike talked me into it during my fuel system install and I have to say it is easier than you think. A little tight to work in there, but you will be much happier in the end. And I bought all my stuff from Diesel Auto Power, they have the best pricing I found and were great to buy from. I almost ended up buying a lift pump that required me to drop the tank and I was not aware of that. They called me almost immediately after placing my order to make sure it was what I wanted and explained the differences to me. Turns out the AD100 is more than I should ever need to fuel my truck according to my future plans. They saved me money and a big hassle on the install.

I hadn't thought of that really. I thought maybe if it got worse I would start experience some dead pedal here and there. Thanks for sharing that, I typically am within a few miles of my house, but even still, it's always a pain to have to get towed or stranded somewhere.

Yes it will be a small pain but I will only do it until around the holidays, maybe as soon as turkey day. The jerky throttle is just becoming very annoying to me, so I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't hurt anything to repeatedly reset it like that. And realistically I will actually only need to do it every few drives or so when it starts to jerk again.

Hey guys I was doing some thinking and had an idea to buy me some time on ordering a TIMBO. Would it be harmful to just simply make it a habit to do a quick reset on the APPS after each drive? I am thinking just turn the truck off after I get to where I'm going, turn the key back on, slowly depress the pedal, key off and get out. Then I come back and when I start it back up it will be reset and I won't have to keep dealing with the jerky throttle. Just long enough to buy me some time to store my nuts for the winter lol. I have a feeling I will be collecting unemployment for a while when it gets really cold out, so I don't want to be spending TOO much money if I don't have to quite yet. I was just wondering if it would be bad or just stupid to keep doing that?

I am thinking that's what I will I do. I've been reading about how it's a noticeable difference from the stock type APPS anyway and will last longer. I'll just think of it as an "upgrade" rather than a part failure to to ease my mind lol

Thats what I was thinking. I'm no electrical whiz but I can't imagine that a bad ground or dirty connector would be cleared up by unhooking batts and reseting APPS, then magically start to appear again.

UPDATE: After two days of driving, the problem seems to be slowly returning. I will be as detailed as possible so maybe someone will know whats going on here. I have a feeling I know what it is now though. Mainly has been happening in 4th-6th gear but ONLY while I have a light toe on the throttle, or I am holding it steady. If I give it a good stepping, the truck runs smooth pulls hard. The best way I can describe it is that the truck "pulls itself" for a split second or so, as if I am not holding the throttle steady. It never cuts out, or loses power, just pulls itself. I did the key trick, no codes. I'm not sure if my Edge shows codes or not, I think it does since it plugs into the diagnostic port. But the Edge has never thrown a code either. Also, the fact that the issue goes away completely after resetting the APPS and slowly wiggles it's way back, leads me to believe that I probably don't have a corroded or bad connection anywhere on the truck. Here is another key that leads me to what I'm thinking: it does not do it when I put the cruise on, even when I accelerate with the cruise button. The rain is stopping me from going out and chasing wires this week, so I am trying to do anything I can right now. But I'm beginning to think my APPS itself may be at fault here. Am I totally off with that idea? I don't want to go chasing wires when it is not the problem. I mean, if I had a bad connection somewhere, it would not go away no matter how many times I disconnect the batts or reset the APPS, I would have to physically find and fix the connection. So this is my theory as of now, so if anyone has any reason to shoot it down, please let me know what else could be going on. Sorry for the long post but I want to give you guys as much info as possible in hopes that someone may have had this problem before or at least knows whats going on. Thanks guys

Well after my plans of going out this weekend and chasing wires got soiled by rain, I was reading through the articles here and watching videos here. I learned something that I never knew and I have strong feeling that I may have just fixed my problem without spending a dime... What I learned was, that after disconnecting batteries, you need to recalibrate the APPS sensor. Well, since spring when I replaced all my pumps, t-stat, damper, and installing all my goodies, I THINK I reset the APPS after all that, but I've had the battery disconnected at least twice since then for other things and never reset it. So, tonight I went out and PROPERLY reset it this time. Left batteries off for about 45 minutes, went back out and reset it, took it for a drive and WOW. The truck did not skip a beat. I haven't felt the truck drive this smooth since spring when I first picked it up. I reset the APPS before like I said, but didn't unhook the batts or anything. Tomorrow and all this week will be the real test with the temps going down in the 40's here, but I feel as though my problem will be solved and have my fingers crossed. I will update if anything changes.

Actually yes, I just got back from another drive, and I do feel a slightly smoother tone to the idle and even while driving. I have a feeling that if I had someone else with me, they might be like "WHAT?" but I know from driving my truck long enough how it sounds lol. But also something that may have helped mine was (hopefully) fixing this electrical problem I was having. I won't go into detail but if your interested I'm about post in my thread about acceleration.

Well since Sandy is ruining my plans this weekend to chase my electrical bug, I decided to at least go to Walmart and get some 2 cycle Supertech and throw it in the fuel tank for the first time. It was in the low 50's and raining and suprisingly when the truck warmed up, especially after the putting the oil in the tank, I had very smooth acceleration for the first time in a while. There was still a slight buck from time to time, but it was a very enjoyable ride for once. I was actually suprised at how thick the oil was as well, I had never used or seen 2 cycle until today and I was picturing it to be somewhat thick since it is oil after all, but putting it in the fuel tank I thought it would be much thinner. I actually stopped pouring and double checked that I had bought the right stuff lol.

I actually don't drive the truck until the evening hours so morning dew/frost should be gone by then, but I will clean and grease those connectors you mentioned Mike, it can only help. What I did with my batteries was scrub off all corrosion with a small brush on anything that the battery terminals would be touching. Then used a brush to lightly coat the terminals and connections including my fuel pump and Juice power supply wires with the same oil I put into my truck, 15-40 Rotella. All this made a nice difference but did not solve the problem. It was only after I reset the APPS that it totally went away, but came back shortly after (about a day). Also the CCD has been coming back as well. If I don't get to look at everything today, I will most likely have to wait until next weekend and will post up then. In the meantime if anyone has anymore suggestions I am all ears, thanks guys.

Well Mike, your suspicions were correct. Temps dropped into the low 50's tonight and the CCD popped up again for the first time since the battery change. Also getting a slight choppyness again, however not nearly as bad as before, although I suspect it will worsen. So the cool weather leads me to believe that a wire or ground somewhere is slowly deteriorating or just not supplying enough juice anymore, and the colder it gets, the smaller it gets, giving it even less of a connection. Maybe the ring terminal I used on the ground is not the proper type. I don't know but I would like to figure this one out before the temps drop into the 20's and 30's. I love that weather, just don't like working on vehicles in it :banghead:

Haven't hooked up my scan tool yet, but I will. It's not doing it anymore so I am happy for now, but I will keep looking around jut to be sure I haven't only put a band aid on the issue.

One thing that sticks out in my mind is when I installed the AFE, I broke the ground terminal from the battery to the body on the passenger side. I ended up finding a similar ring terminal in my little electrical kit and I had to crimp it on the ground wire. And actually after that install, the choppyness became worse. When I did my batteries yesterday, I pulled the wire off the terminal again. This time I put a little solder on the wire and crimped the hell out of it again. It is on there solid now. Maybe that could be part of the issue... not sure why it would go away after resetting the APPS then? I will also probably need to replace my battery terminal clamps at my next battery change, they look a little rough. As far as looking back at wiring, do you happen to have any names and locations of where to look? I am not very "electronically inclined" so I will need some guidance on where and what to look for. Thanks man

I'll give that a try today. So you think I could still be having CCD issues even though the CCD light hasn't come on yet since I changed batteries? Also, the lights don't flicker while driving anymore. I have a scan tool but I don't know if it's like the one mentioned in the article, I think mine is an Actron auto scanner. - - - Updated - - - Well I went out today and reset the APPS, at least, I THINK I did... key on, slowly press pedal to floor and slowly release right? Anyways, I'm not sure if the weather being in the low 70's today had anything to do with it, but the throttle was noticeably smooth as soon as I took off. I've had no CCD lights since I replaced the batteries yesterday either. Hopefully this is problem solved, however I should know for sure when it gets back down into the 50's where it was very noticeable. I'll keep updating in this thread if it returns.

Hey guys, I have been having some issues with my truck under acceleration for a while now and need some help diagnosing it. My sig is current, and I have just replaced batteries, cleaned connections and coated with oil today. Before the battery swap I was having VERY noticeable surging under acceleration when cold, and it even started doing it while the motor was operating temps. I also had my interior and exterior lights flickering slightly while driving and was getting a CCD reading from the overhead off and on while driving. I drove it several times today after the batteries and I have no more flickering lights or CCD light so far. The choppy acceleration has gone away for the most part, however, it is still there sometimes even when I've been driving at operating temps for a while. Seems to mainly happen in 2nd and 5th gear the most noticeable, but also in 6th while lightly accelerating sometimes. Should I try resetting the APPS? Could the small fuel leak at the back the head be causing a lack of fuel at certain times? I would think since it's the return line, it would not affect the actual injection? Any ideas?

Interesting idea. I have no codes, but I do occasionally get the CCD light up in the overhead, it comes and goes and these batteries could be YEARS old for all I know. They also accumulate some build up on the terminals within days of cleaning them. I am planning on fresh batts and cleaning and sealing the leads on the terminals for the winter. Hopefully that clears up the CCD light and takes care of the surge as well. I love an easy fix

Fuel pressure is always a solid 14-15psi. I haven't done any WOT runs since I've been driving more conservative to increase mileage. It runs flawlessly when warmed up, I've just noticed that with only a 10 degree difference in weather in the 70's it's such a noticeable surge that it worries me about even cooler temps coming up. Would I just call Dodge and give them the VIN and they can look it up to see if it's been reflashed? Dripley, I've seen the T fitting back there, just haven't been able see or feel the banjo bolt yet, which is probably where it's leaking since it's harder to get there :banghead: - - - Updated - - - Punched it in 5th for a few seconds on the way home, PSI dropped to 12 and held strong. Wasn't quite operating temp when I did this, but warm enough for the surging to stop. I'm not sure exactly what the surging feels like from an apps issue, but from what I've read here, it almost feels like that, but that wouldn't go away after warming up would it?

Some of you may remember my "slightly disappointed with MPG" thread. My first fill-up since then I got 16.8 mpg, up from 14.2, just changing my driving style and installing a AFE stage 2 about halfway through the tank. Better, but not good enough yet. Still have to pinpoint the leak behind the head, not sure if it's at this banjo bolt which I have yet to find with my mirror lol, or the return line T fitting. So I'm expecting gains yet and still adjusting my driving, but good results so far.Anyways, I'm having a slight issue in low-mid 70 degree weather. Not only does it take noticeable longer to warm up, but it also flattens out at 1400 rpms or so through all the gears until it warms up substantially. This may just be normal for these trucks, but I've had it since last spring and it doesn't do it in summer 80+ degree weather. The Juice limiter is turned off, so it isn't that. It didn't do it quite as bad in the spring in similar weather, maybe it's the cooler air from the AFE being pulled in? I'm just worried that if it is doing now, how much worse will it be in the 20's and 30's?

Short update, I installed an AFE stage 2 intake. Noticed a slight difference in the feel of the truck since my factory filter was pretty clogged. But mostly just has deeper tone in the cab, not to mention more turbo whistle. Sounds like a damn jet at times Don't know the affect on mpgs yet, however I can say this, by changing my driving style and lowering the Juice to level 1, my overhead got up to 17.1 for the first time since I owned the truck. After a couple short miles of driving with AFE and turning the juice back up to 5, the overhead went right to 17.2 and I also have much less black smoke when accelerating hard. So all in all, the AFE is proving itself, but I look forward to the actual gains at my next fill up. On a side note, the AFE is suprisingly difficult to install for how much money you spend on it. I had to do a lot of pulling and forcing the box and the tube into place and the tube doesn't line up very well with the box. Overall I'm happy so far, but the install was not what I expected from one of the "higher end" intakes.