diesel4life

Unless yogi turns on him, then it might go from an entertainment movie to a horror flick....:eek: How about a night scope on the 306? Night night....JR

What kind of code reader are you using? ISome of the cheaper models may not pull codes from the ecm....I have seen a VP cause dead pedal, usually at a certain RPM when maintaining the same throttle position for an extended time, or when the engine was below 140*. Normally the dead pedal could be temporarily "cured" by shutting the truck down and restarting, or letting off the throttle to allow to return to idle, then get back into the throttle. Just to give you some references.JR

I feel your pain. When we were growing up (not that many years ago) we would buy cars (sometimes for literally 100 bucks) tweak em, tune em, run em. The nicer ones we might actually hang on to long enough to to register and insure, and make a project out of. Most of em either wound up in the woods (if they were 4x4s) or on the circle track out in the field. Sometimes they made it through the weekend, and we fixed em through the week and looked for more to replace the ones that didn't make it to run again the following weekend. The scrap man loved us, we lined em up at the road when we were done to make it easy for him to hook and run. We gave him all our buisiness and in return he paid us well. The point is, we were ALWAYS working on something. We lived to run em and wrench em. Sometimes things got a little crazy and dad had to intervene, but for the most part he let us go. We weren't out running the streets or drinking and driving or getting into drugs. All he had to do to check on us was stick his out the door, we were either in the garage fixin em or running em on the circle track or back in the woods. It doesn't seem like many kids have that same connection with vehicles these days. They're happy with a Honda Civic with a big fart can, a bunch of cheap chrome and a stereo that shakes the license plates... :rolleyes:JR

Lol! :djr

So if I understand correctly your running two pumps in series? What happens when one pump goes bad? Will the remaining pump be able to push/pull fuel through the dead unit? I got away from the OEM set up up because they simply do not put out enough pressure to supply the VP (this has been confirmed by Bosch themselves). The block mounted Carters are far from reliable, which is why they went to the in tank pumps, but those do not provide adequate pressure either. Then there is the desire for some who want the insurance of added filtration, and aftermarket is the only way to go. JR

That's a great price. I'm surprised at how good of shape it is in on the outside considering it looks like it's been through more than it's share of battles on the inside. Do you have any experience with automotive painting? It would definitely be cheaper to do it yourself if your confident in the outcome, otherwise might be best just to leave it to the pros :surrender:As for the rhino liner idea that may not be a bad idea other than the hole in the center... if you go that route check out Monstaliner. It is a DIY application, seems to be one of the better DIY kits available. I have a kit sitting in the house, tinted red to match my truck. I have 2 days off at the beginning of the week and plan on applying it. I'll post some pics up of how it comes out. Do you have a bedliner in your current truck? If not I imagine you should be able to find an insert for a reasonable price, that would cover the hole up and any patch job you may do.Anyhow, good find!

Yes I switched from a Raptor to an AD100 with the twin filter set up. The AD100 was given to me with a burned up motor. When I found out I wasn't going to have to send my Raptor back when it started leaking, I tore into it to see if there were any differences between the 2 motors and there weren't. I took the motor off of my new Raptor and installed it on the AD100. I had to buy some fittings and hose to make it all work, and I made my own wiring harness. I can't remember off the top of my head how much they wanted for a harness but it was pretty expensive for what it was. I imagine if your going to buy an AD100 new they will provide most everything for you. Anything extra that you may need check out Vulcan Performance, that is where I bought everything I needed to make the conversion. I chose to keep my filter canister. I simply ran my fuel line up to the canister and bought a big line kit to go from the canister to the VP. I have the older style canister with 1/8" threaded ports coming out of the top and I use them for my fuel pressure gauge as well as a low pressure light I have wired in plain sight in case I don't catch any fuel pressure problems with my gauge right away. Plus it is an extra filter, which can't hurt, and retained my WIF sensor. Haven't ever seen it go off, but it just seems too easy to leave it in place and have the extra protection rather than remove it and have it taking up more space on the shelf somewhere.... JR

A lot of a rivers "consistancy" is based on soil types in that particular region. Loose soil (peaty, sandy, and silty) tends to get washed away during a rain storm much quicker than clay or other denser types of soil. Again, depending on the region even city water can have enough minerals in it to be harmful to an engine block.

Nope, they never even asked for it. That is when I decided to tear it down to determine the differences between the Raptor motors and the AD100 motors. They are identical (other than the plugs I think) and I installed my new Raptor motor on an old AD100 assy that was given to me because it had a bad motor. The best part is the Raptor that was defective only had a seal go bad in the pump so I have a perfectly good motor and brushes as a spare in the event my new one goes out of warranty.JR

Chrysler spec HOAT is compatible with all Cummins engines. It is no different than everybody running ATF +4 in a 47re trans that was originally specd' with ATF+3 or that CJ4 spec oil you are most likely running in your engine that was originally designed to run off of cl4+. Fluids progress along with technology and most of the time it is for the good. This is a little off topic but I just had a discussion with a Chrysler transmission engineer on another forum last week. I asked him why the service intervals are so much longer on the new 68rfe trans (60k miles IIRC) compared to the 30k intervals of the 47re. You would think with literally double the torque output of the early 47re equipped trucks that the service intervals would not be that much different. He confirmed that it really boils down to the superior fluid of the ATF+4 which is a synthetic, compared to the 3 that the 47 was designed with. One thing that we did not discuss but I suspect has an effect is that the 68rfe also has better filtration capabilities. The engineer conceded that although he would not be comfortable with running a 47re to 60k mile intervals, it would be safe to push it further than the 30k intervals that was originally recommended with the ATF+3 fluid.In the end you need to be comfortable with the fluids you are putting in your truck but there is no harm in running the newer HOAT antifreeze. There is lots of info out there if you care to look into it further. I have myself, and have seen where Cummins themselves have confirmed the compatibility of HOAT in older systems. In the long run it will lower maintenance costs and be easier on the environment. JR

There are 2 choices, either a standard ethylene glycol (green stuff) and do flushes every two yrs, or a thorough flush and switch to Chrysler approved HOAT, and double the intervals. When considering the maintenance intervals, the time it takes to do the flushes, having to dispose of the antifreeze, going to the HOAT seems like a win win situation. The only way I could see it not paying off is if you put more than 100k miles on your truck in a 2 year period.JR

Nice truck! Did you write the article? When I was in school I had a friend whose dad owned a Salvage yard. Someone had brought in a totaled 63 or 64 crew cab with a Perkins engine in it. Instead of scrapping it he hung onto it for several years with the intentions of finding another truck to put the drive train in but it never happened. He passed on and the salvage yard went by the way side so I'm not even sure what happened with it. I'm pretty sure it was an original truck, it had diesel fuel labels on it and one or two other tell tale signs, although it is possible someone did a conversion on it at one point. After reading your article I'm not so sure that it was original. Sorry for swaying off topic, and welcome to the forum!Back to my original question, does this at all seem like its temperature related? By that I mean engine temp.JR

Does this dead pedal seem temperature related? No engine codes? Which APPS did you buy? I have seen VP's give out random dead pedals before....How about some pics of the 64 when you get some time?

4 months and they fell apart....:confused:Did you at least let Rock Auto know about this? I realize they are cheap, but that's not the point....JR

It should not have a hard time starting in that mild of weather. At my former job we had a couple of them as well as a few 6bt's in the small cranes, none of them had any cold weather starting aids and they would start right up down into the single digits. We did have magnetic heater elements that we stuck to the bottom of the oil pans for when it got colder than that. I don't think they were as effective as the coolant heaters in our trucks but they worked well enough.One of the older Lorain cranes we had with a 6bt actually had an ether bottle set up for cold weather. It had a cap kind of like a filter canister that you would screw a pressurized ether bottle into and there was a button in the cab of the crane where you could fog the engine to help get it going in cold weather. My boss (the owner of the company) has always been very against using any kind of starting fluid in diesels and in 13 years of working there (10 of those yrs running the cranes)I never saw it get used. JR

Not sure what kind of temps you see but I've never had any problems with 15w40 year around. Even my brother in law in Wyoming runs it year around, and I've seen his truck sit for days on end up at their cabin at 10k feet in sub zero weather (No electricity, so no block heater). Synthetics give an advantage with cold starts to begin with over dino oils.Did you try snugging the oil pan up a touch? I would use caution but it may be worth a shot, at least to eliminate the possibility of a loose bolt or 2.JR

From the few aftermarket exhaust brakes I've dealt with, the brakes on the VGT's are superior anyways.... JR

The one warranty claim I had the customer service was top notch. I'm not sure what they have in mind for you but I'm sure they will take care of you in the end.... With my Raptor I simply called and gave them the serial #, and they had another one in the mail no questions asked. JR

It wouldn't have anything to do with being bolted to a 200 degree engine would it....;) Not trying to be argumentative, but my Raptor motor on my AD 100 setup (on the frame rail) is luke warm to the touch after running for over 2 hours straight. I would have to think if it was going to get hot it would do so in those two hrs..... I do agree with the ground wire being larger than the hot, on my Raptor the 2 wires are the same size coming out of the pump and I made my own harness from the pump up to the OEM harness, which was 12 gauge wire.... JR

I have limited exposure to the 6.7's but from what I've seen I completely agree. A properly deleted truck will really free up a truck and let it run like it's supposed to, not to mention extend the service intervals. The biggest thing I've seen is people getting carried away with the custom tunes and popping head gaskets. The 68rfe in stock form doesn't seem to be able to take a whole bunch of power mods either, at least the few that I have seen anyway. Not too much different from any other stock trans though when you think about it. As long as you don't go crazy with the power you should be fine. Like mentioned above though, if you live in an area that does emission testing your going to run into problems. And whatever you do, don't sell off your stock equipment if you remove it. Very important parts to hang on to! JR

Vulcan Performance has a nice selection (and good description) of any fittings that you may needJR

If your looking to do an upgrade AND an exhaust brake you should seriously look into a 351vgt out of an 07.5 and up. Combined with a stand alone controller it will be a great combo with stock injectors on up to 100 horse sticks, plus the exhaust brake is integrated in the turbo. I picked up a manifold and turbo of a low mileage 09 for 250 bucks a few weeks ago. The stand alone controllers go for around 500 give or take or if your patient they can be had used at half that price. A little fab work on the CAC piping will be necessary also. The vgt's are great for towing because the geometry of the turbine increases as the engine accelerates and the aspect ratio is maintained. There is a reason nearly all diesel engines use these turbos now a days, they are very efficient and tough to beat.JR

This was supposed to be quoted with above post JR

This is the best you can do to prolong the life of them, IMO. Remove the pump from heat and vibration. I personally don't see any benefit to rewiring them, if they were engineered with improper wire size you would see a much higher failure rate with a lot of blown fuses and burned up relays to go along with the symptoms. It can't hurt to run larger sized wires, but I would be very surprised to see an increase in reliability if that is all that is done. JR

Do you have any junkyards around? IThat would be the place I would go to for misc. Lines and such. I would probably spring for a new compressor and dryer but all the odds and ends that may be missing could get real pricey buying new and a junkyard truck would be a great solution IMO Edit: Just noticed it's set up with twins so that may not be feasible JR