rancherman

ok. now please try to explain how Sir Bernoulli's Principle works in a dead end line. this should be interesting. Wizards hat? cripes, the man has been dead for 200 years. I think it's not the secret you think it is. And yes, as a matter of fact, this DOES seem very damn familiar. As far as pressure (head loss) loss due to frictional forces. Diameter is most certainly a factor. Not as much as I originally thought however. hf = f (L/D) x (v^2/2g) where: hf = head loss (m) f = friction factor L = length of pipe work (m) d = inner diameter of pipe work (m) v = velocity of fluid (m/s) g = acceleration due to gravity (m/s²) If diameter was not a factor, it wouldn't be included in this formula. true, any FLOW immediately in the THROAT area is by definition reduced in pressure. That's a given. But every example of Bernoulli's Principle shows the pressure goes right back up downstream of the throat area Gauges are most definitely 'downstream' of this area.

just to clarify, can you post a pic of this 'Bernoulli's device' and how you have it installed?

Thanks, and I've already been warned that the beetle's engine wiring harness is a total 'one-off' bastard... and to avoid it at all costs! LOL OH, hell, Bill.... you know me: I get wild ideas about swapping crap into stuff that doesn't belong, I get too fired up about building 'one-off' creations.. In this case the lil 1.9 tdi in my Toyota.. is really no way a 'one off' , it's been done fairly often now, with fairly good results. I've found adapters, brackets, mounts, to make it almost a bolt in deal.. found various reflashers, for the ecu part.. pretty good diagrams for the wiring part, cooling seems to be adequate with the oem toyo radiator.. Most swappers seem pretty happy with the 150 HP level, putting a little larger tire on help with the gearing. NO (zero) aftermarket gearing lower than 4.11's! larger tires is the only way with the married 4x4 transfer case. Then there are the guys who really want to stretch what 1.9 liters can make.. upwards to 300.. insane. For me, 150 will suffice! I could have an all mechanical one shipped to me from Canada.. or for about half the price find an ALH locally for about 12-1400.. Then would need to get the Ecu, and harness. Tack on about 4-500 for that! I've also learned the ALH's tend to be a little better in the 'sealing' dept.. both oil and coolant.

Friction boys...FRICTION, (Mike called it 'snubbing') is what 'dampens'. Small lines have a lot more friction than larger ones. PLUS, the smaller lines have far less inertia that larger lines. I should say the fluid within the line has less inertia.. both from it's mass, and the friction factor.

This is what I've learned so far; The all mechanical version, (AAZ) wasn't sold here in US. Basically everywhere BUT here. 1992-1998 was the 'semi' computer controlled AHU, OR 1Z designation... offered here in the States. I believe the 99's and up were designated 'ALH's' and fully computerized. Possible all aluminum? I believe the first two versions are Iron block, aluminum head. Feel free to correct, add, or slap my hand!

I know there is a few guys in here that have run the 1.9 Tdi. I need a quick low-down on what's-what. TDi for 'dummies' if you will Please explain the differences in what I'm seeing; ALH, BEW, AAZ.. American side, Canadian side configurations... etc etc. all of these run egr? Mechanical versions.. and computer managed.. years made.. Immobilization enabled versions... I suppose those were built from the low 2000's onward, Probably the exact versions to stay away from in a 'swap' scenario.. I've seen some 'tuned' to around 150 hp, and still reliable. Your thoughts?

I too sensed a tidal wave of refugees.. I never put 2 and 2 together until 'election season'.. Panic.. man, that's a perfect description! Today, the new 'commercial' (if you can call it that!) where she is getting 'spoof roasted' by some long hair loser derelict.. LOL.. he probably is mainstream Hollywood, but I'm not in those 'circles'.. Has to be a jewel in her 'crown'!! edit.. 'Between 2 ferns' with Zach gali.. or something like that..

This should finally culminate the 'he said, she said'.. and be fairly entertaining! I have a feeling that We, The People, will be thoroughly disgusted at the whole debacle.. And with recent events, and not so recent.. there is certain 'fodder' that is really going to light-up the events! Should be interesting on how they 'tip-toe' around certain issues!

What method did you use to 'measure'?? I take a couple lengths of angle iron, and a couple of zip ties to hold it snuggly against the tire. just slightly below axle CL. ( lower if the body gets in the way) but away from the bulge on the lower part of the tire. These angles stick out about a foot in front and behind the tire. That gives me a nice way to 'hook' the tape measure.. I shoot for a little toe in.. about 1/16- 1/8th. Oh, btw, this is with the full weight on the axle too.

Gotcha! So this thermal protector in inside the motor? I have a feeling it's going to be multiple issues.. LOL, the drivers side will probably be a worn/burnt motor, and the passenger side is feeling the effects of a bad connection coming from the recent switch replacement.. (sonny might have missed a plug connector device)

3 days ago, I was wishing I had my video camera with me; I was removing water from a ditch with a small semi trash pump. Basically just pumping it over the road to the other ditch. There was about 3 hours of pumping, my little pump pumps just a tick over 9000 gallons per hour. 2 inch lines, in and out. Depth of water was about 2 feet, at the start. Keeping the suction side out of the nasty mud was a handful for me, I had to keep my hands on it the whole time. Point here is; I was amazed at how hard it was to keep it from 'WHIRLPOOLING'.. Even the tiniest miniature 'tornado'.. and I could hear the little Honda engine load get significantly easier. .... easier load= less gallons per minute, efficiency went south. I tried vertical, horizontal positions with the suction tube. various depths too. Invariably, it always started a tiny white tornado... injecting a tiny amount of air into the line. Lightbulb went off, how is our systems, especially the HP pump models, with a draw straw, any different than this?? I even cut off the end of my suction hose at an angle to see if it would help with the vortex effect.. It only delayed it from forming, eventually the vortex got just as bad as the uncut version. now, keeping my hose as deep as possible was the only way to MINIMIZE the whirlpool, it never eliminated it. These tanks are extremely shallow.. LONG, but shallow! Cut that depth in half... and I can see how easy a whirlpool can start! I truly think that original sock on the end is more for breaking up this effect, more than being a pre-filter! (but I'll concede that OEM pumps are far less GPM than what we are pumping!!!) My thoughts here are; find some sort of diffuser on your draw tube... say a larger outer sheath with multiple holes cut into it... and/or never let the tank get more than half empty. Fuel conditioners, mainly the flow 'winterizers'.. or 'cleaners'... with benzenes, alcohol,, I'm sure I'm missing half a dozen, LOL, are what's eventually hard on the buna-n products. Just out of curiosity, how long did it take for the original ball, to start forcing you to crank longer? I realize it took you some time to discover the grooved ball.. I'm wondering if FASS went with a larger ball to get a more 'flatter, larger radii ball.. which wouldn't cut into the sealing area as aggressively. ( can you see if the sealing part, or 'margin' if you will, has been properly machined?) Can you tell if it was the spring, or the sealing lip that was making the groove?? First thoughts would be to replace with a steel ball! but I'm sure that ball's inertia would pound out it's environment in short order!

Inertia within the pipe will cause 'hammering' just ask anyone who has put an un dampened FP gauge. You are supplying via a half inch tube, the inertia within that large area is just like a tsunami wave. When it gets to the ball or even before with fittings, smaller lines, etc..., the area decreases, which means the speed increases...but the weight or inertia of the large 'heavy' draw straw supply is still pushing.. creating 'shock waves' if you will.. not far from a ram-jet type situation. and that little ball is getting a workout. (I'd bet it's BUZZING quite wildly) Not to mention any impulse waves created by the rotor itself, which may or may not traverse backward. I didn't read back on what pump you have, but in a 150 or 200 gallon per hour system, the speed within that circuit has to be fairly fast.. As far as the 'Viton, verses Buna N, both are diesel 'resistant'.. it's the additives that we put in our fuel that is a little 'hard' on Buna N stuff.. Why yours and not about 1000 other guys who have the same setup? Bad luck with poor quality balls 2x in a row... sure sure, could happen I suppose. I'd suspect an air leak first.. which the system is taking care of, and sending back to tank. even the most minute amount of air on the suction side of any pump make things quite violent. (hydraulically speaking)

Most of the summer, the only way to get the drivers side to work was to 'thump' the inside door panel, just below the switches... whilst holding the switch. Made for some pretty erratic driving to say the least.. sonny tried a new switch, but that didn't work either, same action was needed to make it work. Now the passenger side no longer works, but it worked fine until yesterday. Is that metal 'fuse' in the side dash a fuse, circuit breaker, or relay? It's the same that runs the power seats.. but swapping them made no difference.. seat works fine with either. So, what's the order of events here? Find out if there is 12v to the switch... and follow that path?

looks like a 1996 up to 2001. earlier one's would still be a bolt in deal, but the sensors are different for the OBD 1 and OBD 11

Im late to this party.. but for launching a 'load'.. sounds like lvl. 3 might be actually where you want! 'holding' speed running through the hills is where I'm interested. BTW, our 2000 with the HO pump is pulling so much better, rarely needs 4th gear with our hills and loads. the last replacement pump barely was able to get OUT OF 4TH!! I'D be scared to let my son see this thread; he has burned off those dual tires pretty quick this summer!! ;)

I'd start with the very basics here! you just said almost everything has been fairly recently replaced... I'd suspect something has come loose first! Somebody forgot a cotter pin, or didn't get it torqued properly in the first place. Try to get a new stabilizer in there too. crawl under there and have someone rock the steering side to side and you look for slop, or up and down motion where side-to-side is the only direction needed.. about half a turn is all you'll need.. engine off so you may hear clicking too.

Mike... wasn't it only 24 hours ago, that your told me about some transmission woes? ;)

Jane is correct Royal squire.... geesh, I'm on a roll today! I wish I could pull the winning lotto numbers this easy! FYI... Daughter 'Judy' Son 'Elroy'

not to nit pik... but it was spelled "Kotter" LOL... and is where John Travolta got his start. Yo Vinny! Hows about a coke?? I can't remember what I had for breakfast... but crap like this comes at will.. sigh.

Part of my last years' demise of mental health, was sorting out the problems I was blessed with when I purchased an ag tractor with a 903 vt Cummins engine. Some of you may remember my posts about it scuffing cylinders.. and the ensuing in-frame rebuilds. I was getting about 200-300 hours max service on a rebuild. Not good. I've hunted down mechanics from coast to coast, to pick their brains. At least the ones that were still alive! I COULD NOT FIND ONE that ever heard of a constant problem of scuffed pistons Shoot, it was a task to just get them to understand it was NOT an injector: the tops plus the ring-lands were absolutely perfect. So, last year, I snagged a spare engine out of retirement, and built a stand to do an out of frame rebuild. My scuffing was confined to the back 1 or 2 pistons, either bank was prone. So.. here we go! Typical running conditions just prior to 'melt down'... were Et; 1000-1100. coolant varied between 165 and 185, but was quite 'active'.. varying up and down between the two. I figured it was the 'cummins way'.. quite common even in our pickups. So took the bare block into the shop to be boiled, measured, and checked for square, flat, and any corrosion issues. Meanwhile, I went overboard and sent the brand new pistons off to be coated, tops and skirts. I was swinging at the fence here to eliminate excess heat traversing down the skirt. Cost; 50 bucks a piston. *pistons over 5 inches get a surcharge.... mine are 5.5 inch Fantastic turn-around... less than a week to St. Louis Mo. Even though the injectors were fairly new, I swapped them out for fresh ones. These are PT style injectors, they have a 3rd pushrod off the camshaft that 'fires' them. I thought I had an 'aha' moment when I noticed some oil pooled in the intake manifold.... possible turbo seal puking too much oil into the engine - more heat?? That thought was short lived, the seals apparently melted down when the last engine failure caused me to shut down without proper cooling period. New turbo installed. this is where things started to fall in place! WATER PUMP! I never removed the old pump from engine #1 (original engine w/problems) I just rebuilt the pump from the spare engine.. Nice kit from Interstate-Mcbee. rebuilt pumps are non existent, so doing it myself is the only option. I even found the depth seating tool for the seal on ebay.. took about an hour of press work, but I got what I needed. This application swings a huge cooling fan, almost 33 inches in diameter, and weighs almost 50 lbs. JUST THE FAN. Imagine the HP to swing it! No wonder cummins runs 3 robust v-belts to drive it. there is the crank pulley, fan hub, and finally the WP is driven on the slack side of the rotation.. the wp is very very similar to our trucks, they are inside the block. My flow is divided so half the flow is directed through the oil cooler, then that flow is sent to the rear of the block to take care of the right bank. The other half of flow has a cross over to take care of the left bank. ( I checked for blockages). Outlet is taken care of with 2 separate thermostats, identical designs of what is in our pickups. (the old engine had only 1 sensor, off of 1 bank) This time, I loaded up the injection pump, and had it checked out. This PT system is basically a very simple low pressure pump... which supplies between 100 and approximately 280 lbs of fuel to the 'rails' internal the heads. 100+/- would be idle speed, 280 is full fuel. I never made it home from the shop! I got a call from the pump man saying 'I think I found your problem'... hmmmm turns out PO had the pump turned up to 460 HP. I still had problems with that however! still no tell tale signs of piston top degradation, and/or huge exhaust temps!! So, since this engine series didn't have multiple piston, cam or injector combinations to achieve various HP levels, (which is typical of the 855 series) I was skeptical.. Don't forget, these HP levels are CONTINUOUS duty ratings.. not 5 second 'bursts' sitting on a dynamometer We went ahead and set it for 360, which is smack in the middle for the range it was TIMED for. I't's a fairly intense procedure to change the timing on these, flywheel housing, flywheel, rear cover comes off, cam gear comes off, new offset key is installed.. you better have ate your Wheaties that morning! That is almost 500 lbs of iron to be R and R'd!! Remember that rebuilt kit for the WP?? it came with a new cast iron impellor.. This is where it all comes to the final 'gosh dang'... moment! Last hour of final assembly, I needed a couple bolts to put some bracket on the WP. So I went to the original engine and 'robbed' some from it. So I figured to totally remove the wp completely just for giggles.. The PLASTIC impellor was chewed down.. Yah, I was getting just enough flow to keep some water flowing, but not near enough to circulate it throughout the entire block. the really hot water never made it past the sensor to signal 'hey dummy, you are overheating'... It just stayed back there and swelled up my pistons. which explains the extreme swings in temp. Now, I have 2 temp gauges, one for each head. and running full tilt, I see 2 degrees max variance between the 2, and rock solid 185-190. I've already surpassed any previous hours on rebuilds...by a factor of 2 so far! As far as the 'de tuning'.. I see zero differences in the setup. the workload (size of plow) I am putting to the tractor apparently never needed the extra fuel, so the 360 level is adequate. I'd like to tap into the fuel line to the heads to monitor pressure, just to see where I'm at in various conditions.. One thing I am seeing is a possible slight increase in exhaust temp... probably due to the coated pistons which reflect more heat up, rather than letting it soak into the skirts/rings/ cylinder walls.. 25 degrees is kinda a rough guess.. but still well within my 'safe zone'. Point of this whole post is, Check the simple stuff... a 200 dollar wp ended up curing a problem that cost me almost $15k spread out over 5 years. ONWARD to the next 'project'!! .

'old' is about right!! LOL

I can hear the groans....'geesh.. him again'. LOL anyway lifes' beatdowns aside, and a new ISP (no longer Hughes.net) I was fortunate to have a cell tower built about 6 miles from me so i thought i'd give it a whirl. I'm getting about double the speed up and down, and my current plan is 3x the data for approximately half the price of my late satellite provider. No blackouts due to cloud cover either..' Long and short of my absence is well, farming and ranching is highly mechanized, and the past couple of years has been soul sucking on my mental health... keeping stuff in running order.. Playing and upgrading with the Dodges was put on the total back burner.. I was fortunate to have minor issues to contend with on the faithful 2000 3500. Minor?? hmm.. well, rebuilding the front axle, and that IP i replaced was never right 'out of the box'.. it went south last year.. 1 or 2 day type stuff in my camp is considered 'minor'. So i considered myself lucky on the vehicle dept! I was mistakenly sent a HO pump, but only paid for the SO style.. and since it was the vendors mistake, they 'ate' the core difference. The new pump absolutely runs like a wild ape. ( now, don't tell me that 15 HP is going to make THAT much difference) My last replacement pump apparently was a 'dud'.. from the get go... I just didn't realize it was running that poorly, I really didn't have a comparison. economy is way up too, It'll knock out 18-19 mpg all day long empty, running 60-65 with those lovely duals. The previous replacement pump was 13.4, MAX, one time. Most of the time it was 12-13 Don't ask what it was when the trailer was attached! Nice talk with Mike this evening.... got me kinda up to speed on the site! Things look/sound exciting for the forum! Hope to be able to contribute to the cause here.. Later!! Robert

ok, I intentionally paid attention to my run out in the hills this weekend, loaded with cattle. I forced myself to hit the bottom of the hill at 1700, in 5th gear. I told my son to hit the stopwatch, the instant I floored it. It took exactly 6 seconds to lose 200 rpm, forcing me to downshift. Next hill, I hit at 2600. same thing, he timed me the instant I started up the hill, and floored it. rpm degradation was the same. 3 seconds per 100 rpm loss. I barely made it to the top. The difference was, I was on the bottom end of the torque curve, and had basically zero - no reserve. I lost my power band within 200 rpm. I had almost 1000 rpm of 'cush' before the torque fell off, forcing a shift. with the higher start rate. More 'power'? nope. speed burned off at the same rate... ( I don't ever want to run any vehicle this way ever again.) So, 'easier to roll through the hills'.... yes and no. Sure was 'easy on me'.. I didn't have to push the clutch in and downshift. 'easier on the engine'?? hmmmmm, jury is out on that one! CSM, you're right on the length of lever and amount of torque. Your personal hp never changes, but the speed you can turn a shaft with a short handle is much faster than one with a long handle! The amount of torque you can apply to a shaft is large when you have a long handle, but you can't race around a 30 foot handle fast enough to spin it very fast! LOL, back in physics class, I measured myself,(legs) I had .23 horsepower.. don't laugh! now, a 3 inch handle is something we can easily spin fairly fast, but we'd feel every little ounce of resistance! Our 'variable handle' in our engine (not the crankshaft.. it's a fixed throw) is the amount of fuel and air burning above the piston. It can be just enough to allow the engine to idle at 800 rpm, or enough to accelerate our truck up a hill.

If they would've been overfueled the same rate as this, No contest. They were set up to chug all day, day after day at that ancient rate capacity. 10 seconds of burst is a completely different story. Semi trucks would rarely have the throttle pushed to the rubber mat. I got a 903 cummins that was typically set up for anywhere from 275 up to 375 horsepower.. mine is on 320, Continuous duty.. When they were stuck in Coast Guard pursuit vessel, they were fueled for 1500 HP, 2880 ft. lbs, and 3000 rpm momentary duty. 45 minutes was what the limit was at this rate. (kinda weird, shoot... after 45 minutes, what's the difference?) LOL< probably out of fuel then!! 'overfueling' isn't necessarily just the level of what an engine can withstand before damage to the engine occurs... It's just any amount of fuel over and above the rated capacity. vehicle manufactures ( semi truck, ag tractor etc) look at the total package too. driveline,transmissions,clutches, frame.. everything must be able to handle the torque coming out of the engine... day after day.. Engine manufacturers know exactly what level an engine will self destruct at any level, over a certain time frame... ... and keep us (joe public) well away from it...

how is the miss now?