rancherman

This style of pump was originally designed to be driven with a love-joy style coupler. spider drive lug and rubber star.. all inline. No radial pressure.. I see they really don't run too much belt tension however. I've read posts where guys have run several hundred k miles... and the next one has issues right out of the box.. and after many calls to the manufacturer, still no satisfaction. Back in the box it goes. as far as the priming part.. any pump that is 'self priming' MUST be able to push the air out DOWNSTREAM of the pump. If that air cannot be moved, then there is no way liquid can be drawn into the impeller. So when we look at this system, there is a pressure regulator on the downstream side. The only way air can get past this is if it is greater than the pre set on the regulator. These roller pumps are NOT the most efficient air pump. The are a pretty good liquid pump.

I also am running my toyo 22re.. with the fleet 15/40. OP is 'up' about 2 needles width... and at least doesn't go to near 'zero' at idle anymore.. just curious.. did that 3.0 ever need head gaskets?

whatcha running in the 'yota'? Man, if you thought the oil debate 'here' is intense.. lol, you should see what's up in yotatech.com! it's vicious!

need the ecm, pcm etc from the 01-02 truck? or from the earlier version?

wow! there's a speed sensor on the fan?? (for your vintage) All fan clutches will have lateral movement... It's just the way the fluid drive is made. Your measurement is certainly 'right at the maximum'.. for a failing part. I've seen specs for 'up to 3/16's inch' being 'ok'. I'd still throw the belt back on without the clutch attached... just for giggles! (you gotta take it off anyways) Just don't wait too long... otherwise we will be reading; "fan sailed through radiator"...

I agree 100% Moparman! That's why I also said the flow characteristics that synthetics are probably a better choice at least in wintertime... at least in the cold start-up situation. No doubt the syn's will flow quicker! After either is up to temp, Then as long as either is still 'good' service wise... (depleted properties) the protection should be pretty dang even. It's hard not to think though, that easier flowing syns will take less hp @ the pump.. and saving fuel. I run either 0-30 or 5-30 in the jeep... I swear I have thicker fuel in the tank... than this oil going into the pan! I should've said too that the oils we were spinning in those big blocks was straight 50W Kendall... 100 psi @ idle... who knows what it was @ 6800 rpm! (gauge only went to 100) LOL< lets back up to the original intent of this thread! Killer223 wanted to change his oil out. couldn't find a certain brand, for a reasonable price. What happened?? I'll keep changing my oil every 100 hours.. +/- 5000 miles with my fleet 15w40. the 100 hours was a fairly common industry standard for mid sized diesels.. at least in the ag sector. But they also had larger oil pans, 5 gallons was very common. Those engines were also 'in the dirt' No one ever talks about how small our oil pans are, and how much faster the oil gets black. Same amount of carbon, but it is concentrated in a 3.5 gallon pan compared to a 5. It does make a difference. The extra 1.5 gallon would extend the service life of the oil too. These days, newer tractors pretty much are running 7.5 or more gallons in the pan. Voila' ! "extended service" ! You should see how fast my jeep gets black... with it's 7 quart pan!

well, I've had good luck finding Rotella t6 5-40 at wal mart, as well as Mobil 1. I run these in my Jeep. My 'other' engines I run all Conoco fleet 15-40 I'm going to the edge of the gang plank again here; Oil is going to get black no matter what the base oil is. The carbon passing the rings is going to end up in the oil. Now, dino oil will start to oxidize *darker brown* at a lower temp than synthetic But usually can't ever see it this color because of the black carbon, ... hence the longer service intervals with the synthetic. I do feel that in the whole scheme of things, and when facing brutal cold starts without any block heaters/garages... the synthetic does have it's advantages there. LOL, as far as the increased economy, I have little story here. back in the day we'd pre prime our big block Chryslers with a electric drill.. before installing the distributor. soon as the oil 'hit' the end of the line, you'd burn out a 3/8ths drill pretty quick if you weren't paying attention. (this was back when hand drills were pretty good too) And this was at maybe 150 rpm. Can you imagine the horsepower required to spin these pumps? I fully believe this is where most gains are today by using 'brand x' or type X oil. And not so much the lubricity of the oil itself. I won't advocate or condemn dino or synthetic... I will however tell anyone that says 'this guy swears by this' (in a truck that has 15000 miles)... shoot, ya gotta take that with a grain of salt! Now when a fleet owner says he runs 'x' in multiple rigs, with millions of miles between them.. This is a good set of results, Proven results.

Me too, It's hard not to 'like' the grease zerk, but dang it, the seals on the sealed components are far better to start with! I think if the component is ALWAYS in the dirt, submerged in water etc...... and the operator religiously greases, then the zerk is the way to go... as far as the originals... isn't is amazing? I've never had any cross, or ball joint last near as long as the originals... no matter the 'grade', or mode of lube!

exactly what 'problem' are they solving? a wallowed out parent bore? Curious.. I am going to do the 3500's soon. I did learn the 94-99 ram's used a little different dana 60, as compared to the 2000-2002's. The early Dana 60's ball joints shared the weight equally. the newer axle's lower ball joint hold 100%

I was going with yields from my youth, of 150-175... to today's 250-300. (in the same particular area) When I factored in the recent farm ground brought into production in the last 4-5 years, very marginal soils that had no business being plowed up. (very poor moisture and fertilizer holding capacity) THOSE soils would barely support native grass, let alone a high input crop such as corn. I took a wild swing to the fence, and said 'half'. There are good stewards such as your example, who rotate crops in a 2 or 3 yr. rotation, which can almost sustain the fertility level. But remember, only 1 year in 2 or 3 raises corn. (or any 'starch' crop...wheat) next year would be a short crop, or even fallow. This could be followed up with a 'green manure' type crop for the eventual corn crop on the 3rd year. and the switch in crops every year helps with weeds, disease.. It's a long lost art, and a very good one. This is not a continuous cropping scenario though. In the years that are planted to the 'main' crop... they do very well. But the fallow years must be averaged in too. either buttloads ;) of animal manure per acre (organic) or commercial fertilizer needs to be placed on continuous, year after year, type scenarios. Depleted soil raises nothing. Convincing farmers with millions of dollars in overhead, land, and equipment to downshift and go with a 'least input, least income (gross)' is/will be a ahem, 'tough row to hoe'... especially with the young buck generation being only taught from the 'experts' of the 'maximum in, maximum out' type operation.. I fear we are 'caught' in a very nasty 'rut'. I'm not condemning or advocating any type. But I am willing to 'listen' to the consumer, and when there is a 'need', (and the money) to back it up.. I will sure fall in line! Right now, I market my cattle as 'non-steroid' type cattle. I still use chemical de-wormers, antibiotics are used to treat illness- not continuous, and vaccines are used to help prevent illness. I cannot claim 'all natural'.. just because the corn they eat is GMO corn, and the certain chemicals that are occasionally used for treatment of some ill calves. .....you and I get sick from time to time, and seek 'treatment' from the doc, and so do cattle. Pneumonia is probably the most common.

hey, before you button it back up... why don't you knock off the fan and thread the belt back up... just to make sure it was the clutch... Sometimes a pulley that isn't under tension (lack of belt) will 'sound fine' when spun by hand..

Actually Liveoak, back in the 70's when certain trade embargoes to various countries for exactly what you talk about.. OIL, and grain. Our infamous gov't decided to 'use' our grain exports as leverage to the 'then developing' mid east countries... They wanted our grain/food, we wanted the cheap oil. We also sold our grains at below costs to these developing oil countries so OTHER interests couldn't have access. Can you imagine if S America was able back then to supply the majority? THEY would've been the worlds leading ag producing area by now! At the time, food shortages and rationing here in the US (from WWII and earlier from the 20's and 30's dust bowl/deprecion) were STILL in the back of policy makers minds. "never again" was the theme in DC. So, In a nutshell, policy dictated WAY too much production... in order to control world markets, and keep the American people flush with the world's cheapest and plentiful food. ...enter stage left: Farm programs, with their macro management of number of acres farmed, and what they are planted into. We were almost forced to cooperate. If we didn't, we'd not get any parity or price supports to the dismal prices for this 'abundant' crop we were encouraged to plant. For the next 20 years.. the American farmer just 'got by'. a lot were not so lucky. I think I must re state my earlier thought on food prices.. "supply and demand" really isn't the whole side of the story. "fear, specuation, greed, and opportunists, of a future starving world probably is closer to the truth. 4 years ago, here in the AG sector, we were preached to that " worlds population to double by 2025" so in essence, 'go for it' we can't go wrong. Corn spiked to 7-8 dollars, wheat was 12-13 dollars. Magically, crude oil was $160+!!! Watch very closely my friends.. the parallelism between crude price and grains is almost uncanny. So, who knows how intertwined Big Oil, Big Gov't, World banks are.... All it takes is one measly hiccup to fold the whole show.

I'll take a stab here... Lets go back to organic fertilizer. sprays, and non gmo seeds. Our Nations average bpa (bushels per acre) would be gutted to half of what it is now.. I don't know about other foodstocks such as the vegetables, but it wouldn't be good with out some sort of protection from bugs, molds, smuts, fungus.. True with the fact veggies are grown in huge fields now. Which is far more difficult to keep the plant healthy than a small garden plot. (stress from confining any living organism causes disease) So, do we want a over supply of food, which keeps the price low.. or take our chances and be forced to import food from 'god only knows what country' in much more quantity? What would happen? well, God Bless America! IF food suddenly got even 'double', The number of back yard gardeners would double, people would start learning how to preserve their own food again... the direct sales (farmers markets) would grow even more. *it's already happening* Shoot, there's already a pretty large segment of folk who are buying this 'natural type' foods... and damn the cost. I'm not advocating any type of policy here. Personally, I don't care for any unproven type of GMO induced problems. In our 'race' to feed the world, (plus keep our cars full of 'cheap' fuel) I fear some steps in food safety have been untested/unproven. Only time will tell. What does it boil down to? supply and demand is what drives our food dollar... I truly believe there are far better base materials for making renewable fuels. Corn just happened to be the most plentiful and 'at risk-- perishable crop' at the time of the ethanol industry inception. We had gobs and gobs of bins full of 4,5,6 year old corn sitting around for most of the 80's.. and no way of ever seeing out of that glut. Not the case 3 years ago!! Biomass is the future.. Keep corn for feeding livestock! Cane, and certain grasses are going to be the king of alcohol

yes! by all means, take it for a drive! There should be a plate too that should say what they are. Now, just don't be surprised if all you can get out of it is 75 mph. I have no idea if that 6 speed is OD.

Funny phenom right now with the ethanol industy... It's originally set up as the liquid fuel (alcohol) was to be the primary income, then the sale or disposal of by- products of the process was to be the 'necessary evil' of the whole. These are the grain by products, (distillers mash, great livestock feed) plus gobs and gobs and gobs of CO2. Some of the Co2 is captured for industrial use, but most is blown back to atmosphere. Did I mention there was a LOT of Co2?? Nowadays, the alcohol fuel is the 'byproduct', and they are actually in the 'black' only with the sales of the by-product. Right now, the CBT (Chicago board of trade) has March ethanol @ about 1.40 gallon.... (don't forget... no taxes yet). Cash corn is about $4.40. industry standard is 2.6 gallons ethanol per bushel. Soooo, it's costing them $1.70 for a gallon of ethanol. (.30 cent loss) This is only for the cost of raw materials... no labor, equip, or overhead! Only when they sell the by products, to cattle and hog producers, do they 'see' breakeven.. Just watch! corn prices keep creeping up..... and crude is still not finding bottom yet.. sumthin gotta give!

As with any commercial truck, check the axle ratio. You may have 'in town' type gears, or highway type gears... just check to make sure whatcha are in for... and see if they are what you need for YOUR application! I'd imagine you'd find anywhere from 3.70's all the way up to 5.5' or even 6.0's Then again, if this truck is really what you want, a gear swap isn't too bad... time or money wise.

Box truck? You may want to re think the exhaust.. black streak down the side of the box.

Got the wife a new Nikon D3200 for Christmas! She was really into portrait and landscape photography when we were married, had all the 'good stuff' for the period. (Hasselblad) As the rigors of being 'in demand' wore her down.. lets face it, taking pictures of everyone's joyous activities (weddings, family reunions etc) on the weekend, dealing with 'drunk Uncle from Hoboken'... deadbeat accounts.. she just said "enough"! So, for the last 20 years, been happy with the various point-n-shoot type cameras. Last couple were Nikon Coolpix, and been happy with the features, EXCEPT for the trap door on the battery/SD. total junk design on the latch! So, I know there are better Nikons out there, but for $485 I got the camera body, and 2 lenses. This one is NOT the VR type lenses ( 18-55 and 55-200mm ) 24.1 mega pixel, 4 frame per second rapid fire, and of course, video.

Thanks mntom! that was the perfect answer to my subliminally loaded question!! You probably have noticed, in my couple years of being 'here'.. a lot of my questions are outside-the-box, hopefully to not only answer my questions, but anyone else reading. ( I don't mind being the sacrificial goat) See how I drew in the perfect answer from Yankneck? (# of reflashes on ecm) This kinda how we've homeschooled our kids... we ASK a lot of questions.. to open the dialog and get their brains churning... Is there a simple... almost a " pcm for dummies".. type flow chart that gives the basics on how the various systems tie-in/tied together or are managed by the pcm? Not a schematic.. maybe Mike's already forged one in here.

On a related note, I seen a pop-up news flash that said something about China, and they are now realizing the implications on their air quality for producing the worlds goods... hmmmm, who woulda thunk it?? Interesting to see now where this leads! I can one possible end; their going to have to increase the cost of their goods and rubber dogsh!t, (ever since the movie "Air America" I've called anything with 'made in china' "rubber dogsh!t" ) to cover the cost of upgrading the pollution controls on the factories... Then it will put them more on a level playing field with US. (still have us whupped on labor cost tho)

hmmmm... it'd been too easy to run the fss through the asd.. *just speculating here* especially when we learn how many systems overlap each other. I'm surprised they didn't! Even in the 90's they were pretty safety minded. Lots of posts of this on CF. guys with dead dashes, but still shows charging on that gauge. Most immediate fear is the pcm is dead/dying. Then the responses come in to check and double check bulk head connectors and grounds. Then the many responses to 'check the CSS' Really?? you'd only lose the tach with a bad CSS wouldn't you? I see it's pretty common to lose the pcm's capacity to externally regulate the alt.... and like this OP ^^^^ a 20 dollar 'stand alone' regulator works just fine.

offhand, I'd say he is facing 2 different problems. From your schematic, I agree the 12v 'pull' is good when he is cranking.. but engine dies right after releasing the key. 'Hold' is the problem. This is where he should find a problem with the green tracer'd wire I can't however see how the green tracer'd wire would effect the gauge cluster, overhead or the radio. For some reason, I thought the PCM did a 'little' for engine control... such as shutting down the engine in a roll over.. crash, etc. but I see the pcm really only does gauge control, tach, anti lock? alternator? airbag? AC? hence the reason for my first post.. I stand corrected on the PCM's job in the 12v. About the only 'trouble code' would be "Engine not running" ha ha.. (which is good, I'm on the brink of diving into my 12v) LOL. The one machine I have with a electric fuel shut off, is our combine with a ford genesis diesel. It's 'hold' however is energized through a OP sender... Ya gotta have OP otherwise the engine won't run. Makes it a little 'prickly' on cold mornings.

I bet you Cali folk never dreamed of 2 dollar fuel was possible again!

no doubt having the head off is the most 'sanitary' way of doing the studs.. lots of guys have done it with head on, one stud at a time, with good results. Find or make a long extension for a blow gun, and put it clear down each hole... clear to the bottom. That should get any loose crud that may have fallen down into there. You can't spend too much time doing this! Sometimes even with the head off, and I don't have a chasing tap on hand, I'll shoot some sort of cleaner, brake cleaner or even a penetrating oil... let it soak, and blow the snot out of it.. Do it until the fluid coming back at your face (yep.. gotta go somewhere) is clean. Just make sure it's ALL (dirt and fluid) is out of the hole! ARP had a snippet in their FAQ:s: Sometimes a steel shim gasket may be just a tad 'off', and when the stud is screwed into it's hole, there's a chance of barking the threads as it's run down... Me personally, I'm more worried about the rust, carbon, that is stuck to the bore of the head..(where bolt or stud goes through) and how much of THAT gets knocked into the threaded part as the new fastener is installed.

well, you did in fact find out the 12v is indeed THE truck to have! (piece of baling wire... and away you go) Do you remember any harsh bumps just as stuff would conk out? you said your gauges went dead.. just the gauges , or the whole dash go dark? Sounds like a 'run' circuit.. bad key switch, or wiring up the steering column? Next time it happens, jiggle the key and see if the dash comes to life again... or you have to 'cycle' it completely to get juice. Then if no difference there, would it restart or at least crank going immediately to 'crank' after it dies? (not returning to 'off' first) if it does, then I'd think it's your pcm.. especially since reading you said you had to mess with the voltage reg..