rancherman

any tips ?? Quoteyes I do! I've used the shop vise/socket/mandrel-of-whatever-is-handy-at-time, hammer..... And the occasional press over the years.. No matter what method, make dang sure the cross is started squarely in cup before pressing cup into yoke... then slide the cross out of first cup a little to engage second cup as you start pressing on second cup ( but not far enough to have needles fall out of position on first cup).And, no matter what method I use, I always 'center' the cross: Invariably, the yoke ears will be pressured, in or out, and there will be tension on the cross. (tight) Take a hammer, and (while holding the shaft in your hand, NOT installed on the truck or in a vise) smartly smack the weld area of the yoke.. one or two whacks under each 'ear' will release and center the cross. DON'T STRIKE THE TUBE! Just above the weld and below where the ear is is your target areaI use a 1 1/2 pound hammer with a tapered head to minimize strike area.Don't need to 'wind up' like a major league pitcher, just a good ol 'ping' or 2 will do. If after 2 or three strikes, it doesn't 'free up'.. it's on the other side of center. Just go to the opposite ear you just whacked and give that one 1 strike.Why do I want em 'free'? Snug means heat.Heat and grease don't mix. And too soon they won't be snug at all! (NOT the way we want things to progress!)I thought there was a spot you could rotate the front shaft and with a couple of extensions, you could get to those flange bolts.. I used my son to hold the nut, and with several extensions.. found a spot where a breaker bar/ratchet worked.

I guess we are a dodge 'family'... '99 neon, '96 stealth, and of course the 'visible' Rams! The Ram 'train' and of course: - - - Updated - - - Thats what I meant to say! LOL, The 5 speed has a pretty good step in one of the gear changes (what I've read).... the 6 spd fills that gap. Thinking back, I've never driven a 5 speed! Ohhh... this thread is gonna be a lot easier if you guys could just READ MY MIND!

I've been thinking about that too; 3.5 vs. 4.1 gear. In our 3500 ram, it's got 3.5's, and I guess with the 6 speed, low gear has always been adequate. I typically will run that 3500 in 6th unloaded at highway speeds (60-70mph) and 5th when pulling one of our loaded trailers (55-60mph) I'll probably keep the 3.5's for now, and when I need 'crawler' type speed, I'll just shift into 4 wheel low. My plan is to put the 6 speed into this project, and gear spacing is much better than the 4500's...Rolling hills are what i typically run in around here.

:spend:Got home last night with my '98 (I was misinformed, I originally thought it was a '97) This truck was originally sold new in Littleton Colo, and spent most of it's life in Colorado, and ended up in the Panhandle of Nebraska. Salt wasn't much of a factor on this truck. Doesnt really matter to me though, cause it was rolled on it's side. I got it mainly for donating everything I need (driveline wise) into my '94This truck came with the snow plow option and tow package. It's got the Dana 80 rear with limited slip 3.54's DHD Tc, It was a nv4500 (now missing). Extended cab, long box. I got a good cab and box as part of the deal.... which I won't need... (For sale!!)Options it came with are pw ps ac cc AND, an undeployed air bag!!! Plus, LOL, 3/4 tank of fuel! whoo, that's 75 bucks recouped right there!It's amazing the pile of parts that come out of a dismantled cab..... I'll bet there is an unclaimed lotto ticket in that pile somewhere!!! Thank goodness I have a couple of parts trucks on hand to donate screws, bolts, clips.... etc Soon as wife finds the camera, I'll get some pics before I unload the beast... and LET THE GAMES BEGIN!!

most of house, about 2500 sq ft. ( I'll tap into existing forced air duct work). Thinking a 150,000 rated stove will give me 80-90% of needed heat.

Need a solid replacement cab?

Finding a 'good' 5600, is proving to be a little tuff! all the hot leads I find either:email me back with "yes, still have trans'' or,Sorry, ya just missed it! too bad, so sad....But when I ask about miles, or at least send a pic to confirm the actual existance of transmission.... POOF. zip zero nada.Sure, tons of 'fresh rebuilt' for ~3500 plus core..... So, just for giggles, I searched 'swapping G56 behind a 12v'.It's been done, and actually not to intense! uses same engine adapterNeeds 13 inch clutch (and subsequent starter spacer if original was for nv4500)Needs short pushrod for the throwout bearing.Does not have speedo provisions, so if going into a pre '97, need to tap speed info from rear axle speed sensor. (Dakota Digital is supposed to have the interface box)Easy to change from 2wd over to 4wd. (rear housing seal is different on each). main shaft splines/length is same regardless. In either case, any Dodge TC is supposed to bolt up. I read the pros and cons to each trans, I am wondering now if going with a trans that is still actually made today is the way to roll? parts are going to be tougher to find on all the NV's.I was leary of the aluminum case for sure, and several sites state the lack of bearing support inside the case as a leading cause of breakage.I think this trans is still new enough, that copyright has the aftermarket guys on a short chain for now. That'd probably change over time.I found one right in my back yard.. from a 2007 wrecked truck.Whats the opinion here? TOMORROW, (Thanks to the snow today) I'll have enough time to retrieve my '97!!!!! PROJECT 'ranch truck' will offically begin!

what is a good choice for an add-on indoor wood furnace? I've been eyeballing a Firechief fc700 It's rated at 150000 btu's. Looks like a pretty good unit.Why do I wait for the snow (yep, 4 inches last night) to start thinking about keepin the house warm?

The wiring (engine run harness), pcm, (the one that is for the automatic) will need to stay with the engine/trans combo. Don't forget the trans need life blood too! Then, I am not sure if the gauges will work. Are Rams OBDI or II in '96? Before I decided on a mechanical 5.9 transplanted into my '94, I looked at various combos.. ie; the 24 valve originally was going to be my first pick. After looking at what it was going to take because I had no donor truck to steal from... coming up with the proper wiring, then the pcm, then the gauges... (mine is obd I )Sure, I could of built a simple 'engine run harness' to operate the 24 valve... and then go back and use piggyback sensors to fire the trucks pcm. I was going to run either an Allison or go gearbox. You are facing automatic trans management too. I'd say take everything from the donor truck, and get that going first. What are you planning on putting back in the donor truck?

North central Nebraska.. ohh.. geez, FIREWOOD! I knew I forgot something else to do this fall yet@!!@ - - - Updated - - - I'll go with 1000 or more in our dually. They should be outlawed when it's slick! I agree with ISX, 500 or more in a single wheel app works wonders.. Just make sure to fasten it down! (or at least put it clear to front of box). Keeping towards the rear gives you more traction on rear axle, but it could become a projectile in a hard stop/crash.. you wont like the result!

dang..I thought I'd make it easy for the seller to just count the splines... instead of 'eyeballing' a shaft.Not much difference in 1.25 and 1.375I 'googled' nv5600 swaps. Found maybe 3 posts with the 12 spline being small, and 10 spline being the large.And at least one stating just the opposite!NOW yours says the same! (thanks for posting!)Can't trust anything on this 'net.:banghead: Give my tran rebuilder a call in the morning!

Got a 'lead' on a supposedly good used 5600, and before I cannonball down to look at it, I want to make sure it's the larger 1-3/8ths input shaft.The guy I called wasn't sure, but thought it's out of a 2001, (Should be the larger if original)... didn't the smaller shafts have a different spline count? One has 10 and the other 12?

I see you run a 13 inch clutch. Did you redrill your 4500 flywheel, or go with a 5600 flywheel/starter spacer combo?I see a lot of aftermarket clutches come with flywheels as a complete kit.

we are desperate for any kind of moisture here.... but sure would need a little more time to finish up harvest!Had 2 days of 60+ mph winds last week, and that flattened a lot of corn. Can you imagine Adding a little snow on top of that would compound the problem! So, I COMMAND ol man winter to stay away for another month! *PooF* (waves my magic wand)

sounds exactly like what I'd like!Im assuming you went with an electric fan??? I know some of my posts get a little 'start in the middle of a thought' type posts, LOL, In essence, been running our '00 cummins for about 9 years now. Bone stock. This truck is owned with my FIL, and my ranch business has grown to NEED more than the one 'puller'. You know the feeling you get when you can keep up or surpass the $50k+ 'new shiney paint' with a little research and elbow grease? It makes me smile! I got nothing against the new stuff....SOMEONE HAS TO BUY IT FIRST!! I'll be there after it's depreciated!!You know the early days of hot rodding? bigger cam, bigger carb, headers...etc etc.. and the result??? Ran great from 3000 rpm and up! Not so much for in town type conditions.. That is what I didn't want to have happen with this. (no bottom end torque) Thats why I asked my original question, I have zero experience behind the wheel of a hot diesel. Just wanted to know what to expect. I had a suspicion that your mods would basically only effect how and when fuel is added (getting 'into' the governor) (which would be akin to a four barrel carb, and only using the primary side of the carb... the secondaries are there when you need it) I know exactly what you are talking about on your explanation of the 'tight' feeling on the governor. That'll be easy to learn on this app.This '97 is supposed to have just over 200,000 miles, and since it'll be pulled for the transplant, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to at least roll new bearings in it? The kid I got it from said he drove it pretty much as what the stock setting would allow it. Are the rod bolts good for a second life? or is it wise to replace each time?Would you guys like me to have a build thread on here? I'd kinda like to show off my skills, (or lack of) and maybe someone could chime in when you see me screwing up! I know this is basic stuff I am doing, done a million times already.. I wouldn't want to use up my welcome!Thanks ISX

This application will be probably 75% pulling trailers, 25% unhooked. If I can get up to 20 mpg empty, maybe it'll see even more use as the family truckster!The 'kid' in me wouldn't mind a little extra 'under the hood' either. Back in my 'youth'.. I couldn't afford the 'new and shiney'.. I had to build it. It's kinda a testament to my roots: "use your head, hands, and back" to get whatcha need. (I've never owned a new vehicle) I remember when the NEW 1994 Dodge came out! I drooled all over them, (thinking in about 10 years, I'll snag one out of the junkyard and fix it up) well, It didn't take quite that long, and it wasn't wrecked! Also, when I build something, I already have a pretty good knowledge base on how to fix it down the road! I see a lot of farmers sitting in the feild 'waiting for a tech' to show up and sort out their 'problems' on their new shiney paint... While my mechanical 'rust buckets' across the road are finishing up the day's work! I Just don't want a temperamental 'bronco' that is impossible for use as a 'driver'. I have a pretty good handle on what just about any of my machines are doing at most times.. An "Operator" per se. I have a good feel on what it takes to 'spoon feed' an engine.. and am sure I'd be quick to learn the new 'curve' on this setup.Wife is pretty quick to learn too, I'd think if I tell her to just roll into the throttle, and shift at a certain rpm, she'll be close enough. 99% of the 'work use' will be me behind the wheel.I guess I'm looking at it this way: nothing is permanent! (no, divorce isn't on the horizon!!) I can always go back to stock if needed LOL although if this thing REALLY is fun to drive..

Ok, you probably are aware of my project: putting a '97 cummins+6spd(2002) into my 'ultimate ranch vechicle'Which is my '94 2500. (the one I snagged in Wyoming)Very interested in using you 'ultimate' P7100 mods, but I'm curious on it's total driveability. I'm not the only one to use this truck when completed.. Wife will jockey it too! I just got her used to NOT USING THE ACCCELERATOR when starting from a dead stop.. (actually relying on the built-in torque of the stock cummins) Our experience is based on our '00 cummins with 6 speed.what does your recommendations on the P7100 do for 'out of the hole'? Will it react similar to the stock vp44, or will a little right-foot-work be needed to 'start-rolling'?I'll probably get the truck together 'stock'.... and make sure everything is working properly, before doing any mods.

Got that '97 dodge bought yesterday, now need to go back with the trailer and retreive all the parts!It was laid over fairly hard. the cab is trapezoid. I agreed to buy the replacement cab and box as part of the deal. (It's an extended cab and 8 foot box) Those are for re-sale, as well as the frame. (anyone interested???) He had most of the old cab pretty much stripped, And has a huge box of all interior parts. It'll take a little time to make sure it's all there before I leave his place. (I hope he saved the screws):banghead:I bought it contingent of it at least running... so when I show back up he'll have a battery hooked up to it.Bellhousing is still on the block. What I do know: 205k miles,Does not come with the nv4500, but still has the heavy tc (has a lead on a 'good' nv5600)hasn't run for about 2 years, but antifreeze was full and good colored.. engine oil was good and black. Truck has AC, cruise, power seats, windows. Guarantees me that the ONLY thing he has sold off of it is the 4500..3.55 gear, limited slip. Plans are to take parts off this donor truck and transplant it into my very nice '94. I'll need to do the clutch pedal swap, and not sure.. probably the dash/all wiring/ pcm due to the fact of the obd1 verses obd2 Sounds like I have the correct trans crossmember for the upgrade to the 5600.. I have the wide one.Need to shorten my rear drive shaft... and hunt down the longer front shaft.I might of found better (cheaper) deals, but I need to get busy! I've had my '94 for over a year now, and it's READY to be resurrected!pics to follow!

What is this 'spacer' I read about.. ' starter spacer'.. Is the clutch deeper than one on the 4500 ?If I go with a 5600 , I better dang well know the parts needed.Longer trans= shorter driveshaft.. = longer TC shift rod = stretch out the vac lines to tc = same to electrical as long as I have the heavy crossmember... I'll be good for a swap.

I was getting a nice warm feeling that someone finally figured it out! Right up to the paragraph stating they no longer sell those parts... :banghead:ISX: how do you use your truck? Looking at what you have for estimated power, and economy... I'm thinking about doing a copy cat on my project! (hint... be prepared for an 'occasional' question!)

now that I got the '00 3500 woes behind me.. time to get serious in wrangling up parts for my ranch truck! I have the '94 2500 original diesel pickup I bought last year. The Automatic went south, and the previous owner basically sold parts off of it. I bought it mainly for body parts to fix up my other rams... BUT I have decided to put her back on the road. So, in some of my earlier posts, I wrote how maybe I'd go with a 24 valve, and possibly throw the Allison 1000 behind it. Then figure out how to wire it all up. I've done a little searching, and getting a 24 valve already mated to the allison (sae #3 bellhousing) from a medium duty rig (fed ex, tater chip etc) was going to run about 5k and up. Then, the adapter and output shaft to mount my transfer case.. I'd need to find a dodge air to air cooler, radiator, engine mounts, fab a trans mount, fit the driveshaft.. Then either go with the 98.5 and up pcm, wiring harness, probably have to get the gauges to match... OR go with a simple 'engine run' harness, and build a mechanical dash. (Not run through truck pcm). This would push my investment to 10k?? This is assuming nothing needs to be rebuilt! Today, I found a rolled on side 96 ram 2500 with 4X4, nv 4500 and the original 12v cummins. 200k miles. He already found a new cab, some glass.. and it's not too far from me to go and check out! He told me the nv4500 might be sold, but has a '04 nv5600 he'd sell . 3500$ for everything but the trans. (not sure how high up the tree he will be on the 5600) This sure would speed up my parts hunt, all in one score. I am concerned about the nv4500, has anyone figured out how to keep 5th gear on the shaft? and would it take the punishment of heavy hauling/increased hp ( I'd like to build the 12v to ~300-350~)... or would I be better off to snag the Nv 5600? If it is a true '04, it should have the larger input shaft. I like the idea of going with a mechanical engine, and trans... LESS wiring issues! here is a poor pic of my '94

oh man, I'd leave it till the bitter end... the original electrical components are far superior than these made in "El Mexico".... Although: The one I got from rock auto.. I got the airtex-wells, and the box said it was made in USA.. (the box? or the actual component?) Let's just assume its here! It was about 42 bucks. I googled 'what to do when crank sensor wont come out' LOL... funny you can google just about anything! Most guys who have snapped off the end, had success by screwing a deck screw down the center, then pulling on the head of the screw. One guy said he was going to push the dang thing into the oil pan and retreive it later It's either a 15 minute job, or 4 hours! (have a really good 10 mm box end wrench for the starter bolts!) Joe gorilla musta assembled mine! - - - Updated - - - yepper, I used vice grips to (lightly snag) onto 'what was left of the square part'..... and every time it slipped off.... the available 'square-to-snag-onto' was getting smaller and smaller.. and my sphinter got tighter and tighter..

It's being a REAL bast*** !! got the starter off, the bolt holding the retaining clip out, and even popped the dipstick tube up. I Can turn it freely.... but the dang o-ring has got a death grip! Does that have a groove it indexes in? or am I facing a dozen years of heat making that oring a permanent part of the block? Last thing I want to do is break it off flush with the block! :banghead: going to spray some penetrating blaster.... maybe that'll help break loose the oring Am I missing something? - - - Updated - - - worked like a champ! hosed it down with pb blaster, and wiggled it around, then it came right out! was some rust/gunk on the outboard side of the o-ring.

I think you nailed it with the 'normal' type diesels: probably not going to see the extreme temps competition will bring.(and, when I see higher spikes.... I'll downshift or reduce load to drop temp) Thats the main reason for my pyrometer in the first place! (ag tractor)

UPS guy showed up yesterday while I was out finishing up combining beans.. perfect timing too (it's kinda drizzling out this morning!) now I'll have a day to 'play' in the shop I'll go ahead and change up my crank position sensor while under it too.Anyway, my new AD 100 with parallel frame mount is now sitting all over the kitchen floor, and all the pieces are inventoried.Nice looking parts!I did a quick read on the installation.... and looks like a well thought out process. I'll probably not cut the lines to fit, and just coil up any extra slack.I like the idea of mounting the 12V supply from the back of the alternator.