rancherman

meh, no problemo on multi injection with our 12v's:whistle:DUAL PUMP'D p7100... all it takes is $$... pretty sure 'sphincters' are not required either!

:banghead: I work with a lot of injectible medicines here.. (everything is cc's)... I had my head on backwards when I read your post about MM3!!! I work with Ml's, which is 1 cc! uggg! my mistake! thanks btw CC's per 1000 injection cycles is the same thing as MM3 per single injection cycle. Your 140+14 works both ways.

just curious, why is the cyl pressure lower, but egt higher? :shrug:Also, those mm3 aka cc's, numbers are "per 1000 events'?Thanks

Exactly. ^^^^You know, it's hard for me to get excited about 'changing' the way things are with our Nation's problems... These guys created/allowed this mess in the first place! I'd be pretty arrogant of me to think 'they' are the answer! The great PERPETUAL MOTION MACHINE in DC is 'well-oiled'On a possible related note, has anyone tried to purchase a rifle lately? 2-3 weeks waiting for stock orders is common. (back ordered) AK' S and AR's are impossible to find. methinks 'we the people' is getting a lil 'mindful'??

I really have decided it's not a 'blue vs. red' debacle. It's a 'We the People' vs. ALL POLITICIANS.Sure, they go into DC riding on their 'promises', but 'fall in line' as soon as they take up residence in their 'new' career.I get weary of listening to the promises that 'wax' poetic Patriotism. All these guys/gals are, are game show hosts which get elected with money from special interests.I've been voting since 1980, and this year was the hardest to get myself to the booth! I mean, what kind of Country is it to vote 'for the least evil'???When my son came home from 1 tour in Iran, 2 in Afganistan, I started thinking about what it means to 'serve' our country. If he was willing to stop a bullet for the sake of our Presidents' wishes and be paid about $15k a year for his 'Patriotism'..............then I would think our duly elected official should get no less. If they truly want to 'serve' their country, and do so not for monetary gain, then put them on the same pay scale as our fine military folk they dictate to. put em up in dorm type rooms. Basic living, minimum wage. Maybe then, they would actually 'fix' something! (do their job, and get the hell out of there)I can't believe the 'smiles' these jackasses have on their face when being interviewed, or caught on camera! Do they not realize what is going on in OUR COUNTRY??? And it's because of THEIR POLICIES??? They gotta realize, just because they may not of voted for a certain hairbrained law or policy, they were PART OF THE TEAM THAT DID. Hell, I wouldn't want to show my face if I was part of that!Now I hear of rumors of having a 'infinite' debt. No more ceilings. Just keep on writing checks. Brilliant.:banghead:

at slow idle, piston speed is slow enough to 'use' the retarded timing... then the higher the rpm will start to show the effects of late timing??? Of course on an unloaded engine it's easy to feel/hear.As it warms up.. combustion gets easier, and possibly firing quicker? (which is akin to more timing)...You noticed a rpm drop with 20* @ idle. I think you might have found the upper limits to timing @ idle. (engine is now firing too much 'against' itself). In the CR engines.. do they have multiple injection events? If they do, maybe a series of smaller 'shots' can be done closer to tdc (or after) and still have the same results as one large shot. :shrug:And this brings up another question (12v vs. CR)When the injector is 'fired' on the CR... that is AT the point of injection. Our 12v's have about 12" of line, then the pop valve to overcome...THEN it's 'firing'. (maybe that alone is the difference).They need time (degree's) to actually 'git er done'???? What i'm trying to say here is: a mechanical pump @ 14* may be way late as to a CR's 14*.This is just a 'shot' in the dark!

:doh:I don't know what I was thinking! Even if the convertor is locked up.. (valve is open to allow hydraulic pressure to plates in tc) the pump has to be turning FIRST to make pressure to engage.It's a 'what came first'... chicken or the egg.. convertor has to turn the pump... pump is needed to engage the lockup.. :doh:LOL< I was distracted here by the great smells starting to come out of the kitchen now!Happy Thanksgiving!

I didn't know about the RE trans.... I have that RH in my gasser 2500 that I use a cobbled up 'switch'.to lock it up. I ran a parallel wire-to-ground through a toggle in cab.. I can hit that switch, and it'll be locked up in any gear, even in 1st. I did it not for economy.... but to keep more oil going thru the cooler! Those killer loads of hay I haul, would very rarely get out of 2nd gear, maybe hit 40 mph max... and until the tcc locks up... there is NO oil going to the cooler! kinda bass ackwards isn't it? I knew no lock up till 3rd... But I figured it was either ecm or internally (trans) controlled... but still would require the tcc lockup to be 'grounded' to actuate :shrug:Apparently, one of my previous rebuilds (one of many! ) had the valve body modded to make this possible!

turn your headlites on, then hit the key. what do the lights do then? do they die out rightaway, then slowly come back after releasing the key? CHECK your grounds! They'll fool ya with batt voltage until loaded. I hate the negative cables dodge uses.... what a hair ball coming out of that clamp!!If they stay bright, check your small wire on the starter whilst cranking.. if good, check your 12v large wire at starter too. (while attempting to crank) If both show good batt volts, then It's the starter/solenoid.As far as locking up the convertor, theoretically it should work. the 2 wire lock up has 12 volts ALL the time, and the opposing wire goes back to ground. (switching part) Unlocked is open circuit, locked is grounded...completing the circuit. ummm... be careful so when it does start, you can quickly 'unplug' the locked part!!!!!! You don't want to crash into the rear of the pulling vehicle. Just kick it into Neutral... I wonder if 1st gear is high enough to get a diesel to turn over?? you might just slide the tires. I guess it would take about 50 feet or more to get enough hydraulic pressure to get the 1st gear clutch to engage.(trans pump needs to be turning first)This is my experience with RH trans.... I can't see where it'd be different with the RE's...edit:Reread your op, I see you have the tcc switch! can't hurt to try.. Just don't ruin Thanksgiving dinner by smashing into a light pole..

go look at it, and check out all the things the guys here talked about.If it's still whatcha want... flash him the cash. I'd start at 10k. He'll know you aren't a tire kicker. Go back in a week (I'll bet he still has it) maybe sweeten it a tad... but don't ever let him know how much you can get ahold of~ If it gets sold beforehand... DON'T SWEAT IT! Lots of Dodges' out there.Look at it like this: a business. not a personal or emotional decision.Ask him WHY is is for sale?? "I need the cash" is what YOU want to hear!You can take a bone stocker, for less money (for the truck) and do exactly what that guy has done...plus have the satisfaction of doing it yourself! (or learning how-to). Lots of guys in 'here' are more than willing to help with suggestions/tips. I very rarely bid-up anything that has 'mods'.

Firing that up sure would get the chickens a cackling... and really ____ off the neighbors~ Good find Mike:thumbup2: Ingersoll-Rand air motor^^^ just a touch longer than our oem starters. I'd have to look around to see where cummins originally mounted the air compressor... belt or direct drive? (usually off the 1/2 speed cam drive/injector drive). then carrying around about 30 gallon tank to hold your air

ISX:I guess we could always rig up an air-starter! (for the days when willing people to push start arent available) I really thought those would been seen on-the-street more these days for the "gotta-have-something-different-crowd"PSShhhhssssss.... then a 60,000 rpm rotor flies into action! Innocent unsuspecting bystanders really JUMP!

nice sterile way of helping to start a cold engine! ^^^^I have a couple of 'antiques' around here that use an actual fireball inside the intake. It's a drawn out process of holding a button in..(which heats a white hot element)..... then pushing another button (which releases a set amount of liquid diesel) poof! you have about 1 second to start cranking.. It actually works pretty good!My 903 cummins has a little porthole to veiw the fireball (to see if it's working or not).

At a previous job we had a service contract with Ameripride linen company to do all the service work on their rigs, They were all GM chassis with V8 gassers both big and small blocks, we used Conoco 15-40 oil and they ran it up to 10K miles on all oil changes, We only replaced one engine with low to them mileage of 250K miles andd that was due to a waterpump leak ands over heated it. They had a lot of 300-400K mileage gassers that were running strong with 15-40 Conoco dyno oils since new. That made a statement to us all of the quality of Conoco lubes and capability of things that most sweat about going a mile over 3k miles on a conventional thinking oil change.

leatherseats.com nice looking covers there.If by chance you find a good set in the salvage yard, They'll be either: pricey, and close to unraveling too.

I'll bet your oil isn't as black as you may think! I don't think it takes much 'color' to turn it seemingly opaque.Look at a nasty muddy river or pond.... and dip some of that into a small clear glass... hold it up to the light and voila' (ok, it wont be Perrier bottled quality)I know when I am a little late changing oil on some of my tractors, that it will be nasty looking milliseconds after firing up. But when you take that sample and smear it out thin on something white... (not momma's bath towel) lol, it's not as bad as we think! the familiar greenish yellow comes through.

..........then there is the unlikely possibility of the cam being off a tooth........which would put everything 'off the reservation'.... Or an improperly indexed cam... I suppose a cam 'off' one tooth in a turbo'd engine would barely run. never mind.

sometimes I'll post 'devils advocate'. maybe for my own info, maybe to spark a conversation.I see a lot of talk about timing. and justifiably so! I was curious... are all our cummins pumps 'zeroed' perfectly? can there be differences? (either from factory, a recent rebuild shop...)My Perkins 540's are 'tuned' using the spill method of setting the timing. It's a simple 'dumb as a rock' process that eliminates timing problems due to wear and tear, or manufacturing/assembly goofs. This includes everything from driver cam in IP all the way back to the engine crankshaft. Those 540's have a nightmare of gears in the timing case!!! Spill timing is the point in the cycle where IP sends all fuel to injector. No bypass in the ip's head. When #1 piston is 5/8ths inch btdc, IP's #1 fuel return/bypass should be ' just closed'. All fuel from that point foward is then 'injected'. measuring pistion distance btdc even eliminates 'bad' or slipped marks on a crank balancer.Effectively, the ' start" of the injection event is 18* using this method. I'm sure a few more degrees are needed to actually 'pop' the injector! So, I was just curious if we need to put ALL faith on a little 'mark'... to definitely set our injection? I agree on ISX's post; The symtoms of a poorly tuned are pretty easy to analyze.... and from that an adjustment one way or the other.In other words, if its 'set' at cummins recommeded, but its hard starting, smoking, heating, etc... MUST we assume automatically that it's something else??

I've had many many sets of tractor injectors sonic cleaned over the years.. the pump shop does it, and I have them set the pop @ same time. For the few extra bucks, why not? I ususally have the pump in too for either a rebuild or testing.Anyone want to take a stab at what process is used to put those tiny holes in the tips?? That has to be some impressive machine!

good point. If a trash can can bounce those inpulses back, could a truck do the same? maybe there is a ground system that goes along with the trash can?? hmmmm, going back to the 1800's?? might be just what this Country needs! ( a 're-start' button?) In a simple circuit, what exactly is destroyed when hit? do wires melt off? windings in motors evaporate? - - - Updated - - - And then drive like hell!! (to shake off the 'pushers' that held on!!).... unless momma is pushing! Que music: Flight of Valkyrie... as a roaming band of 12v's travel the land.....

exactly! (get her rolling first!) since this will be a work truck first... the original size should be ample.I was just curious (if and when the oem does croak) if these 'upgraded' turbos are worth the cash.Geez, how do you 'match' a turbo... the choices go on and on... wheel size, housing size.. number of blades.. If I ever need one, I want to make dang sure it's the right one the FIRST time. 1600-2000 bucks is a lot for me to experiment with! Head is still spinning from tonights episode of SOA....

I'll probably run the oem turbo on my '98 for now. Along with ISX'S pump mods. Should be in the 350 hp range. Main thing for now is to use what ever is still serviceable, get it running.But, somehow lastnight, got pulled into a advertisement for Phat shaft's products. They have many levels of turbo for the 12v... supporting 350 hp and up to 2000. The turbo they recommend for 'near exact' replacement, "perfect for towing" except it needs the HX40 downpipe, is said to be perfect for towing, DECREASES EGT... but will have a slight lag. (not a problem here) 62/70 14 cm housing.Next one 'up' is supposed to spool faster, will have a higher egt, (maybe not the best for heavy haulers). 12 cm housing.both are wastegated for 40 psi... I am curious if with the mods I'll be running will there be any noticable effect of running this?1600 for a turbo, plus the downpipe... I'm wondering if there is any 'bang' for the buck?I'll run the oem turbo, (If it's ok!) I still need to hear it run first!since this is my first stab at modifying a diesel, Just was curious on what various 'upgrades' will do or not do~

oh hell, I'll jump in too!Got Wood?

whats your impression after a few months use? Any noticeable gain in mpg? The way the truck handles... etc? any problems getting the hubs locked or unlocked?

the river is right beside the road... below your house? I just NOW saw the guard rail!! first time I looked, I figured the silvery grey was all water!! Ahem.. not too many rivers with guard rails down the center are there?? once again... bob typed before engaging brain!