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So I went to do a brake job on a Honda CR-V with over 227,000 miles on it. And the customer had a brake noise coming from the front end. The issue I found was that the drivers side caliper had a frozen glide bolt. And on top of that the shim was slid all of tthe way down on one side. I've never seen this in 15 years doing brake jobs, and I'm almost sure it was done on purpose. So now the car makes a clunking nose because the pads are now lose inside the brackets, but I found that these calipers are original to the car. I figured you guys would find this interesting. I put the brake system back together and I told them that they should really consider replacing the calipers/rotors/pads/and soft lines as I question their integrity. I priced this all out on RockAuto with coated rotors for less then $300 after cores were returned. The customer is more concerned about the current clunking noise created, even thought I told them that they are safe ... they think that something will break because the pads are now loose in the brackets. But the core concern here is the brake calipers failing due to age. Anyways this one is the most miles I've seen on a OEM caliper in my life! I would also note that is just a little of the rust inside the cup, as more of it was falling out as i pulled the caliper up off the pad. Before I decided to take this photo, I knocked allot of it out. The rust was trapped behind the brake shoes. It was quite interesting in over 14 years of doing brake jobs I've never seen a piston so degraded with rust. But that's Jersey for you. What do you guys think?

thank you for looking, this is my first post after joining this forum. I have owned this CTD for a few months after purchasing it from a private seller and is my first diesel. my problems currently have started with loaning the truck to my younger brother to take to school. He left the lights on all day and came back to a dead truck. I believe while having jumper cables hooked up he was able to crank it over but had no start. it is cold but i filled with winter blend the night before, no gauges installed yet but i have a FASS titanium. my brother determined the alternator was bad (not sure how), it was bench tested as 'good' from O' Rileys although they do not test for AC interference. the most intriguing information i can relay is that my scan gauge2 volt reading shows 11.8 when the dash meter shows nothing as the truck is running. the SC2 readout does not fluctuate. other pertinent information is that i recently had my auto trans swapped and batteries tested, i got the truck back with codes 113, 380, 382. the relays may be stuck, the 140 amp alt. fuse may be blown. it is frustrating as i am not able to get to the truck to do any diagnostics of my own like take grid heaters out of the loop or run a multimeter around it. the truck is a 2002 24v. where does the SC2 get its information from? any suggestions on what to try would be much appreciated.