Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'winter'.
Found 12 results
-
I finally got my first snow here in Idaho... Its been dry all this time. Even the ski resorts are hurting with only 25" at the summit 7K feet... -
I dont mean to high jack but am I understanding it right when you say dont let it idle long? You say go ahead and start lightly driving to keep build up from forming? And is this build up in the form of fuel in crank case?
-
I plugged in the truck yesterday for the first time. water temperature was at 68 degrees. Does this sound about right for a truck that's been plugged in for a few hours? --- Update to the previous post... Sorry, 48 degrees. Not 68.
-
I had some errands to run today and drove the truck. As normal the temperature came up and held steady at 190*. I stopped at the local station to top off the fuel and left the truck running.It was in the low teens here in Michigan today. I know it's colder in other states but.............By the time I had topped off and went in to pay the temperature had dropped to about 160*Why..........
-
Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated. Thanks. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.
-
i just went out and fired up "Blue" (my truck) its about 8deg out and its gunna take a while to get her warmed up, so i was thinking, rather than a mechanical high idle mod, what if i put the engine under load? would there be a problem with simply applying the parking brake and dropping it into drive? (aside from having the vehicle running and in gear without anyone in it...... but i would be in it so that is a non issue, the only way i would consider leaving it unattended would be if there was a safer system or if i could devise a safer system other than the parking brake) seems to me it would warm up a lot quicker if it were under load and i think that would also solve the problem of exhaust valve "gunk" build up that occurs when a diesel is left to idle for extended periods. anyone have any thoughts on the idea? i decided i needed to edit the original post as i was not conveying my entire thought process, what i added is in bold and italicized . -
Well gang... I've been playing with theories and ideas for long enough now its time to put them into a design and see if it actually works. We all know the 24V's seem to take a good tumble in MPG's as the winter sets in well ISX proved that with the 12V engines with static timing that MPG's don't change. Well if you look at it the only thing that could be tossing this out the window is the IAT sensor on the 24V is changing the VP44 performance. Most know that colder air produces better HP/TQ because colder air is denser and requires more fuel to keep balanced. Well if you reverse this and warm the air (in theory) the VP44 should retune and burn according to the manifold temp. So what I've done tonight is fished through my resistor pile and found 3 I'm going to use for test candidates. Orange - White - Red - Gold = 3.9K Ohm = 116*F IATRed - Violet - Red - Gold = 2.7K ohm = 132*F IATRed - Black - Red - Gold = 2.0K ohm = 148*F IAT So now tomorrow I'm going to pull 3 test runs on the same piece of highway... Seeing if the highier the IAT temp increases the MPG or not... I'll can give you something to think about... Grid heaters are NOT controlled directly by the IAT... With the 2.7K Ohm resistor in place before even starting the grid heater still where hitting as normal. So there is more to the grid heater that the IAT temps... ... On the cutting edge again...
-
Since it was 10F this morning and going to be the same or colder tomorrow morning I figured I will get some statistics on how well a winter front works. I want to get mileage and time as to how long it takes to hit 190F. I will do a constant 55mph for these tests and be on the road within a minute of starting. Today was without a winter front going straight into 20-30mph headwinds at 10F. Although synthetic oil seemed to not do anything at 20+F, you will notice that it cranks slower now that the conventional oil I am running starts to get really thick, you can even see how long it takes for it to get oil pressure. So synthetic does have it's place in the colder temps. My EGT's were around 680F at 55mph when the engine was still under 130F, this proves how thick oil and cold surfaces make an engine have to really work. On the return trip with the engine at 190 and still at 55mph, the EGT was around 400F. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvVo4QMXX4Y
-
I read that using the block heater costs about $1.50 a day.I plug mine in all winter here and never notice any change on my bill. Guess that's cuz we have cheap rates, and man I am thankfull for that
-
Does two cycle fuel stop gelling in the winter?It would seem logical that someone would have taken some of the fuel mixed with two cycle oil, and put a sample in the freezer and looked at it as it got cold to see if it would gel!I haven't seen any posts where someone has tried it.
-
I just purchased the 2010 with the 6.7 engine. The block heater wasn't listed on the window sticker, but in my internet research I find some references to Dodge actually installing the heater but not including the connecting cord. Evidently the cord costs $40-50. Can any of you confirm this to be true? Thanks in advance...
-
I have a vintage 2001 24 valve 3500 ram with a 5 speed manual trans. When the temps outside get below 40*F the truck is hard to start. The colder it is the worse it gets. However, if the truck has been plugged in over night, it will start fine. The other evening the truck was cold (about 45*F) and had not been plugged in, so I used my wifes hair dryer in the air box to supply hot air (it worked previously), it tried to, but no start and the batteries ran down trying. So I tried to pull start it. As soon as I let off the clutch in 3rd gear it started! I have tried new batteries and my fuel pressure is 15 psi at idle and 10-13 psi at WOT with a FASS DDRP lift pump. I have tested the fuel and air heaters and they check out fine. I had the codes scanned at Autozone and nothing showed up. I have checked for fuel leaks and cannot find any. The battery voltage will drop from 12.67 to 10.56 while cranking warm or cold. The wierd thing is this only happens when its cold. After the truck starts it runs great and will start fine until the engine gets cold again. It can sit for days in warm weather and will start fine. I would keep it plugged in, but that is not feasible in most places I am parked. Does anyone have any suggestions?
