TC lockup issues, (I know another one) HAHA

[cbrew]

Update

 

well since the time of the start of this thread, the issue returned. after doing more research. I have concluded that my batteries after 13 years are due for a replacing.

 

but with as many times as i had to clean the posts, the lead clamps have seen better days.

so far  i have not found any off the self replacements for the cable. i keep getting (they will need to be custom made)

 

I have found these, anyone using them ?

at Genos

my thought with using these is to cut the old end off, strip the wire back, tin it and this install and seal with shrink wrap

 

 

i did some more trouble shooting and completely ruled out the alternator.

there is only a 20mv difference at the battery's with and with out the alternator. the TC issue was present with and without the alternator in the system

I cut the alternator by cutting the sample power and removing the 140amp fuse.

 

this is what the primary ground clamped looked like after a few weeks. the issue went away with a complete cleaning and apps resetting.

 

i also uploaded a picture of the tag on my batteries, if i am reading that right. they date back to 03/03/02

 

so new batteries are in order cause of the leaking and i want to address the clamp issue at the same time. so where is everyone buying new cables? or are they just replacing the clamps?

 

Thanks again

Edited August 11, 2015 by cbrew

[Mopar1973Man]

Holy cow I replaced mine after 10 years. You done very well with batteries. Your cables are shot and should be replaced. When you do replace both the batteries and cables use a little bit of engine oil on the terminals and you'll never have to clean your cables ever again.

[dripley]

Holy cow I replaced mine after 10 years. You done very well with batteries. Your cables are shot and should be replaced. When you do replace both the batteries and cables use a little bit of engine oil on the terminals and you'll never have to clean your cables ever again.

 How can you tell by those pictures the cables are shot? I can see the end is shot but cant see the cables themselves.

 

The oil trick works better than anything I have tried in the past.

Edited August 19, 2015 by dripley

[cbrew]

 How can you tell by those pictures the cables are shot? I can see the end is shot but cant see the cables themselves.

 

The oil trick works better than anything I have tried in the past.

in my picture, my cable ends are shot, too many times removing and cleaning them, the lead is breaking down.

I am going to order the replacement ends that Genos sells, just going to cut the old ends off, clean and tin the cables an install.

 

I believe i have put my finger in why our control mods have a fit with any noise in the system other they a bad design from the get go.

 

in some cases the issue is caused by a bad diode bridge in the alternator. but in my case. that was not true, my condition existed with or without the alternator powered up and even when it was not hooked up to the system. after thinking about this, it dawned on me, what i was battling was a ground loop. when the connections was bad on one of the batteries, the ground reference was no longer on the same plane across the system. this causes all kinds of issues with noise, any one ever fight an alternator whine the stereo when an external amp was installed? it is normally caused bad a bad ground between the headunit and the down stream components. this is explains why the problem goes away with a good cleaning of the clamps.

I am thinking of running a heavy ground cable across the radiator to cross connect the batteries just like the hot wire. this will guarantee the ground reference is at least on the same level at all the grounding points that connect directory to the secondary battery. even it the connection goes bad (lose or corrosion).

 

I hope to be replacing the batteries this weekend. (had to wait for my non mortgage paycheck).

 

i just wanted to share what i have found cause i did not see it covered else where.

have a great day!