Having trouble getting my Scanguage calibrated

[Mopar1973Man]

You fine on the clutch. I'm running just behind you slightly at +50HP injectors and wire tapped on the Edge Comp. I tow heavy and never had a problem with my clutch which happens to be a Southbend Con OFE. It's never slipped.

This all depends on your tire size. Oversize tires will put more stress on the clutch than stoc k size will. I'm designed to break the tires loose when I start reaching the threshold of the clutch so no damage occurs.

Edited March 22, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[leathermaneod]

What is your clutch rated for? I'm not familiar with the feramic aspect although I though they were rated higher. I believe your is organic/feramic? Mine is only organic so that's why Im concerned. What about stress on the drivetrain in general? Do you think the comp is much harder on everything being that it adds that much hp and tq? Do you have the bigger or stock input shaft? My tires are only slightly bigger than stock at 285/75 where I believe stock is 265/76 or 245/75 depending on which wheels your truck came with. 

Also, what do you think my total numbers would be with injectors and comp?

Edited March 22, 2016 by leathermaneod

[Mopar1973Man]

Quote

the larger clutch and is rated to handle up to 400 horsepower & 800 ft. lbs. of torque.

Here is calculated number from my last trip. The red markers show my high points. Correction this is empty running... Green bands is the stock HP / TQ area beyond that is extra. Again this is calculated at the flywheel.

I found one during towing my RV.

Edited March 22, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[leathermaneod]

Ok. I would imagine numbers would be slightly higher under a large load though right? Looks like you hit about 320 hp and 700tq?

Sounds like we are about the same on clutch then...

im just leary of adding soooo much power haha. I don't wanna not have it and later wish I had, but I am scared of breaking things or reducing reliability or longevity.

[Mopar1973Man]

I added one with the RV towing back from Dynamics place. I was hunting for that one...

[leathermaneod]

Added one what? 

[leathermaneod]

Also is there any way to get a more accurate estimate of tq and hp than just adding up what things are rated for?

[Me78569]

A dyno.  

[leathermaneod]

Well yes I know that. I'm just trying to get a ball park estimate that makes me feel safe running the comp because on paper my truck could potentially make so much. 

[Me78569]

Just add the numbers and and some safety room.

[leathermaneod]

That's the thing, adding up the numbers takes me over the rating on the clutch. That's why I was asking for opinions on that and how hard the comp will be on my truck in general. I'm kinda leaning toward just sticking with the EZ now because I don't wanna overtax the drive train. I don't need all that power. The adjustability would be nice but I don't really need it...

[Me78569]

Better safe than sorry

[leathermaneod]

That's kinda the way I'm leaning now. Just hate to not have that adjustability. May have to call edge back and see how adjustable the low end fueling is without tapping the pump. Then decide which to go with. My dilemma is, with the EZ I tried I missed a little on the low end coming from the smarty. I figured the comp would probably allow me to make up for that. But then I realized the huge power gains with the comp...mike, do you have any significant drivetrain upgrades other than clutch?

What is a reasonable torque number to expect from my 75hp injectors?

[Mopar1973Man]

15 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

But then I realized the huge power gains with the comp...mike, do you have any significant drivetrain upgrades other than clutch?

Southbend Con OFE Clutch and Tire Size Reduction (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16). That's it!

The thing is yes you can still tap the wire but you can either turn down the Comp main level or sublevel or both. What kills the clutch is excessive power in RPM band. Best way to learn what happening is grab a bicycle preferably a 10 speed to 20 speed. Now if you jump into too high of a gear will climbing a grade its possible to break the chain or bend the crank depending on leg strength. Yes on my bicycle the cranks are slightly bent. So the same applies here if you modify the fueling so the power comes on later then typically the clutch holds up better. At the same time this why I went down a tire size it adds in acceleration but also allow for excessive power to break the tires loose instead of clutch or input shaft. I'm going to cross 260k mile on the diesel and still to this day never had a 5th ger nut issue!

 

[Me78569]

i've never had 5th gear nut issues either   

 

how you drive plays a huge role in how well driveline parts hold up

[leathermaneod]

So what I'm hearing is I shouldn't be after the low end fueling that the smarty had so much because that is what is harder on things...

also just checking because I'm not supper good with metric tire sizes, you actually went to a bigger diameter but almost 1-1/4 inches narrower tire? That decrease in surface area is what saves you? 

 

I believe my truck has now had fifth gear nut issues twice. This time it should be fixed for good though since it has not only the updated but from dodge, but the retainer from active trans. Fingers crossed and trying to drive it very carefully anyway.

one more question and I know it's a personal preference/opinion thing but I respect your opinions so here goes, would either of you be afraid to run the comp on 5x5 on my truck with the mods I have and knowing that on paper the numbers are too high for the clutch?

[Mopar1973Man]

29 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

how you drive plays a huge role in how well driveline parts hold up

Post your video of smacking the tree and then peeling out up the mountain road in the snow...

[leathermaneod]

Lol I'd like to see this 

[Me78569]

Sometimes the only answer is MOOOREE POWERRR!!!!

 

 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Damn, I just found it too...