So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering...

 

Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above the lowest marker on the battery gauge

Intake heater no working properly? I have noticed more white smoke then usual on cold start ups

Fuel leak? Haven't seen any spots in the driveway, and the system definitely primes once the key gets to 'ON' typically see 5-10psi needle jump

 

So what do ya guys got?!

 

 

6 hours ago, notlimah said:

So I talked to the dealership today after I picked up my truck. I got the banjo bolt fittings, 4 bucks each! He said that the fittings for the 'T' came in a pack of 3, but had to be sold individually at 15 bucks a piece!!  I can't believe these things are that expensive! Hopefully the banjo bolt fittings are the problem.

Those prices are crazy. You should look into this site https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

 

you can create an account and have a few ESN's for free. You can look stuff up and see exploded views. It's usually pretty easy to find stuff and they are pretty helpful if you call. Prices are usually good and shipping is very quick!

@dripley I only bought the banjo bolt seals

 

@leathermaneod that looks like a pretty good resource, I'll check it out.

 

I ended up getting the new banjo bolt seals installed tonight. Took maybe 20 minutes, but it is a pita! If you don't have a ratcheting 17mm wrench I'd recommend it before doing this. I don't have one but will be getting a set soon due to things like this! Anyways, for some pics.

 

 

What the banjo will look like in-bolted. I had to get a small flat head screw driver to scrape off the old deal from the head.

 

 

Banjo removed with old and new seals.

 

 

What the banjo looks like.

 

 

Ready to be re-installed with seals on both sides of the banjo.

 

 

And installed again and tightend pretty tight. 

 

I'm sure that should seal now. I can't be the old washers weren't visibly leaking. A ratcheting 17mm would be handy. I just used a stubby 17mm and it worked a little easier than a longer one. 

Yea I don't have any stubbys either or I would've gone that route as well. I'm hoping that the old seals were the cause of me loosing prime parked uphill. Otherwise I'll be replacing the grommets at the T and probably the return line banjo at the VP.

IIRC there was a discussion sometime in the past on this site, about the seals for that "T" and it was suggested that a person could just slice some washers off of the end of a hose of the proper size, due to the high cost of the factory washer. Don't recall if anyone actually tried it. 

Edited May 7, 20168 yr by Royal Squire

Hmm I'll have to look for that thread. Thanks!

I have not tried it but it sure seems that would work just as good. It just compresses to both surfaces. It would also need to be diesel compatible.

So I've been digging through some old threads from people with similar issues. Some things I've found and will be doing soon.

 

- Connector tube o-rings

- T fittings

- Check valve at VP

- Injector o-rings

 

I'm doing my best to avoid buying the o-rings for the T fitting since they're 13 bucks EACH (unless someone knows a cheaper alternative?! ), I already have a new check valve so I'll install that when I can. Couple questions. . .

 

Where are the connector tube o-rings? Are they on the outside where you tighten down your fuel lines to your the head? Or are they on the crossover tubes? Either one of those sounds like a fairly easy fix, just not sure which ones they are.

 

I also noticed that a few of my tube braces are missing. Is there any need for concern here? Not sure how they came undone, but I remember finding one when I first bought the truck and didn't think much of it.

The connector tube o rings are the ones on the delivery tubes(connector tubes/crossover tubes) that go inside the head between the fuel line and the injector. 

Alright cool. 

 

Do you have to remove the fuel lines completely? Like from the vp44 and all? Or can they just slide out of the way?

I'm honestly not sure about that one. I'm pretty sure if you removed the line clamps you would be fine, but I also know some say never to take those clamps off so that will be your call. I thought earlier in this thread you said you had already replaced injectors and o rings? 

No I haven't replaced either. This is all new territory for me. I've watched a couple YouTube videos and seen some write ups. Only thing I haven't seen in those is when removing the hoses from the VP (if needed in this case) do you need a crowfoot or will a regular wrench work? 

I've heard of guys doing it with a stubby, but I would recommended at least a crows foot line wrench. Better than that, there is a special socket made by tork tools here http://www.genosgarage.com/product/sch99100/tools. I have one and it's great! Totally worth the price. I think if you are planning to do all your delivery tube o rings and maybe injector o rings, I would totally remove your lines and leave the clamps on and tight. They come out in sets of three. You may have issues getting the lines to stop leaking at the head when you put them back on. If so, you'll likely have to clean the mating surfaces up with a scotch brite pad, then clean them good with brake clean, then blow out with a compressor. You'll probably have to loosen the clamps and take them off at this point, but you may get lucky and not have issues. Lots don't, but some, like me, just have a heck of a time getting them to stop lol.

hope this all helps. let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

 

forgot to mention I would also get one of these http://www.genosgarage.com/product/24vctr010/tools. Then you don't have to worry about ruining delivery tubes trying to pry them out with a screw driver. 

Edited May 9, 20168 yr by leathermaneod

Thanks for those links, I have one of those sockets that's 19mm meant for the fuel lines at the head but I figure I can use those on the fuel lines at the vp as well. I just wasn't sure of the size. I'll get one of those connector tube pullers ordered though! 

 

Right now I'm planning on only replacing the connector tube o-rings. I'd like to avoid pulling injectors right now because if I did I'd have a hard time not putting new injectors in and the budget doesn't allow for that right now lol! 

 

Either way I appreciate the tips because those lines may have to come off regardless so nice to have an idea of what can happen.

No problem! You probably won't have issues with leaks. Most don't. Just figured I'd let you know there is a chance. Just try to get the line perfectly seated in the delivery tube while hand tightening the nut. Then when the nut gets tight, try to wiggle the line and see if it will loosen up and seat better, then tighten the nut more. Hopefully that makes sense. Also, I was just thinking and realized you will need to pull your intake horn and grid heater I believe. 

Another thing to remember is since you plan on doing the injectors later you will have to go thru the same process all over again. You will be more than half way to doing the injectors while having the cross over tube out. If they are not leaking I would wait and do both at the same time. just me of course.

I heartily agree with dripley on this. It's a lot of work just to replace those o rings if you are planning to tear it all apart again to do injectors. Plus if the connector tube o rings don't solve the issue, you'll be left wondering if the injectors or injector o rings could be the issue. Also, if you do have trouble with leaks at the head when you put it back together, you will never wanna take it apart again lol All that said I think I would just wait a little till you can swing some rv275s and then do everything at once. This is all just my opinion of course. I haven't done injectors myself yet, I just had to fix leaks that the local Cummins shop couldn't, and so I'm not in a hurry to tear it apart again, even though I want to switch from my 75hp BD injects to the Bosch rv275s. Those idiots were trying to tell me the head was warped or cracked and they put thread sealant on the lines at the head, smh, what a mess. I showed them once I got it fixed and told them how I did it, and the service manager offered me a job lol

Yea I'm not planning on doing the connector tubes quite yet. I want to try and see if I can't get the O-rings for the T connector first, although I'm still trying to source a cheaper option then what I've seen. If that doesn't fix it in conjunction with new banjo return on the VP then I'll be looking at changing out connector tube O-rings and probably just look at putting new injectors in. I was hoping to wait on injectors because I'm not sure what size I'd want with the upgrades I'm looking to do in the future but I'll cross that bridge when it comes.

 

Why are you looking to 'downgrade' your injector size?

59 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Why are you looking to 'downgrade' your injector size?

 

Basically just because I've heard some not quite great things about BD injectors, and I don't need that much power. Plus I don't ever plan to go with a bigger turbo, and with those and the comp I'm on the verge. I think I'd just be better off al around with Bosch and a little less power. Maybe better fuel economy, and less hard on things since I don't need that much power ya know?

Ah ok, well that makes sense. I'm looking to eventually add a bigger turbo/inj/tuner and all that so that's why I wanting to hold off on injectors until I decided what exact power upgrades I wanted to go with so I could match everything up right ya know?