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Power Steering Fluid Leak


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  • Staff

If the vehicle is used in a reasonable manner IE: daily driver or towing,  I'd use the 8.8.  If it is subjected to heavy duty use IE: mostly off road driving or snow plowing, I'd use the 10.9.  If you just want the added insurance go with the 10.9.    

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When you set the cruise on fly by wire the pedal want stay down because it is not connected to a solenoid pulling on the throttle. Another way is if you can monitor you apps sensor it will show 0%  while cruising with it set. 

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Hey guys, 

What a day! Finally got all power steering components back together today after a giant PITA! Everything was going well until I tried to put the pitman arm shaft nut back on. I started threading the nut on (by hand and then a rachet) to try push the pitman arm on without the lock washer by accident, caught myself and tried to take the nut back off and it got super tight and didnt wanna move. Got the impact and spun it off and the threads on the shaft and in the nut were destroyed. :mad: I don't know what happened, it definitely was not cross threaded. Anyway then I called everyone I could think of just looking for a stock nut(because my special one for the steering brace was now ruined). Finally found one at a dodge dealer an hour away that had one so went on a road trip to go get it. Btw my local dodge dealer told me they couldn't get it till Wednesday!! Then had to go and swap out the steering box for another at autozone. Got back and everything back together ok just without my steering brace, no big deal. Then started bleeding the air, lock to lock with truck off. Tons of bubbles. Remember the ENTIRE system was empty at this point. Once it stopped bubbling we turned the truck on and did more of the same plus braking and added some more fluid as it went down. Once it seemed good we went for a drive. Good news, I don't even notice a difference without that steering brace, bad new the steering and brakes were horrible. Radom loss of power steering at idle rpms, little boost in the brakes until the pedal hit a certain point then it would brake all at once. Weird feeling in the pedal, slight sticking and sometimes slow to return, steering wheel moving a little on its own when brake pedal pushed. I'm hoping its all just air working its way out or something, but it really has me worried that the valve in this pump is hanging up again like the last one. I drove it around for a little while and did lots of braking and turning in an empty parking lot to try and work it out. Finally started to get a little better I think. We'll see more tomorrow and this week. Its just really odd how it can be acting up at low rpms, blip the throttle and its good, and sometimes stays good even when rpms come back down, sometimes it doesnt. On the way home it finally seemed better but well see tomorrow. Going to hopefully get the new steering linkage on tomorrow. It acts very similar to how it did before when the valve was stuck in there. Only its doing this right from the get go and its not consistent like that was.

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Typically. I will get a system started and drive for short amount of time like 1/4 mile or less. Then return home and park it. Let it stand then top off with fluid after it stood for good length of time. This allow the foaming to quit. If the fluid is foamy don't drive it for long periods it can cause damage.

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Yikes that might not good.....we drove between 10 and 20 miles last night i think....when we got back the fluid wasn't really foamy though i dont think....it might have had little bubbles in the fluid because it went from clear to cloudyish, but it wasn't like foam sitting on top of the fluid at all. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything already....anyway its been parked overnight now so I'll check the fluid this morning before driving it again. Waiting on rain to stomp before getting back go work....

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That why the performance was bad. Any air is compressible so every time you requested power steering or brakes the air compressed more than work provided by the hydraulics. So start this process over again check the fluid make sure its full before starting. Run it short time and check for foamy fluid if so shut down and wait 15-30 minutes top off and start again till it stops foaming.

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Most likely not. It sure harsh on any kind of fluid system to bounce between fluid to air. It it weird way creates a hammering force and jarring. Kind of similar to water hammer but very random. So you can imagine the pressure relief valve opening and closing attempting to keep pressures stable and air compressing.

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