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Steering upgrade


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I still have a hard time relating offset to back spacing and I'm not 100% sure what the offset of these wheels are as its not listed on their website. It does say the offset is  either going to be -6 or 12. I read that wrong earlier. I thought the back spacing was -6, but it's not. 

 

The tires do stick out a good 3-4 inches outside of the wheel well so I imagine the offset/back spacing is enough to fit the kit. 

 

I also talked to a local 4x4 shop that all run 2nd gens as well and they seem to think I'll be fine with the wheels I have. I guess we'll see when I actually put the kit on.

Edited by notlimah
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Ok so was just doing some more research on this. I broke it down by our bolt pattern and it looks like the only two offsets available for this wheel that'll fit on our truck is either an offset of -6 or 12 with backspacing at 4.25in or 5in respectfully. I think either way with at least 4in of backspacing I should be fine.

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On 6/24/2016 at 5:10 PM, notlimah said:

From the looks of them, I'm not sure how they'd be replaced individually as they seem sealed. I doubt replacing the whole tie rod is that expensive. You might be able to grind off the sealed looking end or just whack the threaded end to knock it out of the tie rod, but this is all speculation. 

 

@CTcummins24V What back spacing does your 16's have?

 

4.5" backspacing, 0 offset

 

 

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I was attempting to read through the CF thread I posted earlier and it seems like people have been able to run this setup on OEM wheels, but they had to grind down the thread side of the TRE in order to get them to fit at full lock. Most said they ground it down an 1/8th of an inch or so, so obviously that's not much, but I have no first hand experience in this.

 

I'm just hoping this will fit on my truck without having to do too much modifying.

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I just ordered the kit today and it'll be installed tonight. I have a 2002 RAM 2500 4x4 Diesel with Skyjacker 2" soft ride leveling springs and bilstien shocks.

aftermarket 16" wheels ( not sure on the back spacing) 

has 35" duratracks and driving this truck i'm sure I look like a scene from the Dukes of Hazard where the steering wheel is going back and forth just to keep the vehicle straight! Lol

l new xrf ball joints, new wheel bearings ranch steering stabilizer etc. No play in my TRE's but they are easyvto move by hand.

 I have read a ton of literature on the swap and I was convinced but then I thought I started reading something about people were backing up and snapping tie rod ends off ???  I couldn't pinpoint if this was from a bad tire rod that Mopar how to change up number for or what ???  Anyway I'm going to give it a try and watch it like a hawk and I'll report back with my findings.

 I heard guys saying that they even leave their steering stabilizer off because it actually seems better ????  I will leave it off at first and try it and then I will instal it and give honest feedback .  I am in Alberta Canada right in the Rocky Mountains so I have every type of terrain to try it in as well as smooth hwy's.

 Looking forward to hearing the OP's  findings with this as well. 

 The kit I ordered was part number 52122362AL from Dodge. I think they have Ah Al etc but i have the newest updated part number. Will report back shortly. 

Edited by BIG-BLACK-DODGE
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Looking forward to your findings!

 

I remember reading about the snapping of TREs as well, but from what I understood it was happening because people were installing them and not lining up all the tie rods and tie rod ends so when it got turned full lock one way or another, it would be at a sharp angle with lots of pressure (exactly how it's not supposed to be) and snap off. That's what I gathered from it, but that link I posted earlier in this thread is a beast so I haven't made it all the way through!

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Looking at my stock wheels there is so little clearance for the stock set up that I believe the T steering would be a problem. Zero* offset wheels should off set that problem. Larger diameter wheels would accomplish the same thing.

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