2001 I just got from dealer, auto btw, test drove it drove fine they had a new lift pump installed that day, well I made it home and the next day I took it to work , well it sits at the yard till I get off so I get there and I go to ride a round and take my buddy home, well leaving DAIRY QUEEN, to go to CHEVRON to get some fuel since gauge doesn't work , DEALER sent new one btw will get tomorrow aswell as a TIMBOS tps but I paid next day and kinda got screwed if you order wrong, anyway, going from dq to chevron the truck dies as I am turning to a pump, ok drop in N then stop then P then try to start it fires up, ok well I add 25$ , eventually filling tank up later, but as I leave and I'm going about 3 /4 of a mile away from gas station it does it again, JUST DIES!, well not sure the codes at that time it was throwing , ive done several things, as take back the lift pump just installed and get new one, seeing it wont come on at times but Ive read on why, and when I uninstalled chip It through some VP CODES that mean death but I rehooked and reset and they all went away and it still has the start and sometimes if you do apps reset you get 30 minutes but if truck has been ran you may make to DRIVE out of REVERSE, and JUST DIE!, ok well I said **** it may be TPS Or VP who knows I'm a 12 VALVER, well I tested TPS ITS GETTING .337 at idle into #3 pin,  and it goes up and down smoothly!, well after testing TPS/ APPS  the truck would run good and stuff but then eventually just shutoff, and actually now it sometimes just surges and then lets it idle and it runes fine then will die or surge no idea I try not to drive it! but before it would JUST DIE, and I'm not sure if the ASD Has anything but sometimes if P0122 comes up and I crank 1388 ASD code comes, up! idk PLEASE Help should I just buy a VP I have the TIMBOS coming tomorrow, but as of today I took TPS off , looks kinda new or been tampered it broke loose easily and wasn't very dirty! well now it surges a lot more in 2nd , BUT not original issue, Original issue is the truck just DIED didn't idle , so not TPS ? and Now it just surges sometimes, PLEASE HELP, BTW I also tested a differen plug I believe ground and pin next to it ? well it read 4.670 volts and slowly dropped ? anything there ? just don't know why truck just dies!

Edited September 21, 20168 yr by ItzReckless

I couldn't figure out how to copy the link so I copy and pasted. Maybe this will help.

DTC P1388: AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT

1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, actuate ASD relay. Listen for clicking sound at ASD relay. The ASD relay is located in power distribution center at driver's side front corner of engine compartment. See Fig. 54 . If clicking sound is heard at ASD relay, go to next step. If clicking sound is not heard at ASD relay, go to step 4 .

2. Stop actuation of ASD relay. Inspect wiring harness and connectors between ASD relay and PCM. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. If no problems exist, go to next step. If any problems exist, repair wiring or connectors as necessary. Perform TEST VER-2A .

3. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Wiggle wiring harness and connectors between ASD relay and PCM. If engine does not stall while wiggling wiring harness and connectors, test is complete. If engine stalls while wiggling wiring harness and connectors, repair wiring or connectors as necessary that cause engine to stall. Perform TEST VER-2A .

4. Turn ignition off. Remove ASD relay from power distribution center. Note cavities in power distribution center for ASD relay. See Fig. 54 . Turn ignition on with engine off. Using voltmeter, check voltage at cavity No. 86 (Light Green/Black wire) in power distribution center for ASD relay. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open between ignition switch, fuse No. 9 (10-amp) and Light Green/Black wire between fuse No. 9 and cavity No. 86 in power distribution center for ASD relay. Fuse No. 9 is located in junction block on end of driver's side of instrument panel, near door opening. Perform TEST VER-2A .

5. Note which terminals on ASD relay correspond with cavities in power distribution center. See Fig. 54 . Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals on ASD relay that correspond with cavities No. 85 and 86 in power distribution center. If resistance is less than 100 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 100 ohms or more, replace ASD relay. Perform TEST VER-2A .

6. Ensure ignition is off and ASD relay is still removed from power distribution center. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between cavity No. 85 (Dark Blue/Yellow wire) in power distribution center for ASD relay and terminal No. 3 (Dark Blue/Yellow wire) on PCMconnector C3. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Dark Blue/Yellow wire between PCM and cavity No. 85 in power distribution center for ASDrelay. Perform TEST VER-2A .

7. Ensure ASD relay is still removed from power distribution center and PCM connectors are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Dark Blue/Yellow wire) on PCM connector C3. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-2A . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Dark Blue/Yellow wire between PCM and cavity No. 85 in power distribution center for ASD relay. Perform TEST VER-2A .

Edited September 22, 20168 yr by 903Dodge

well man it may be wiring , but get this why would TPS code come on, and I guess I'm going to dig into PCM

 

Any programmer on the truck?

Was , I removed it , unplugged reset , ran fine  the sputtered in some gears now it won't start again , ?

First off, paragraphs.  The wall of text is difficult to read.  

 

Second.  Have you pulled codes with a code reader or just on the dash odometer?  

Honestly idk it goes In sequence tho truck started fine this mor ming, I'm fixing to see if it will make it to the yard 

Made it,  unplugged asd, shut a slight motor tone change,  well took out FUEL SYSTEM RELAY it died isn't it suppose to run in a secondary pump without electric or? I got robbed by dealer just want a running cummins , never again I'll just stick to 12 valve 

 

Fuel pump relay is the power supply to the VP44. When you pulled that relay it killed the VP44 power. 

 

Edited September 22, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

But I read mopar man that vp has a pump that allows to run without power ??, itso weird I just Wana cry lmao but no this morning it was running fine and only threw the asd code when I pulled it , symptoms are hit or miss man 

There is no pump within the VP44 that will run without power.  With no power going to the IP the truck will not run.

35 minutes ago, ItzReckless said:

But I read mopar man that vp has a pump that allows to run without power ??, itso weird I just Wana cry lmao but no this morning it was running fine and only threw the asd code when I pulled it , symptoms are hit or miss man 

 

First off there is a lift pump power directly by the ECM there is no fuse nor is there a relay for the lift pump. Typically the lift pump is on the side of the block or in the fuel tank for stock configuration. So there is no way to shut down that pump unless the ECM is damaged or the lift pump itself is damaged. 

 

As for the fuel pump relay that is the power relay to put power to the PSG on top of the VP44 injection pump. When you pull that relay that power is cut to the VP44 so that computer drops and the engine stops running period. Typically that will trip a P1689 code because of the relay being missing. 

 

So at this point you need to deal with the problem with the ASD relay. Go over the troubleshooting and check this out.

Alright well ive had alternator testing it , it will start and run fine then just die , so my question is what's turning it off if the p0122 code wouldn't,  the 1388 code ? 

Sorry for two threads the but I realized I wasn't in power train or what not,  cheers , and the truck ran 240 miles from denton,  then the next day all this happened pullimg into a gas station , but ithe fired up and then I was able to drive then it died,  I bought a 20$ relay but why if it keeps burning them for all I know my relays could all be toast , wth guys, someone give me a 12 valve ?

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

First off there is a lift pump power directly by the ECM there is no fuse nor is there a relay for the lift pump. Typically the lift pump is on the side of the block or in the fuel tank for stock configuration. So there is no way to shut down that pump unless the ECM is damaged or the lift pump itself is damaged. 

 

As for the fuel pump relay that is the power relay to put power to the PSG on top of the VP44 injection pump. When you pull that relay that power is cut to the VP44 so that computer drops and the engine stops running period. Typically that will trip a P1689 code because of the relay being missing. 

 

So at this point you need to deal with the problem with the ASD relay. Go over the troubleshooting and check this out.

The ECM is probably hot from cranking and asd? And making fuel lift pump not come on, like switching fuses works at lower Temps but running temp it all just acts funky,  the pump will eventually re kick on but don't always solve the staring issue , sometimes being in natural will work or if I am broke down and I get nudged , idk guys I've checked grounds,  I really just wasted money on a tps because mine just needed reset,  sorry I'm so confusing but day 5 of buy a 10200 truck , that blows 

Edited September 22, 20168 yr by ItzReckless

40 minutes ago, ItzReckless said:

The ECM is probably hot from cranking and asd?

 

No. ECM doesn't generate heat unless you have a bad alternator with excessive AC noise issue other than that it will live a very happy life hanging off the block with 190*F coolant jacket behind it. 

 

42 minutes ago, ItzReckless said:

And making fuel lift pump not come on, like switching fuses works at lower Temps but running temp it all just acts funky,  the pump will eventually re kick on but don't always solve the staring issue , sometimes being in natural will work or if I am broke down and I get nudged , idk guys I've checked grounds,

 

 

I have to ask does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly with the key or does it delay? This is a since of Alternator AC noise damage whewre its damaged the memory on the ECM. The very first instruction on the ECm is to check the IAT temp and turn on the WAIT TO START light for either a bulb check (if warm) or actually run the grid heaters (cold). Beyond that if the WAIT TO START is not coming on instantly the ECM is brain dead till the software boots up in the processor. Other than that it will not supply power to the lift pump nor the VP44 so it will just crank and do nothing. 

 

This still does not explain your error codes but it might explain the lift pump issues.

 

Yeah I'm studying the ECM and it guts in my spare time researching all the different chips and processors.

 

So a ECM on the vp ? that blows,  I'm fixing to be off work I'll see how it drives,  when It dies if the wait to start  doesn't come on its the ECM,

I just want it to be reliable 

Maybe you have several problems and not just one.  Before I put all my eggs in one basket I would look at simple stuff life fuel filter condition, FP, AC Noise, grounds.  You can also unplug the VP44 and shoot for power.  Pin 7 on the plug side is your power to the VP44, tap on your relays and molest your harnesses to see if the voltage drops off or fluctuates.  Before I spent that much money I would exhaust all other options and go through things with a fine tooth comb, because who's to say that you don't put in a new VP44 and there is a deeper problem that burns that up as well.

20 minutes ago, Hawkez said:

Maybe you have several problems and not just one.  Before I put all my eggs in one basket I would look at simple stuff life fuel filter condition, FP, AC Noise, grounds.  You can also unplug the VP44 and shoot for power.  Pin 7 on the plug side is your power to the VP44, tap on your relays and molest your harnesses to see if the voltage drops off or fluctuates.  Before I spent that much money I would exhaust all other options and go through things with a fine tooth comb, because who's to say that you don't put in a new VP44 and there is a deeper problem that burns that up as well.

Just got off work and truck will start and drive has p1388 code still,  I had alternator checked at origination of problems,  what exactly is ac noise man , btwho wait to start doesn't come on , but I have seen it on at timesome I'm off work so a phone call is ok from anyone with time 

Who checked the alternator? Did they check for AC voltage?  What were the results?

Oriellys checked from battery's I have a volt meter , but it's hard chase a un occurring issue until it dies  which I'm sure it will onot way home 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No. ECM doesn't generate heat unless you have a bad alternator with excessive AC noise issue other than that it will live a very happy life hanging off the block with 190*F coolant jacket behind it. 

 

 

I have to ask does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly with the key or does it delay? This is a since of Alternator AC noise damage whewre its damaged the memory on the ECM. The very first instruction on the ECm is to check the IAT temp and turn on the WAIT TO START light for either a bulb check (if warm) or actually run the grid heaters (cold). Beyond that if the WAIT TO START is not coming on instantly the ECM is brain dead till the software boots up in the processor. Other than that it will not supply power to the lift pump nor the VP44 so it will just crank and do nothing. 

 

This still does not explain your error codes but it might explain the lift pump issues.

 

Yeah I'm studying the ECM and it guts in my spare time researching all the different chips and processors.

 

Wait to start just popped up consecutively and check engine light is gone 

Trucks running it's usually when CE LIGHT GOES OFF  truck dies 

I doubt OReilly's checked for AC noise.  This is where you check to see how much AC voltage your alternator may be putting out. With you DVM you can measure that, your reading will be anywhere from .001 to .1 volts AC.  Depending on your reading, this will tell you if your alternator is bad.  It may very well pass oreilly's test, but it can still be causing issues. 

Update update truck got to running temp it reverse 30 feet put in drive and died 

Put in park started now it's in driveway idling it drovery forward 

INSTALLED TIMBOS TPS , RUNS GREAT WELL, GOT TO RUNNING TEMP,  A LITTLE OVER 190 ON GAUGE AND DIED WELL NOT VP THAT'S GOOD RIGHT  ,   well what a causing my lift pump to shut off ? Should I go exhange lift pumps again and yet once more try it ? 

Fuel pumps on but still not starting hmm