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Re-mounting a Frantz filter

Mopar1973Man
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Well Gang...

I finally got tired of the huge sloppy mess I would make while changing my Frantz Filter. It seems like every time I would lift the can off the TP roll would stick to the stem and the oil would drain everywhere down the fender. So I started looking at what I could do to change it and make it less messy... So here is mt new mounting...

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Here is a close up of my new battery mounting bracket...

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The other problem was even if I could get the filter off without the mess the stem tube would be still full of oil and this oil would be enough to darken the new oil in seconds. It would look like I never changed the oil... :wow But now with it up-side-down it will drain out completely into the lid of the filter now!

Now when I change my oil next maybe I won't make a huge mess... :rolleyes

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Thats pretty cool how you hung that from the battery... Was it hard??? Did you have to make the bracket or do they make them to do that??? :confused: It is definately a better spot for it... Lots more room from where you last had it. :thumbsup

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Thats pretty cool how you hung that from the battery... Was it hard???

Thank you... It wasn't really all that hard but there is a story behind it...

Did you have to make the bracket or do they make them to do that???

No... I have to produce the steel bracket on the battery to mount the Frantz mounting to...

It is definately a better spot for it... Lots more room from where you last had it.

The story behind it is... If you look closely at picture #2 you'll see I had to grind off my first attempt at mounting the Frantz filter. I forgot to remember the BHAF and intake tube. All I used was 2 angle brackets and welded them on to the Frantz mounting base. So on the second try. I used a piece of flat strap about 1 1/2" wide. And basically bent the two ends in a table vise using a hammer. Then I drilled two holes on each end. Had to trim the upper tab a bit with a hack saw. But after about 30 minutes of work I got me a nice bracket. This time I moved the Frantz base plate all the way foreward. Using the two bolt holes I bolted it to my new bracket... Which you can see in the last pic...
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dorkweed

dorkweed

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Mike that's what nice about having the exit/return line routed to the oil pan. All/99% of the oil drains down to the pan in under 5 minutes after shutting the engine down. About all I get are a few drops off the used TP when I pull it out of my MotorGuard. I usually wait about 30 minutes however to change the TP to let the oil and MotorGuard unit cool down.

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  • 2 months later...
Guest

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I would like to add a bypass filter, but with the big twins it's going to be a headache, I'll have to figure out where to get my oil from, and I'm not really hot on putting it back through the cap......

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Mopar1973Man

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I would like to add a bypass filter, but with the big twins it's going to be a headache, I'll have to figure out where to get my oil from, and I'm not really hot on putting it back through the cap......

Well on the Frantz Filter setup there is a restriction fitting in the input side of the filter to reduce the flow so it doesn't blow out the can seals. As for return if you can tap the return line of the turbos you would be fine... I'm not very happen with the return in the cap either. If I could change that I would but I'm not going to drill holes in my valve cover. But I know there is a nice plug in the crankcase near the pan I could use...
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dorkweed

dorkweed

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If you've used up the 2 ports on top of the OEM oil filter mount, you can get a "sandwich" adapter which you would mount on the OEM oil mount stub. You then screw an oil filter onto the sandwich adapter. The sandwich adapter should limit the volume of oil to the bypass. If not, use an inline restrictor oriface like mentioned above!! You can route the return line like I did with the STHB ( self tapping hollow bolt ) to the oil pan. Not hard to do at all. Take a sharp punch and pierce the oil pan and drive it in until a 5/16 bolt will fit into the hole. Then thread the STHB into the hole you've made. The STHB comes with a rubber washer to seal it up. I also used some RTV on it also!!! Mines been leak free for almost 2 years now!!

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  • 3 months later...
panheadindy

panheadindy

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As for return if you can tap the return line of the turbos you would be fine... I'm not very happen with the return in the cap either. If I could change that I would but I'm not going to drill holes in my valve cover. But I know there is a nice plug in the crankcase near the pan I could use...

I have the Frantz oil filter but have not installed it yet. I am not keen on drilling a hole in the oil pan and do not really want to use the oil fill cap. Where is the plug you refer too? Would the second port on the oil filter work as a return point? I thought they were both high pressure.
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dorkweed

dorkweed

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Dudes, it's still a whole lot easier to punch and "tap" the oil pan!! Really, it sounds a lot worse/harder/tougher than it is!!! If you buy an Amsoil bypass, you get the STHB in the kit, which tells you that they "kind of like" returning the oil to the pan!!! Just my .02 cents!! B)

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  • 7 months later...
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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What does a Franz Filter unit cost? How much are the replacement filters?

About a $170 if I remember right... And replacement filter are in your bathroom... (Toilet paper!) LOL

http://www.wefilterit.com

2422 12th Avenue Rd. #148

Nampa, ID 83686-6300

1-208-467-3726

Office Hours: Monday-Friday

9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (Mountain Time Zone)

Deborah Walker Harley

President

E-Mail Address

DWalkerHarley@WeFilterIt.com

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dorkweed

dorkweed

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I use Scott 1000 TP. It's the John Wayne type TP.........rough and tough and don't take no crap off an injun!!!!! LOL The last time I calculated price per filter for my MotorGuard TP bypass, it was about .80 cents a roll/filter!! :thumbsup

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