Fuel Sender fix issue/question

[Florin1]

Hi guys. First post, been lurking for a while. My truck had the fuel gauge issue that reads empty when there's actually still a half tank. Anyway, last night I dropped my tank and pulled the unit out. Here are the issues I noticed. 

First, when I disconnected the lines, I noticed the vacuum nozzle had nothing going to it. Is that normal? Second, there is another nipple that is capped off. 

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flo22/media/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/Flo22/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg"></a>

 

And the third issue is, the screws that hold the metal slide on the pump body, seem to have vibrated their way through the metal. How bad is this? And what will it affect? I added some washers in the pictures, but it didn't slide up and down that freely. 

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flo22/media/Car%20Stuff/91DB421B-7893-4F63-894D-7643F942B850_zps0o3foz0v.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/Flo22/Car%20Stuff/91DB421B-7893-4F63-894D-7643F942B850_zps0o3foz0v.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 91DB421B-7893-4F63-894D-7643F942B850_zps0o3foz0v.jpg"></a>

and

I cannot figure out how to post pictures in here. Sorry. I tried posting directly from my phone, and I got an error message, and I tried uploading via photobucket both IMG and HTML. And still nothing. I'm stumped

Pictures worked on CF

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/2196442-fuel-sender-fix-issues.html#post25501234

Edited January 27, 2017 by Florin1

[dripley]

The little cap is normal and the other part is normal. It is a vent for the fuel tank, nothing connects to it. As far as the metal I am not familiar with that. I have an aftermarket basket given to me by Dodge when they installed the POS in tank pump.

do you have a float on the basket for reading fuel level? That maybe stinking or the sender could be bad.

[Dieselfuture]

Like Dripley said,  plastic valve with a nipple is event nothing goes to it just make sure it's not plugged with dirt and don't force compressed air into it, maybe use a wire and litely blow dirt out. The one with a rubber cap on it is some sort of test port, on my fuel basket I actually drilled it out and ran my half inch return line from lift pump through it. I know what you're talking about on screws wearing through metal, the only thing you could do that like you already did use extra large washers and maybe slightly longer screws. May have to buy longer screws and cut them to size you need. On your fuel gauge, if the sender is attached to basket make sure float rod is not Bent. Also you can use an ohmmeter and check resistance as you raise float up and down, make sure you getting the full range. Other than that welcome.

[Florin1]

Thanks for your reply guys. Yes I have the float on the sender, not pictured. I did that fix where you add a washer to the arm, and bend the contacts a bit. Not sure if I fixed it. I reinstalled the tank and am driving the truck today. I put my multimeter on the sender and checked the resistance. Don't know if I did it right. I think the meter read 40 ohms in full position, and it increased to like 200 by the time it got to empty. Don't know if that's right. I may have screwed it up. I'll see what she reads in a few hundred miles

[dripley]

FWIW I have seen alot of us here with gauges that read very different but uniform. By that I mean mine takes forever to get off of full and then very quick to empty. But it reads that way constantly. Others operate the opposite but uniform. If your's is doing either and constant, it works as long as you get used to it. Your's does seem a bit extreme, but if constant you can adjust to it unless you just want to spend the cash to get it more close to what the gauge says. You might reset your trip meter every time you fill up and see how that works with the gauge. I usually drive by both just in case the gauge decides to go wonky on me.

[Florin1]

I've always watched my gas mileage on all my cars so I have an idea of my range. But this truck is the first I've had where there are multiple misleading things. One, I don't know how many gallons my tank is 30/34. Two, I have 285 tires, so I know my speedo is off by about 6mph at 60. Three, I'm not sure of the range of the truck. It goes from F to E in about 270 miles by the trip meter. So I want it to work. 

[dripley]

51 minutes ago, Florin1 said:

I've always watched my gas mileage on all my cars so I have an idea of my range. But this truck is the first I've had where there are multiple misleading things. One, I don't know how many gallons my tank is 30/34. Two, I have 285 tires, so I know my speedo is off by about 6mph at 60. Three, I'm not sure of the range of the truck. It goes from F to E in about 270 miles by the trip meter. So I want it to work. 

I will try and help a little. The long bed trucks have a 35 gallon tank and the short beds have a 32 as i understand. Positve on the long bed not quite sure on the short bed, Tire size depends on what the truck came with. 265's, as mine has, were the largest they came with stock. so the 285's will reduce your distance. F to E in 270 miles is way out of wack even in my book so I can understand why You want to get it better. Mine from F to E 450 tp 600, just depends on how and where I drive it.