The crf450ish random question thread.

[crf450ish]

Hey guys I can't get the brakes to stiffin up at the pedal. Installed brand new rear calipers and rotors and pads. Haven't touched the front yet, that's next weekend project. But I have followed the correct process to a T. This is the process my dad and I used: 

 

Engine off-

 

1.Starting at the passenger rear, Dad pumped the brakes until they are firm as they could get and I cracked the bleeder valve and closed it when dad said close- pedal 3/4 way to floor. BLEEDER VALVE CLOSED AS THE PEDAL WAS STILL MOVING TOWARDS FLOOR, so as to not allow any air to enter the system.

2. Continued step 1 until all brake fluid was clear and no air coming out and pedal firm.

3. Performed step one on the drivers rear caliper until there was clean fluid and no air and pedal firm. 

4. Moved to passenger front caliper and did the same thing..

5. Moved to drivers front and did the same thing. Pedal was rock hard at this point. 

 

When we started the truck and pumped the brake pedal....it was like stepping on a wet sponge. What am I missing here? Is there a different process for bleeding brakes with ABS? My truck does have the anodized blue cylinder next to the master cylinder...

Edited July 19, 2020 by crf450ish

[crf450ish]

So apparently the method I used is way incorrect when dealing with the ABS system on my truck.

 

The proper way to bleed the brakes on my particular truck is for the helper at the brake pedal to NOT pump the brakes at all, but rather begin to depress the brake pedal and tell the guy at the caliper to open the bleeder valve. Onece the pedal is at the floor, the helper keeps the pedal pressed down while the other guy closes the bleeder, pedal should come back up on its own. Repeat this process starting at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. 

 

The way that I did it inadvertently introduced millions of tiny air bubbles into the ABS system.....Soo next weekend I'm replacing the front brakes and going to try the method above and see where it goes. Worst comes to worst, I gotta take it in and have the ABS computer turned on and have them bleed the brakes. I feel like a bonehead saying that . I've never ever had issues working on brakes. Not even on European vehicles. 

[crf450ish]

@Mopar1973Man I tried the method in your article. Followed it to a T. Same result. I ordered a vacuum bleeder and am waiting for it to show up in the mail. Probably shoulda done your method first.... Never ever had an issue bleeding brakes in my life. 

 

[dave110]

I have a vac bleeder but rarley use it for brakes anymore. Seems the hose is forever falling off when I don't want it too. I'm not sure which article you looked at but I either do the two man method as you described (although I NEVER pump the pedal, only an even push to a 2x4 on the floor board) or the one man method M1973M likes. What made a difference for me was to take the bleeder screw out and put never-sieze on the threads to seal them so you don't draw air in through them. Then one end of the hose on the bleeder and the other end in a jar of your choice. Just make sure that end STAYS submersed in fluid. Now slowly push the pedal down, hold for a second and slowly let it up. I use this method on all my vehicles with great results. The only thing I think would be better is a pressure bleeder from what I read, but I've never bought one. Good luck. 

[crf450ish]

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

I have a vac bleeder but rarley use it for brakes anymore. Seems the hose is forever falling off when I don't want it too. I'm not sure which article you looked at but I either do the two man method as you described (although I NEVER pump the pedal, only an even push to a 2x4 on the floor board) or the one man method M1973M likes. What made a difference for me was to take the bleeder screw out and put never-sieze on the threads to seal them so you don't draw air in through them. Then one end of the hose on the bleeder and the other end in a jar of your choice. Just make sure that end STAYS submersed in fluid. Now slowly push the pedal down, hold for a second and slowly let it up. I use this method on all my vehicles with great results. The only thing I think would be better is a pressure bleeder from what I read, but I've never bought one. Good luck. 

Thanks for the info. 

[Gregturley]

@crf450ish try gravity bleeding. Leave cap off master cylinder and fill up completely. Go right rear, left rear, right front, left front pattern. Open RR bleeder, put drain pan under it and let it drip. Let it empty the MC to about 3/4 empty. Close bleeder, fill MC and repeat in above pattern. After all 4 wheels are done go to RR, open bleeder and have helper slowly press pedal to floor and close bleeder. Repeat in above pattern. This has worked great for difficult to bleed systems for me in the past.

 Also good way to flush out old fluid.

Edited August 8, 2020 by Gregturley
Missing info

[dave110]

When I put all new lines on mine I gravity bled until fluid was running out of all bleeders and then did the one man method since I usually don't have help. Same as GT but no helper. I found that gravity bleeding alone was not enough to get a firm pedal so finished it off with a few pumps.

[Gregturley]

Like @dave110 said, I always do a final bleed by depressing the pedal and opening the bleeder but gravity bleeding will help reduce creating air bubbles by pumping the pedal a lot. I have a helper push and hold the pedal, not pump it. Open bleeder then when it hits the floor, tighten bleeder, let off pedal, repeat as necessary. Usually 2 times per bleeder and its good to go.

Edited August 9, 2020 by Gregturley