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Sport headlights installed


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Mike.....you may have enlightened (no pun) me.  My truck is a Sport and the headlights are constantly trying to yellow.  I've cleaned them and waxed them numerous times but they just wont stop.  Strange too is the side marker light housings are crystal clear. :think:  Maybe they should have made the headlights out of the same plastic.

 

Anyways, I've threatened to replace them someday but OEM lights are $700+.  No thank you.....

And I've read too many threads where people say that the aftermarket lights are cool looking but the beam spread is horrible.  I certainly dont care to replace fantastic OEM lights with aftermarket garbage.  After reading your thread, if I understand correctly, your lighting problem is because your non-Sport light system doesnt turn on all four bulbs at once.  Right?

 

And to make matters worse about aftermarket lights.....I've heard of aftermarket lights leaking too.

 

So in point, I'm leery.....but would like my head lights to look brand new again.  Please keep the forum up to date on how these work for you because $200 would be worth it if they were exactly like OEM. :thumbup2:

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  • Owner

The splitter cord supplied is hi beam on the smaller inner reflector which produces a weird pattern of light that is narrow as well. The lo beam is awesome its on the main reflector and does spread the light great. I'm just half tempted to just pull the splitter cables off for now and just use the main reflector side till I build the relay kit. 

 

Here is the OEM setup and not hard to do. 

 

headlightsQ.jpg

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This trip to Boise I found the 4 female headlight plugs for 4.99 a piece. Then found 40A relays for 6.88 a piece. Now I'm not going to do my design on the all the after market design where they power both bulbs from the relays. I'm going to follow the stock design but add the lo beam. This will be a very simple design. Basically the main bulb will connect normally to the truck but adding the re-pin for the 9004 to 9007 change over. Then the secondary bulb I will pull power from the PDC and use the main headlight as trigger for the relay.

 

So my first step is to make the main bulbs operate with high and low beam which is taking the current splitter cable and making a straight through 9004 to 9007 conversion.

 

More I keep looking at the wiring diagram I wonder if I can just use everything in the PDC? Like the fuse (Fuse E), Relay (Quad High) I know the pin sockets are all there I wonder if I can get the connectors for those sockets? Boy that would make it even more like stock and nothing like "Rik Ram" where there is relays tied to the batteries an extra fuses hanging. :duh:

 

Designing minds... :think:

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It's simple take power from your engine compartment fuse panel supply or add a second then add the relays to the side of the fuse block and follow factory looms...  I can wire a vehicle to be flat towed and even when you take the rear taillights out its hard to tell the modifications I have made.   its tedious doing it right but totally worth it in the end.  My truck appears completely stock besides gauges bhaf and exhaust but can still out run some* 5.0 mustangs.  For example I have more than one kill switch a 1500 watt inverter and several emergency radios along with the stereo amp all getting power directly from battery 12v+ and yes I have a second 10 fuse panel mounted along with relays to my existing box but it still appears stock under hood...

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  • Owner

:cummins:  Absolutely... :iagree:

 

That is what I'm after I want to do things so they appear right and not like a huge hack job. Every single headlight conversion kit I've looked at has the power connected to the battery terminal. Absolutely not an option in my book. Yes I know there is very small gain if you use these kits but no worth the mess for the minor gain you'll get. 

 

Again here is that battery lead... Seen in the photo just a ring terminal...

Image result for sport headlight conversion dodge ram

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Ok. My first step. I doing this from experimental point of view so nothing is finished per say. 

 

The adapter harness I managed to repin as a pass-thru lead now for the main reflector and bulb. I did find out that the supplied splitter cable is pinned wrong on the main bulb on lo beam selected it actually on the hi beam filament on the bulb. So I had to repin again to correct that. You'll find that you have to trade the white and blue on the DAP kit to correct the hi/lo problem. 

 

@WiscoRedkneck now I want to know where you got your connectors for the relay and the fuse rail? I've got the hot side of the fuse rail but the load side is missing. As for the relay socket its missing all contacts in the Quad Hi Beam socket. What I want to do is populate the relay with both the 87 and 87a contacts so both hi/lo will be functional. Being I need the truck tomorrow for another Boise run I'm going to stop right here till WiscoRedneck can provide info for connectors.

 

 

0217171013.jpg

 

I found the fuse clip for the PDC...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12004568-L/?qs=Q2Rsuhc0qGvr8WOrkX1Eew%3D%3D

 

Delphi Connection Systems 12004568-L

 

Having problems finding uninsulated female spade connectors with locking tabs.Rather common connector but tough to find so far.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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  • Owner

 

I've got Mark over at The Harness Shop doing some digging for the terminals and seeing if he can get them. If so it might be a nice clean Sport headlight kit that people might want to buy from "Mopar1973Man.Com Store". Possibly idea... We'll see. 

 

I've also contacted DAP and let them know the supplied splitter cable is pinned wrong on the main bulb.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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I'm sorry it's been a busy day.  

Holt electric supply is a local supply house that I was able to acquire everything from.  

As for the fuse panel I'm a bit confused because I had a second fuse box mounted to my under hood box with relays mounted to that.  That whole unit had a main fuse and a second power feed.

Since the work truck broke down the frame off of the Cummins was rushed back into service so things haven't been fully reinstalled :(.   I'm living in the dark ages with led fog lights to make up for single bulb headlamps, hence why I'm so curious how you like your new fixtures as I will be buying a pair in the next week 

Good news is got a new used work truck so old green goes back in to my shop for the next 7-10k worth of fun

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9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I wonder if I can get the connectors for those sockets? Boy that would make it even more like stock and nothing like "Rik Ram" where there is relays tied to the batteries an extra fuses hanging. :duh:

I put my lift pump relay in the PDC using the O2 front heater relay socket and drew power from the spare fuse socket.  I didn't use the quad light socket for the same reason you have.  I went to an auto salvage yard were I found a 1999 ram gasser.  I cut the wire harness to the PDC and then with a pair of dikes, pocket screwdriver and medium screwdriver I pulled and pried the connectors out of the PDC.  There are two different size connectors for that socket. large size for pins 30 and 87,  smaller one for pins 85 and86. They snapped in to my PDC with no problem.  I also grabbed a couple of the micro relays that fit that socket and used one it for the lift pump.  They provide surge protection with a resistor.  

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4 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I went to an auto salvage yard were I found a 1999 ram gasser.

 

Sorry, no salvage yards around me. 

 

This is why I'm trying to source out the terminals for a clean install with the possible idea of making a kit to actually sell that would give a clean install of the sport headlights. Instead of the hack kits with 4 relays, 4 fuses, etc. Why not 1 relay in the existing socket and 1 fuse in the existing socket in the PDC?

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Hua? The only thing different is the Quad hi beams is relay controlled. Uses the same multifunction switch and the same headlight switch. Basically wired the same way.

 

On 2/17/2017 at 6:38 PM, WiscoRedkneck said:

sport dash module is different from yours as well as the under hood module

As for a module... I don't see where the module you speak of is. No such module exist in either lighting systems.

 

Stock Plain Headlights

headlights.jpg

 

Then Sport Quad Headlights

.Headlights w/Quad wiring map 1999 Dodge Ram

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Like I'm already looking at converting my current fog light setup over to the PDC so I can ditch the fuse hanging off the PDC positive post and ditching a switch on my overhead console. I'll need to change head light switches then add a terminal for the hi beam fog lamps. This way everything is back to stock controls as closely as possible and way less hanging hack wiring in my engine area. 

 

Left most switch is my current fog light switch.

https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/212-overhead-console-switches/

 

So looking at the fog lamp relay you'll see the normally open contact is void. So if I add the terminal that would power my pair of fog light on the hi beam setting. Then ditch the fuse on the PDC positive and install it at Fuse O in the PDC. So then the headlight switch would have control of the fog lights once again like it was stock but with the add function of hi/lo selectable for lights.

 

So now looking at the Quad High Beam relay you'll see the normally close contact is void of a lead so if I add the lo beam back to the Quad Bulbs now you'll have quad hi and lo beam on both bulbs using only 1 fuse and 1 relay compared to 4 relays and 4 fuses like all the other kits do. 

 

Headlights w/Quad wiring map 1999 Dodge Ram

 

The only reason the voltage is lower on the stock headlight is you have to understand Dodge's weird idea of wire gauge size and running the headlight ground all the way into the cab to the multi-function switch then to the headlight switch to terminate the ground lead at the driver side kick panel. So majority of vehicles I know of have rusted out ground connections at the driver side kick panels and then to make matter worse the headlight switch and multifunction switch contacts age and not a perfect 0 volt drop any longer. Then toss on top the small wire used to power the headlight plus the long run into the cab. So there is some voltage drop this why the kits are created. Again instead of solving the problem people toss another hack on to band-aid the issue. Like on my truck all my ground and wiring connection are in solid condition so my amount of voltage drop is nothing like what other trucks might be.

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When I get home I will review the Mopar master book for my truck but those wiring diagrams seam slightly incorrect.

Your wiring has a bulk head connector at the firewall correct?  If so that is where the dash module meets the engine module.  Some manufacturers made one size fits all modules and dead headed stuff not in use.  Dodge is a toss up if your engine module had been dead headed all the wires would be there already and you would throw plugs on then a terminal in the fuse block with relays and you're done....  but I am yet to see that be the case on these trucks so I am eager to see if you have success.

 

Perfect example I frame offed the 99 it was an slt Laramie the doner I picked up was an 01 1500 2wd sport.  None of the wiring was interchangeable all of my cab and door harness wiring had to be swapped trust me I found out the hard way swapped dash left door wiring, well guess what no windows door locks or speakers.  It took two techs and myself a whole week trying to figure what was wrong then find out which harness section came from what truck and then put it back together.

Edited by WiscoRedkneck
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Well I've done some work in regards to this. I can manage to do this in two relays. The problem is the factory OEM layout uses the open pin to shut down the lights so if you wire the other filament to that open pin then you end up with that filament on all the time. So there needs to be a power relay before the switching relay. I've got contacts for the large relay socket (labelled spare). I'm going to need contact for the Quad Head socket which are 1/4" terminals. I'm still going to build it to fit in the PDC and use the PDC fuses. Still will be cleaner than all the other headlight kits. 

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