Dropping the 47re (a618)

[JOHNFAK]

Hey guysYeah thx.I am going to go out today and cleanup the tranny and fiddle with the TC to make sure its seated ok. I got a quote to tow it to someone and have the tranny reinstalled and it wasn't that bad given we already have it out.Thinking of heading this route - as I really don't want to damage the TC or seals - or even worse damage the threads on the housing as we put her back in. Main reason is running out of time - took day off Friday to do it and can only work with mate from 5pm to 8pm in evenings now -- so can't take anymore time off. Will keep ya posted ........ it was interesting enough just taking it off. Really wasn't too bad apart from that one 1 bolt. Took some time though.Serious props to he guys that do this themsleves. WOW That Tranny with the TC and transfer case is 1 heavy son-of-a-gun

[Wild and Free]

There is nothing to screw up while installing the converter as it is kind of self centering once it is on the shaft. Did you remove the tranny and t-case as 1 unit? If so there are only 6 nuts to remove to seperate them, I highly suggest it before trying the install and it will go a lot easier and be easier to line up.

[JOHNFAK]

There is nothing to screw up while installing the converter as it is kind of self centering once it is on the shaft. Did you remove the tranny and t-case as 1 unit? If so there are only 6 nuts to remove to seperate them, I highly suggest it before trying the install and it will go a lot easier and be easier to line up.

We took all off as 1 unit. Was thinking of taking off the transer case to make it lighter. Mike mentioned need to replace the seal/gaskett between if we do this - can you pick that up from any autoparts store ? The balancing act with the transfer case did seem to be the hardest part - so much weight. thx guys

[Wild and Free]

the gasket should be easy to find.

[JOHNFAK]

okGot the transfer case offI have tried reseating the the TC and I think its all the way in.even took the new one off and reseated the old one - the old one does fall below the bell housing line - but then the bolts welded on stick out 2". I think this design is just different - as the threads where the bolts will start are about the same distance (new versus old). I am now doing the VB. The instructions say remove the clip from th park rod - prior to removing the 10 bolts that hold the VB in ??? I am not usre if I can even see the park rod with the VB in - unless its the wrong thing.Any1 got a pic ?? I was planning on pulling the VB slightly and see if the park rod starts to come with it and then it may be more obvious ? thanks Once I get this done - my mate will be back - and we can retry tranny with no transfer case - should be easier. thanks guys

[JOHNFAK]

okthe part that I am struggling with is basically the metal shaft piece in top left corner of VB pick. I think this is the shift rod/linkage. I can't get this out - as there are clips and metal shifters on the outside - so can't pull it through. And I don't see how these would come off or if they are meant to - assume so .... as else I don't know how you pull it through to replace

[JOHNFAK]

never mind ...... got it

What a weird piece

Just ply's off with a screwdriver pretty easy ......... lmao

ok .... will update with next 'help' soon

thx

---------- Post added at 03:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------

Biggest thing I see and have happen myself is to be careful when installing the VB as the gear selector shaft can roll the seal lip up or push it out so with the tranny on the ground it will be easier to watch and guide it into place preventing seal damage versus underneath and fighting it.

Cool - VB in - did you mean as you push rod back into the case it can disrupt a seal ??

It seemed to go ok - so thinking all alright. Bumped something 1str attempt - but not hard - then just guided it down.

onto next part - get the tranny up ... minus transfer case

---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------

well - 2/3rdsd of the way there.

We got the tranny back up in like 10 minutes without the transfer case. What a difference !!! Put it back on the tranny jack and tightened her down - so much easier to move and position - went straight on.

Then spent about 3 hours @##$ around with the TC bolts. Got 3 on fine - then the other 3 just seemed to be off by like 1mm. So we loosened back down the 3, and kept rotating the flexplate - and eventually we got all 6 on nice and snug with some locktite.

Benchpressed the transfer case up - that was hard but quick ........................... then tightened her all down.

So tomorrow ....... get cross member and drivelines in, get all vaccum, sensor plugs back in, coolant lines with new temp probe, atf fluid, check everything over 1 more time and then start her up and get the gears changing and fluids added/topped off.

ZZZZzzzzzzzzz

[Mopar1973Man]

Good to hear its going smoothly so far...

[Wild and Free]

And you thought it was going 2B complicated and hard.

[JOHNFAK]

Good to hear its going smoothly so far...

And you thought it was going 2B complicated and hard.

hahaha - yeah ISX already laughed at me saying his is already back up Man - even though we struggled - its been fun - not sure I would want to do too many of these though. I just hope I have 4 gears at the end.

[ISX]

Well I had to give you a hard time somewhere along this transmission expedition lol. I actually haven't driven mine in 2 weeks now. But I don't think I coulda done what you did any faster, probably twice as long knowing me. I mean it took me 12 hours just to put mine back in, and all I have is 3 things on the trans to hook up, a crossmember and driveshaft If I had some big tires for the creeper, I could probably have ran over all the tools a little smoother.

[Wild and Free]

I just hope I have 4 gears at the end.

P,R,N and 1 forward good enough for ya?

[JOHNFAK]

P,R,N and 1 forward good enough for ya?

ha ha - ok ok - well actually - hell - that will get me to idaho/dakota ..... lmao ..... sure:tease:

---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ----------

hey

95% done

Having small problem working out the linkage for the gear shift.

Can someone post a photo or link ??

Would it be in the FSM ? Its not in chiltons.

thanks

[ISX]

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/21-24-94.htm That help any? I'll keep digging. Only other thing I can find is the second pic in post #4, still not very good but not sure what exactly you need help with. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/254445-tv-cable.html

[JOHNFAK]

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/21-24-94.htm

That help any? I'll keep digging.

Only other thing I can find is the second pic in post #4, still not very good but not sure what exactly you need help with. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/254445-tv-cable.html

Should have been more descriptive. Need a GOOD photoshowing the spring mechanism right by the tranny cooler lines on drivers side tranny.

Think it connects the TV and shift linkage - want to make sure we put back togetehr right. Couldn't find it in FSM either.

thanks

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 PM ----------

ACTUALLY - that photo is it .... awesome - right on !!

Going out to hook that part up .....

Any pics of the actual shift linkage near the frame ..... where it does a 90 degree turn to come down to the tranny ...... it bolts to the fenderwell (3 bolts) .......

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

I think we got this.

Had to loosen one and tighten the other - then the shifts seem ok going through gears

update soon

thanks isx

[ISX]

Thats the only pics I could find with 10 min of searching. Someone on here with the 47RE would have to take a pic to get anything better. Maybe you got it figured out by now

[JOHNFAK]

Hey - no thanks that pic worked a treat. Goth everything in and all we had left over at the end was 1 washer

Next problem - the truck won't start. I mean nothing - won't even kick over.

Cycled key - and got a p1693 and check engine light.

But nothing more.

Checked sensors - they looked ok ............ any thoughts on how to proceed ? Checked fuses. Don't have a scanner avialable easily.

Did disconnect and recoonect batteries (10 mins ) - no diff.

*blah*

---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

Thinking its one of the 3 sensors

Don't think the vacuum actuator thing on top of tranny with 4 vacuum lines could do it

Fuses are fine.

Neutral Safety sensor ? --- how would you test if this is 'faulty'

thx

---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 PM ----------

hey

ok - someone on CF mentioned Neutral Safety sensor

Now I think about it - I remember when the VB went in - there seemed to be an extra 1mm where this mechanism was (it looks like a little ball point metal ball that would act as a electrical conductor when in right position) - so I am guessing its still out that much and therefore not registering the correct signal etc.

Whats the best way to fix that - Do i need to send the VB back ?? OR can I somehow solder/increase the depth of the eletrical connector on the sensor in order for it to make contact ??

---------- Post added 05-24-2010 at 07:08 AM ---------- Previous post was 05-23-2010 at 10:38 PM ----------

sorry

just adding them as I think of them or see something.

Should the truck start in 'N' with the brake pressed in. Read something about this bypases this mechanism - is this true for this truck ?

Can we 'jump' the wiring harness with a paperclip or something to 'test' this safety feature as a one off thing to see if that is the cause ?

thanks

[Mopar1973Man]

There has to be some sort of adjustment there for the contact...

[JOHNFAK]

There has to be some sort of adjustment there for the contact...

Can we jump the wiring harness with a paperclip to test this is the cause - do you know ? eg Leave in 'P' - have the harness bridged with paperclip to close circuit, and try starting ?

[Mopar1973Man]

That a valid way of testing as long as you know which pins you got to bridge... I can't seem to find that connector...