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'02 2500 turns over but won't start

TommyGSr
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TommyGSr

TommyGSr

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I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 w/ approx 135000 mi. the injection pump was replaced by a dealer when the truck had 98000 mi. The truck sat idle for about three weeks and when I went to start it the batts were very weak,  turned over twice and went dead. I charged the batts, cleaned the terminals, but the engine would just spin. The lift pump is working, and there is fuel in the tank. I also changed the fuel filter and drained the water separator. Still, no start! Help!!!

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dripley

dripley

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Good chance you need to reprime the fuel system. That would be the first thing I would try. Could have lost prime sitting there and opening and draining the fuel canister and changing the fuel filterwould contribute to it also.

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dripley

dripley

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Loosen the inlet to the VP and then bump the starter, no engine start. The lift pump should run for 25 seconds or so. When fuel comes out tighten the inlet back up. Then crack open 1, 3, and 4. I really loosen the nuts, keeps fuel from spraying every where. As you start to see a good stream of fuel from one of them while cranking, tighten it down. Same on the others as they could good fuel flow to them If re prime was the problem it should be trying fire and will fire as the air gets out of the lines. It may run rough but should smooth out as the other cylinders start getting good fuel. 

 How's your fuel pressure? Do you have a FP gauge?

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KATOOM

KATOOM

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Understand that every time you loosen or remove any fuel system fitting or part of, you remove any existing prime and introduce air.  Unknowing of this can cause you to chase your tail.  Assure fuel to the VP and then follow what dripley said.  If there's a good amount of fuel exiting the loose injector line nuts at the head then it should start.

Lastly, weak or bad batteries will cause a slow cranking engine which will not start or not start easily.  Dont run weak or bad batteries...

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KATOOM

KATOOM

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1 hour ago, TommyGSr said:

OK, guys, I cracked the fuel lines at the head, no fuel!! I have good pressure to the pump, but nothing out!! What turns the fuel on and off in the pump???

 

Fuel to the VP but nothing coming out is either a bad fuel relay, bad connection at the VP, or the VP has quit.  If you had electrical problems with the batteries then I'd confirm everything is working correctly before buying a new VP.

That said, if you do have to replace it, you might want to reconsider the dealer doing it because the VP's they get may or may not be of the upgraded versions.  If you have a friend who's mechanically able, you could use their help.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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1 hour ago, KATOOM said:

you might want to reconsider the dealer doing it because the VP's they get may or may not be of the upgraded versions. 

 

There is only a handful of certified rebuilders out there that have the test stand for programming PSG on the VP44. Just because its a dealer you have no idea who supplied them. I know for sure Diesel Auto Power supplies both Midwest Injection and Industrial Injection both are certified rebuilders. Then Vulcan Performance is Industrial Injection as well. Now you know that your buying for a pump and has been properly rebuilt, pump bench tested for 3 hours and PSG flashed with the calibration. 

 

There are rebuilders out there that sell rebuilt VP44 with USED PSG units and never been bench tested. Typically they are cheaper in price. Not a good thing!

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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TommyGSr

TommyGSr

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Thanks for the replys to my posts! When I get home from work I'll start working on it again! I know the lift pump is working as it should, I crack lines and fuel sprays everywhere! The VP was replaced several years ago by a dealer when the truck had 98,000 miles on it. It now has 136000. It has shown two sets of engine codes, one being the P 1698 you mentioned above.there were several others that I can't recall not having them in front of me.

Just a thought, could I have a bad ground somewhere? I had a lot of corrosion on my cables when I started this!!

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TommyGSr

TommyGSr

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Wow! I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I do see a common cause with all these coded issues, and that is open ground!!!

I've checked the relays by replacing them with the horn relay that I could verify works.

When the problem started, there was a great amount of corrosion on the batt terminals. Also, one batt was completely dead and wouldn't take a charge. I've replaced the dead batt, cleaned the terminals, and put a slow charge on the batts.

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