Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
MIGRATION

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

Turbo Cap - Boost leak tester...

Mopar1973Man
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted

Well gang... I'm back at it again... Had to build another tool for the Cummins. I built a simple cap for the mouth of the turbo out of a small piece of 4" ABS sewer line, 4" ABS cap, air hose fitting (male), and the rubber sewer boot... Here is a short vid I shot of it...

I got a new hose on it... And relize there was still a small air leak remember the bleed hole in the boost elbow... :banghead::lmao2:
  • Like 1
  • Replies 18
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

ISX

ISX

Posted
Posted

I wonder if it would be cheaper to just get a male coupling for the air line and screw it into a hose barb end and unplug the hose from turbo wastegate and hook it in. Then make a cheap turbo cap. I've never seen my idea carried out though :lol: Looks like you have a nice setup going. How do you make it anyways? I meant taking this hose off and using a setup like the connector I am holding. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1368.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1372.JPG

  • Like 1
white01

white01

Posted
Posted

Well gang... I'm back at it again... Had to build another tool for the Cummins. I built a simple cap for the mouth of the turbo out of a small piece of 4" ABS sewer line, 4" ABS cap, air hose fitting (male), and the rubber sewer boot... Here is a short vid I shot of it...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvN1tMVW-rU

I got a new hose on it... And relize there was still a small air leak remember the bleed hole in the boost elbow... :banghead::lmao2:
sorry about the leak.:banghead:
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Author
  • Owner
Posted

I wonder if it would be cheaper to just get a male coupling for the air line and screw it into a hose barb end and unplug the hose from turbo wastegate and hook it in. Then make a cheap turbo cap.

I've never seen my idea carried out though :lol: Looks like you have a nice setup going. How do you make it anyways?

I meant taking this hose off and using a setup like the connector I am holding.

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1368.JPG

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1372.JPG

Well I'd love to do a setup like your but got a problem there isn't any other hoses on a 24V the only one would be the the waste gate hose...

So as to build a cap you need a short piece of 4" ABS sewer tube about 2" long, ABS 4" cap, and a rubber sewer boot with clamps... Glue the cap to the pipe. Drill a hole for your fitting since it plastic it self tapping. Then just clamp on the turbo mouth. Then air it up using a regulated air source!

Words of warning the boot can hold 20-25 PSI of pressure but you find the cap trying to work its way out of the clamp so I suggest to keep the pressure down to 5-10 PSI and use soap water mixture and look for bubbles.

Now looking at you pic thought ISX there is a 3/4" pipe plug in the side of the head where my boost gauge hooks up I wonder if there is a way to cover the mouth of the turbo solid enough to pump it up to say 30-35 PSI...:shrug:

ISX

ISX

Posted
Posted

Forgot about the boost gauge port. I am actually going to lowes right now and I will search high and low and see if there is anything that would plug that turbo off good enough. I like your setup but I have also seen people get to 10psi, then it all goes south. So it takes some pressure to get certain things to show themselves. I'll see what I can find and take pics with my phone and then we can see how feasible it is.

  • Like 1
ISX

ISX

Posted
Posted

Not a damn thing at Lowes, other than the boot you got. I think we just need some big constant tension hose clamps like on the boots, that you can get really tight. :shrug:

guinnessbrewer

guinnessbrewer

Posted
Posted

:lmao2:And to think you paid money for that boost leak...ha...Good find Mike! :thumbup2:

Well gang... I'm back at it again... Had to build another tool for the Cummins. I built a simple cap for the mouth of the turbo out of a small piece of 4" ABS sewer line, 4" ABS cap, air hose fitting (male), and the rubber sewer boot... Here is a short vid I shot of it...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvN1tMVW-rU

I got a new hose on it... And relize there was still a small air leak remember the bleed hole in the boost elbow... :banghead::lmao2:
  • 1 month later...
Howie67

Howie67

Posted
Posted

is there a plug on the intake side? Can you pressurize the whole system all the way to the eng without the pressure leaking through the valves? Just wondering if it is necessary to plug at the intake boot to isolate the plumbing and intercooler to bump pressure up enough to test wastegate?

guesswho512

guesswho512

Posted
Posted

you can pressurize it to a point. the clamp i am using is a regular screw type hose clamp. it starts to try to slide off at~4-5 psi, but i did (very briefly) get up to 15psi, before backing it down. a clamp like what is on the intercooler boots is what is really needed. the fenders are rubbing both of my intercooler boots. right now its only on the raised edge of the inlet/outlet, and isn't leaking from what i can tell. the first time i did it. i swore i heard air going out the exhaust. either the wastegate isn't closing completely or valve overlap

--- Update to the previous post...

to test the wastegate, i took the rubber hose off the 90* and stuck a blow gun to it. set the regulator and test away.

Howie67

Howie67

Posted
Posted

Ok got the 4" pipe and cap and boot but it seem way too big.?? :shrug: Before i drive back to the store, am i supposed to just clamp up all that extra space?

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Author
  • Owner
Posted

Ok got the 4" pipe and cap and boot but it seem way too big.?? :shrug: Before i drive back to the store, am i supposed to just clamp up all that extra space?

Yeap... The boot is going to be big but the clamp will pull down on it... I think the 3" boot is too small... Yes you could cap the turbo and pressurize the system through that plug and test in the same fashion.
guesswho512

guesswho512

Posted
Posted

mine is just a rubber cap with an air fitting in the center. i found some random coupler that screwed on and used 2 washers to clamp the rubber. i drilled a 3/16 hole and stretched the rubber over the air fitting.

Howie67

Howie67

Posted
Posted

Ok I used a old bicycle inner tube and gave it a few wraps like some really big teflon tape. It did the trick. I can say if there are any leaks besides the boost elbow they are too small to hear. Thanks for the info guys.

  • 2 years later...
moostang

moostang

Posted
Posted

I found a rain gutter to drain pipe connecter at lowes and the ID is 4" then used a 3" PVC cap which is real close to 4" OD which is the same as the turbo

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
paul99

paul99

Posted
Posted

just did a boost leak test and had a bunch of leaks when you get it up to 30 LBS every thing leaks .the two terminal to the air intake heater started leaking @ 25 LBSi used a 4" gem cap and set the clamp about a 1/16" on to the back side of the barb on the turbo when you tighten it down it forces it back and gets it in really tight .used a 1/8" pipe tee and a schrader valve with a gauge fast and simple i have a crappy video but it is to large to upload sorry about bad pics its dark out side and lights cast shadowspost-12593-138698199319_thumb.jpg

post-12593-138698199298_thumb.jpg

post-12593-138698199309_thumb.jpg

 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Current Donation Goals

    • Mopar1973Man Tip Jar
      Raised $20
×
×
  • Create New...