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KDP check at 155k miles


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I've had this truck for just under a year and done a lot of repairs that the previous owner just didn't bother to do, as in both front brakes siezed so 1 new caliper as I'd got it in the garage, 1 new piston,  seal kit and a slider kit, back brakes checked and freed off, ctm changed due to door locks not working, window runners fixed, Cat fuel filter complete fitted as previous plank decided it didn't need a filter and threw the whole lot away, luckily he only did about 100 miles in it afterwards, it had about 9 months MOT on it and our MOTs are strict usually so I'm guessing a mate did it.

 

Anyway truck runs nice now, still more to do but I'd been thinking and reading and decided to check the timing cover dowel pin due to a little oil around the area and not wanting a grenade under the front, so holiday today and tomorrow,   3 hours in I'm looking at the pin which is all nice and tight in the case, the bolt next to it is not so happy and while not hanging out it was not tight by any means, so out it comes and the locktite has failed due to engine oil, I remembered I had a Lokar throttle cable return spring bracket off of a 440 somewhere so dug it out and minimal trimming and theres the retainer for the pin, all cleaned, locktite and torqued, new seal set in the cover to the right depth with sealant  and the wear sleeve sat on top of our boiler doing a bit of expanding, hoping to slip it on tomorrow but if not will press it on using the pulley...  seal from the USA $35 inc sleeve, landed here £70, UK customs are just great aren't they !

Next job in order... fuel lines then earths, then quad, then trans

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Come to it this morning, theory didn't work as expected on the wear sleeve but at least it went on a bit before it's temp dropped, damper bolts were too short to use the pulley straight away so made a plate out of 3/16th steel to pull it on up to the spigot then used the pulley, I've fitted a lot of Cummins crank wear sleeves on NTA 855s and despite cummins saying NOT to heat we just used to use a torch and indirect heat then slip em straight on using leather gloves as they were a lot bigger the start on the crank could get out of shape very quick, this on the other hand started easily with just heat off of the top of our boiler and pulled on easily.

Now to put it all back together, the hole in the tab is where the throttle return spring on the 440 would have gone :)

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Edited by wil440
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Mine is a 98.5 and the cover isn't updated as I can see the whole circumference of the dowel coming through the case by about 10 thou.

Now i've looked at the picture again it almost looks like there is a part of the case broke to the lower right of the bolt, has to be a trick of the light or camera as I've had my fingers around that while testing the shape of the tab and also fitting it and the bolt..... ahhh I know what that is.... I used brake cleaner to clean the area off so the case is there it's just black  PHEW !!

 

Here's a picture of the best way to hold a crank pulley when either undoing or torquing up bolts, yes it looks brutal but it's not and never damages the damper, when I worked for Finning the Cat dealer here in UK I got sent to a customer at a power station who was doing a front oil seal on a D10 dozer, they had got to the point of not being able to remove the damper bolts as the crank was turning, I got sent to take the starter off .... yeah right, 1/2  hr later damper on the floor

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